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Yet another Tiling question thread!

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  • 19-05-2009 12:14am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 5,381 ✭✭✭


    Hi All,

    A few quick tiling questions...

    Basically kitchen floor is floor boards with hardboard nailed down ( with ring shank nails ) and covered with lino. We now want to tile it,

    Would it be best to replace the hardboard with plywood? or would the hard board do?

    What sort of ball park pricing per square yard would we be looking at for tiling it with regular floor tiles (not porcelain or anything fancy) (its roughly 10sq yards).

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    Hi All,

    A few quick tiling questions...

    Basically kitchen floor is floor boards with hardboard nailed down ( with ring shank nails ) and covered with lino. We now want to tile it,

    Would it be best to replace the hardboard with plywood? or would the hard board do?

    What sort of ball park pricing per square yard would we be looking at for tiling it with regular floor tiles (not porcelain or anything fancy) (its roughly 10sq yards).

    Thanks

    Its impossible to tell without looking but should be fine. I would rec using brass screws to screw it down every 2 inches.

    10 Sqr yards is a small job and for a kitchen floor very small. Are you sure its not 10 square mtrs?????

    But anyway an adverage tiling price is 25 Euro per yard 30 euro per meter but generally tilers dont do any jobs smaller than 250 - 300 Euro


  • Registered Users Posts: 171 ✭✭JKM


    Hi,

    Me and my BF just finished tiling our kitchen of roughly the same size (9sq mtrs). We tiled on top of hardboard and it turned out fine. We did put a few extra screws down and also gave it a coat of PVA before tiling. We decided to do the actual tiling ourselves to save a bit. The tile itself cost us €6.50 a sq mtr. We were able to get a good price on an 'end of line' tile because it was such a small area. We also choose a tile with an uneven edge as it was a lot more forgiving to put down than one with a perfectly straight edge. Be warned though, the adhesive and grout will be quite expensive. I was shocked when together they cost nearly as much as the tiles cost. All in though we still did good, done the whole kitchen for about €130.

    Good luck.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    JKM wrote: »
    Hi,

    Me and my BF just finished tiling our kitchen of roughly the same size (9sq mtrs). We tiled on top of hardboard and it turned out fine. We did put a few extra screws down and also gave it a coat of PVA before tiling. We decided to do the actual tiling ourselves to save a bit. The tile itself cost us €6.50 a sq mtr. We were able to get a good price on an 'end of line' tile because it was such a small area. We also choose a tile with an uneven edge as it was a lot more forgiving to put down than one with a perfectly straight edge. Be warned though, the adhesive and grout will be quite expensive. I was shocked when together they cost nearly as much as the tiles cost. All in though we still did good, done the whole kitchen for about €130.

    Good luck.

    Usually on a 500 euro order of tiles you will spend 1/3rd on adhesive and grout, The same stat follows with a 1000 euro order. I could never understand why people buy dear tiles and then stick it down with Sh1t adhesive!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2 Abr


    Hi ,

    We learnt a lesson picking tiler when we went with a guy who had cheap prices but the quality of the tiling was terrible it was a waste of money cos he effectivly ruined our bathroom.We got it redone when we were doing our kitchenf loor tiles.Went with a company AA Tiling Services they were brilliant ,resonable price and the finish they left was perfect i would recommend them to you anyway, think they have a website ,aatilingservices.ie.There contact details and info are there.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 shaneh34


    You should take the floor boards up and replace the board wit a min of 18-20mm wpb ply you should also use a highly flex adhesive if you need someone to give you a price on supply and fitting let me know and i will see what i can do for you. give me a PM and i can help out

    shane


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  • Registered Users Posts: 247 ✭✭Jollyman


    Guys,

    I would recommend taking it up too and putting down ply and screwing it every four inches over time on the hardboard the tiles will crack even if you use the flex adhesive, we used two lots of ply on ours, to cross the joints also and i have still heard the odd crack but seen nothing yet!


    www.selfbuildardmore.blogspot.com


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 shaneh34


    Yeah

    Tiling Standards say that you should not tile on to no less than 18mm ply, if you tile on to this ply then your adhesive company should stand over any problems that you come up against. what alot of people do is put down a min of 18mm and then go over it again with about 10mm just to give it the extra stability. but definately as much screws as possible (not nails)


  • Registered Users Posts: 948 ✭✭✭Antrim_Man


    Hi,

    I got my bathroom done a few years ago and the put marine ply down first but the grout has cracked and come away as there is some movement under foot. Will flex grout solve this problem.

    I will post a picture if I can to show the cracking crumbling grout.

    The company who done the bathroom re-grouted the floor twice :mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 948 ✭✭✭Antrim_Man


    Here is a pic of the problem.

    DSC01233.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,262 ✭✭✭✭Joey the lips


    Your tiles are moving I am afraid. there is 2 solutions to this

    1. Use flexable grount with extra addmix added to make it more flexi

    2. Use Flex dec caulk.

    My pref would be the grout with addmix.

    I live in a timber frame house and this is happening terriable. The reason I know the tilers were good is I employed them once.

    Best of luck.


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