Shooting Football Masterclass

Paulw

Just in case anyone was interested - Canon Master Class.

Well worth checking out.

jackdaw

Wow !! interesting !! but some expensive equipment !!!

2x ID MK III bodies
1x 5D
1x 70-200 f2.8 L IS
1x 400 f2.8IS L
1x 135 F2 L
1x 24-70 f2.8L

Paulw

True. Some nice gear.

Mind you, most shooting games (even starting off) would have two bodies, a 300mm, 70-200mm and something wider (24-70mm, 17-40mm or 16-35mm).

One of these days I might go for the 135mm, but can't see myself being able to afford a 400mm f/2.8 for a while.

jackdaw

Paulw wrote: »

True. Some nice gear.

Mind you, most shooting games (even starting off) would have two bodies, a 300mm, 70-200mm and something wider (24-70mm, 17-40mm or 16-35mm).

One of these days I might go for the 135mm, but can't see myself being able to afford a 400mm f/2.8 for a while.

Yes the 400mm f2.8 is a beast ...


im just gonna go 'cheap' and get the 100-400 f4-5.6L

Paulw

jackdaw wrote: »

Yes the 400mm f2.8 is a beast ...


im just gonna go 'cheap' and get the 100-400 f4-5.6L

I have the 100-400mm but find it just too slow for sport, unless you've brilliant light (useless for floodlights).

When I win the lotto I'll get the 400mm lens.

soccerc

It was interesting class ok, most of whch many of the sports snappers here are already doing.

My kit is Nikon that I brong to all games is:
2 x D3 bodies
D200
300mm 2.8
80-200 2.8
24-70 2.8
14-24 2.8.

The latter is used, where suitable on the D200 with the 14-24 mounted on a tabletoop tripod behind the goal and fired remotely by Pocket wizards.

jackdaw

Paulw wrote: »

I have the 100-400mm but find it just too slow for sport, unless you've brilliant light (useless for floodlights).

When I win the lotto I'll get the 400mm lens.

yeah of course !!

but for wildlife it should be ok ... they say it's one of the best Zoo lenses...

kensutz

Hoping to get the 400mm soon if things work out. I brought 2 people with me to shoot a football match and they said it's really hard to do. I always bring 3 bodies with me to games, sometimes 4-5 bodies "just in case".

soccerc

kensutz wrote: »

I brought 2 people with me to shoot a football match and they said it's really hard to do...

...despite them thinking it was going to be a piece of p*ss no doubt.

I've done that too and none of those who tagged along have ever shot a game since.

njburke

I'm at the other end of the scale. My eldest plays under 9 soccer, I've been shooting the games over the past few months. The ambition was to try and get an action shot of each of the lads wearing the jersey, head up and ball at his feet. Not as easy as I thought.
They might not win the league but I'ld hoped to give them each a print at the end of the season. They're bombarded with images of soccer, Match Attack cards ,each has their favorite player, heros that they idolize.

Now as I see it, each of the kids can look as good as their heros even its its only for 1/500th click. Last week, I saw one boy score from a bicycle kick from 15 metres out, he was on the other team and of course I hadn't the camera to my eye at the time.
They're an expressive bunch so the Hi 5's when they score, and the head in hands when they don't also make for good shots, even the parents get animated.

My gear is basic stuff, a D70s, I did go through three cheaper lenses to find one that performs reasonably well, 70-300 ED is to slow to focus, the 55-200 isn't to bad, but I bought an old 70-210D and I've been very pleased with that.

NJ

soccerc

njburke wrote: »

I'm at the other end of the scale. My eldest plays under 9 soccer, I've been shooting the games over the past few months.

NJ

Can I make a suggestion that may help.

I don't know where you are shooting from but for the small sided game forget the sideline and go behind the goalline midway between goal and corner flag.

It will give you a better chance of getting full on images.

I would also suggest you get as low as possible and a fold up fishermans tripod chair is ideal.

Good luck

njburke

Cheers, I've been trying different positions and tend to follow the flow of the game. I'll try staying put in that spot on saturday, might be able to use the 18-70 lens I have.

I picked up on the height differential recently, especially when they come in close to the sideline, I've been getting down on one knee, I'll keep an eye out for a stool.

Any tips on focus? Thats where I see to be failing.
I've kinda settle on AF-C using only the centre sensor.

Heres a sample, Shane scores once again.

Borderfox

njburke wrote: »

I'm at the other end of the scale. My eldest plays under 9 soccer, I've been shooting the games over the past few months. The ambition was to try and get an action shot of each of the lads wearing the jersey, head up and ball at his feet. Not as easy as I thought.
They might not win the league but I'ld hoped to give them each a print at the end of the season. They're bombarded with images of soccer, Match Attack cards ,each has their favorite player, heros that they idolize.

Now as I see it, each of the kids can look as good as their heros even its its only for 1/500th click. Last week, I saw one boy score from a bicycle kick from 15 metres out, he was on the other team and of course I hadn't the camera to my eye at the time.
They're an expressive bunch so the Hi 5's when they score, and the head in hands when they don't also make for good shots, even the parents get animated.

My gear is basic stuff, a D70s, I did go through three cheaper lenses to find one that performs reasonably well, 70-300 ED is to slow to focus, the 55-200 isn't to bad, but I bought an old 70-210D and I've been very pleased with that.

NJ

It would be easier to set up a portable studio and shoot the kids and use this as the main shot with some action one on the side.

Borderfox

Just to add Soccer/GAA/Hurling are a piece of p**s to shoot!! (runs for cover)

Paulw

njburke wrote: »

Cheers, I've been trying different positions and tend to follow the flow of the game. I'll try staying put in that spot on saturday, might be able to use the 18-70 lens I have.

I picked up on the height differential recently, especially when they come in close to the sideline, I've been getting down on one knee, I'll keep an eye out for a stool.

Any tips on focus? Thats where I see to be failing.
I've kinda settle on AF-C using only the centre sensor.

Getting down lower will certainly help you. You want to be at eye level, or lower, if possible.

With local football that I shoot, I tend to wander a bit along the sideline. I get very different types of shots from those I'd get at an LOI game, where I'd sit near the corner flag. If you want comparisons, feel free to check my website.

As for focus, I don't use Nikon, but centre only focus sensor should give you the best focus. You should also set the focus mode to AI Servo.

Other than that, practice, practice, practice. Shoot in short bursts (2-3 frames) and try to anticipate the action point.

njburke

Yep, That too had crossed my mind, as I have a PS template to make some thing similar to a match attak card. A set of their own cards would probably go down well.
I tried staging a shot, but even then theres the jersey issue, as you see the U9 lads playing for sallins celtic have no hands:D.

soccerc

njburke wrote: »

Any tips on focus? Thats where I see to be failing.
I've kinda settle on AF-C using only the centre sensor.

Heres a sample, Shane scores once again.

Nothing wrong with your focus method.

As for lens, if the light is good then the kit 55-200 is ok for the small sided game but lacking in a liitle depth of field as its f4-5.6.

The above shot is too busy, too many distractions from both fore and back ground.

You were obviously in a standing position and looking down on the action.

Don't be disheartened, we've all started at the same point and only by practise and seeking C&C did we improve and learn

soccerc

Borderfox wrote: »

It would be easier to set up a portable studio and shoot the kids and use this as the main shot with some action one on the side.

Excellent suggestion Keith.

Here is an example of static player headshots.

Just put something on the ground where you want them to stand and shoot them all one after another so all images look similar.

Paulw

Yeah, I did all the Sporting Fingal portraits last week, all 20 players. A quick shoot, but worked out fine. Nice having a grass hill as the background to the images.

soccerc

Paulw wrote: »

Yeah, I did all the Sporting Fingal portraits last week, all 20 players. A quick shoot, but worked out fine. Nice having a grass hill as the background to the images.

Nice background instead of our stand but that's the way they've always done it and that's the way they wanted it!

I was asked to do the SF shoot but couldn't do it as had another gig

njburke

Heres one where I was kneeling as the ball comes in from a corner.


Shane scores with a header.

Borderfox

Would be better if you did it on a plain background that is easy to select and replace

whyulittle

soccerc wrote: »

Here is an example of static player headshots.

I think you ended up setting that set as private?

By the way, I've been printing off 6X4's of our (League of Ireland side) pre-season games and opening League game, and putting them up in our bar recently. A bunch of them have gone missing, with one of them bringing their pic home, "for their wife".

So I'm sure the kids will love to get their pics.

soccerc

whyulittle wrote: »

I think you ended up setting that set as private?

Oops, forgot about that and for a very good reason too.

I've changed the permissions to contacts only

LeoB

Has your club a website? My local G.A.A club of which I am P.R.O has a web site with a few thousand pics on it. We get loads of hits and if kids see their image they can buy them for nominal fee just to cover the paper and inks. The kids love it and so do our adult players. If you had a flickr you could add photos every few weeks and your club could let kids buy some also. Agree with PaulW practice, practice and more practice

workaccount

njburke wrote: »

Heres one where I was kneeling as the ball comes in from a corner.


Shane scores with a header.

These look much better but if you had a shallow depth of field on the first one or something. There's still too much going on.

The second would be much cooler if it was taken from the other side of the goal obviously. I'm not sure what's in focus on this one. Maybe it's just Shane's hair.

Just my opinion. I'm only a beginner myself.

njburke

leoB> No the club hasn't a website, the Kildare Distract Schoolboy league has a small section on the Kildare County FC page. I'll send in a few pics when the league ends. I'll probably just hand out a couple of prints to each of the boys along with a CD that they can browse through.

WorkAccount> I agree with your comments, I see whats wrong with them.
There are plenty of good sports examples regularly posted here by the lads who've developed the skills needed for action photos.
I'm sure Shane will still be pleased when I hand him the print of his goal.

I'm trying to get better at it bit by bit, I didn't think it would be such a challenge and if I wasn't so stubborn I'ld have given up.

Focus is something I've had trouble with, the viewfinder is very busy with a lot going on, I'll get the player I want in focus, then another player will run in between me and my subject, I of course will still have my finger on half press and the lens will focus on the near player. The near player will move off the sensor area, my wanted player will reappear, I'll release the shutter and bingo I've got one more picture for the bin. As a beginner I'ld do that no matter what lens and camera I have.

I'm trying learn to lift my finger of the release to stop the focus servo loop running so focus remains on my wanted player and then wait for the player I don't want to move off.

In single servo mode, my camera can be made beep when it locks on peak focus, in continuous servo theres no beep. It would be nice if the camera played an audible tone that changes pitch with focus, anyone know of camera that does that.There is that tiny teeny weeny dot in the bottom left that comes on when the senor is in peak focus, its fine for static subjects when you got time to look for it. The old screwdriven 70-210D lens I use is good and noisy which gives some feed back.