Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Heat Pumps - post here.

Options
1102103105107108119

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,398 ✭✭✭randombar


    Right, commissioned today, a bit of learning in it all right.

    So I had it set to space heat, I noticed however after maybe 20 mins a "lightning" symbol appeared next to the heat pump icon on the controller. My understanding is this is the internal immersion or something, maybe to give it an extra boost? (going from 12 to 18 deg here).

    So I've change the mode to flow temp (or something) and it's pushing out 40 at the moment.

    I tried the weather compensating mode but (1) I couldn't edit the curve (no edit button) and (2) the heat pump didn't seem to kick in, again maybe I need everything to be equalised first.

    Also didn't come with the wifi module, any recommendations on where to get one?

    [Ecodan here]



  • Registered Users Posts: 1 lop_ire85


    Hi,

    I am hoping someone can tell me if I have an issue with my ASHP.

    I have an ASHP which feeds radiators, which have been recently balanced and all TRVs are fully open. The issue I am seeing is that the return water appears (for me anyways) to get up to temperature quickly which then tells the heat pump cuts out for a period. I have monitored the heat pump to get some figures on the issue. An average hour follows this pattern, heat pump will cycle on and off about 6 times, staying on for about 16 minutes and then off for about 10 minutes.

    Is this normal heat pump behaviour, to cycle this often?



  • Registered Users Posts: 7 tvmediasrv


    Hi,


    Ive a daiken altherma 3 heat pump with ufh, new home and well insulated. Ive been testing the leaving water control and turned my wall stats up full and my wd curve is set quite low, 13c outdoors, leaving water temp is only 25c. That still maintains indoor rooms at 21.5c

    What I've noticed is the heat pump is cycling alot and not sure if this should be the case.My energy consumption isn't too bad uses about 10kw per day. The pump operation is on sampling mode rather than continuous. The setpoint is 25c (but there is a setting to overshoot 1c, which cant be set to 0c).

    The cycle starts with the pump turning on every three minutes which I believe it's supposed to do. The leaving water temp is 27c and 1 minute into the pump coming on the leaving water temp drops to about 23.8, then a minute later the compressor starts, gets leaving water temp back up 27c then the pumps stops and then three minutes later the process starts again.




  • Registered Users Posts: 7 tvmediasrv




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Definitely should not cycle every few minutes. Tried allowing a bigger over shoot? 3-4 degrees?

    😎



  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Is your house not getting warm enough that the wall stats are up full? You will be having a constant call for heat, but the flow/return temperature is being satisfied quite quickly.

    27 actually seems on the low side, as some heatpumps don't really like having it below 30-35?



  • Registered Users Posts: 45 muckyba


    I also have Daikin Altherma 3 and trying to get a handle on how to configure properly to ensure its running optimally.



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    I have an IVT AirX as well. I bought one of these from Sweden. You just plug it into the service cable, works very well. It can be used with home assistant. https://husdata.se/h66-info-autmation/



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,019 ✭✭✭youcancallmeal


    Interesting, where exactly on the unit does it plug in? I'm hoping not the rear as that is not really accessible for me, mine is right up against a wall in the hot press



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    No, just remove the front cover and there is a cable hanging down - like an 3.5mm audio cable. Installation guide for IVT is here. https://husdata.se/docs/heat-pump-installation/10-rego-2000-3000-ivt-bosch-2013-current/rego-2-3000-installation/



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 8,019 ✭✭✭youcancallmeal


    Brilliant, gonna order it so. What kind of device do you have home assistant installed on? What do you find it useful for other than seeing live(and historical?) stats about the heat pump performance?



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Just a raspberry pi, you don't need home assistant but it helps to track data. Below is the output from just accessing the device IP address. I think they have there own software but I didnt use that. It isn't cheap, but make sure to order in króna using revolut and not euro.

    It allows you to change temperature etc but that isn't really necessary. Bar consumption, not sure all the other info is critical to know, but it does give insight into how it operates which helps my understanding at least.




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    I'm planning a heat pump installation for next year. However, my two radiator circuits are both 1/2" backbones. Upstairs and downstairs both have 5 rads on each.

    Q1 - should I replace the backbone with 3/4" or 1" ?

    Q2 - Would multilayer (Comisa type) pipe be more insulative than copper ? In a sense, copper is more conductive rather than insulative

    I'm planning to install a Vaillant AroTherm



  • Registered Users Posts: 20,059 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    it doesnt appear so from the website but any idea if this would work with a samsung HP or if not is there a similar alternative?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    My plumber only uses copper now in hotpresses etc, eg once it's on the tank it doesn't move.

    Everywhere else it's plastic (hep20)



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Don't know about that. Unless a Samsung heat pump is just a badge on another brand mentioned on the website. I know IVT heatpumps are also sold as Bosch and Buderus.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Joined the Heat Pump club :D

    Instantaneous COP of 4.8, but the buffer tank temperature is still only at about 30c. Plan to heat to the mid 40's (I have a 500L buffer tank that i'm heating and the house will pull from that.) Ambient temp is about 7c currently.

    Quieter than the old oil boiler (although that hasnt run since March 2022. ) when standing outside

    Can just about hear it in our ensuite with the window closed, and dont hear it in the bedroom.

    There is a scheduler in it so I could heat it higher on night rate and store that energy too.




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,454 ✭✭✭DC999


    Class. Did you diy it or do any parts of the labour yourself to reduce the cost?

    I'll deffo look at one myself but would need to reduce the labour cost on it a lot to be more affordable.

    Watched the video you posted of the fella in Wales thay did the self install and working a charm for him and is getting a savagely good scop.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Yeah. Most of the work was fitted in around farm work. The most unpleasant bit was coring out 2 4" holes for the pipework through 10" wall (6" [farmer] blocks on built on the flat). Rest was fairly simple pipework.

    My plumber is flat out these days, but was at the end of the phone if I needed him.

    My install goes straight into the tank so that simplified it a lot, and willing to take any efficiency hit. House can take from the tank as it needs.

    I got the ecoforest 3-12kw, it can self regulate down to 3kw(output) if needed. I think it reduces the compressor and pump speed to keep a delta of 5c between the flow and return. Although on the buffer it just runs flat out. Looking at it now, 2.8kw of electricity for 11.5kw of heat. (Cop 4.1)

    Max temperature of buffer is 46, might take the efficiency hit and push that to 50.

    Or just light a fire, for the extra boost.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Do people with large buffer find they get through the full day and back on electricity night rate before the pump needs to fire again?


    I know most efficient way (kw/year) is to let pump do its thing but with a buffer and such a large difference in night and day cost per kw then avoiding KWs during day rate must be the primary goal?

    😎



  • Registered Users Posts: 228 ✭✭curioustony


    Would a dedicated battery make more sense?

    🌞4.55 kWp, azimuth 136°, slope 24°, 5kW, 🛢️10.9kWh, Roscommon



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Delta on the tank is only 10c, On a 500L is only 5kwh. I am planning on heating to 55 on night rate, just havent that setup yet. There is a timer function on the heatpump, but I think I might do it via modbus.


    But am currently able to run the majority from batteries. Dedicated battery makes much more sense. Needs to be a big one!



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    Battery's don't work great for a heat pump in a large house I think? Pulls too much too kW too quickly ? just end up flying through battery cycles? Plus there's inefficiency/ loss in KW in and out of battery?


    as graememk says would need a big battery for many houses! My pump is old and KW hungry but I think even when I replace it I am still going to be 30-40kw per day - currently 50+

    😎



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    New heatpumps are inverter driven.

    Mine Pulls roughly 3 kw. Ramps up relatively slowly. Id gladly pay Night rate+20% vs day rate.

    Have my logging setup now, should see what the demand/ day is



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,024 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    I run my HP off of the house battery during the day. No issues, the HP rarely draws over 1kW in the current mild weather.

    No buffer tank so I just let the HP do it's own thing 24 hours a day. Except the DHW which only heats at night.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1 AudiO23


    Hi All,

    I also have a Neura ground source heat pump. Just wondered if anyone has replaced the 3 phase compressor with a single phase one? Removing the need for the inverter? Heatpump troubleshooting in mayo are suggesting this. Does it work with the Neura geo thermal system. Or has anyone replaced the inverter to a single phase to run alongside the compressor. Inverter gone again, but there's a difference in cost. Any advice appreciated!



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Generally, motors that are inverter driven are only 3 phase. That's why you have an inverter to drive them. - so you can vary the speed of the motor.

    Single phase motors don't work with inverters and are just on/off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,574 ✭✭✭veryangryman


    I'm debating taking the lounge for a HP. In terms of first insulating, are there approved people I can call to survey the insulation here and suggest improvements, grants etc.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Usage way down compared to last year. Changes this winter have no zones, flow going throughout the house which is ran 24/7 in cold and run1-9pm in mild conditions like today. Have found fixed flow@29 is getting house to 21/22 and just generally warm feel running 24/7. Last winter on weather compensation in recent cold spell, flow would have been high30s/low40s after installer settings. Really have to tweak system yourself for optimal performance, installers cant and wont do it in day.

    Post edited by newhouse87 on


Advertisement