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Wiring burnt in main cooker switch

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  • 12-01-2009 9:26pm
    #1
    Kashkai
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,399 ✭✭✭


    For the past few weeks, I've noticed that the cooker switch had a bit of a "rubbery" feeling to it when turning it on and off, i.e. it didn't have a clean click when I pressed it. This evening, when the missus pressed the switch to turn on the cooker, nothing happened. So hero here was called in to save the day (and the dinner). As I had replaced a broken cooker switch in our last house, I thought it would be no problem.

    However, when I took the cover plate off, I noticed that the top neutral wire was burnt, i.e. the wires were black and the insulation melted. On closer inspection the receptacle for this wire was also burnt. I then noticed that one of the live wires had slipped out of its receptacle although I'm fairly sure that they didn't touch as they are at opposite sides of the switch, i.e. top and bottom.

    Now before I replace the switch, are there any thoughts on why the neutral wire burnt? The house is a new build about 18 months old but the sparks was not the best, i.e. sloppy. I've had to take off sockets and switches and reinsert wires that had come loose as they weren't screwed in properly by the sparks. The wires in the attic are also all over the place, so I'm not confident in his work. Will I be safe enough replacing the cooker switch with a new one or is there a deeper problem?


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    #2
    10-10-20
    Registered Users Posts: 7,159 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    You've answered your own question!
    The fault is very likely to be down to the wires not being secured sufficiently by the grub screw.
    It's going to have to be the cause if you saw it elsewhere.


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    #3
    fishdog
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    are there any thoughts on why the neutral wire burnt?

    The switch has a high resistance connection. With a current passing through this it causes heat. The best thing to do is replace the switch. The best switch IMHO is an MK one. They cost a bit more but they will not burn out.

    The neutral wire will have the same current flowing in it as the live.


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    #4
    fishdog
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    Sorry 10 10 20 we posted at the same time.

    This:
    I've noticed that the cooker switch had a bit of a "rubbery" feeling to it
    makes me think that the switch has failed.

    But as 10 10 20 correctly said:
    The fault is very likely to be down to the wires not being secured sufficiently by the grub screw.
    Tight connections are also very important and loose connections can also cause this.


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    #5
    Kashkai
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,399 ✭✭✭Kashkai


    Thanks a lot for the advice guys. So if I just trim off the burnt wires and insulation and fit the new cooker switch, I'll be the wife's hero again? (as opposed to lazy good for nuthin.......)


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    #6
    fishdog
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭fishdog


    So if I just trim off the burnt wires and insulation and fit the new cooker switch, I'll be the wife's hero again?
    Yes. Ensure all connections are tight, all strands go into the connection and none of them are nicked.

    Oh yeah, turn off the power:D


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    #7
    2qk4u
    Registered Users Posts: 1,163 ✭✭✭2qk4u


    I had this problem a couple of weeks ago, I did as it says above and all is good.... Wife thinks Im a feicin diy expert now...


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    #8
    Kashkai
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,399 ✭✭✭Kashkai


    You have my sympathies mate cause once a wife thinks you can do one job fairly competently, then you're in trouble as she'll be lining up the jobs for you.

    With regard to my own situation, I installed the new switch and its working fine with 2 exceptions:

    1, The cooker seems to have a delay in switching on, i.e. flip the main switch on the wall (that I've just replaced) and then it takes a second or so until the cooker's clock starts flashing. I'm sure it was almost instantaneous with the last switch. Cooker works fine though.

    2. The LED on the switch that tells you if the power is on, stays on regardless of whether the switch is in the on or off position. However, the power to the cooker goes off when the switch is set to off. There was nothing in the switch itself to connect the LED to anything.

    Finally, when I was putting the screws back in to the plate, they stopped the switch from working (I'm positive they weren't touching any wires). When I unscrewed them, the switch worked again. They were long screws and I think they were touching the back plate and causing a short. When I replaced them with shorter ones, the switch worked fine.


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    #9
    Mr Magnolia
    Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,435 Mod ✭✭✭✭Mr Magnolia


    Prosperous Dave wrote: »
    You have my sympathies mate cause once a wife thinks you can do one job fairly competently, then you're in trouble as she'll be lining up the jobs for you.

    With regard to my own situation, I installed the new switch and its working fine with 2 exceptions:

    1, The cooker seems to have a delay in switching on, i.e. flip the main switch on the wall (that I've just replaced) and then it takes a second or so until the cooker's clock starts flashing. I'm sure it was almost instantaneous with the last switch. Cooker works fine though.

    Don't think the new switch would be causing this, it was most likely like this before the switch and you didn't notice, obviously can't be sure though.
    2. The LED on the switch that tells you if the power is on, stays on regardless of whether the switch is in the on or off position. However, the power to the cooker goes off when the switch is set to off. There was nothing in the switch itself to connect the LED to anything.

    If the LED is 'on' no matter what position the switch is in then the LED is wired across the mains incoming intsead of the 'load' side. I'd say you have wired your cable to the cooker into the mains terminals on the switch and the power from the boord into the 'load' side, have a look - it still functions fine but should be the other way around. Alternatively, the LED cables (you'll see them if you open the switch) are just wired into the 'mains' side of the switch they should be on the 'load side'. Easy to fix too, make sure the power is off at the mains though.
    Finally, when I was putting the screws back in to the plate, they stopped the switch from working (I'm positive they weren't touching any wires). When I unscrewed them, the switch worked again. They were long screws and I think they were touching the back plate and causing a short. When I replaced them with shorter ones, the switch worked fine.

    Sounds like the long screws may have warped the switch causing the contacts to stay open no matter what the switch position, if you've shortened the screws or replaced them then no damage should have been done.


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    #10
    10-10-20
    Registered Users Posts: 7,159 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Prosperous Dave wrote: »
    You have my sympathies mate cause once a wife thinks you can do one job fairly competently, then you're in trouble as she'll be lining up the jobs for you.

    With regard to my own situation, I installed the new switch and its working fine with 2 exceptions:

    1, The cooker seems to have a delay in switching on, i.e. flip the main switch on the wall (that I've just replaced) and then it takes a second or so until the cooker's clock starts flashing. I'm sure it was almost instantaneous with the last switch. Cooker works fine though.
    That's what happens on my cooker also. The power supply for the control module usually takes a second or two to stabilise, so this is likely to be the cause.
    2. The LED on the switch that tells you if the power is on, stays on regardless of whether the switch is in the on or off position. However, the power to the cooker goes off when the switch is set to off. There was nothing in the switch itself to connect the LED to anything.
    Working as designed!
    Finally, when I was putting the screws back in to the plate, they stopped the switch from working (I'm positive they weren't touching any wires). When I unscrewed them, the switch worked again. They were long screws and I think they were touching the back plate and causing a short. When I replaced them with shorter ones, the switch worked fine.
    Sounds like the screws were stressing the switch itself causing the rocker to jam.
    Shorter screws are better, but if you are any way unsure about the switch, have it replaced or have the install checked over... (standard guidelines...)


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