Labour Saving and General Guntering

Base price

We made up a few last year for calves and we used the small ball cocks so they couldn't reach in and break them, iykwim.

Base price

Base price wrote: »

We made up a few last year for calves and we used the small ball cocks so they couldn't reach in and break them, iykwim.

The other thing is we made two holes rather than cutting out one large hole in the center. This helped the barrel to hold its shape and not collapse. I will take a pic tomorrow.

Zr105

foxy farmer wrote: »

Some people would break iron. Neighbour rang me on Wednesday to see could I do a repair job to the loader. This is what I was greeted with. In fairness the box is only 4mm thick.
Took a chance on repairing it for him after getting a more experienced opinion first.

what the hell was he doing to manage that? we've a stoll/nh loader here amd it regularly has a 7ft bucket on it loading dung and it doesnt flinch. last time i saw something like that it was actually a quicke loader but it had met a wall

cjpm

Project is a Pick up hitch for trailed silage harvester.

Comprises of 2 box sections, one sliding within the other, and the hitch is raised by a single acting ram. A pawl (similar to in a ratchet) is used to support the weight of the trailer while filling. To lower the trailer, raise ram to top again, a string is pulled to release the pawl, lower ram.


What I want to do is to set the pawl up so that it disengages itself when the ram is raised for the second time. I.e. I want to get rid of the requirement to pull the string.

Anyone know how to set up a locking mechanism to do the following

1 Raise hitch using ram
2 Lower the hitch a little so it rests on a pawl
3 Raise the hitch a little so as to disengage the pawl automatically
4 Lower the hitch
5 Raise hitch again with next trailer and reset pawl





Now Gunterers any bright ideas??!!

fastrac94

cjpm wrote: »

Project is a Pick up hitch for trailed silage harvester.

Comprises of 2 box sections, one sliding within the other, and the hitch is raised by a single acting ram. A pawl (similar to in a ratchet) is used to support the weight of the trailer while filling. To lower the trailer, raise ram to top again, a string is pulled to release the pawl, lower ram.


What I want to do is to set the pawl up so that it disengages itself when the ram is raised for the second time. I.e. I want to get rid of the requirement to pull the string.

Anyone know how to set up a locking mechanism to do the following

1 Raise hitch using ram
2 Lower the hitch a little so it rests on a pawl
3 Raise the hitch a little so as to disengage the pawl automatically
4 Lower the hitch
5 Raise hitch again with next trailer and reset pawl





Now Gunterers any bright ideas??!!

Double acting ram and do away with the pawl altogether,far less yo go wrong and let ya down...

Nekarsulm

I think some late model New Holland 339's came with such a hitch.
All the red ones and early yellow ones had a string, but I think the last of the yellow ones worked the way you're thinking.

Actually, now I think of it, look for a hitch from a John Deere 3675 trailed precision chop.
You'll pick up an entire scrapped harvester for a few hundred.
The servo controlled valve chest is worth that alone.

TheFarrier

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

5 wheel drive

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

I have made one years ago When I was fairly green at the guntering. Works perfect for us but then everything is out of diet feeder. It’s a tractor wheel that can be picked up with grab. I’ll post a pic tomorrow.

larthehar

TheFarrier wrote: »

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

Are you driving on the door aswel?! 80mm box with a 5mm wall is cruel heavy for a sliding door.. 50mm with a 3mm wall would well suffice for the door frame..

TheFarrier

larthehar wrote: »

Are you driving on the door aswel?! 80mm box with a 5mm wall is cruel heavy for a sliding door.. 50mm with a 3mm wall would well suffice for the door frame..

Right. The lads running the show are just determined to make it a lifetime job, capable of withstanding everything they are going to throw at it. I'm only cobbling it together for them.

larthehar

TheFarrier wrote: »

Right. The lads running the show are just determined to make it a lifetime job, capable of withstanding everything they are going to throw at it. I'm only cobbling it together for them.

If they are prone to driving into things nothing will save it.. otherwise i would say getting it galvanised would be a lasting job. Keep it up off the ground and maybe fit stokboard to the inside to protect it.

vincenzolorenzo

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

That's why I hate box section with a passion. You can't tell the wall thickness by looking at it. On a farm too they rot away from the inside out in no time.
All those cheap trailers you see on Donedeal, all have box section for beams undernath the body.

True to a point, but the radius of the corner of the box will give you a good idea of how heavy the wall is. Bigger radius = thicker wall

patsy_mccabe

vincenzolorenzo wrote: »

True to a point, but the radius of the corner of the box will give you a good idea of how heavy the wall is. Bigger radius = thicker wall

Maybe, but they still rust from the inside out.

SuperTortoise

TheFarrier wrote: »

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

Massive overkill, as said above 40 or 50mm box 3mm wall is plenty, i have doors hanging here that are lighter than that even and never had a problem.

Edit: Just read your second comment, if you're making it for them and they're paying for it then make it to the spec they want, but factor in extra runners for the extra weight and the hastle of standing something that heavy!

5 wheel drive

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

Here it is. The bottom row of tones on silage grab go in throu the slot and then the wheel turns against the weight of the silage. Works perfect for us.

patsy_mccabe

That's a fine looking tyre. Did it have an accident or what?

TheFarrier

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Massive overkill, as said above 40 or 50mm box 3mm wall is plenty, i have doors hanging here that are lighter than that even and never had a problem.

Edit: Just read your second comment, if you're making it for them and they're paying for it then make it to the spec they want, but factor in extra runners for the extra weight and the hastle of standing something that heavy!

Thanks for your reply. There was nothing specified only to "make it f#$%ing strong enough".

Steel for it landed today 50x50x3mm box.

Tbh I'd never made a door any bigger than a garage door and had assumed that section would have to increase with scale. After the replies got here the main thing that led me to get the 50mm was the thoughts of trying to hang the thing.

5 wheel drive

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

That's a fine looking tyre. Did it have an accident or what?

No I’ve just loads of money, haha.

Ya got it off a lad where the stabilizer off the linkage arm came off and went through the side wall. Tyre only on a week when it happened. Sick.

Buford T. Justice XIX

I just came across a different silage pusher for the guntering gang in here.

https://twitter.com/peter_cags/status/950657264033193984

mayota

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

ganmo

mayota wrote: »

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

9v battery bit of insulated wire and a piece of iron

wrap the wire around the iron lots of times and connect each end to the battery

Kevhog1988

mayota wrote: »

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

Nice Job,

Use an old speaker from a car maybe???

ganmo

theemigrant wrote: »

Nice Job,

Use an old speaker from a car maybe???

They're permanent magnets

TheFarrier

ganmo wrote: »

They're permanent magnets

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

mycro2013

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Massive overkill, as said above 40 or 50mm box 3mm wall is plenty, i have doors hanging here that are lighter than that even and never had a problem.

Edit: Just read your second comment, if you're making it for them and they're paying for it then make it to the spec they want, but factor in extra runners for the extra weight and the hastle of standing something that heavy!

I've made them here for numerous farmers and always use 50mm galvanised pipe. With the top section made from angle to allow door adjustment when fitting the door rollers.

Kevhog1988

TheFarrier wrote: »

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

Cloth will do the same thing

The Rabbi

TheFarrier wrote: »

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

Round magnet from broken amber beacon or trailer lights in cap of aerosol can with thread tied to magnet to whip it out fast over scrap container.If you had a magdrill in a container it would be contractor scale.

Reggie.

mayota wrote: »

Making some calf pens here. Anyone know if a cheap electromagnet could be made to pick up metal filings ?

Just sweep them up

mayota

TheFarrier wrote: »

I often use a magnet from a cb radio mount inside a light plastic tub. Pick up filings, hold tub over bin, pull out magnet and filings drop away.

And there’s me trying to over complicate it! Thanks lads for the tips.

Nekarsulm

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

https://mobile.twitter.com/peter_cags/status/950496829392805888/video/1