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Heat Pumps - post here.

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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,994 ✭✭✭c.p.w.g.w


    Quick Question...if you have a heat pump, and the requirement for air tightness...how does ventilation work in that set up?



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,394 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Well in our case the builder did it the cheap way and knocked some holes in the wall of each room and put vent covers over them. So we'll get a nice cold draught in winter when the wind is blowing strong 🥶

    Air tightness is more about controlled ventilation of the house and making sure the air changes enough to be fresh but slow enough not to cause heat losses or cold draughts


    We still end up opening the windows for an hour or two in the middle of the day to freshen up the air though

    Personally in a few years I think I'll be upgrading to a heat recovery ventilation system. Lot of expense, but I feel it's worth it to have fresh, warm air in the house

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



  • Registered Users Posts: 96 ✭✭TheHulk


    Any help would be appreciated on something I have noticed lately:


    I have a Hitachi Yutaki system that has worked perfectly for a year, so much so that I took little notice of it. 


    Had a boiler service last month and since then it's behavior seems more unpredictable. 


    The DHW temperature is set to 50°C. Checked it this morning about 7am the actual water temperature was 47°C. Checked it an hour later and it was down to 41°C, shortly after it was 39°C. I am in the house alone and purposely did not use any water during this time.


    Any suggestions as to what might be causing this? Could the system be purging hot water somehow?

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 55 ✭✭yermanhimself


    Atlantic Alfea Extensa Heatpump

    Can anyone recommend someone in the Wexford area to repair a fault on the above heat pump ?

    Thanks in advance



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,758 ✭✭✭funnyname


    Currently doing a renovation on our house, got windows put in during the week so decided to turn the gshp back on.

    It has been off since the end of April however during the summer, I used it a few times to heat the buffer tank for hot water.

    I turned it back on for 12 hours on Thursday to get some heat into the house but the temperature in the loops never got higher than 20 degrees so the underfloor didn't heat the floor at all.

    I then checked that it was working by just calling it for hot water and all was fine.

    So I thought to myself maybe it needs to run for longer just to throw off the summer cobwebs.

    However one thing I did notice was that the header tank (full of blue anti freeze?) above the unit was leaking a small bit, seems to be a small bit lopsided due to corrosion on the left support bracket.

    I left a bowl underneath this to see how bad the leak was.

    So then this morning, again no increase in the heat in the house, bottom of buffer tank was 20c and there was about a half litre of blue fluid in the bowl.

    Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,913 ✭✭✭GTE


    Hi all,

    I hope this is the right thread, I've some general heat pump questions.

    I've a new build (A2 rated), with a Samsung Gen6 air source heatpump. All heating is radiator based.

    I've a thermostat in the living room and master bedroom with two of those small wireless temp sensors in the kitchen and rear bedroom.

    The developer said to set the downstairs to 20 or 21 and upstairs to 18 and leave it the system on 24/7. They said changing the temp each day would cost a lot of money.

    After three nights, upstairs is a tad too warm during the night. The upstairs rads do not seem to ever come on, it's consistently above 18 degrees which is nice, it shows the A2 working.

    The developer advice seems lazy to be honest. A few sources online promote setting timers to lower the temp at stages of the day. They say not to switch the system off, but not to leave it at a single set temperature.

    Also, I've no idea how the hot water works. I get the sense that it cools down relatively quickly but I need more experience. I saw on a commissioning video series on YouTube that there is an immersion feature on the hot water tank which they say to use at 3am and 3pm, to save the heatpump itself from being driven too hard.

    We have good experiences so far! The radiators do seem to rarely be on, which is nice.



  • Registered Users Posts: 106 ✭✭47akak


    This seems to be a new line from OpenEnergyMonitor. Has anyone had one installed? Do they work well? I have an old Waterfurnace pump.

    For long term planning I'd like to get a good look at what the heat pump is doing, and just to see what it does. Currently I can have kWh usage, but that's it.

    https://github.com/openenergymonitor/HeatpumpMonitor/blob/master/selectingheatmeter.md



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,758 ✭✭✭funnyname


    Anyone got opinions on a heliotherm gshp? I'm looking to replace my clapped out one and I'm leaning towards this as it has a cop of 6.0



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,419 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    you need to see the two EN standard spec sheets, one for heating, one for HW to find the COP that will be relevant.where is the 6 coming from?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 93 ✭✭Dangee4050


    Is it normal for an a2w hitachi heat pump to be frozen up for the whole morning and not defrost? Been 6 hours now. Sounds like an airplane. is there anyway I can get it to defrost Or is it faulty?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭keno-daytrader


    Not normal at all, the defrost cycle is supposed to be automatic. I would suggest powering off until the ice is gone, followed by a full reboot will solve it best case, if keeps freezing get your manual out to diagnose.

    ☀️ 6.72kWp ⚡2.52kWp south, ⚡4.20kWp west



  • Registered Users Posts: 18 Thewires


    looking for help with a rough idea of cost of installing a heat pump with around 240-300l tank. The house is late 2005 timber frame, 3,500 square foot, double glazed with 30cm insulation in roof. It has 8 zone underfloor heating downstairs (8thermostats) and 8 radiators upstairs (controlled by one thermostat). I currently have an oil boiler heating a 300 liter tank supplemented with solar coils.

    the tank has sprung a leak and has been patched but it’s in its last legs so need to get it done in the next few months.

    First quote I received is for 12500 for a Daikan altherma 3, 300l tank and 9 smart thermostats. That’s after 3700 grant for pump and smart controls has been applied!

    seems high!



  • Registered Users Posts: 444 ✭✭alan kelly


    Got a 12k quote today for a Daikan altherma 3 (after the grant). Includes 3 thermostats and decommissioning of the oil boiler system. It also includes the technical assessment and post works BER. Again feedback on the quote ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 43 CraftBeer


    Hi, regarding GSHP's, are these suitable for houses that do not have a pump room? I have a hot press which could take a taller cylinder, but I wouldn't have the room inside for any other floor standing components... unless they could be put in the attic.


    Same question for A2W heat pumps. Can all components, bar a taller cylinder, be kept outside?


    thanks.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,419 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    You can get a single unit that goes outside, downside is that its the HW pipes that run to the house, where as with the two part, its the refrigerant

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 43 CraftBeer


    Thanks for the info.


    After reading this report on vertical borehole screwups in Germany, I think i'll give the idea of a GSHP in an urban area a wide berth and focus on A2W or A2W/Oil Hybrid as the solution when the current Oil boiler dies.





  • Registered Users Posts: 12,419 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Thanks for the link, they should never have been allowed anywhere

    Re the all in one units: the refrigerant side is all done in the factory, the plumbing is simplified as you don't need an F gas certified lad to do that piece on site

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users Posts: 116 ✭✭MENACE2010


    Hi BBK

    Check if you can lower the radiator water temperature .. ( I googled a Samsung manual and I think its called Discharge water), It takes a good bit of experimenting to get it right. We have a thermia Pump and the first winter it was literally Mediterranean climate in the house after 7 winters I have correct. gradually lower the heating temperature of the water.. leave the rads open. Its more of a constant climate mode... Hot water (we have a night meter) only is generated after 11 PM and before 9 AM.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,113 ✭✭✭✭Gael23


    Is converting a 90s house with GFCH to heat pump a worthwhile investment?



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,419 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    what is the current BER?

    Whats the current HLI?

    What is the airtightness number?

    What do you mean by a worthwhile investment?

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,113 ✭✭✭✭Gael23


    Only figure I know is BER C3 though windows will need replacing before long.

    what I mean by worthwhile is would the cost of upgrades just be massive and cancel out any saving



  • Registered Users Posts: 27 therookiefal


    hello, we have a joule installed/samsung heat pump that has been in around 12 months. Of course on christmas day something has gone wrong and we have changed nothing on the settings. The downstairs temp is around 21 degrees, upstairs in 19. But the radiators are not kicking in at all. I can hear the little click on the thermostat that the temp in the room is around 17 degrees. looking atet e heat pump/water tank under the stairs, everything seems to be ok and no major/obvious faults. Anyone have any tips how you can reset it? The hot water/showers bath are working fine, so it is not a problem with the heating part, but no warmth is going to rads. I have been onto Joule but they are currently closed. Any tips I would try?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2 Wisini


    I recently purchased a 1950's semi-d that is need of complete renovation. I am planning on updating the heating system and I am wondering if a heat pump is the right option.

    The house: Currently G energy rated with an ancient oil powered boiler. There is some insulation in the attic and double-glazed windows throughout. It is need of updated plumbing, electrical, exterior insulation, and new floors on ground level.

    My first instinct was to go with air to water, but I am afraid my house will not be suitable without replacing all the windows and making the home air tight. Is it worth doing? My next thought would be electric heat system with solar panels. I am completely new to this so any advice would be greatly appreciated!



  • Registered Users Posts: 388 ✭✭Biker1


    You need to take the fabric first approach to this. Get your insulation and airtightness to a good standard. If you are doing external insulation and the budget permits then install new windows at the same time. Once the fabric is dealt with properly then any heating system will be relatively cheap to run. Forget about electric heating with solar pv. Not enough daylight hours during the heating season to provide the power.



  • Subscribers Posts: 41,590 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    Agreed with biker above.

    Use the seai standard of a 2.0 or better HLI value.

    You will need to get a BER Assessor on board to run the figures to find out exactly what you need to do to the fabric to get it up to standard.



  • Registered Users Posts: 317 ✭✭Spook80


    Hi all,

    Hope this is in the right section. I have a Nibe F730, house is just over 2 years old. There’s a spanner on the display and when i click into it says “The airflow sensor BS1 has not been calibrated”.

    I rang the company who installed it and they’re saying to ignore it as its a software issue. They haven’t been great to be honest and have been back several times for leaks in the house so am not really happy to trust the software issue excuse and am worried it could cause future issues.

    I also noticed lately the pump running for a second about every 15 minutes at night time, not sure about other times during the day. Ive checked for obvious leaky taps, toilet etc.

    Basically just wondering if anyone knows what this error is and if it can be serious?

    Also can these be serviced by plumbers or is it specialised heating engineer i need to get?

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,024 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    Have you tried to update the software? I have a Nibe but not the same model as you and never had your issue. I update it when I notice on their website that one is available. Download on PC and then USB into the heat pump.

    The Nibe website will give a log of the items that are being fixed or added so might be worth checking this to see if any of the issues are mentioned.



  • Registered Users Posts: 317 ✭✭Spook80


    Thanks for the reply. No I actually haven’t tried that but will have a look. I never thought of the USB way as i never knew how id connect it to the internet but good idea.

    I think ill need to get someone out soon anyway as am more concerned with the pump running so much. Just need to figure out who to get.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,024 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    Even if it is connected to the network you have to do the updates with the USB I think. Definitely worth a try as it wont cost you anything.

    There is a German forum about heat pumps, cant remember the name. But often you will find a lot of answers on there using Google translate



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  • Registered Users Posts: 317 ✭✭Spook80


    Yep I’ll definitely try that thanks for the help



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