Labour Saving and General Guntering

larthehar

TheFarrier wrote: »

I found that when I have the same issue it's usually caused by the angle I'm holding the rod. I try to hold the rod at 45 degrees and keep the tip well into the corner. Should weld both pieces then but if your rod is leaning more towards one piece or the other then your catching the opposing piece more

When a weld contracts it will pull the metal off perpendicular.. what i tend to do it slightly lie away from the side i am welding, tack weld, then the other side can be squared up and welded resulting in a square plane..

cjpm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Guys any tips on how to fillet weld?
I can weld edge to edge flat (butt weld) no problem but never mastered the welding of parts at 90deg to each other. I've looked at lots of videos on youtube but none seem to help. The only way I can do it is with 3 passes, the first two on each side and then the third bridging those two. If I try it in one pass, the weld sticks to one side or the other.
What am I doing wrong?

Welder not turned up enough. Don't be afraid of having the steel glowing red after a run of weld (as long as it isn't thin enough to burn through....

Reggie.

charolais0153 wrote: »

What is it?

It's my new powerwasher shed

Limestone Cowboy

Would a mag drill be able to drill holes in a railway girder lads from the flat side?

patsy_mccabe

All it was all along was the electrical supply. Can't believe it. Plugged the welder in at the garage nearer the house with a much shorter extension lead and problem solved.
I was welding all along in the farm shed about 80 yards from the house with a long extension lead to add to the problem. Doesn't help either if the oven and a few other appliances are on in the house. I'll get a proper 20A lead and wire in 16A plugs in the shed. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Reggie.

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

All it was all along was the electrical supply. Can't believe it. Plugged the welder in at the garage nearer the house with a much shorter extension lead and problem solved.
I was welding all along in the farm shed about 80 yards from the house with a long extension lead to add to the problem. Doesn't help either if the oven and a few other appliances are on in the house. I'll get a proper 20A lead and wire in 16A plugs in the shed. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

Tasty welding

patsy_mccabe

Reggie. wrote: »

Tasty welding

Well compared to what I was getting on Saturday... complete birdsh1te welds.

blue5000

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

Would a mag drill be able to drill holes in a railway girder lads from the flat side?

I've never tried it, But I can't see why not. Any time I drilled them was in the middle web, and that was done with the stick welder at 250 amp;) I suppose try it with a bit that you don't use very often and put lots of cutting oil on it as you go. Give the bit time to cool.

Buford T. Justice XIX

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

All it was all along was the electrical supply. Can't believe it. Plugged the welder in at the garage nearer the house with a much shorter extension lead and problem solved.
I was welding all along in the farm shed about 80 yards from the house with a long extension lead to add to the problem. Doesn't help either if the oven and a few other appliances are on in the house. I'll get a proper 20A lead and wire in 16A plugs in the shed. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

I had the same problem with a standard extension lead on the power washer, couldn't figure out what was happening with power fluctuating until an older man in the shop I bought it in recommended I use a heavier guage power lead.

No problems since.

foxy farmer

A mag drill needs a clean smooth surface to cling well to. A quick run with a grinding disc wouldn't be any harm. I've seen lads tack a piece of 6" flat bar to the rail to cling the mag drill to. A lot of work to get a hole drilled but thats what they do. Use the welder on full power here unless its a precision job. Soaking the rods in water beforehand is supposed to help by making them last a bit longer.

patsy_mccabe

Buford T. Justice V wrote: »

I had the same problem with a standard extension lead on the power washer, couldn't figure out what was happening with power fluctuating until an older man in the shop I bought it in recommended I use a heavier guage power lead.

No problems since.

Ya, I had a chat with an electrician friend. 20A SWA leads and 16A sockets are the way to go. Use 16A MCB trip then on the supply to match the welder. Will be delighted if I get it to work in the farm shed. Plan on doing a good bit of welding soon. New sheds to put up.

patsy_mccabe

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

Would a mag drill be able to drill holes in a railway girder lads from the flat side?

I did it only last week. See previous page. The magnetic force on the rust will be poor, so use a G clamp to secure it better. Use cutting paste and do not let drill bit get hot. I drilled four 20mm hole with a regular twist drill bit.

SuperTortoise

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Guys any tips on how to fillet weld?
I can weld edge to edge flat (butt weld) no problem but never mastered the welding of parts at 90deg to each other. I've looked at lots of videos on youtube but none seem to help. The only way I can do it is with 3 passes, the first two on each side and then the third bridging those two. If I try it in one pass, the weld sticks to one side or the other.
What am I doing wrong?

Not hot enough, dirty steel, incorrect angle, would be where i'd start. What thickness steel are you welding? and what are the settings on your machine?
Are you welding with MIG or stick?

Edit: I see you've solved it!

have2flushtwice

charolais0153 wrote: »

What is it?

Safe to say there will be a three point linkage of some sorts to be added?

Reggie.

have2flushtwice wrote: »

Safe to say there will be a three point linkage of some sorts to be added?

Or a set of wheels and a drawbar

Muckit

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

All it was all along was the electrical supply. Can't believe it. Plugged the welder in at the garage nearer the house with a much shorter extension lead and problem solved.
I was welding all along in the farm shed about 80 yards from the house with a long extension lead to add to the problem. Doesn't help either if the oven and a few other appliances are on in the house. I'll get a proper 20A lead and wire in 16A plugs in the shed. Hopefully that will solve the problem.

l wouldn't be hectic with welder either. An extension lead wouldnt be strong enough cable for welding. l ruined a good reel doing just that. Now have a cable as thick as your finger. Have it when welding or using elec power washer etc

Muckit

Reggie. wrote: »

Or a set of wheels and a drawbar

Its been invented before.... it's called a trailer!
Will u insulate it?

Is that the water from the 'big freeze' when u tried to make the biggst ice cube in the world?

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

Its been invented before.... it's called a trailer!
Will u insulate it?

Is that the water from the 'big freeze' when u tried to make the biggst ice cube in the world?

Would you believe it barely froze. Only the top inch or so. Ill remove the powerwasher in the winter. Be just hand to have it setup for the summer while going from job to job

wrangler

Muckit wrote: »

l wouldn't be hectic with welder either. An extension lead wouldnt be strong enough cable for welding. l ruined a good reel doing just that. Now have a cable as thick as your finger. Have it when welding or using elec power washer etc

I have the same, a heavy extension reel that I made up myself, I also put down heavy wire underground years ago, I had a good bit of concrete down in the yard sohad to go around the boundary of the yard, I used a microdigger as some places it was just the bare width between the sheds and the boundary wall and brought the wire in to the sheds from the field side , I also put down an alternative water pipe as well as the yard was only piped with half inch.

patsy_mccabe

Well I got the SWA 4mm square cable and it's fair heavy. Seems to be rated around the 25 to 30A. It's the underground cable to the shed that is the concern. Wont know till I get the electrician to open it up at the fuseboard.

RobinBanks

Thanks to Muckit for giving me the idea.

Reggie.

RobinBanks wrote: »

Thanks to Muckit for giving me the idea.

What's your welding like?

Nekarsulm

RobinBanks wrote: »

Thanks to Muckit for giving me the idea.

Hi Robin, do you have to dismantle the components of the hook ends, or will the spring survive the heat?

RobinBanks

Reggie. wrote: »

What's your welding like?

Heavy stuff like this I'm ok

RobinBanks

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Hi Robin, do you have to dismantle the components of the hook ends, or will the spring survive the heat?

I spent a while wondering about this but it was a big enough job to dismantle with all the roll pins so I chanced it. The spring was light enough to start with and it's no worse after the welding. They are advertised as weld on hooks so they should be heat resistant

Muckit

fair play RB! A great job. They look right goid welds to me. They are a fine size hook aren't they. Will make a job of the tractor.

looking down from the top, did you weld them with a slight kink inwards? This is how mine are done.

RobinBanks

Muckit wrote: »

looking down from the top, did you weld them with a slight kink inwards? This is how mine are done.

Funny you mention that now. I didn't change the angle just copied the original but last week when the slurry man was down I looked at his Mxu140 and they had a slight kick on them.

Christ I hope I haven't made a mess of this now! Maybe the original ends are ok to be straight but the hooks need an angle on them.

It's hard enough get the power box and disc mower on already without adding more complications

Reggie.

RobinBanks wrote: »

Funny you mention that now. I didn't change the angle just copied the original but last week when the slurry man was down I looked at his Mxu140 and they had a slight kick on them.

Christ I hope I haven't made a mess of this now! Maybe the original ends are ok to be straight but the hooks need an angle on them.

It's hard enough get the power box and disc mower on already without adding more complications

Usually they have a slight kink inwards. Fine welding. I wouldn't have the guts to chance welding one of them

patsy_mccabe

You'd want to be a coded welder to weld something like that. If they were to fail, what would the consequences Be?

RobinBanks

Reggie. wrote: »

I wouldn't have the guts to chance welding one of them

Just set the welder to 150-160amps and use 3.2mm rods. I have a 16amp plug on my welder though because you will blow fuses drawing that much current.