Heat Pumps - post here.

Tommyboy08

ferryman35 wrote: »

There's another make & model out there that could be worth your while consider. The one I have in mind is an inverter model so it will modulate to your heat loss load anywhere between 2.5 & 12kw - but it takes the ground loop capacity into account so it won't be trying to soak 12 kw out or your ground loop if the loop can only supply 8kw. It's SCOP is 5.43 - and it has industry leading hot water capacity of 300L from a 229l buffer. Feel free to send me a pm if you'd like more information.

There is also a modulating ground source heat pump on the market with an SCOP of 6.6,
On the hot water tank, the best technology out there are fresh water systems, legionnaires free hot water without having to punish your heat pump compressor by forcing it to reach temps in excess of 60C adding years of life to the compressor,

clarelady

Hi
We are at final decision stages of deciding on a heat pump - we are going with atw and happy with that decision but not sure on which one. We are between daikon split integrated or a thermia atec both 11kw. Can anyone who has installed either let me know how they are performing and running costs and if they would recommend either. We are going with ufh downstairs and rads upstairs. Pm if need to
Thx

gctest50

http://www.aircon.panasonic.eu/GB_en/ranges/aquarea/ht/


Aquarea HT

For a house with traditional high-temperature radiators

Aquarea HT is able to deliver 65°C with the Heat Pump alone.
For a house with high temperature radiators (for example, cast iron radiators), the Aquarea High Temperature Solution is most suited as it provides output water temperatures of 65°C even at -20°C.

from here: http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=100630544#post100630544

Water John

Clare,the higher the temp you ask from a HP the lower the efficiency ratio.
I would use alu rads up stairs and not go for high temp.
With modern building and sealed envelope, very little heating needed upstairs.
Each floor can have a manifold supplied directly from the HP and control the areas with thermostats in the rooms and Actuators on the manifolds that open and close each valve.

ferryman35

clarelady wrote: »

Hi
We are at final decision stages of deciding on a heat pump - we are going with atw and happy with that decision but not sure on which one. We are between daikon split integrated or a thermia atec both 11kw. Can anyone who has installed either let me know how they are performing and running costs and if they would recommend either. We are going with ufh downstairs and rads upstairs. Pm if need to
Thx

Check both the capacity and the temperature of the hot water systems in both.

If have a hot water cylinder you need it to be heated to 65'C at least weekly to prevent bacteria growing in the system. Some systems can do this with the heatpump but many use immersion heaters to do it.....i.e. significant running costs.


A split unit means that you have to get a Refrigeration Engineer to look after the gas, but he may or may not be able to look after the plumbing side...meaning that you may need 2 callouts (or a very good specialist) for repairs down the road.

Also check the defrost setup as this has a major impact on your running costs and heat delivery, just when you need it most - in cold damp weather!

There are other units that you haven't mentioned too!

sheff the ref

You can have the immersion on a weekly timer and it is really only topping up the hot water temperature from whatever the heatpump has heated it to originally. Therefore the immersion cost would be quite low as the bulk of the heating is already done.

ferryman35 wrote: »

Check both the capacity and the temperature of the hot water systems in both.

If have a hot water cylinder you need it to be heated to 65'C at least weekly to prevent bacteria growing in the system. Some systems can do this with the heatpump but many use immersion heaters to do it.....i.e. significant running costs.


A split unit means that you have to get a Refrigeration Engineer to look after the gas, but he may or may not be able to look after the plumbing side...meaning that you may need 2 callouts (or a very good specialist) for repairs down the road.

Also check the defrost setup as this has a major impact on your running costs and heat delivery, just when you need it most - in cold damp weather!

There are other units that you haven't mentioned too!

adrianm1234

Anyone heard of ES air to water heat pump? Swedish make . Anyone got it installed and how is it performing?? Any advice would be appreciated . New build heating system 2300sq ft house.cheers in advance

Philburns

adrianm1234 wrote: »

Anyone heard of ES air to water heat pump? Swedish make . Anyone got it installed and how is it performing?? Any advice would be appreciated . New build heating system 2300sq ft house.cheers in advance

Hi, I have an SE AWH 9 kW – V5 retrofit. Had it for two years and am very happy with it so far. My house is an old cottage, well insulated in the roof but not particularly energy efficient, I imagine your new build will be much better energy wise.

adrianm1234

Philburns wrote: »

Hi, I have an SE AWH 9 kW – V5 retrofit. Had it for two years and am very happy with it so far. My house is an old cottage, well insulated in the roof but not particularly energy efficient, I imagine your new build will be much better energy wise.

Thanks for the info. How do you find the running costs.

Philburns

adrianm1234 wrote: »

Thanks for the info. How do you find the running costs.

My annual electric bill went from around 1,400 to 1,900. I was running on solid fuel before on which I was spending approx 1,700.

I do still have a small wood burner for backup heating, I spent around 200 on logs over last winter.

So overall a saving of 1000 euro or so, plus an awful lot more convenience and always hot water and radiators - we are keeping the house at a constant temperature between 18 and 20 degrees.

BarneyMc

The outside part of my HP (the fan part) was fitted at the back of my house but every time I go to my back door I get the full blast of it!! I'm gutted my installer didn't inform me of the blast I would be getting.

Did anyone mount their HP high up on an outside wall? This might be my best move. I know I've the issue of a drip tray and get the run off into a down pipe but I have that (see attached pic). My thoughts are to raise it straight up the wall above the window rather than below. All thoughts welcome.

MENACE2010

BarneyMc wrote: »

The outside part of my HP (the fan part) was fitted at the back of my house but every time I go to my back door I get the full blast of it!! I'm gutted my installer didn't inform me of the blast I would be getting.

Did anyone mount their HP high up on an outside wall? This might be my best move. I know I've the issue of a drip tray and get the run off into a down pipe but I have that (see attached pic). My thoughts are to raise it straight up the wall above the window rather than below. All thoughts welcome.

Maybe easier to mount a deflector next to the door. So you don't get the blast. Ps ensure that the pump is decoupled some how otherwise you will hear it through the house.

Wegian

BarneyMc wrote: »

The outside part of my HP (the fan part) was fitted at the back of my house but every time I go to my back door I get the full blast of it!! I'm gutted my installer didn't inform me of the blast I would be getting.

Did anyone mount their HP high up on an outside wall? This might be my best move. I know I've the issue of a drip tray and get the run off into a down pipe but I have that (see attached pic). My thoughts are to raise it straight up the wall above the window rather than below. All thoughts welcome.

Have you a garage out the back you could fix it to?

BarneyMc

MENACE2010 wrote: »

Maybe easier to mount a deflector next to the door. So you don't get the blast. Ps ensure that the pump is decoupled some how otherwise you will hear it through the house.

I don't think a deflector would work. It's still going to catch you when you walk past the deflector.

BarneyMc

Wegian wrote: »

Have you a garage out the back you could fix it to?

I could but it's a bit too far away and would be worried about the loss in efficiency.

Big Dec

Hi all,

I'm having issues with keeping house cool(ish) during very warm days & it was suggested to me about using the brine loop for my heat pump to chill the incoming air for my HRV system.
Has anyone come across anything like this before?
Seems like a good idea once you get all of the controls & condensate sorted.
In my case, it would go on the incoming feed, just before the HRV.
You could use some sort of cooling battery & then use a diverter valve to run brine through the battery with existing brine circulation pump.
I had never thought about this before, so just wondering if anyone had any thoughts?

Condenser

Big Dec wrote: »

Hi all,

I'm having issues with keeping house cool(ish) during very warm days & it was suggested to me about using the brine loop for my heat pump to chill the incoming air for my HRV system.
Has anyone come across anything like this before?
Seems like a good idea once you get all of the controls & condensate sorted.
In my case, it would go on the incoming feed, just before the HRV.
You could use some sort of cooling battery & then use a diverter valve to run brine through the battery with existing brine circulation pump.
I had never thought about this before, so just wondering if anyone had any thoughts?

We do it regularly. You need to fit a cooling coil on the supply line after the hrv. This will have its own condensate tray. You'll also need a pump and 2 way valve.

BarneyMc

BarneyMc wrote: »

The outside part of my HP (the fan part) was fitted at the back of my house but every time I go to my back door I get the full blast of it!! I'm gutted my installer didn't inform me of the blast I would be getting.

Did anyone mount their HP high up on an outside wall? This might be my best move. I know I've the issue of a drip tray and get the run off into a down pipe but I have that (see attached pic). My thoughts are to raise it straight up the wall above the window rather than below. All thoughts welcome.

I just spoke to the installer and he said 80% of people place them at their front door so they get the blast every time they come out that door. I find that hard to believe!

Wegian

BarneyMc wrote: »

I could but it's a bit too far away and would be worried about the loss in efficiency.

You can run the lines to it with insulated piping, Qualpex, which would reduce the efficiency loss but is quite expensive

Water John

Yeah, would suggest putting it against the garage wall. Piping is about €40/metre.

Wegian

Water John wrote: »

Yeah, would suggest putting it against the garage wall. Piping is about €40/metre.

Well sugar, Plumber quoted 25 to me, another few bobs gone from my budget so :eek:

Water John

Could be that. I might be pricing 4 pipe rather than 2 pipe. Considering the price of the overall installation I don't understand skimping on this, just for a few metres of insulated piping.

murphaph

BarneyMc wrote: »

The outside part of my HP (the fan part) was fitted at the back of my house but every time I go to my back door I get the full blast of it!! I'm gutted my installer didn't inform me of the blast I would be getting.

Did anyone mount their HP high up on an outside wall? This might be my best move. I know I've the issue of a drip tray and get the run off into a down pipe but I have that (see attached pic). My thoughts are to raise it straight up the wall above the window rather than below. All thoughts welcome.

How much of a gap is there between heat pump and house there Barney? Our Atec has to have 40cm clearance behind it to allow an unobstructed air flow. Yours looks tight there in the pic. I'd also look at decoupling that from your house. The low frequency vibration is unpleasant. Most advice I seem to see on the net over here is to not fix it to the dwelling at all and build a separate foundation for it.

BarneyMc

murphaph wrote: »

How much of a gap is there between heat pump and house there Barney? Our Atec has to have 40cm clearance behind it to allow an unobstructed air flow. Yours looks tight there in the pic. I'd also look at decoupling that from your house. The low frequency vibration is unpleasant. Most advice I seem to see on the net over here is to not fix it to the dwelling at all and build a separate foundation for it.

No it's not tight at all, there's at least a few inches if not more from my recollection.

damanloox

Hi,

I've a quick question re: heat pumps... What if there's electricity failure in the middle of winter that lasts for a day or two and the heat pump is the only source of heating...?
That might sound silly but I'm going to buy a house where heat pump is the only heating source and I've 3 week old baby (and the winter is coming...)

murphaph

damanloox wrote: »

Hi,

I've a quick question re: heat pumps... What if there's electricity failure in the middle of winter that lasts for a day or two and the heat pump is the only source of heating...?
That might sound silly but I'm going to buy a house where heat pump is the only heating source and I've 3 week old baby (and the winter is coming...)

If you're lucky the hot water tank will be fairly full and you can ration it. If it's a well insulated, airtight house with UFH then the place will hold the heat for a couple of days if you keep your windows and doors closed. If it's not then it'll cool down as quickly as any other house and you'll need a super ser. Is the possibility there to add a small wood burning stove to provide a backup?

By the way a boiler based system would be knocked out as well as the circulation pump needs electricity even if you could start the boiler without it.

The issue here isn't the heat pump but that you've no backup.

Water John

Well a jenny is another option. Run it a few hours each day to operate HP.
As Damian says, would always prefer to have some sort of alt heat source.

sheff the ref

Id say an investment in a generator would be a wise option. Might only use it sparingly but it certainly would save a lot of headaches.

However it is best to have a solid fuel source of heat as to be 100% reliant on electricity is not ideal. Most power cuts are in winter and in bad weather which means they dont get to restore power quickly

murphaph wrote: »

If you're lucky the hot water tank will be fairly full and you can ration it. If it's a well insulated, airtight house with UFH then the place will hold the heat for a couple of days if you keep your windows and doors closed. If it's not then it'll cool down as quickly as any other house and you'll need a super ser. Is the possibility there to add a small wood burning stove to provide a backup?

By the way a boiler based system would be knocked out as well as the circulation pump needs electricity even if you could start the boiler without it.

The issue here isn't the heat pump but that you've no backup.

sheff the ref

Is there any advantage to placing an air to water heatpump inside a lean to shed with one open side off the back of the garage. Would it be sheltered from lower temperatures and therefore become more efficient?

BarneyMc wrote: »

I just spoke to the installer and he said 80% of people place them at their front door so they get the blast every time they come out that door. I find that hard to believe!

Water John

Sheff, no, remember your HP is drawing heat from the passing air. Sheltering it will make it less efficient.

Remember, the jenny would need to be a fairly serious hitter.