Oh no! how do I hide cut joints in drywall?!

minmax89

It seems I've learnt something else the hard way! Ah well, best lessons learnt an all that...

rebuilding a small bedroom in my 1900 cottage in wicklow, we took the walls back to the slate/brick walls and began drylining. Batten framing went up, insulation went in and then boarded up without really thinking of two major things that would have made my current part of the job MUCH easier.

The joints and and the amount of them.

To try and make use of all the plasterboard I not only have more joints than I'd like really and thought it wouldn't matter whether they'd be butt (self-cut) joints or tapered factory ones. Oh how I was wrong!

So, I'm now in a room (2m x 3m) that is all boarded with lots of joints that I need to hide.

I was originally going to have a go at plastering myself. I know this is risky (but I'm still willing to give it a go) and to give me the best start I should at least have perfect walls right?

Can anyone advise me on how best to fill and hide these joints in the plasterboard? I've the sticky joint tape to start with but that's it.

Any advice is welcome and I'm open to any idea's about any way to get to the best (as in smoothest) final finish (even if it means I have to paper the wall).


Thanks in advance you good people!

Adam

CaptainSkidmark

dont paper it anyway. it will still look rough. get someone to plaster it or tape and joint it.

sydthebeat

sand the joints before taping them.....

C Eng

I always prefer to see house walls skimmed. If you feel up to it and its not a big room worth trying to skim it yourself. Dry lining can be very un-forgiving if not done correctly and to be honest looks better on commercial property usually on metal framed studs.

PirateShampoo

Id plaster it if was you mate, you'd be suprised how cheap you can get a half decent plasterer for at the momment.

minmax89

sydthebeat wrote: »

sand the joints before taping them.....

I thought about this. So I'd sand through the lining paper to the actual plaster to give enough of a recess to accommodate the tape? Thus in theory, it'd sit flush and not have that tell-tale bump.
Am I right in also saying that then I fill the joints flush and I'd not have to plaster the walls? just paint them?

The other option I suppose then is to fill the joints as best I can (they will abviously protrude a stand out) but then have a plasterer skim the walls and ceiling and hide the bumps at the same time.

I got a quote for a plasterer doing three walls (one is tongue & groove panelled) and the ceiling of this 2m X 3m room for €450. I'm sure this is worth it but I can't afford it and was hoping to find a cheaper option.

stevoman

i spent a few years in america working doing metal framing and drywalling (sheetrocking). My advise to you now is if you have loads of joints that are not meeting on the taper end and you cant just tape and compound over i would get a plasterer in to skim those walls for you. it will cost, but now to much as you can get a plasterer for next to nothing now and it will look a lot better in the longrun. taping and compounding over will only ever really work if have are using the taper ends and you have a good taping man at that!

hope this info helps.

sydthebeat

minmax89 wrote: »

I thought about this. So I'd sand through the lining paper to the actual plaster to give enough of a recess to accommodate the tape? Thus in theory, it'd sit flush and not have that tell-tale bump.
Am I right in also saying that then I fill the joints flush and I'd not have to plaster the walls? just paint them?

The other option I suppose then is to fill the joints as best I can (they will abviously protrude a stand out) but then have a plasterer skim the walls and ceiling and hide the bumps at the same time.

I got a quote for a plasterer doing three walls (one is tongue & groove panelled) and the ceiling of this 2m X 3m room for €450. I'm sure this is worth it but I can't afford it and was hoping to find a cheaper option.

in the usual taping and jointing system the tape is laid over the bevelled joint, filled and sanded before painting.

in your situation i would suggest creating this bevelled joint prior to taping, but also i would seriously suggest applying a skim finish. as said above tape and jointing may be ok in a commercial / industrial application,but in a domestic situation a proper skim finish is best.

PirateShampoo

minmax89 wrote: »

I thought about this. So I'd sand through the lining paper to the actual plaster to give enough of a recess to accommodate the tape? Thus in theory, it'd sit flush and not have that tell-tale bump.
Am I right in also saying that then I fill the joints flush and I'd not have to plaster the walls? just paint them?

The other option I suppose then is to fill the joints as best I can (they will abviously protrude a stand out) but then have a plasterer skim the walls and ceiling and hide the bumps at the same time.

I got a quote for a plasterer doing three walls (one is tongue & groove panelled) and the ceiling of this 2m X 3m room for €450. I'm sure this is worth it but I can't afford it and was hoping to find a cheaper option.

No u put the paper tape on first with the Sheet Rock joint filler, put enough filler on so it sits proud over the to narrower edges on the joints,

Let it dry and shrink, then sand it back level.

Repeat with more filler if needed.

Its easier to show someone that it is to write.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0bEkObf6Ds

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGN-L12EsDg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iEIdWEMQ6Y

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=&search_query=how+to+tape+and+joint+drywall&aq=f

minmax89

Ha! That Pronto joint tape ad is funny! That tape looks good and of course I'd be able to use that on any proper tapered joints but with my butt joints, it looks like I'll have to take the advice from the previous video tutuorials from drywallinfo.com. I think I'll be using the info on this site to do all my raised butt joints, and for the rest and then see where we're at then.

I think it's paramount that I get the following tools:

Mud pan
4 an half inch knife
10 inch knife
joint compound (the best user friendly type I think!)
paper tape (not the perferated, which I already have!:()

Can anone advise the best place to get these? Woodies, Chadwicks, etc.? Most concerned that I get the right tape and compound.

I will then think about having a go at skimming the lot myself. I gotta start somewhere and this is a small spare bedroom. If I can get the hang of skimming here, I'd be made up as I can start doing the more important rooms then.

I got myself a good plasterers trowel. Can anyone recommend a skimcoat plaster suitable for a beginers stage?

I did use that 'ready-to-roll' skimcoat plaster on the drywall in the bathroom! Would prefer to start using the real stuff now though.

Many thanks for all your good advice guys!

Adam

CJhaughey

The best ready mix compond is called Gyproc Profin Semi-lite, comes in a white 20l bucket with blue text.
It is by far the best I have used, the stuff you mix yourself is not great if you don't have a proper mixer and the skill to mix it to the right consistency.
A foam hawk and a 10" trowel and a 6" spatula should be all you need to do it right.
Take your time and make sure if you are taping non tapered edges to feather the joint over a wider area.
Ebay shops sell special sandpaper for plaster it is abrasive on mesh and allows the dust to fall away with out clogging the abrasive.

minmax89

CJhaughey wrote: »

The best ready mix compond is called Gyproc Profin Semi-lite, comes in a white 20l bucket with blue text.

Just to confirm, you're refering to the joint compound and not the skim, right?

Thanks a million as I was certainly looking for a ready mix compound. It's enough of a task to get the application right without adding getting the mix consistency right. I have a good quality hawk and a 10 trowel. Just need to get the 6" spatula now. Shouldn't it be 5 an quarter inch though so it'll fit inside the recess of tapered joints or does it need to just overlap?


Do you know of any ready mix skim coat plaster too that I can use when I have to skim the lot?

CJhaughey

Yes thats the joint compound.
I don't know of any ready mix skim, I taped and jointed everything.:)

minmax89

Okay. thanks a mill anyway.