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Can this radiator be fixed (Needs bleeding)

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  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes is the answer ... It can be repaired. There are Several ways.. but this is the way I do it

    Most hardware plumbing stores will sell you a replacement bleed plug. you'll need one of these. Also you need to get yourself a set of easyouts.
    Easyouts work by a method that as you rotate them anticlockwise they bite and help unscrew broken bolts etc
    see pic.

    Easyout.jpg

    Isolate & remove the radiator. You will need something to catch the water in the rad.

    Find the centre of the plug and drill a smal hole through the center making sure not to drill out the back of the rad. Also the hole size must be no more than 2 thirds the diameter of the plug. Insert the appropriate easyout and rotate anti clockwise as if removing a bolt use a good bit of downward pressure to get the easyout to bite.

    Then simply continue unscrewing until the old plug is out.

    Insert the new plug, Refit your rad and have a bleeding nice day


  • Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭bigmoma22


    Finally got the key and tried bleeding. 3 rads, one got air out two nothing. I did not want to open the valve too much, so the one that I did bleed I opened about a full turn, closed after hissing stopped, was no water leaking. Other two opened about 3 full turns and no water nor hissing so I closed it. All three were colder on top and warm on bottom. Haven't tried putting heating on yet. Water in rads was cold when I didi this. Also hot press seems to have a leak... but only on outside of the house... Help... help... help...
    you seem to know about these things... thank you so much


  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    The fact that the rads are cold on top and warm on bottom is a sure sign of an air lock, and that the rads need to be bled.

    Turn heating on and open all valves at the rads. this way the pump is circulating water throughout the house, rads, cylinder etc. and is also pressurising the system. This pressure is nescesary to get the air out of the rads.

    Find a rad that is cold on top and using your key bleed the air out. Remember dont remove the plug just rotate it till you hear the air escaping (hissing) approx 2 turns. When the air has fully escaped a trickle of water will start to flow, at this point tighten the plug back up again.

    Repeat this for each rad.

    The leak outside the hotpress is more than likely an overflow pipe. which is there to allow excess water in the heating system escape to a safe place rather than into your house. Check this to be sure. It should be an open ended pipe approx 1/2" in diam usually at the back or side wall of the house.

    Once the system settles down after the air locks have been sorted this may well stop the over flow problem also but it may take a day or two.

    best of luck and let us know how you get on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭bigmoma22


    This sounds like the real thing to do!!! Thanks a bunch. I hate myself for not posting sooner. Thank you, I will let you know what happenes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭bigmoma22


    will try opening all valves, had three closed as we're not using those rooms. Just another question, any idea where i should look to check pressure in the system. Have found pumps, nothing showing pressure there. Could it be outside near the tank? Or near hotpress? Thanks, I really appreciate your input and time.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    There may or may not be a pressure gauge on your system with a domestic system I doubt it. The pumps are rated according to the volume of liquid that they are required to pump and also the height that they have to deliver to and this determines the pressure rating of your system. This is a fairly straight forward calculation and would have been done when the equipment was first installed so don't worry yourself about it.

    With this in mind and the fact that the pump is running the system will become pressurised. So using this pressure to your benefit the air will be forced out of the system once you create an escape route for it. I.E. loosening the bleed plug via the rad key.


  • Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭bigmoma22


    Thanks for help,
    got the plumber finally. As I mebtioned I haven't got a clue about any of these (sigh) so I looked at the pressure gauge and saw a hand at 1 bar, well guess what: it was the wrong one, pressure was on 0 hence couldn't really bleed properly. Plumber fixed it in 10 mins, including inspecting the leak. So great to have a nice and warm house!!! And thanks again for your help.
    davymoore wrote: »
    There may or may not be a pressure gauge on your system with a domestic system I doubt it. The pumps are rated according to the volume of liquid that they are required to pump and also the height that they have to deliver to and this determines the pressure rating of your system. This is a fairly straight forward calculation and would have been done when the equipment was first installed so don't worry yourself about it.

    With this in mind and the fact that the pump is running the system will become pressurised. So using this pressure to your benefit the air will be forced out of the system once you create an escape route for it. I.E. loosening the bleed plug via the rad key.


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