Roof without Soffet and Fascia

Toastie

Hi.
I was wondering if anyone has experience in building a roof that is flush with the walls. I want to eliminate or at least reduce the amount of soffet and fascia (the only soffets/fascia I like are exensive so I'd rather do without). How do I do this and avoid having water running off the roof and onto the wall leaving streaks?

Poor Uncle Tom

Use parapets with hidden gutters.

sinnerboy

or just gutters overhanging

sydthebeat

be very careful to get your ventilation detailing correct....

this is possible, but needs specific consideration...

liam300tm

the large tile producers have edge finishing pieces for this look, take a look at their catalogs. they also include inline ventilation for soffit.

sydthebeat

http://www.capco.ie/products/Ventilation_&_Ridge_Tiles.pdf

for example

gman2k

@ OP
1. Is your house timber framed of conc. block?
2. I'm presuming that you don't want a raised parapet along the gable - that's what you mean by flush????
If you house is timber frame, then the flush option is not suitable, due to contraction/ shrinkage of the timber frame.
The raised parapet is do-able with timber frame, with careful detailing.
More info please!

liam300tm

I am going timber frame, and am having flush gables with no barges, why are you concerned for this deta used with timber f.??

ill be using a dry edge system for finishing the tiling at the gabels, this eliminates the "old school" mortar pointing up to the soffit, and any chance of plaster cracking of resultind movement in the T.F.

sydthebeat

dry verge fixings on a flush barge will look terrible.... you will still see a 75 -100mm black line on the verge.....


clean mortar pointing is the proper method with a slate roof.... i dont think a flush barge with a tile finish will look good whatever way you do it...

liam300tm

clean mortar pointing is an old easy cheap method and unless done very well will allow water under the last tile or slate.

personally ill be eliminating that chance by using a tried and tested dry verge system.

A black 75mm slip is a small price to pay for peace of mind. ill be calling it a feature of the gable anyway!!!

sydthebeat

liam300tm wrote: »

clean mortar pointing is an old easy cheap method and unless done very well will allow water under the last tile or slate.

personally ill be eliminating that chance by using a tried and tested dry verge system.

A black 75mm slip is a small price to pay for peace of mind. ill be calling it a feature of the gable anyway!!!

no it shouldnt if the battens and felt is carried out under as it should be.

a Timber frame cavity needs to be vented, so not only will you have a 75mm black slip, you will have pin hole drill vents up the gable as well...

wont exactly constitute a traditional vernacular flush gable....

liam300tm

<p>T.F wall vents are tiny and won't pose an astethic problem,</p>

and the stepped dry v. system is far superior when using a flush gable detail, it may not be historicly correct but its better than a damp wall!!

Toastie

Loads of info here. Thanks. Looks like I can do anything as long as it is planned properly.

I am building a concrete block house with natural slate finish. I want to plaster all the way to the roof, esp. on the gable to eliminate a fascia. I won't be putting in a paraet. I know there will be a slight overhang.
On the front and rear all I want to see is wall, roof and gutter.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

liam300tm

best of luck,

gman2k

liam300tm wrote: »

I am going timber frame, and am having flush gables with no barges, why are you concerned for this deta used with timber f.??

Because the timber frame will contract - your tiles/ slates are attached to same.

You are oversailing the tiles/ slates onto the outer leaf - conc block plastered or brick etc. to be a flush finish.

The outerleaf will not contract to match the TF shrinkage

What happens to the resulting dimension difference between contraction and non contraction? - It will no longer be flush, and you may have damaged finishes/ slates etc.
Damage may take a couple of years to show up.

liam300tm

your missing the crucial point, the need to point or plaster up to the underside of the last slate or tile is eliminated by using a dry verge system, hence no bond between walls and roof covering.