Labour Saving and General Guntering

Muckit

And a great excuse not to be able to fix things! Two birds, one stone!!

lakill Farm

Muckit wrote: »

And a great excuse not to be able to fix things! Two birds, one stone!!

Susssh.

foxy farmer

SCOL wrote: »

With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage
maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide.

I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ?

I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.

Watching to do something similar here but more for shelter at back door when getting out of the car in the rain. I saw one recently but the roof was low and very flat and the box profile clear sheeting was gone green and had leaves etc. on it.
I'm putting down concrete around the house at the moment and the next section will be covered so I must put in thicker floor to carry uprights. I'm googling car ports to get ideas.

renandstimpy

I done kinda the same thing .... shelter at back door and clothes line .













I got mismeasured windows off donedeal... still have to flash to wall on house but only really drips down once in a while depending on direction of rain .

L1985

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

larthehar

L1985 wrote: »

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

http://www.oneilleng.ie/index.php/product/oneill-calf-sheep-staller/
Make sonething like this?

L1985

I did look at that one actually but I don't know would it hold a calf? It doesn't look the sturdiest although being able to move it would be very handy ....and would it be tough enough work getting a calf to stick his head in it.....? If it's an open pen you would need more then one person I'd say to get it in position and that's what I don't have.. thanks for the suggestion and I'm not ruling it out I just didn't know if that would be the best option. We have suckler-calves aren't too bad but not about to give you a cuddle either!!!
Actually just scrolled down and saw the video-looks a better job then i thought and looks easy to manoeuvre so more interested in it now-might try see a sample at the ploughing!

charolais0153

L1985 wrote: »

I did look at that one actually but I don't know would it hold a calf? It doesn't look the sturdiest although being able to move it would be very handy ....and would it be tough enough work getting a calf to stick his head in it.....? If it's an open pen you would need more then one person I'd say to get it in position and that's what I don't have.. thanks for the suggestion and I'm not ruling it out I just didn't know if that would be the best option. We have suckler-calves aren't too bad but not about to give you a cuddle either!!!
Actually just scrolled down and saw the video-looks a better job then i thought and looks easy to manoeuvre so more interested in it now-might try see a sample at the ploughing!

If calves are strong theyll pull it off tge gate. First calf we bad done that.

A small pen and pull a gate around the calf and tie it to wall with chain. Best job

L1985

Yeah I was thinking as much re a strong calf-actually charlaois that has given me very good food for thought-we have crash barriers the metal Ones that I could adapt very easily and could use in different pens as well.....

GrasstoMilk

L1985 wrote: »

I did look at that one actually but I don't know would it hold a calf? It doesn't look the sturdiest although being able to move it would be very handy ....and would it be tough enough work getting a calf to stick his head in it.....? If it's an open pen you would need more then one person I'd say to get it in position and that's what I don't have.. thanks for the suggestion and I'm not ruling it out I just didn't know if that would be the best option. We have suckler-calves aren't too bad but not about to give you a cuddle either!!!
Actually just scrolled down and saw the video-looks a better job then i thought and looks easy to manoeuvre so more interested in it now-might try see a sample at the ploughing!

Have one here. It's dairy calves we have so a big difference. But I think it's a mighty yoke. Calves go into it very easy and out very easy. Run them out around the pen and guide what one you want into it.
But it's only as strong as the gate you put it on. Needs a good heavy bar to take the pulling

lakill Farm

2 pallets into crush along with them. Narrow it up

L1985 wrote: »

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

yellow50HX

L1985 wrote: »

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

we use the gate to the calvign pen as a mini crush for calves, works brilliantly, need two people though.

the dividing gate in the slatted shed is on the front of the H iron and the gate to the calving pen on the rear. when you close up the gate there is enough room for a calf and you can access them through the gate for tagging and injecting. gate is 14ft so plenty of leverage. very handy for sucklers. open the gate and coral the calf in then close up fast and push. big the bigger lads they will push out but we can do it for calfs up to a few months old.

L1985

"we use the gate to the calvign pen as a mini crush for calves, works brilliantly, need two people though.

the dividing gate in the slatted shed is on the front of the H iron and the gate to the calving pen on the rear. when you close up the gate there is enough room for a calf and you can access them through the gate for tagging and injecting. gate is 14ft so plenty of leverage. very handy for sucklers. open the gate and coral the calf in then close up fast and push. big the bigger lads they will push out but we can do it for calfs up to a few months old.[/quote]"

Thanks for that. I went looking at our crush at the weekend( we have one from enniscorthy farm services) and got such a surprise as it can hold young calves. I thought it would be way too big!! So that's great for when I'm doing them in the yard as I run them up the crush. Also went looking at our calving gate after your comment. It's way too big but I think if I drill another hole for a notch and weld another piece at the top we can use it for the calves as well which would be v handy as that's where we usually have them. I wouldn't have thought to look there so thanks for all of the help guys

SCOL

SCOL wrote: »

With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage
maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide.

I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ?

I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.

I'm going to go with a car port style. 22 feet long by appx 18 feet wide attached to the back of the garage. Power float the floor as level as possible for a workshop. I'm thinking maybe two 9 foot gates each of it so it can be closed if needed.
What's the best way to attach the roof to the garage ? I was thinking of bolting rectangular box section to the garage and work off that ? or are there some sort of fittings to nail into the wall to hang the joists from.

lakill Farm

SCOL wrote: »

I'm going to go with a car port style. 22 feet long by appx 18 feet wide attached to the back of the garage. Power float the floor as level as possible for a workshop. I'm thinking maybe two 9 foot gates each of it so it can be closed if needed.
What's the best way to attach the roof to the garage ? I was thinking of bolting rectangular box section to the garage and work off that ? or are there some sort of fittings to nail into the wall to hang the joists from.

there are single and double joist carriers you can buy ( I have them around the stairs in my stables :rolleyes:) but I wount like to rely on them for what your talking about doing

Nekarsulm

For an 18 foot wide lean-to, you will need good height at the garage side to give adequate slope to your roof, while still having at least 10 foot height at the low end.

Bullocks

SCOL wrote: »

I'm going to go with a car port style. 22 feet long by appx 18 feet wide attached to the back of the garage. Power float the floor as level as possible for a workshop. I'm thinking maybe two 9 foot gates each of it so it can be closed if needed.
What's the best way to attach the roof to the garage ? I was thinking of bolting rectangular box section to the garage and work off that ? or are there some sort of fittings to nail into the wall to hang the joists from.

What are you roofing it with ? You could rawlbolt a 9 X 2 to the gable and use joist hangers on that to take the timber

SCOL

I was think of going up to about 13 feet that is to the eves of the garage so it would be appx 3 foot of a fall. I was going to use the clear corrugated sheets as it going to used to dry closed / workshop.

patsy_mccabe

Cool bit of guntering;

https://www.donedeal.ie/trailers-for-sale/18ft-cattle-livestock-trailer/15305111

lakill Farm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Cool bit of guntering;

https://www.donedeal.ie/trailers-for-sale/18ft-cattle-livestock-trailer/15305111

Called him about the bale trailer last week. Wanted to know price for trailer with 2 axles.
1 axle e5k. 2 axles e8300

TheFarrier

A load of sheeting for the roof of the workshop landed here this morning.

What screws are best for attaching 0.6mm corrugated to timber??
Would I be better pre-drilling holes, or using tek screws?
Or a hammer and a punch before screwing??
Also would I be right in thinking the screws are to be applied into the heights of the corrugated and not the dips??

Thanks in advance

Reggie.

TheFarrier wrote: »

A load of sheeting for the roof of the workshop landed here this morning.

What screws are best for attaching 0.6mm corrugated to timber??
Would I be better pre-drilling holes, or using tek screws?
Or a hammer and a punch before screwing??
Also would I be right in thinking the screws are to be applied into the heights of the corrugated and not the dips??

Thanks in advance

Tek screws best job. For roof go through the highest part of the cladding not in the valley of it. Also don't overtighten the screws as you might damage the rubber washer on it

SCOL

I always put the screws ( the one's with the rubber washer ) on the bottom of the valley.

Reggie.

SCOL wrote: »

I always put the screws ( the one's with the rubber washer ) on the bottom of the valley.

Did that here and the roof leaked ever since all over shed done opposite and never a problem

TheFarrier

Reggie. wrote: »

Tek screws best job. For roof go through the highest part of the cladding not in the valley of it. Also don't overtighten the screws as you might damage the rubber washer on it

Thanks for the swift replies.

I've had a few lads telling me the last few days that I can expect condensation to drip from the clearlite panels in frosty weather.

They all said to put a clear plastic sheet under them, but none of them could advise what I could use for this, or where I could get it.

Any ideas??

lakill Farm

I was told

You tex screw the valley in box profile.
And the top of the curve in corrigation

Never had an issue here with either done like that

TheFarrier wrote: »

Thanks for the swift replies.

I've had a few lads telling me the last few days that I can expect condensation to drip from the clearlite panels in frosty weather.

They all said to put a clear plastic sheet under them, but none of them could advise what I could use for this, or where I could get it.

Any ideas??

Reggie.

TheFarrier wrote: »

Thanks for the swift replies.

I've had a few lads telling me the last few days that I can expect condensation to drip from the clearlite panels in frosty weather.

They all said to put a clear plastic sheet under them, but none of them could advise what I could use for this, or where I could get it.

Any ideas??

Never had condensation problems with clear sheeting once the pitch of the roof was at a good enough angle

lakill Farm

Reggie. wrote: »

Never had condensation problems with clear sheeting once the pitch of the roof was at a good enough angle

I don't use clear sheeting here. Straight sheeting only. No danger when roofing. Or leaks. And they discolour after a few years anyway.

Muckit

TheFarrier wrote: »

A load of sheeting for the roof of the workshop landed here this morning.

What screws are best for attaching 0.6mm corrugated to timber??
Would I be better pre-drilling holes, or using tek screws?
Or a hammer and a punch before screwing??
Also would I be right in thinking the screws are to be applied into the heights of the corrugated and not the dips??

Thanks in advance

Tell them at store that you are screwing into timber as there is a coarser thread on these tek screws than for tapping into steel.

You will have to drill hole in galvanise l would think.

SCOL

What's the best angle as I'm working on a lean to at the back of my garage.

I was thinking 2/3 feet over a 18/20 foot length I'm going 6 lengths of box section
with 3 clear sheets. using 6 x 3 1/2 inch RSJ's for the uprights one bay wide using the
steel beams at 6 meters.