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The Ultimate Irish Hunting Knife

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,701 ✭✭✭Offy


    davymoore wrote: »
    Ive managed to track down some of this Japanese (Suminagashi) laminated steel.

    It is basically several layers of steel sandwiched together and comprises of

    33 layers in total

    15 layers stainless steel
    1 layer nickel
    The Core steel is powder met SG2
    1 layer nickel
    15 layers stainless steel.



    003.jpg

    What do you think of this as an option ?

    I like the sound of that, the nickel around the core will add strength to it and allow it to hold an edge for longer. The stainless protects the knife from corrosion, I really like the sound of that combination Davy.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 423 ✭✭triskell


    Absolutely an option, for me anyway,beautiful I cant comment on the steel strength or quality, But I like the look of layered steel


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,354 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    having no expierence of layered steel,

    from what layer is the actual tip


  • Subscribers Posts: 4,076 ✭✭✭IRLConor


    New poll is up now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    Mellor wrote: »
    having no expierence of layered steel,

    from what layer is the actual tip

    The Core Steel is the actual tip


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  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    Ok so thanks again to Conor


    We are voting on Blade grind

    Choices are
    convex.gifflat.gifhollow.gif


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭lordarpad


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    davymoore wrote: »
    Ive managed to track down some of this Japanese (Suminagashi) laminated steel.

    It is basically several layers of steel sandwiched together and comprises of

    33 layers in total

    15 layers stainless steel
    1 layer nickel
    The Core steel is powder met SG2
    1 layer nickel
    15 layers stainless steel.



    003.jpg

    What do you think of this as an option ?

    lovely and way further upmarket than I expected. If this is affordable I'd love to.


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭lordarpad


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    davymoore wrote: »
    I understand your requirments regarding the knife but I'll point out once more that we are designing a knife for the general hunting population. Some of whom will probably be camping, chopping bone or sinew etc. so this has to be taken into account also.

    Davy

    point taken


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,701 ✭✭✭Offy


    Mellor wrote: »
    having no expierence of layered steel,

    from what layer is the actual tip

    I might be wrong Mellor but I suspect that the core is made first and then covered with Nickel and lastly covered with Stainless Steel. When the blade is ground the outer layers of Stainless and Nickel are removed by the grinder on the cutting edge leaving the core exposed. The edge will then be the softer core, easy to sharpen and not brittle so impact will not shatter the blade. The core is reinforced/supported by Nickel which is used to strengthen steel as it is harder than steel and lastly the Stainless protects the metal from rust/corrosion.
    I never worked with layered steel so anyone feel free to correct what Ive just said, its based on working with steel NOT layered steel.
    This layered steel is interesting. Earlier in this post I suggested plating the blade to increase certain material characteristic which would promote the life of the metal. I know very little about knife construction BUT I have being working steel for two decades now. The idea of layered steel is what I was talking about without knowing I was actually talking about it. I believe this is the way to proceed if you want a good quality blade that will hold an edge and not rust easily. Only the cutting edge risks rust but sharpening would remove any corrosion that might accumulate due to time/lack of use. Layered steel get my vote :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    What that man said ... except .. the core is actually the hardest steel so hard in fact (Rockwell 65) that it is brittle and the outer layers protect it.

    Oh and as for price

    Flat bar stock ... 38mm x 4mm is €12.00/25mm length

    multiply that by 10 for enough to make a blade & handle .... well it's fine for this one off project but I don't expect I'll be getting very many orders but who knows :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    The more I look at this steel the more I like it. Although it's japanese it reminds me of the Burren and the Sea

    003.jpg


    burren_sea.jpg

    Definitely got that Ancient, Irish, Celtic feel to it.

    Anyone else ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    How this layered, laminated, sandwich steel is made

    suminagashi.gif


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,023 ✭✭✭✭Grizzly 45


    Sedimentry limestone...layered steel.Why not!
    Roughly 130 euros for the steel blank.Starting a custom piece price now.:D

    "If you want to keep someone away from your house, Just fire the shotgun through the door."

    Vice President [and former lawyer] Joe Biden Field& Stream Magazine interview Feb 2013 "



  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭lordarpad


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    davymoore wrote: »
    The more I look at this steel the more I like it. Although it's japanese it reminds me of the Burren and the Sea

    003.jpg


    burren_sea.jpg

    Definitely got that Ancient, Irish, Celtic feel to it.

    Anyone else ?

    +1

    I'd actually suggest you create a family out of that :)

    and 120 € for a knife like that? That might sell reasonably well, especially if you market it as "oirish" to the 'merkins ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    Its €120 just for the steel,
    Never mind handle material, fixtures & fittings, leather, grinding belts and my time it would end up fairly high


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭lordarpad


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    davymoore wrote: »
    Its €120 just for the steel,
    Never mind handle material, fixtures & fittings, leather, grinding belts and my time it would end up fairly high

    sorry, misread your post. Yes, I see your point. Would Helle supply their plain 3 layer steel maybe and thus give a more affordable solution?


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,354 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    First of all, i know i'm jumping ahead, and sorry for that. The reason is i'll be away for the next while and I might not be here where the handle discussion comes up.

    The Handle
    Most of us will have seen the sterotypical irish walking stick;
    255px-Shillelagh_weapon.jpg

    It's called a shillelagh.
    Some of you may or may not be aware that the shillelagh was originally a weapon. A hand held combat weapon 2 to 4 foot long, which is completely irish in image.

    Methods of Shillelagh fighting have evolved over a period of thousands of years, from the spear, staff, axe and sword fighting of the Irish. There is some evidence which suggests that the use of Irish stick weapons may have evolved in a progression from a reliance on long spears and wattles, to shorter spears and wattles, to the shillelagh, alpeen, blackthorn (walking-stick) and short cudgel. By the 19th century Irish Shillelagh-fighting had evolved into a practice which involved the use of three basic types of weapons, sticks which were long, medium or short in length.[1]


    Apparently, when british assume control in ireland, the practice of carrying shillelaghs was outlawed. Which lead to a adaption to walking sticks (a more uniform length obviously)

    Now where is this relevant to a knive or knive handle. Well the wood used and treatment is unique to shillelaghs and to ireland. Normally, blacktorn (a narrow notty hardwood) branches were used to make the shillelagh. A suitable branch was chosen and smeared with butter lodged up the chimney and left there to cure, thus giving the familar black glossy look. In my opinion, this would make an excellent looking handle, and the fact that the black gloss is only applied to the surface, would mean that sanding or marking the handle would result in a paler wood below showing, and a design could easily be included.


    Thoughts
    (and sorry again for jumping ahead)


  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    You're not jumping ahead you're thinking out loud :D

    and I like the idea


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭lordarpad


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    +1

    I'd just like to add holly as a secound thought of what one might consider. does anybody have an image of what holly looks like?


  • Registered Users Posts: 737 ✭✭✭sfakiaman


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    lordarpad wrote: »
    +1

    I'd just like to add holly as a secound thought of what one might consider. does anybody have an image of what holly looks like?

    Holly is a very plain white wood, going pale brown with age. I don't think it would be suitable for this application. Of the native woods I would probably choose yew as its very close grained, hard and has good colour and grain pattern. I would be happy to contribute some if Davy wants to experiment.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 39,354 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    lordarpad wrote: »
    +1

    I'd just like to add holly as a secound thought of what one might consider. does anybody have an image of what holly looks like?
    I originally suggest holly as I mixed up holly and blackthorn as the shillelagh wood. After thinking about it holly is a bit plain. For reference, blackthorn is also known as a Sloe bush


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    Continuing with Mellors forward thinking. :D

    Native Irish woods with some character, colour and figure, that would be good candidates for our project would be, Chestnut, Cherry, Elm (Leamhán sléibhe - Wych Elm - Ulmus glabra), Irish Oak and Gunstock quality Walnut.
    The light coloured woods, Ash, Blackthorn, Birch, Hawthorn, Holly ,Whitebeam (Sorbus hibernica), Willows , Yew etc. can be enhanced with aniline dyes or some other processes.

    All of the native species that can be harvested with the root ball intact or with a sufficiently large burl will usually produce some outstanding wood. They would need to be air dried and preferably, stabilised.

    Onward.;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,023 ✭✭✭✭Grizzly 45


    Elm,would be good as well as it is pretty tough dense grained wood.However finding some might be a problem as it is being massacred by the Dutch Elm disease in Ireland.

    "If you want to keep someone away from your house, Just fire the shotgun through the door."

    Vice President [and former lawyer] Joe Biden Field& Stream Magazine interview Feb 2013 "



  • Registered Users Posts: 563 ✭✭✭davymoore


    Yes, Sat 22nd only
    Nice going on woods guys and I do agree that a native timber would be preferable also might think about antler aswell.

    I have a contact to ge the timber stabelised (I can never spell that) and the proccess usually takes about 10 days for me as I send my pieces o England.

    Getting back to the Steel for a moment do you want to go with the Suminagashi or should we look for a more cost effective alternative ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 380 ✭✭lordarpad


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    davymoore wrote: »
    Getting back to the Steel for a moment do you want to go with the Suminagashi or should we look for a more cost effective alternative ?

    can we make that an 'and' ? The Suminagashi is gorgeous and your thoughts about the Burren are well taken. I'd like to see 3-layered (stainless - carbon - stainless) sandwich steel as an affordable alternative so you get some more sales, while having the Suminagashi available.

    What do ye think?

    As regards handle, I have never been a friend of antler, but a pretty root knot of a native timber would be nice. And I like the thought of Whych Elm - proper magickal ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 423 ✭✭triskell


    davymoore wrote: »
    Nice going on woods guys and I do agree that a native timber would be preferable also might think about antler aswell.

    I have a contact to ge the timber stabelised (I can never spell that) and the proccess usually takes about 10 days for me as I send my pieces o England.

    Getting back to the Steel for a moment do you want to go with the Suminagashi or should we look for a more cost effective alternative ?

    As far as I'm concerned the japanese steel is the way to go, the others won't have the same character and will probaly look cheap


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,701 ✭✭✭Offy


    I like the native timber idea. Very Irish.

    Three layers of steel would be more than enough IMO


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,684 ✭✭✭macadam


    Yes, Sun 23rd only
    japanese steel seems the job, and definitely agree with the native wood may tipped with a piece of horn or antler.

    Heres one I have its a bushcrafter from Gary Mills wood handle tipped with buffalo horn.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,795 ✭✭✭fish slapped


    I'm with Mellor on the Shillelagh idea and cheers for the info.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭Double Barrel


    Maybe, I don't know yet.
    A very nice flitch of English Elm:

    3347474410_3a2be3e82c.jpg

    Large photo:

    http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3598/3347474410_3a2be3e82c_b.jpg

    A few knives with elm burr handle scales:

    damascus-knife-pics-001.jpg
    Knife05.jpg


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