Classic army G36K problems and upgrade

Toasty113

So Ive had my CA36K for a few months and Ive shot about thirty to forty thousand rounds out of it. And recently it stoped firing and started making a sort of grinding noise (kind of like stepping on a cats tail). Also the air nozzle is locked forward and the cylinder is locked back. This leads me to believe that the middle gear is worn, though I have not opened it up so I cant be 100% sure.

Can anyone help with this problem, external links or general advice? And since Im going into my gear box, how should i go about any other upgrades, mainly durability and ROF, and where to get the parts. And also whats the deal with high speed gear sets? Thanks in advance!

Note: No cat was harmed in the making of this thread

Masada

It sounds like you have stripped a gear alright, I would recommend replacing all the gears as apposed to just the one. the CA gears are pretty soft and strip pretty easily so its best to install a new set.

as for stripping the gun, its pretty easy to do the G36. you remove the magwell pin, then the allen key in the space where the stock folds, then pop off the magwell and disconnect the wiring. using your finger, pull the hopup forward towards the muzzle of the gun and away from the gearbox. then just lift the gearbox out of the upper receiver from the air nozzle end first, then out from the back.

when you have this part out, theres a small pin just about where the trigger is located. push that pin out. you will have to press the little button above the trigger in order to release it. then look under the pistol grip and take out the large philips screw in the center, dont remove the other 2 small ones. now put the gun in semi auto (this bit is important) and pull the gearbox up from the lower receiver. you will see the fire selector lever and how it links with the selector plate on the side of the gearbox it will only come out if the gun is in semi.

Once you have the gearbox out, theres a plate on the right side of it that holds in the safety mechanism. their are 2 screws on this and you only need to remove the one on the right. remove the 2 motor screws and the other 3 holding the gearbox closed. theres also a strap on the top edge of the gearbox that you have to slide off. once everything is removed and its ready to open, get a long thin screwdriver or something similar and slightly pry open the gearbox at the back end first, when its open enough insert the screwdriver in through the spring guide and go in as far as you can, by doing this you can hold the spring in place while you remove the top casing on the gearbox. once the top is off you can carefully remove the spring and then inspect the gears. your gearbox will likely be a 6m shell but it is possible it could be a 7mm.

To improve the ROF you can fit some bearing bushings in the correct size depending on the gearbox shell. make sure to shim the gears correctly and the gearbox will run better and smoother.
if you want you can also fit a higher speed motor. some good ones are the systema turbo and the G&P M120. both perform about equally but the G&P is a lot cheaper. you'll pick one of them up for about 25ish on ehobbyasia.

hope that helps.

Toasty113

Thanks Masada, Ive just opened the gearbox but it seems the gears and all the other parts are perfect. I couldnt see a problem, so I closed it up and gave it a small test. Same result, piston and nozzle lock in their respective back and forward positions.

Toasty113

Figuired it out. Motoer was loose and wasnt engaging the gears. Plus the gearbox is still in great condition as far as I can tell.

Anyone know what troubles I might face with a 9.6V large type battery (I have the custom stock so it fitting aint an issue)

And is it possible to put a silencer on a G36K?