How to service your car

kleefarr

When changing a clutch is the flywheel usually changed at the same time?
Peugeot 307 SW 04 had a clutch change in July and now has vibration issues, they say it' the flywheel and it needs replacing.
I saw kits where a new flywheel was included with the clutch kit.

shietpilot

kleefarr wrote: »

When changing a clutch is the flywheel usually changed at the same time?
Peugeot 307 SW 04 had a clutch change in July and now has vibration issues, they say it' the flywheel and it needs replacing.
I saw kits where a new flywheel was included with the clutch kit.

It's not necessary but if it's a diesel with a dual mass flywheel, a good mechanic would recommend it to be changed together with the clutch since the labour is almost the same and it would only cost you extra for the part itself.

fancy pigeon

shietpilot wrote: »

It's not necessary but if it's a diesel with a dual mass flywheel, a good mechanic would recommend it to be changed together with the clutch since the labour is almost the same and it would only cost you extra for the part itself.

Considering if it is a 2.0HDi 110 clutch looks like below, a flywheel is it's only damper and thus will need replacing if juddering

A 90HDi takes a conventional clutch and solid wheel



I await some nit picking pc tit to pic flaws with my post

kleefarr

fancy pigeon wrote: »

Considering if it is a 2.0HDi 110 clutch looks like below, a flywheel is it's only damper and thus will need replacing if juddering

A 90HDi takes a conventional clutch and solid wheel



I await some nit picking pc tit to pic flaws with my post

1.6l Petrol

Hal1

Sure get it machined and save some weight yo! Wouldn't that give more power to the wheels?

kleefarr

kleefarr wrote: »

1.6l Petrol

Apparently thrust bearing gone.
More expense.

Hal1

So the cowboy who changed the clutch in July never replaced the release bearing. Unless he made a complete haims of the job, I can't see how it would fail within the last 3 months.

shietpilot

Hal1 wrote: »

So the cowboy who changed the clutch in July never replaced the release bearing. Unless he made a complete haims of the job, I can't see how it would fail within the last 3 months.

That's ridiculous like! I reckon some mechanics are similar to tyre shops. Customers look for the cheapest garage and the mechanics end up skipping vital parts of the job in order to provide the most attractive quote! Preventative maintenance and all that...

kleefarr

Hal1 wrote: »

So the cowboy who changed the clutch in July never replaced the release bearing. Unless he made a complete haims of the job, I can't see how it would fail within the last 3 months.

Looks like it. Not going to use him again even though clutch was cheap enough €650 plus an extra €100 for new thruster bearing.

dunneg

Great post. Very informative.

I might give it a go myself. As they say, God loves a trier!

clonagam

Volvoboy wrote: »

Donned the jump suit today and set about giving a the 'auld girl a service, in liew of the recent thread ''Can you change oil in your car'' thought i'd take a few pics of what to do.

You will need:

• Oil
• Draining bucket (or cut out a side of a old oil bottle)
• 1/2 inch drive socket set (selection of sockets from 10mm to 21mm)
• Funnel (or 7up bottle)
• Airfilter
• Oilfilter
• Jack (in every car)
• Spark plugs
• Rags

The Service Kit
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg179/volvoboy744/DSC00342.jpg
Run the car for 5 mins as hot oil drains out of the car much quicker than cold Oil. Turn off the engine after, if you run the car without any engine oil it will seize and you'll need a new engine!

Jack the car up, locate the sump and oil filter, undo the sump nut so you can take it off by hand be carefull not to drop the sump plug into the hot oil
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While the oil is draining, undo the oil filter, you can use many ways to get the oil filter off straps, or by hammering a screwdriver though the filter, because my last oil change was 5790miles ago i can get it off with my hand.

When all of the oil is gone from the engine tighten the sump plug back up and check that the new oil filter is the same as the old one what you're looking for is if they are a diffrent size.

Before ya put the new oilfilter in place smear a small bit of oil around the rubber gasket on the filter, this assures no leaks. And its advisable to clean up excess oil from around the engine.

Drop the car from the jack (very important you do this if you were to change the oil on a uneven surface it could give you a misreading when you check the oil).

If you havent got a funnel take a 7up bottle and a angle grinder and make a home made one!!!

Slowly pour the new oil into the engine occasionally check to make sure that you dont over fill the engine. When you are finished tighten up the filler cap back in place and start the engine (DONT REV THE ENGINE)

And thats it for the oil change, keep the remaining oil in the container and in the boot of your car.

I note that you did not mention changing the sump plug washer as often recommended in the manuals. I am ambivalent about doing this myself. I have renewed it (but rarely) and I haven't suffered any leaks when I didn't.

Ded_Zebra

clonagam wrote: »

I note that you did not mention changing the sump plug washer as often recommended in the manuals. I am ambivalent about doing this myself. I have renewed it (but rarely) and I haven't suffered any leaks when I didn't.

Never replaced one in my life. Never had a leak. Never plan on replacing one

Atlantic Dawn

Ded_Zebra wrote: »

Never replaced one in my life. Never had a leak. Never plan on replacing one

I always replace mine but looking at what comes off looking basically like brand new it's possibly overkill every single service but at sub €2 a go I don't risk it

..Brian..

I didn't the last time I did an oil change and subsequently ended up with about 20 palm sized oil stains dotted around my yard! For the sake of a few quid I think it's worth it.

clonagam

..Brian.. wrote: »

I didn't the last time I did an oil change and subsequently ended up with about 20 palm sized oil stains dotted around my yard! For the sake of a few quid I think it's worth it.

For the record, where do you buy the replacement washers?. I bought some in Halfords but they didn't fit. Do you go to the main dealers and ask just for a sump washer?

The problem is that you need to have the washer in advance of the job. Otherwise, you have to bring the sump bolt along, delaying the whole job.

shietpilot

clonagam wrote: »

For the record, where do you buy the replacement washers?. I bought some in Halfords but they didn't fit. Do you go to the main dealers and ask just for a sump washer?

The problem is that you need to have the washer in advance of the job. Otherwise, you have to bring the sump bolt along, delaying the whole job.

MicksGarage, motor factors or dealer will have them handy. Different cars have different washers, some aluminium some rubber.

fancy pigeon

2 options:

• Use old washer with PTFE on the plug
• Use a dowty washer

Never leak again

FortySeven

Popping a screwdriver through the oil filter to aid removal can be problematic. A friend of mine tried this on a Lexus and turned up at my house in need of bigger tools.

Que 5 hours of trying to remove a mangled, sharp edged mess that was firmly stuck and now covered in oil to boot. Access was poor and it turned into a real clusterf#ck.

The right tool is inexpensive and can save much work.

shietpilot

fancy pigeon wrote: »

2 options:

• Use old washer with PTFE on the plug
• Use a dowty washer

Never leak again

No! I removed a 15 cm length of teflon tape from a sump before after unscrewing the sump plug. You don't want that

fancy pigeon

shietpilot wrote: »

No! I removed a 15 cm length of teflon tape from a sump before after unscrewing the sump plug. You don't want that

Yes! You had some arsehole who put on too much/put it on the wrong way/not a clue how to use PTFE/all the aforemantioned...

How do I manage where others don't/can't?!

The way to look at it is, if one cannot use the tools/equipment correctly then don't follow my advice... Simple!

I'll keep my trade secrets to myself

shietpilot

fancy pigeon wrote: »

Yes! You had some arsehole who put on too much/put it on the wrong way/not a clue how to use PTFE/all the aforemantioned...

How do I manage where others don't/can't?!

The way to look at it is, if one cannot use the tools/equipment correctly then don't follow my advice... Simple!

I'll keep my trade secrets to myself

That's true in fairness. A tool is only as good as the user

padger

I'm going to sell my 2004 Leon but am going to do the brake pads first, I looked online at prices for the pads and they go from around €18 upwards and seem to vary alot..which ones should I get? I don't want to spend much really,looked at apec brands and brakefit

biko

I'd go with Mintex or Delphi
Get a known brand, no need to be cheap on things like this for the sake of a few euros.

Autochange

padger wrote: »

I'm going to sell my 2004 Leon but am going to do the brake pads first, I looked online at prices for the pads and they go from around €18 upwards and seem to vary alot..which ones should I get? I don't want to spend much really,looked at apec brands and brakefit

repairs of vehicles should be regulated imo. Suppose you replace the pads on your car, sell it and the repair fails because something isn't fitted or tightened correctly. Suppose the new owner crashes and hurts or kills somenone. You my friend will find yourself in court and most likely prison

Atlantic Dawn

Autochange wrote: »

repairs of vehicles should be regulated imo. Suppose you replace the pads on your car, sell it and the repair fails because something isn't fitted or tightened correctly. Suppose the new owner crashes and hurts or kills somenone. You my friend will find yourself in court and most likely prison

Can you point to a single documented case in Ireland where someone incorrectly fitted brake pads and it caused injury or death to someone?

colm_mcm

If you're selling, throw any old shiite from micksgarage on it. You won't see the extra money back in the sale price,

shietpilot

All brake pads on sale on MicksGarage will comply with the ECE R90 standard which means they are tested and compared to OEM pads and are of similar standard so I don't see any problem in using the cheapest pads. Obviously the cheaper pads may cause more brake dust or screech but they will do the job just fine.

btmp75

My apologies first if this is a wrong thread to post this. I tried / started another thread with this. but no use. Thats why Posting this here.

98 Toyota Hiace door lock problem

I have an old Hiace -98. Now both the Passenger side and Driver side door locks not working. Actually Can't lock with key and passenger side door can't lock from inside too. Tried to remove the lock. But couldn't. Any help to show how to remove lock barrel from the doors step by step will be greatly appreciated. Unfortunately couldn't find any videos in YouTube. Here some who knows things have a chance to make a popular video.

biko

Hi btmp75, you already have a thread in the forum for this query. Please don't post more than once. If someone can help they will respond in the dedicated thread.
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057731325

btmp75

biko wrote: »

Hi btmp75, you already have a thread in the forum for this query. Please don't post more than once. If someone can help they will respond in the dedicated thread.
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2057731325

Yes. I already have a thread. But no response.That's why I posted it here. I already stated it here and apologised for doing that. Didn't want to post again.

jimmycrackcorm

biko wrote:

I'd go with Mintex or Delphi Get a known brand, no need to be cheap on things like this for the sake of a few euros.

Out of interest, are pads difficult to replace? I've done oil, filters, plugs, but am wary of pads because of the safety aspect.

punisher5112

jimmycrackcorm wrote: »

Out of interest, are pads difficult to replace? I've done oil, filters, plugs, but am wary of pads because of the safety aspect.

No not difficult at all once correct tools and always remember method of removing and in reverse putting back ensure locking pin is correctly placed back.

Get some copper grease for rear of pads and steel wool or brush to clean out the build up in calliper. Not essential but will help.

DANNY2014

Anyone on here reckon this is a good deal for anyone who is gonna start servicing there own vehicles...

https://www.micksgarage.com/d/car-jacks-ramps-and-axle-stands/products/3151909/diy-mechanic-car-lift-kit-inc-jack-axle-stands-and-wheel-chocks

padger

Looks good..i got axle stands in Lidl a while back and they did the job

DANNY2014

It's a decent enough price as far as I can make out... Just handy to get the whole set as one... that's my thinking anyways...

breadbin

Looks like a great price but only if it fits your car. Is the 1.5 tonne strong enough? It should be but maybe not.

And I got one and had to return it for a 'low profile' version. Even the low profile one rubs off the front skirt and the car isn't even lowered. It's a stock corolla t-sport! Just something to be mindful about.

CJhaughey

This one isn't much more and has a creeper and a wheel wrench.
http://www.halfords.ie/workshop-tools/garage-workshop/trolley-jacks/halfords-5-piece-lifting-kit

DANNY2014

WEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS
Unladen Weight2667.6 lbs OR 1210 kgGross Weight Limit3957.3 lbs OR 1795 kg

Should be sound enough with that kit from micksgarage...

CJhaughey

DANNY2014 wrote: »

WEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS
Unladen Weight2667.6 lbs OR 1210 kgGross Weight Limit3957.3 lbs OR 1795 kg

Should be sound enough with that kit from micksgarage...

I am sure it will do, what are you going to lie on under the car?:D
I have used carpet, cardboard and old foam mats but I would strongly advise a creeper if you can stretch to it, its a lot handier on the body.

DANNY2014

CJhaughey wrote: »

I am sure it will do, what are you going to lie on under the car?:D
I have used carpet, cardboard and old foam mats but I would strongly advise a creeper if you can stretch to it, its a lot handier on the body.

Have a part off an old workout bench... Mite jus put a few wheels on it and should do the trick...

tacklemore

First service today with my new car creeper. Highly recommend to everyone. Was always a cardboard man, but will never go back.

punisher5112

tacklemore wrote: »

First service today with my new car creeper. Highly recommend to everyone. Was always a cardboard man, but will never go back.

Woosh........

lawred2

It's a pity that the opening post has lost all its images

jmreire

Hi all, just wondered if anyone has used a leak finding additive ( one that shows up under ultra violet light ) and did it do the job? In principle, I am not really in favour of putting anything into the coolant that is not expressly designed for it ( Anti-Freeze / Rust Inhibitor etc ) But if some one has used this leak finder, how did it work for you?
Thanks.

Hal1

Can you see evidence of a leak? if not, maybe it's evaporating due to a poor seal around the cap.

jmreire

Hal1 wrote: »

Can you see evidence of a leak? if not, maybe it's evaporating due to a poor seal around the cap.

Hi Hal,
I am monitoring the loss, and while its a very small amount at present, it's definitely leaking somewhere...but with out any visible external sign of leaking that I can see. I don't think that it's the expansion tank cap.. seal looks good, and cap is tight.
If it was a major leak, then it might be easier to track it down....if it was leaking into the engine, the oil colour would change from black to a milky colour.
If it was into the transmission ( this was pretty common on the older Mercs, but not such an issue on the w212's, as different radiator was fitted ) But just in case, I have ordered some glycol test strips to check the transmission fluid.
It could be the heater matrix,,but this will be harder to check...would have to eliminate every other possibility first..anything to do with the heater matrix in a Merc is serious digging.....
So that's why I was asking if any forum members has any experience of adding a dye to the water, and see what shows up under ultra violet light. And to see not only if it works, but that the additive is safe to use, without creating it's own set of problems.

blackbox

Brake Fluid Change on Toyota/Lexus Hybrid

just sharing my experience with RX400h...

I had a look at some YouTube videos and I deduced that the Techstream software wasn't doing any more than giving step-by-step instructions. Logically, if you open the nipples the fluid has to come through - right?

As per instructions I removed ABS relays and bled the front brakes (having emptied and refilled the HUGE reservoir). Absolutely bog standard bleeding process.

Then refitted the relays and proceeded to rear. Ignition on. Helper pressed pedal and I opened nipple. Got two drips and everything shuts down. VSC fault on dash.

Got Techstream connected, checked faults. HYDRAULIC PRESSURE FAILURE. It appears that the rear system is designed to shut down so that it doesn't pump out all of the fluid if there is a leak.

In the process of doing the job I was having some communication drop-outs. It turned out my 12V battery was shot (replacement on order from Mick). I'm hoping that will also solve some intermittent problems with my HIDs.

Eventually got them bled - system pumps them through while someone just holds the pedal down. Very straightforward as long as you have the Techstream software (PS it doesn't appear to work with a 64-bit computer).

So my word of warning is, don't tackle bleeding the rear brakes unless you have access to Techstream software or equivalent.

BorneTobyWilde

What should it cost to do water pump on VW Transporter T5 2.5 tdi , and service it, new oil and filters, and fix a intercooler pipe, he fixed it by drilling two holes in it, and placing two tek screws in it .

Also took him 5 weeks.

colm_mcm

I’d guess water pump around €500 assuming you need a timing belt. Service maybe €150

Tek screws maybe 10c each. Not sure about the labour on that bit.

BorneTobyWilde

colm_mcm wrote: »

I’d guess water pump around €500 assuming you need a timing belt. Service maybe €150

Tek screws maybe 10c each. Not sure about the labour on that bit.

Ah but the water pump is totally independent on this engine. It's behind a plate on side of engine, 3 bolts, and then pulls out. Literally takes minutes to swap out, with the puller tool to extract the old one.
No timing belts involved.





I think this is real time exchange of one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veQKndK--uU