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Disconnecting Old Oil Tank

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  • 16-05-2009 6:49pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭


    th_DSC00094.jpg

    Hi folks, I'm a keen DIY but getting on in yrs now. I am getting a new oil tank but first I wanted to disonnect and remove the old one first so that I can level the site for the new tank.

    Which is the best joint to break the connection at?

    The shut off valve looks very corroded but works smoothly enuf, should I replace it anyway?

    Can the old bottle filter be re-used or should I replace it.

    Finally if i was to get a new tank and fit it myself, how would I dispose of the old tank and the few litres of kerosene that will be left.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,171 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Hi Danjo.
    Age isn't a disability as long as you retain the will to try. :)

    Break the connection just after the bottle-filter when the valve is in it's closed position. This will prevent any remaing sludge from escaping and it will also give you better levelage when working on the joints.
    You may as well dump the old valve and filter. I would be afraid that they would leak after being moved to the new tank.
    You should pick up replacements easily enough. Just ensure that you match the diameter of the pipes before hand - I would just be worried that you could be mixing imperial & metric connections if the piping is old.

    You should enquire as to who will collect the old tank as it could be considered hazardious waste due to the liquid and vapours. The sludge may have to be seperated and could be disposed of in a waste-oil collection facility. Of course don't dump it down a drain.

    Have fun!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    Thanks a mill for that advice, 10:10:20, I really appreciate it. *thumbs up*


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,171 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Let us know how it goes...!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,381 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    What's the old tank made from? It looks like plastic, if so it should be fairly easy to cut up....

    I emptied & cut up an old steel oil tank with a cheap jig saw a few years back. When emptying i used an old car jack under one end of the tank to get the remaining oil up to the outlet. I only needed to cut a few of the welds then broke the remaining ones.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    @10:10:20, will let you know not doing it immediately but soon.


    @DD Its plastic allright, cutting it up, now thats an idea, as I have a jigsaw and then bung it in the bin I suppose. I assume there is no risk of fire, it being empty.

    The council will take it away for €32 but I still have to drag it round to the front of the house for collection. Food for thought. :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,381 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Drain Nearly all the oil out of it ( you may need to tilt). Also when almost empty, you could just drill a hole in the bottom at the lowest point and put a basin under it.

    Its not like petrol, the vapours would not be flammable. I would take the top off it first with the jig saw. Then take the sides off.


  • Registered Users Posts: 135 ✭✭Arddon


    out of interest danjo-xx how much is a new tank??
    was thinking of doing likewise...
    cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    Arddon wrote: »
    out of interest danjo-xx how much is a new tank??
    was thinking of doing likewise...
    cheers

    varies quite a bit depending on make & size. Carbury seem to be the only ones that make one slim enuf to fit through my side gate, (W 26", or 670mm) but it is nearly 1200L which suits me fine. Harlequinn tanks (Heatmerchants) are suppose to be very reasonable, some links below,

    Carbery Oil Tanks

    Titan Ireland

    Harlequin Oil tanks

    Check the guarantee, most give 10yrs but a local place here Swan Plastics only gives 5yrs on their product but they are cheaper.


    The Carbury one is around 360:390 retail , while I was quoted over the phone a price of 250 for a Harlequin 1400L but that could be a trade price I was quoted but I'm not sure.
    Heatmerchants can quote you for both Harlequin & Titan tanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    Drain Nearly all the oil out of it ( you may need to tilt). Also when almost empty, you could just drill a hole in the bottom at the lowest point and put a basin under it.

    Its not like petrol, the vapours would not be flammable. I would take the top off it first with the jig saw. Then take the sides off.

    Thanks for the tipps, DD, am deffo goin to give this a shot.:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    10-10-20 wrote: »
    Let us know how it goes...!

    Well I got the tank disconnected , piece of cake really and have started to cut it up which again is turning out to be a piece of cake, like cutting butter, I did however kink the oil line and part of this is below some rubble and must wondering is it best to renew the line from tank to boiler without joints.

    The new tanks is going here, where the old tank was but I've levelled it now and just have to throw in some gravel and sand (area about 10x5 ft)

    DSC00127.jpg

    here's the new tank,

    1100SLA.jpg

    Was thinking of using either lintels or 16" paving slabs as their all I can manage to support the tank, Ideally I'd like to concrete the area but I'm looking for a quick, handy and cheap option so what do ye good folk think.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,393 ✭✭✭danjo-xx


    bump


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,467 ✭✭✭bushy...


    A slab of concrete would be the job , probably not the easiest though.


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