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A pint for whoever can answer!

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  • 04-12-2008 5:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭


    Now that I've got your attention......

    So I posted here a few weeks back looking for help with my 1998 mazda 323, having a key with a broken transponder but no one replied :eek:

    I have changed my angle of attack.

    Can anyone help me with ANY of the following:

    1. How can you access behind the centre console of the car? (to get at the immob.) because if I can get it out I know a guy who can reprogramme it.

    2. How can I bypass the immobiliser?

    And to be honest I need to get this car started either today or tomorrow, any advice?

    In thanks for reading, here's a funny car-related joke:

    Bill Gates wanted to look good and impress everyone with his success. He decided to measure the accomplishments of Microsoft against General Motors. The comparison went like this: If automotive technology had kept pace with computer technology over the past few decades, you would now be driving a V-32 instead of a V-8, and it would have a top speed of 10,000 miles per hour. Or you could have an economy car that weighs 30 pounds and gets a thousand miles to a gallon of gas. In either case the sticker price of a new car would be less than $50. In response to all this goading, GM responds: "Yes, but would you really want to drive a car that crashes twice a day?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    Could he not come to the car to re-program it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭BJC


    No, he's in Wexford and I'm in D15, so it's my job to remove the immob and send it to him. But the cars been sitting up for three weeks now so I'd just as soon try and bypass it. Anything to get it going.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 645 ✭✭✭kazul


    Is it a 323 saloon or a 323f?
    In any case they should be roughly similar. I used to have a 96 323f and have taken off the console.
    You have start right at the back of the console, i.e. behind the armrest, and work forward.
    There are a couple of tricky screws and clips, you have to remove handbrake surround, gear knob, gearshift gaiter etc.
    I always found www.club323f.com a great resource. You'd want to set aside an afternoon for stripping and re-assembly.
    Hope this helps.


  • Registered Users Posts: 210 ✭✭chops1990


    chances are if he knows how to re-program it, he knows how to get to it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,097 ✭✭✭Darragh29


    Would the right solution here not be to get a new key and the dealer would program the new key to handshake with the current immobiliser configuration? It's not the immobiliser that is your problem here OP, it's the transponder in the key.

    Cheaper isn't always best in these situations... My experience as a mechanic usually is that when you depart from the most straightforward way of resolving these type of problems and start going down inventive/creative avenues to avoid unavoidable costs, you usually end up learning that the best way of resolving the problem was the original straightforward way that you originally avoided!

    There are times when you have to use your head and create a plan B because you are out of options, but I don't think this scenario above is one of those situations...

    My best advice, get a new key...


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 645 ✭✭✭kazul


    Hmmm, D15? You could ask a neighbour to help bypass it :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,366 ✭✭✭ninty9er


    kazul wrote: »
    Hmmm, D15? You could ask a neighbour to help bypass it :rolleyes:

    Now, Now!!
    :D:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭BJC


    chops1990 wrote: »
    chances are if he knows how to re-program it, he knows how to get to it

    Well, he knows it's behind the centre console or high above the pedals, I can more or less say it's not behind the pedals after extensive searching and a very sore neck.

    kazul wrote: »
    Is it a 323 saloon or a 323f?
    In any case they should be roughly similar. I used to have a 96 323f and have taken off the console.
    You have start right at the back of the console, i.e. behind the armrest, and work forward.
    There are a couple of tricky screws and clips, you have to remove handbrake surround, gear knob, gearshift gaiter etc.
    I always found www.club323f.com a great resource. You'd want to set aside an afternoon for stripping and re-assembly.
    Hope this helps.

    It's not a 323f unfortunatley, much nicer car, it's the fairly rare 323 lx hatchback. not too many of them around.
    But that'sgood advice, thanks kazul.


  • Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭BJC


    Darragh29 wrote: »
    Would the right solution here not be to get a new key and the dealer would program the new key to handshake with the current immobiliser configuration? It's not the immobiliser that is your problem here OP, it's the transponder in the key.

    Cheaper isn't always best in these situations... My experience as a mechanic usually is that when you depart from the most straightforward way of resolving these type of problems and start going down inventive/creative avenues to avoid unavoidable costs, you usually end up learning that the best way of resolving the problem was the original straightforward way that you originally avoided!

    There are times when you have to use your head and create a plan B because you are out of options, but I don't think this scenario above is one of those situations...

    My best advice, get a new key...

    To be totally honest, the car isn't worth putting 500 squids into it and thats what I've been quoted.
    Anyone know how to bypass the immobiliser? because at this stage I'd do that too if it got the car moving asap.


  • Moderators Posts: 12,375 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    So is it your key fob thats busted? I got a new key fob for my Civic off ebay, googled how to program it, and hey presto, a new keyfob for myself.

    After a quick google for programming a mazda 323 fob I cant see anything really. But they generally have a sequence thats standard.
    A combo of opening doors, turning the key in the ignition from I to II etc.
    I found one for a Mazda 3, it might work... worth a try at least. (providing your fob isnt FUBAR)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 510 ✭✭✭biggus


    Try Steveguard he's a genius and beside you 087 2554848


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,679 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    I use a mobile locksmith for problems like this.Citywide Locksmiths.Dessie 086-2661853

    He can usually reprogram most cars on the side of the road.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,658 ✭✭✭old boy


    in some cases disconecting the battery for a hour works, (with my merc anyway)


  • Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭BJC


    So is it your key fob thats busted? I got a new key fob for my Civic off ebay, googled how to program it, and hey presto, a new keyfob for myself.

    After a quick google for programming a mazda 323 fob I cant see anything really. But they generally have a sequence thats standard.
    A combo of opening doors, turning the key in the ignition from I to II etc.
    I found one for a Mazda 3, it might work... worth a try at least. (providing your fob isnt FUBAR)

    It's the transponder chip in the key.
    There's no alarm or anything on my car, just the immobiliser. I have heard about reprogramming it yourself with a certain sequence but haven't been able to find anything that aplies to my car, can you PM me the Mazda 3 sequence you found please?


  • Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭BJC


    old boy wrote: »
    in some cases disconecting the battery for a hour works, (with my merc anyway)

    Yeah, my brother drives a merc and advised me to do this, didn't work though. Thanks for the help though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 731 ✭✭✭BJC


    Bumpity - bump


  • Moderators Posts: 12,375 ✭✭✭✭Black_Knight


    Hey, totally forgot about this. Didnt get any email updates either. Ill PM you now. Hopefully its some help


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