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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I suppose with the controller and that thermostat in there is constantly calling for heat, that's why the circulation pumps are running constantly. Not necessarily a bad thing though. Heatpump is kicking in when the flow temperatures are dropping low enough, and boosts the temperature back up.

    You do have a power monitor in home assistant though, I wonder could you add one for the heatpump too? Then at least you can separate the house use from the heatpump (eg overnight I can see a big jump in the house load and then also the HP coming in and out)

    You could estimate house "idle" use by counting base power, and guesstimate the HP use.

    Hp is running 4x in 30 mins. At about 1500w say 15 mins in 30,

    In an hour it would use 750wh

    That's about 18kwh in a day.

    If you can't measure you can't optimise.



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    Something in your setup seems way off, are you sure those are the correct flow temps? Yesterday you used 42kWh, that seems absolutely mental to me, the weather the last week hasnt been that cold. Ive my flow temp at 27c and used 6kWh yesterday (just ufh) to keep the house at 21.5c I dont run the heat pump at night, it starts up in the morning again.

    I purchased one of those laser temp guns to make sure my ufh was properly balanced everywhere, I found it a big help to identify temps across my floors and walls.

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    I changed to fixed flow after reading your posts and im v happy with approx 12kwh ufh usage in these conditions to get house to21/22, but 6kwh your using is v impressive. How long are you running it for,and size of your house? Like when mine comes on at 11am it uses near 2kw alone to get up to my lwt of 29 and then modulates down so usage drops to 1 or below? Do you not see any spike in usage when first starting in morning?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,341 ✭✭✭Nelbert


    Been looking in to a few solutions. We've blinds that went in at the start of the year on main windows but the extension also has perimeter glazing around the top which looks great but I'm now considering the window tinting or blinds up there too (span of the high windows a challenge though).

    I'm more concerned about the glare on my TV than the heat, open back door and place cools down, but doesn't make my TV experience better!



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    I usually run the heat pump from 10-8pm, Ive found this works best for me, Im on a 24h plan, so maybe it would change if I had night rates, but for now I dont. My heat pump increases its flow temp slowly, so for the first hour or so it might be only 24 slowly increasing to 27-28 after an hour. House is 210sqm 2 story.

    It took me a few winters to really see/tweak whats best for our house/situation.

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Yep i run similar in these conditions 11-9pm. 242sqm, im happy with 12kwh usage for heating and house 21/22 in the evening time and generally 20/21 following morning. my pump works flat out to get to lwt29 and then modulates down output. Def think if people can find lowest fixed flow to heat their house it would work better and be cheaper then weather comp but all installers and experts are adamant about weather comp. Currently trending towards 30% lower usage for period nov to jan this winter by having no zones and lowest fixed flow.



  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    Yeah weather comp didnt work great for me. I think its probably better on the continent where there are big swings in temperature, we have a very moderate weather pattern with low swings in temperature for the most part.

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 171 ✭✭paddyman


    Hi guys,

    Mitsubishi Ecodan have a heatpump with model number: PXZ-5F85VG. My plumber has recommend it as part of a retrofit with UFH we are doing on a bungalow. He advised that it can also perform cooling (with extra indoor wall units) as well as do my UFH/DHW.

    I like the idea of been able to add cooling in future if it was ever required.

    Does anyone have any thoughts on the model?, Any downsides for its primary roles of UFH/DHW?.

    Thanks,

    Paddy



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,136 ✭✭✭championc


    I think it's down to whether it's sized correctly based on the heat loss of the house. It's an 8.5kW unit. I think it will function exactly as he has told you, but as you might see from others, if not done right, can cost a fortune to run.



  • Registered Users Posts: 290 ✭✭Eleusis


    I have the non cooling ecodan. I wish I went for the cooling version for heatwaves in the summer, especially if you have solar too. IMO if you had UFH you wouldn't need any casettes for cooling. Cold floor would be enough to take the edge off during heat wave.

    Anyone know is it the indoor or outdoor unit that dictates if it cools too? Or both? I'd consider upgrading in the future if it was just the outside unit.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Anyone any idea where I would pick up a few of these? They are M28 manual actuators for underfloor heating manifolds. Can't seem to find them online.




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Do they operate in the same way as TRV Valves?, more pressure means more open?



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Not sure about that, the more I tighten the less the flow on the sight glass, the pin moves down. I'm going to use these instead of stats, try to get an even balance throughout. Half my system has these, the rest are using room stats. I've been reading swedish varmepumpsforum.com , most there say it better to control temps using the manifold rather than room stats. Open all stats fully then try to get a balanced temp throughout.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I had it backwards!, More pressure is less flow, Like you said.

    If your finding no joy, It shouldnt be too hard to design and 3d print something. I should have a old trv from the radiator that i replaced that was m28*1.5 thread.

    If you know any plumbers they might have a few lying about... I know 1 came with the last TRV i fitted but No idea where it is now.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk




  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Yes, that looks like it would work. Cheers.



  • Registered Users Posts: 739 ✭✭✭gandalfio


    Can heat pump outdoor units/their fans be affected by snow?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,891 ✭✭✭dominatinMC


    Yes. The fact that snow forms at 0deg and below is one issue - meaning the pump is working harder to provide the temperature lift, but the practical implication of snow is that it can accumulate around the outdoor unit, ultimately blocking the air flow through the unit and compromising it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 739 ✭✭✭gandalfio




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I don't think it's an issue, it would be similar to frosting that can occur when temperatures are low especially between 0 and 4 degrees

    Heatpumps have an auto defrost function that clears the frost when required.

    pic was just before a defrost happened.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 290 ✭✭Eleusis


    im guessing you would have to dig the snow away so it wasnt obstructing the front or back of it. this is a once in a few years accurance in ireland though to get enough snow to build up and settle around it



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    How I estimate Heat pump is I know my summer (zero heating required) usage averages 22KW per day including heating hot water.

    Then find your average usage in winter which for me is around 70-80Kw (cry myself to sleep), so 50-60KW of heat pump (and associated circulation pumps) per day. I also know that the small pumps use around 150-200KW per hour, so I know that about 8KW of the 50-60 is extra pumps, so the heat pump itself is around 42-52KW. House around 350sqm.

    😎



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Been saying it all along, something ain't right.

    Although my house is half the size of yours, if you look at my stats, I'm only using 20-25kwh per day (with a scop of 3.5, so 70-100 ish kWh of heat needed)

    I've asked this before, but in the winter is the house warm?



  • Registered Users Posts: 58 ✭✭tugii20


    Have you fixed error 95?

    If so

    How?

    I am having same issue


    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    22kwh of input to the heatpump even with a COP of 2.5 would be enough to heat about 1000L of 15c water to 60C. That seems like an awful lot of hot water.

    I use a total of 400-500L of water per day in total (hot and cold) washing machine / toilets / showers / etc… everything.

    Do you think you’re using 1000L of hot water? What temp are you heating the water to?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,090 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I wonder there could be a backup immersion running or something like that.

    22kWh would be a decent sized DHW tank



  • Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭johndoe11


    Also, not sure not sure the pumps could be using 8kwh per day. The grundfos internal heat transfer medium pump is rated for max 70w in mine and rarely runs above 50%, the Wilo water circulation pump is only max 45w and runs constantly at about 60%.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap


    That would be good for about 400L of water; which seems a lot more possible. Maybe they do use 1000L of hot water.



  • Registered Users Posts: 824 ✭✭✭HotSwap




    My boost pump; which runs intermittently any time any tap (hot or cold) in the house is turned on. Can use 800-1000w per day.

    Im moving the washing machine to a location that is not boosted; which will make it run much less often.

    I know it’s not a central heating pump; but just thought it might be interesting comparison.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭poker--addict


    oh missed it if you asked...yes house gets to temp. 19 in bedrooms usually, 19-20 downstairs. I think what aint right is the setup/design. The video linked before where heat geek looked at an install with too many bits (pumps/buffer tanks) resonates with me. Its at a point now where i think i am best to suck it up and wait till it goes POP, before paying out 20k for a replacement.

    😎



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