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Help with Bowens Esprit 500 light

  • 26-03-2009 5:04pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,653 ✭✭✭


    I have a set of these lights. One light triggers the other. I want to use both lights at the same time in different setups, with two sync cables. I therefore want to stop each light triggering the other. No mention of how to do this in the manual.

    Anyone any ideas?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    If there's no button to control the flash sync, a few layers of black electrical tape over some cardboard over the little sensor (I think it has an image of an eye over it).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,653 ✭✭✭m_stan


    Just called DML - the supplier of these. Apparently I just need to turn off the 'Cell' switch on the back of the lights to stop them triggering each other, and fork our 28 EUR 'plus the vat' for a second sync cable.

    sorted :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 544 ✭✭✭SBPhoto


    If you are using a digital camera be wary of using sync cables, check that the voltage resistance, if you get a feed back they can blow the sensor if the voltage is high. I am not sure of the ratings but it is well documented about using sync cables with digital cameras. It happened with me on a 1DsMKII, Costly repair on the sensor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,653 ✭✭✭m_stan


    SBPhoto wrote: »
    If you are using a digital camera be wary of using sync cables, check that the voltage resistance, if you get a feed back they can blow the sensor if the voltage is high. I am not sure of the ratings but it is well documented about using sync cables with digital cameras. It happened with me on a 1DsMKII, Costly repair on the sensor.


    mmm I am using digital. How do I test for this strange phenomenon ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,503 ✭✭✭smelltheglove


    Be very interested in finding out about blowing the sensor. I am using an interfit stellar 300 with a sync, lately it hasnt been flashing every time I shoot, I hope it is nothing to do with this.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭stcstc


    those lights are modern flash heads, and work at a very safe sync voltage


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 544 ✭✭✭SBPhoto


    Could not locate the original post on this issue but have a read here.
    I was using Bowens 500 esprit when it happened to me

    http://photo.net/digital-camera-forum/005vkw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,262 ✭✭✭stcstc


    well if your in any doubt about your lights are not safe for your camera you can buy an opto isolator (safe sync) they costt about 40 euros


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,764 ✭✭✭Valentia


    Interesting. I have an old Bowens that I rarely use and didn't know about this risk. Thanks gang.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,393 ✭✭✭AnCatDubh


    m_stan wrote: »
    I have a set of these lights. One light triggers the other. I want to use both lights at the same time in different setups, with two sync cables. I therefore want to stop each light triggering the other. No mention of how to do this in the manual.

    Anyone any ideas?

    Sorry if this is a silly suggestion but does plugging in a sync cable not cancel the sensor based triggering of the unit?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    I think they mean the actual camera sensor.

    Tbh, I reckon it'd fry the whole camera, not just the sensor!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    I think they mean the actual camera sensor.

    Tbh, I reckon it'd fry the whole camera, not just the sensor!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,503 ✭✭✭smelltheglove


    stcstc wrote: »
    well if your in any doubt about your lights are not safe for your camera you can buy an opto isolator (safe sync) they costt about 40 euros

    ah why didnt i see this earlier, i placed a big order with photomart. Steve do you know where to get these locally? my nerves are gone now....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    Gunn's/Conn's should have them in stock.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,503 ✭✭✭smelltheglove


    thanks, will defo make it a priority to get around to one of them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,624 ✭✭✭✭Fajitas!


    If it's the heads not firing, chances are it's a connection problem rather than this happening, still, no harm to get a hotshoe mount you can easily attach electrical tape to to get a tight connection.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,503 ✭✭✭smelltheglove


    yeah I have a hot shoe also, still doesnt fire every time though. Cant figure it out at all. Kinda a kick up the arse when you get the perfect shot but the light didnt work! Especially with kids as you only get their attention for so long.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,459 ✭✭✭Dodgykeeper


    I have this kit aswell and find its the connection into the camera that causes the problem, give the cable a bit of a squeeze at the camera end and it should tighten up the connections.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,503 ✭✭✭smelltheglove


    Well I used a brand new cable today, found 3 newbies lying around in the shop whilst doin a spring clean, and after the light failed on me in my first session of the day I decided to retire it, cant depend on it, so put up my old strobe light, its a chapy light but does whats needed every time I need it too.

    Probablly should still get the thingy steve was talking about.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,046 ✭✭✭democrates


    Radio is another answer, and a bit safer than opto because an opto-isolator can short like any unit if it gets wet.

    EOS spec for the accessory shoe trigger is 6v max, not always specified for the pc, so you could conceivably argue about the warranty coverage in that case.

    While you may 'get away' with higher trigger voltages that may be a temporary illusion. The trigger isolation circuit may not then be isolating excess voltage fully, or it may be gradually breaking down until the day it finally capitulates and full trigger voltage now coarses through the body and lens circuits.

    At the point where voltage has broken the dam, it's the amount of current the flash units sync circuit supplies that will determine the extent to which body and lens are fried and nowhere have I seen flash trigger current specified, but on old strobes it's likely to be colossal compared to what sophisticated electronics can handle, your poor circuits could be like a frog drinking from a fire hose. Even if it's a surface mount capacitor in your lenses af servo controller with an original wholesale price of 2c, diagnosis and repair if possible won't come cheap even if such a service can be found.

    Anyway, Bowens Esprit Gemini 125, 200, 250, and 500 units specify 5v sync voltage so should be aok with the EOS system.


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