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Insulation on a dropped ceiling

  • 23-11-2008 6:52pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3


    We converted our garage some time ago and we find it quite cold. We're hoping to drop the ceiling and insualte. The existing ceiling is 9 feet high. We intend to attach 70mm kingspan foil backed insulation to underneath the existing ceiling supported by 2x1 battons under the insulation all screwed to the existing cieling. We then plan to errect a toungued and grooved ceiling on to the battons. Does this sound like a good idea?

    Any advice appreicated.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    No....Insulation is like napam in a fire!
    I'd recommend plaster slab then t & g boarding... I know the original slab has plasterboard - but if there's a fire in the room and you're asleep in that room, then the fire in the corner will get between the boards, the insulation will turn to liquid and you will be severely burned before any smoke suffocates you.

    Why not insulate the existing ceiling joists??
    I'm assuming theres an attic over the attached garage. If so and it was built after 1992, then it should be insulated as a fire stop - Building Regulation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 134 ✭✭willbur


    HI WHAT KIND OF ROOF IS ON THE GARAGE , IS IT FLAT, MADE OF WOOD OR CONCRETE OR HIP ROOF WITH TILES OR SLATE,S AND HOW OLD RGDS WILLBUR


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,676 ✭✭✭✭smashey


    willbur wrote: »
    HI WHAT KIND OF ROOF IS ON THE GARAGE , IS IT FLAT, MADE OF WOOD OR CONCRETE OR HIP ROOF WITH TILES OR SLATE,S AND HOW OLD RGDS WILLBUR
    willbur, do us all a favour and hit the caps lock key please.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,569 ✭✭✭Builderfromhell


    RKQ wrote: »
    No....Insulation is like napam in a fire!
    I'd recommend plaster slab then t & g boarding... I know the original slab has plasterboard - but if there's a fire in the room and you're asleep in that room, then the fire in the corner will get between the boards, the insulation will turn to liquid and you will be severely burned before any smoke suffocates you.

    Why not insulate the existing ceiling joists??
    I'm assuming theres an attic over the attached garage. If so and it was built after 1992, then it should be insulated as a fire stop - Building Regulation.

    I'd agree with RKQ.
    One of the young guys on site decided to some waste Kingspan in fireplace. Burn and melted very quickly. I was amazed.
    Why am I using it in all new roofs???

    If you do use Kingspan or Xtratherm then cover with plasterboard not T&G boarding. Ensure you have 50mm ventilation.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 Joe Mc Keown


    willbur wrote: »
    HI WHAT KIND OF ROOF IS ON THE GARAGE , IS IT FLAT, MADE OF WOOD OR CONCRETE OR HIP ROOF WITH TILES OR SLATE,S AND HOW OLD RGDS WILLBUR

    Willbur,
    Thanks for your reply. The house was built 25 years ago, garage is adjoining house by hallway. It is built with a 12 inch cavity wall with inch and half insulation. It has a pitched slated roof. Attic is insulated with rockwoll but still the room is very cold, It has a nine foot ceiling and we would like to drop it and take the opportunity to insulate. Thanks


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 Joe Mc Keown


    I'd agree with RKQ.
    One of the young guys on site decided to some waste Kingspan in fireplace. Burn and melted very quickly. I was amazed.
    Why am I using it in all new roofs???

    If you do use Kingspan or Xtratherm then cover with plasterboard not T&G boarding. Ensure you have 50mm ventilation.

    RKQ & Builderfromhell;
    Thanks for reply . This is a good point. I hadn't thought about that aspect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,292 ✭✭✭RKQ


    You're welcome Joe.
    Adding 200mm plus Insulation to the attic should be cheaper, quicker and equally as effective as lowering the ceiling. Worth trying first.

    What type of heating is in the garage? (Small rad. perhaps)

    A south facing rooflight could help warm up the space during the day.
    Drylining the walls with kingspan + plasterslab could be of benefit. External walls only.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 152 ✭✭Heatherview


    Hi Joe Mc Keown
    I would agree with rkq. Roll 200mm insulation over existing insulation. 9' ceiling screw up 38mm board ( 12.5mm slab+25.5mm insulation combined in sheet ) tape the joints. Check your Radiator output might not be sufficient to heat area properly. You could also dryline your external walls inside as well.
    It would be worth it save energy, will be nice and warm.

    Heatherview


  • Registered Users Posts: 85 ✭✭WUFF


    Hi
    I have a garage converted to a bedroom which is also hard to heat.
    The external walls have been drylined with treated battens and rockwool and then plasterboard. The orginal roof is a flat concrete roof about 4" thickness.
    We have left the concrete roof in place and added a new pitched roof over it. Would it help if I insulated the space between the two roofs bearing in mind the internal room ceiling is concrete with a skim finish?
    There is no head room to add any insulation to the ceiling.
    Any help apreciated
    Tom.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,408 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    If you haven't the head height for insulating under the concrete ceiling then fit 250mm - 300mm fiberglass (or rockwool) above.


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