Tips Section

clivej

Did this to my Kidd/Ruger 10/22.

I never did like the single action screw and I could move the barrel/action sideways as there was play at the back of the action after many years of use.


I got someone to turn down a plumbing gas fitting to make the pillar and set it in the stock with Devcon 10110.




I re-tapped the single action screw thread out to 6mm and used a 6mm allen key head screw




Drilled a 6mm hole in the back of the action. Small hole first to transfer the hole location to the stock.




Then drilled a 4mm hole in the stock where the transfered mark was and fitted a 4mm allen head screw in it.
I had to grind down the allen head to a tight fit 6mm to go into the 6mm action hole.









Well its rock solid in the action now. I'll get out and see did the groups tighten up any at the weekend.

clivej

Here is how I was able to mount a video Camcorder to my scope. The rifle is a Sako 75 .308. And the Camcorder is a Panasonic SDR-S70 with x78 optical zoom. and records to an SD card.

I don't need to say too much. Only that the 2 picatinny mounts/rings only use the lower half and they get screwed to a small plate. This plate is then fixed to the Camcorder, through a 1/4" hole, with the usual Camera tripod mount thumb screw.

I haven't use it yet as I didn't get a shot off but I'll upload a video ASAP.

I put a small bit of a credit card under the back of the Camcorder to drop the the lens just a little. Now the center of the scope and the Camcorder line up, well out to 300m anyway.


Got this Picatinny scope rail mount from Dealextreme.com @$7, they are available in both 1" and 30mm mounts.

clivej

Home security with an IP Webcam Just thought I'd share this security with you all.

From this boards.ie thread. Read replies and more info here.
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=83078400#post83078400

I was just looking through the new Argos catalogue and seen the Foscam one @€;95 ish . Spend hours then yesterday looking at Youtube vids and reviews. Then checked it out online, and ordered the cheap clone one @€;49 inc P&P from 'LightInTheBox.com' as shown below at but only at this price today.
.
It connects to your home wired or wireless network where you can control and view the output on a iPhone (any 3G phone) or connected laptop or PC.

Got the app for my iPhone and one for my PC so just to wait for it to come. Got an e-mail to say it was already sent out yesterday.

It will send you an alert and photo when it detects motion via e-mail so you always have a record. Set the iPhone to 'Fetch' the mail and you get an instant alert of motion in the house.


OR use as a baby monitor to view the baby is safe. It can also receive and send audio.

review here
http://ip-camera-review.toptenreview...am-review.html




Setup Youtube vid

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnmPV-wRNdY

Downwind

This is a great trick have used it and its good.

Downwind

The only down side to this is you might have to keep a coupe of dead crows in the freezer hidden from the kitchen commander . Means that you have a coupe of real crow decoys all the time . Have to admit this guy is clever.

clivej

A few photo's of a CZ 452 .22lr that I pillar bedded a couple of years ago. A custom stock from I don't know where. Wish I never sold that rifle.



Bed the pillar first and let the Devcon 10110 go hard first before bedding the action.
Use shoe polish on the action to stop the Devcon adhering to the action, polish the action up to a shine.









And a Timmey trigger fitted

long range shooter

Bryan Litz gives a good explanation on scope tracking and error.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12Wf0Cuwwi8

Cass

Laser Boresighters are NOT a tool designed to get you on the bull from the off, but a tool to get you onto paper.

The laser is a "line of sight" device. Meaning it shines a light in a straight line. No bullet travels like that so it can never zero the rifle for you. What it can do is help you see where the bore of the barrel is pointing, to a certain degree of accuracy, and then you can asdjust the scope to match the laser's dot. Once on paper you can fine tune the POI by adjusting after each shot.

For the price it's not worth it unless you are zeroing on a regular basis. A look down the bore will do the same job for free. The most any zeroing of a rifle should take is 3 shots, perhaps up to 5.

Here is what i do. This brings you from mounting the scope to zeroing.

Start at 50 yds. Check Rail/bases are securely fixed to receiver. Place scope onto receiver/rail/bases. Check for eye relief. Place the top piece of the rings back on and loosely screw down. Do not tighten yet. Once again check your eye relief. Use either spirit levels or the piece of string method to line up the crosshairs on your scope (or whatever works for you). Without moving the scope tighten down all screws. Tighten two screws at a time in opposite sides so as to bring the top of the ring down squarely. Now your scope is back on and ready to be sighted in.

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the minutes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you look down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.



Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles) can be seen sitting perfectly central in the "ring" made by the muzzle.




Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.

Of course you could always go for a bore sighter/ laser guide and cut out half the crap i just wrote. Whatever works for you. If you find when firing at the 50 or 100yd targets that the rifle cannot keep a group or still will not hit paper then i'm afraid it may be a bit more serious than just needing to be rezeroed. At all stages keep checking screws and making sure all items are tight.

Hope this is of some help.

clivej

Ruger 10/22 Another Pillor bedding and action rear hold down.
Re-threaded the action screw 6mm.
Made up a pillor from a plumbers brass gas fitting (turned down to 20mm)
Used Devcon 10110 (10112 is the euro code) £30 500gr pot in the UK
Used the flat type wood bit, 20mm wide, to fit the pillor and drilled out the hole to 11mm (or a little bigger)
Drilled out the back of the action for cleaning and then to take the rear hold down screw
Rear hold down screw is a 5mm hex head bolt put in a drill, held against a grinder and then tapper the head to fit the rear action hole
Use a cleaning rod down the barrel to make a mark on the stock for the rear action screw, then drill out for the 5mm tappered screw
Use a thin coating of clear shoe polish to stop the Devcon sticking to any parts
Mask off the action with masking tape and use the polish on it








Pillor made from plumbers gas fitting