HONDA CIVIC ENGINE PROBLEM

jaybo

Hi all, Last year i purchased a 98 1.4i honda civic. It had two damaged bumpers at the time and I already had a car so it was just a cheap runaround for myself whenever i'd sell my present car at that time...

I drove the car from where i purchased it..about 35 miles...it drove perfect(no problems)...parked it up for 6 months (until i was ready to sell my own car)...in january of this year i started the car and it started first time round...but as soon as the engine got warm the revs started to oscillate... rise from 1,000 to 2,000 and back to 1,000 and back up again (agressively). Now im putting the car on the road in the next few days and the problem is not solved..

This is what ive checked : ...

Ive changed the throttle body for another one...

Throttle body leak.....

Idle air control valve....

Thermostat(thinking it was connected to engine getting warm)....

Expansion tank topped up making sure no airlock in coolant system sending false signals to automatic choke....

Changed Mass air flow meter.

Sprayed carburettor cleaner around and inside throttle body


Car is due NCT in the near future and im pretty certain it wont pass with that problem....

The honda civic has a built in diagnostic code reader and No engine light is on and when i bridge the block connector under the dash theres no code flashing on the dash.

PLEASE SOMEBODY HELP

JHMEG

There's no code as the ECU considers everything to be operating with normal parameters.

Bring it into a dealer who'll be able to tell you in 10 mins what's up with it. Prob won't cost too much (€60-€70) just for a diagnosis. That car is pre- ODB-II/EOBD so it'll take a main dealer or a specialist who has the older Honda gear.

jaybo

The whole reason why im on boards.ie in the first place is so that i dont have to go to a honda dealer as the dealer will just screw me over claiming its this that and the other and charge me dearly for it.

honda civic didnt have a diagnostic sockets until 00. If the ecu is showing up nothing then theres no point in bringing it to a dealer because he wont find anything either...as i have mentioned there is no diagnostics socket in a honda civc...its a built in one(bit of a DIY job,)...its very simple you just bridge a wire on a block connector under the dash and the engine light comes on...when it starts flashing you count how many times it flashes and you look up your car manual to see what the sequence of flashes correspond to on the fault code chart.....but this light aint flashing.

thanks very much for your input though....i thought i was the only one still up...;)

Zube

jaybo wrote: »

The whole reason why im on boards.ie in the first place is so that i dont have to go to a honda dealer as the dealer will just screw me over claiming its this that and the other and charge me dearly for it.

OK, I suggest you strip off and do a rain dance around the car. This will be much cheaper than getting diagnostics from a professional, and more fun than reading stuff on here fromn people who can't possibly know what's wrong with your old banger.

JHMEG

jaybo wrote: »

The whole reason why im on boards.ie in the first place is so that i dont have to go to a honda dealer as the dealer will just screw me over claiming its this that and the other and charge me dearly for it.

Last diagnosis from a dealer cost me €72 and no p!ssing around.

jaybo wrote: »

honda civic didnt have a diagnostic sockets until 00.

They do, under the glove box, to the left. It's proprietry, sometimes known as OBD-I.

jaybo wrote: »

If the ecu is showing up nothing then theres no point in bringing it to a dealer because he wont find anything either

Dealer can see all the inputs from the sensors and tell you what one(s) look dodgy.

jaybo wrote: »

...as i have mentioned there is no diagnostics socket in a honda civc...

They do, under the glove box, to the left. It's proprietry, sometimes known as OBD-I.

jaybo wrote: »

its a built in one(bit of a DIY job,)...its very simple you just bridge a wire on a block connector under the dash and the engine light comes on...

Only if there is a fault stored.

jaybo

big THANK YOU to JHMEG..good advice much appreciated...your a gentleman



and a big GO SCREW YOURSELF to LUBE...who has obviously spent too much time on 'The bog' and has no idea how to interact with people on boards...go pull the legs off a spider little boy.

Gary ITR

jaybo wrote: »

big THANK YOU to JHMEG..good advice much appreciated...your a gentleman



and a big GO SCREW YOURSELF to LUBE...who has obviously spent too much time on 'The bog' and has no idea how to interact with people on boards...go pull the legs off a spider little boy.

And neither do you by the looks of it. Take this as your one and only warning. Next time it's a ban

jaybo

Zube wrote: »

OK, I suggest you strip off and do a rain dance around the car. This will be much cheaper than getting diagnostics from a professional, and more fun than reading stuff on here fromn people who can't possibly know what's wrong with your old banger.

So this sort of behaviour is tolerated is it?? I ask a genuine question to get advice from the public which I thought what this site was all about?? and this guy comes out with this bull****?

If he has nothing constructive to add to my thread then why does he come and spoil it like he did. ....The rules state 'No thread spoiling - if you are not interested in an item do not comment on it...

Has he been threatened with a ban??

Why am i the one being punished here ONKLE??

Sqaull20

Agree with you completely Jaybo!!

bushy...

Sqaull20 wrote: »

Agree with you completely Jaybo!!

+1 as the saying goes

Anyway , I remember sorting something like this before on a civic , it was J-spec though so had all the extra emission control stuff around the intake , it was a faulty little solenoid vavle hidden away , not the main air bleed valve

Captain Slow IRL

jaybo wrote: »

Idle air control valve....

This would be the main culprit if it's been parked up for so long. AFAICR It's held on by 2 philips head screws at the back of the throttle body. Undo this, clean out with brake or carb cleaner and douse with wd40 or similiar. I'm going off a hazy memory, but there should be a plunger that moves in and out freely - the wd40 should help free it up.

Gary ITR

jaybo wrote: »

So this sort of behaviour is tolerated is it?? I ask a genuine question to get advice from the public which I thought what this site was all about?? and this guy comes out with this bull****?

If he has nothing constructive to add to my thread then why does he come and spoil it like he did. ....The rules state 'No thread spoiling - if you are not interested in an item do not comment on it...

Has he been threatened with a ban??

Why am i the one being punished here ONKLE??

If you have a problem with a moderating decision take it to PM. It also states in the rules not to question a mod on thread. Anymore out of you and I'll give you a weeks ban

jaybo

Captain Slow IRL wrote: »

This would be the main culprit if it's been parked up for so long. AFAICR It's held on by 2 philips head screws at the back of the throttle body. Undo this, clean out with brake or carb cleaner and douse with wd40 or similiar. I'm going off a hazy memory, but there should be a plunger that moves in and out freely - the wd40 should help free it up.

Thanks captain slow irl...will try that

jaybo

bushy... wrote: »

+1 as the saying goes

Anyway , I remember sorting something like this before on a civic , it was J-spec though so had all the extra emission control stuff around the intake , it was a faulty little solenoid vavle hidden away , not the main air bleed valve

thank you...will try that

jaybo

Onkle wrote: »

If you have a problem with a moderating decision take it to PM. It also states in the rules not to question a mod on thread. Anymore out of you and I'll give you a weeks ban

i know you have a job to do and i respect you and this site but cannot tolerate behaviour from that asswipe (ZUBE) who gets away with spoiling/putting up childish replies to a genuine thread. No doubt not one word has been said to him. TOPIC CLOSED.

Atomic Pineapple

Theres a multi-quote feature that you can use instead of posting 3 different replies.

Just ignoring Zube's comment would have overall been much more constructive, other posters would have just ignored it and it would have gone largely un-noted by anyone.

As for your problem I think captain slow irl has the right issue, leave it soaking in cleaner overnight and replace it the next morning and see if it helps

busykill

Had the exact same problem with a 96 civic, brought it the local garage who had a 99 with the same problem. I called into the honda dealer who told me exactly what was wrong with it, it's pretty common with civics after they've been parked up. You simply have to clean and lube the butterfly valve My local mechanic took it apart and did it for me, it fixed both the cars. Also there's a sensor in the area around the butterfly that you can unplug which will stop the revving but the engine will run rough

Gary ITR

jaybo wrote: »

i know you have a job to do and i respect you and this site but cannot tolerate behaviour from that asswipe (ZUBE) who gets away with spoiling/putting up childish replies to a genuine thread. No doubt not one word has been said to him. TOPIC CLOSED.

In fairness you have no idea what has or hasn't been said to Zube. Now I gave you 2 warnings on this thread and even invited you to PM me if you had anything further to add about my moderation.
Also calling Zube an asswipe is personal abuse and is against the forum charter
As I said there wouldn't be a third warning. 1 week ban

xabi

Can i jump on this thread?

I have a 1998 1.4 Civic that I recently bought as a run around. The car starts fine every morning but sometime won’t hold the rev, most times it does though. When it doesn’t hold the rev or dies out it’s a bugger to start again, engine turns but doesn’t start, can take upto 10 mins of trying, this only happens when the engine is cold. Any ideas?

X.

Anan1

xabi wrote: »

Can i jump on this thread?

I have a 1998 1.4 Civic that I recently bought as a run around. The car starts fine every morning but sometime won’t hold the rev, most times it does though. When it doesn’t hold the rev or dies out it’s a bugger to start again, engine turns but doesn’t start, can take upto 10 mins of trying, this only happens when the engine is cold. Any ideas?

X.

I think you'll get a better response if you start a new thread!