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Post pics of your watches ***Please NO QUOTING PHOTOS***
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With the onset(ish) of summer, decided to get off the metal and leather. Added two natos for the LLD and a nice Zulu for my Steinhart Aviation, which i'll post when I get a pic. Pretty happy with the lot, except maybe the beige is a wee bit darker than I'd hoped on one of the natos....
Also got a free travel springbar removal tool, which was grand!
Yes, pics are atrocious - sorry!
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Wouldn't be a brand I'd even think of looking at (price of them asideOh that's bloody nice C. Cartier don't get nearly enough attention or kudos in the watch world in my humble.
)
Love the screws in the strap and face...very nice touchSig edited so not to "offend" genocide apologists
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYOZ3IzRaf4
https://www.btselem.org/
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Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,170 Mod ✭✭✭✭
Join Date:Posts: 59098
French Yema Superman from the 80's.
The French "submariner" as it were. First came out in the early 60's with a quirky bezel lock held fast by the screw down crown. If you're buying one make sure it has that clamp as it's often lost over time and are a nightmare to source and expensive with it(100 quid just for the clamp kinda thing). For its depth rating it's far less bulky than say others of a similar rating. Very thick acrylic crystal though.
Yema were around from just after the second world war, many of their watches were cheap and cheerful and often wonderfully quirky in only the way French design can be, but they had some standouts like the Superman, Skindiver and various chronographs aimed at yachting, rallying and the like. They even had a "space watch" in the form of the analogue digital Spationaute which went up in the shuttle with a couple of French astronauts back in the 80's. Here's a current ebay listing for a NOS one. OK not pocket money, but for a NOS "space watch" with all the trimmings including the original manuals and blue "space" strap not bad in my humble.
Like LIP, Mortima and other French marques the quartz/digital period hit them hard, though unlike the Swiss the French did try to compete on the digital front. By the mid 80's Yema were in trouble and had some outside investment, at one point from Seiko(which is the period mine hails from. The early ones have a blue tint to the bezel rather than black), but faded away by the 90's.
Yema, like LIP are back in a small way and their main heritage model is a near millimetre perfect reissue of the above. Only in mechanical/automatic and using an in house designed movement to boot, which is impressive at that price point.
Vintage ones used to be dirt cheap, but interest grew a few years back and the 60/70's examples can regularly go for well over the 1000 mark, 80's mechanicals around the 6-800 mark, even the quartz(which had better movements than the mechanicals) are around the 500 quid mark.
One thing always interested me was how they were able to copyright and register the trademark "Superman" back in the 60's. I presume because the comic character publishers hadn't nailed down the rights in France? From very early on they had either © and/or (r) beside the name on the dial, which is something you don't tend to see on watch dial names.
Mine has tritium lume, but isn't marked down as such. The French seemed to have different laws around that. It must be a strong mix, because with the dial out of the case it gets a fair reaction from a radiation detector(Tritium is way safer than radium as it's not a gamma emitter so the nasty stuff gets stopped by the crystal and case). The phosphors are pretty unreactive to light, but in complete blackness you can just make out the very faintest of glows. Though tritium has a half life of 12 something years, it means half of it is still there at 12 years, so there's some left active even after longer.Rejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.
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Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 60,170 Mod ✭✭✭✭ Join Date:Posts: 59098
Me the other day concerning my 1916 Longines...
So, I figured what the hell, no time like the present.Including "lume" I sourced in a arts and crafts shop back in the nineties and very inexpertly globbed on, cos I knew even less back then.
One of these days I'm gonna redo it right.
First, off with the hands and remove the old gloopy toy shop "lume" from the dial and hands. Horrid stuff actually and was dug in like a tick.
:eek: The enamel dial wasn't so much an issue, as little will stick to that material, so just gently work at it with a toothpick and it came off. The hands were a nightmare. The usual gently mechanical pressure came to nought, so broke out the last resort for this kinda thing; acetone. Caveat acetone will dissolve things like lume, but it also breeds rust like crazy, so straight after the dip in it that loosened the lume, right into a bath of WD40 to neutralise it and to drive out any damp. The stuff is OK in my experience with blued hands, but they're real blued hands not paint. It'll strip paint like a bugger so beware. Given what I'm working with is over a century old I was bricking it TBH. But it worked.
Anyway old glop gone, new lume made up with a hint of a tint(s) to mimic the colour of what the original radium would have looked like when new(the original radium nasty stuff was removed in the 90's via an ultrasonic clean).
It's slightly darker than in the pic. To paint the dial I used a brush just like the painters did originally(QV Radium Girls). So being somewhat rough and ready is OK with these. Later the lume was "printed" on and far more precisely. Ever time I do this I'm reminded of how so many got sick and died from doing this with radium and I feel a great respect for the skills of those women. It took me an hour taking it handy, they'd do a dial in minutes or less. I used a tiny brush. More hairs on the top of Sean Connery's head. In the past I've used watch oilers and toothpicks to do hands, but have found a tiny brush more controllable myself. Go with thin "coats", about the consistency of milk and surface tension will fill the spaces. It gets easy with practice TBH. I usually give two or three very thin passes on it allowing 15 minutes between "coats". Ditto for the dial. The more thin coats the better, but be careful not to overload the hands or they'll foul each other as they pass every hour.
First coat after a couple of seconds of exposure to the evening "sunlight".
Next hands back on.
Checking to make sure everything lines up on each of the hours and don't foul each other or the seconds hand. Looking OK and with the knobbly texture of the original hand painted numbers.
All back together and after a charge from the last dregs of the setting daylight...
Now I'm crap at taking lume shots and it's a tad shaky, but that's using an older iPhone and after 15 minutes in the dark. :eek: Glows like a mofo and is so far easily legible after an hour(it even illuminates the dust on the crystal). The lume I got years ago from someone who had Seiko lume as part of a dealer closing down sale or some such. Apparently it's the best lume and in my experience it is.
Took over twenty years and the abuse it has suffered at my hands, but I finally sorted my fave oul thing. Daft I know, but I'm well chuffed and all aglow myself now. Rejoice in the awareness of feeling stupid, for that’s how you end up learning new things. If you’re not aware you’re stupid, you probably are.
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Me the other day concerning my 1916 Longines...So, I figured what the hell, no time like the present.
First, off with the hands and remove the old gloopy toy shop "lume" from the dial and hands. Horrid stuff actually and was dug in like a tick.:eek: The enamel dial wasn't so much an issue, as little will stick to that material, so just gently work at it with a toothpick and it came off. The hands were a nightmare. The usual gently mechanical pressure came to nought, so broke out the last resort for this kinda thing; acetone. Caveat acetone will dissolve things like lume, but it also breeds rust like crazy, so straight after the dip in it that loosened the lume, right into a bath of WD40 to neutralise it and to drive out any damp. The stuff is OK in my experience with blued hands, but they're real blued hands not paint. It'll strip paint like a bugger so beware. Given what I'm working with is over a century old I was bricking it TBH. But it worked.
Anyway old glop gone, new lume made up with a hint of a tint(s) to mimic the colour of what the original radium would have looked like when new(the original radium nasty stuff was removed in the 90's via an ultrasonic clean).
It's slightly darker than in the pic. To paint the dial I used a brush just like the painters did originally(QV Radium Girls). So being somewhat rough and ready is OK with these. Later the lume was "printed" on and far more precisely. Ever time I do this I'm reminded of how so many got sick and died from doing this with radium and I feel a great respect for the skills of those women. It took me an hour taking it handy, they'd do a dial in minutes or less. I used a tiny brush. More hairs on the top of Sean Connery's head. In the past I've used watch oilers and toothpicks to do hands, but have found a tiny brush more controllable myself. Go with thin "coats", about the consistency of milk and surface tension will fill the spaces. It gets easy with practice TBH. I usually give two or three very thin passes on it allowing 15 minutes between "coats". Ditto for the dial. The more thin coats the better, but be careful not to overload the hands or they'll foul each other as they pass every hour.
Next hands back on.
I'll take it off your hands if you dont like it. !The narrower a man’s mind, the broader his statements.
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Should that not be 1000ft for (300m)? -It's hardly 3000 metres with another zero hidden behind the hands there...??
Surprised with that myself. There's another zero there. Definitely safe to wear in the shower! Not normally a fan of Breitlings as I find most too busy but I like this one.
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Chauffe, Marcel, chauffe!Join Date:Posts: 64469
Sure the Deepsea is 3,900m
And didn't Cameron have a Rolex on the outside of his submarine at the bottom of the Mariana trench (about 11,000m deep) and it was fine?My ads on adverts.ie
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I've been wearing this one a lot lately. It's a Casio M640 I got in from Japan. It has a Casio tough solar movement. It radio syncs to atomic time, has a dot matrix display for functions such as timer stop watch, world time etc.
I only used the timer today in order to ring someone back in 20 minutes:-)
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Just a quick shot.. 5 months waiting.. it's beautiful.. condition to my eye is pristine.. need a link added.. they came with it.. did someone say any Omega authorized dealer should do for free? I was going to add myself but figure it's worth maybe in this case getting a pro to do it..
'll more pictures later.
Thanks,
Mick0 -
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awful picture though the lighting in my office is terrible.. ill get some nicer later or tomorrow in natural light.. just want to head to the jewelery store right away to get resized but better stick around another hour or so 0
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Finally! Looks the part!
Get comfortable with changing links and get a few NATO’s and a nice omega rubber and depoyant and it’s a one watch solution!
That’s the 39mm one right? Lugs are 19mm which is a pain to be honest and cuts choice a lot.
i know right - talk about torture waiting for it!
So re straps I did ask at the Omega Boutique (who sized for free) about a deployant and strap... they quoted me about 500 dollars for a aligator blue strap and deployant.. they didnt seem to know much about the compatibility with a rubber one..
i have ordered a 19mm leather from martu in the mean time.
This one
The colour doesnt look a match but i have one of their brown straps on my Stowa and they are great. I went for 19mm tapered to 18mm and ive ordered a 18mm omega buckle for it from ebay.. hopefully it will look ok..
in terms of the rubber strap and deployant - have you any recommended supplier?
Sorry for all the pics but i can't help myself...
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