Labour Saving and General Guntering

Muckit

Sorry for being critical but (and I'm not a great welder myself by any means!) that's not a great weld Patsy. You've a lot more weld on the near piece and undercut the hell out of the other.

Think the angle of the rod has a lot to do with it. It's not easy to weld two pieces at right angles. I orienatate the pieces so that lm welding straight down but not always possible.

TheFarrier

Muckit wrote: »

Sorry for being critical but (and I'm not a great welder myself by any means!) that's not a great weld Patsy. You've a lot more weld on the near piece and undercut the hell out of the other.

Think the angle of the rod has a lot to do with it. It's not easy to weld two pieces at right angles. I orienatate the pieces so that lm welding straight down but not always possible.

It's not going to fall apart all the same

patsy_mccabe

Picture is a bit misleading. Theyre both channel, but the lower piece is a support welded on at 45 deg. So it's not a right angle as such. When it cut the support to mate the parts , I didn't cut the back plate, only the sides. So I had to fill a small 'v' as I welded.
Not expert welding by any means, but this is the guntering thread Muckit.

enricoh

Can any of ye recommend​ a good auto dim welding helmet. Bought a couple of ones off Amazon, eBay etc and were rubbish- arceye all the time​ . I bought a parweld a few months ago but the face was on fire this week with it.
Thanks

larthehar

enricoh wrote: »

Can any of ye recommend​ a good auto dim welding helmet. Bought a couple of ones off Amazon, eBay etc and were rubbish- arceye all the time​ . I bought a parweld a few months ago but the face was on fire this week with it.
Thanks

Kinda depends on how much welding you do on a weekly basis and how much you are willing to spend. I have a four lakes one got it in ept in carlow as a package with the inverter welding. Happy out with it but i wouldn't be welding everyday with it

Wildsurfer

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I know I posted this already, but the quality of welds I'm getting now compared to before is unreal. And to think it was all down to poor quality supply cables. I thought it was down to me. Pleasure to weld now in comparison.

What kind of leads did you get pasty? The ones with my inverter are very short, must get a longer set. Do the earth and rod leads need to be heavier or just better quality wire in them?

Farmer

enricoh wrote: »

Can any of ye recommend​ a good auto dim welding helmet. Bought a couple of ones off Amazon, eBay etc and were rubbish- arceye all the time​ . I bought a parweld a few months ago but the face was on fire this week with it.
Thanks

Never had much luck with these, went too bright after a few months. Back now to nodding the head

patsy_mccabe

Wildsurfer wrote: »

What kind of leads did you get pasty? The ones with my inverter are very short, must get a longer set. Do the earth and rod leads need to be heavier or just better quality wire in them?

I was referring to the power supply lead going to the welder from the mains. I have a 4 square SWA lead as an extension lead now.

enricoh

Farmer wrote: »

Never had much luck with these, went too bright after a few months. Back now to nodding the head

Yeah I'm thinking I'll do the same, at least you know when u are getting fried. Was welding away with the auto dim , (all the settings were right) and by the end u could fry an egg off my face!

patsy_mccabe

While we are talking about welding - these are a great job. The welding rod holders they sell with most welders are only spring types. No comparison to these 'twist grip' types;

https://www.weldingtorchparts.co.uk/arc-welding-twist-grip-electrode-holders.html

raypallas

enricoh wrote:

Yeah I'm thinking I'll do the same, at least you know when u are getting fried. Was welding away with the auto dim , (all the settings were right) and by the end u could fry an egg off my face!

Would you try a welding supplier like KWS or bercar? they would have a decent quality masks. Be worth spending 80 or 100 quid on one.

Aravo

Would def spend the money on an autodim helmet. Would be lost without one. Got mine on eBay about 10yrs ago. Still going strong for the bits and pieces I do. Always safely stored away.

foxy farmer

I get some lovely "presents" from time to time. Got one this evening. Pump after suffering frost damage during the snow. Snapped 2 clamp bolts and the owner did the other 2. About 6mm diameter and sheared just above the cast housing.
What's the best solution here apart from scrapping it? Tried a gentle twist with the vice grips but no go. One is hopeless.
Weld a snot onto each and hope that the heat might soften it and improve grip.
Screw removing taps
Or drill them out and tap a size larger.

patsy_mccabe

foxy farmer wrote: »

....... What's the best solution here apart from scrapping it? Tried a gentle twist with the vice grips but no go. One is hopeless.
Weld a snot onto each and hope that the heat might soften it and improve grip.
Screw removing taps
Or drill them out and tap a size larger.

Weld nuts onto them. The heat will help loosen them and you will be able to grip the nut with a spanner. I've done it here when wheel studs sheared off but there was plenty of thread on the far side of the hub.
Drop a smaller size nut over them and hold it in place with some clamp. Weld down through the middle of the nut then. Just me thinkinhg out load. Never done it mind.
There are 'screw extractors' but guys I worked with before never had much faith in them.

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/screw-extractor-set-5-piece-set.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwqsHWBRDsARIsALPWMENvyP56DtYWP6jzWep1RQko8am1V2tITBd9EdzGTbc_hich1VjDUZ0aAojbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

foxy farmer

Went to look for an expert opinion. Wasn't forthcoming with an immediate solution. Said he'd sleep on it. So the "lab " report could take a while.

Peter90

foxy farmer wrote: »

I get some lovely "presents" from time to time. Got one this evening. Pump after suffering frost damage during the snow. Snapped 2 clamp bolts and the owner did the other 2. About 6mm diameter and sheared just above the cast housing.
What's the best solution here apart from scrapping it? Tried a gentle twist with the vice grips but no go. One is hopeless.
Weld a snot onto each and hope that the heat might soften it and improve grip.
Screw removing taps
Or drill them out and tap a size larger.

Skinny disc on the grinder, cut a track turn with screwdriver

Burning Tires

gctest50 wrote: »

They're sh!te - you'll just end up with a broken screw extractor stuck in the bolt

Get some putty and build a little cup around what's left of the bolt - half fill that with penetrating oil

Leave it for a few days

WD40 isn't any good for this - go get some acetone and mix it with ATF/Power Steering fluid ( dexron II )

I use brake fluid for that kind of job. I have it in a pumping squirt can. Leave it for a day and by god it will have frred it.
.
Dont get brake fluid on paint work....

Nekarsulm

Get some penetrating oil round them for a day or two.

There is a better type of Easi-out than those left handed twist things.
It's a type with 4 straight flutes on it, you need to drill right through the broken piece and drive the extractor in.
Be careful to support the flange of the pump while doing this, or you'll just snap it off.

emaherx

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Weld nuts onto them. The heat will help loosen them and you will be able to grip the nut with a spanner. I've done it here when wheel studs sheared off but there was plenty of thread on the far side of the hub.
Drop a smaller size nut over them and hold it in place with some clamp. Weld down through the middle of the nut then.

I'm with Patsy on this one

Eamonn8448

+1
plenty of room to weld and has been done countless times,
be at the same thing in the morning for a neighbor only this time its a fu**ing rounded lock nut on an alloy, if the old socket and hammer trick dont work i may be doing the above - no way i was taking a job like that on friday 13th - going to be a ballbreaker or a walk down easy street - would gladly swap tasks anyday mate lol

stock>

Wildsurfer wrote: »

What kind of leads did you get pasty? The ones with my inverter are very short, must get a longer set. Do the earth and rod leads need to be heavier or just better quality wire in them?

Check your manual for the welding plant, had a couple of inverters and all have restricted the lead length to 5 m....................

patsy_mccabe

Better pic Muckit. Kinda obvious what it is, I suppose.
€80 to get it galvanised.

Reggie.

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Better pic Muckit. Kinda obvious what it is, I suppose.
€80 to get it galvanised.

Very nice

Wildsurfer

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Better pic Muckit. Kinda obvious what it is, I suppose.
€80 to get it galvanised.

Er... what is it?

patsy_mccabe

Wildsurfer wrote: »

Er... what is it?

It's a frame to hang a 500kg fertiliser bag from. Bolted to a railway girder with 4 m20 bolts.

charolais0153

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

It's a frame to hang a 500kg fertiliser bag from. Bolted to a railway girder with 4 m20 bolts.

how do u get it there?

patsy_mccabe

Chain hoist goes on the eye hook. Rated 1 tonne.

49801

charolais0153 wrote: »

how do u get it there?

With the loader in front of tractor (spinner on the back).

Works ok but don’t think we quite cracked best way to transfer the bag from a prong to it. Used to use a short length of chain and hook and had to climb ladder to attach. Loader was prob a tad short for the job. Others might have a better method

mayota

Welded these on yesterday.Heavy duty Cat2. Old balls were falling out and arms coming out over lynch pins.

Muckit

l never used that system. you can lengthen the arm and then reverse to click back into place? Is there still a bit of wrestling to be done? International is it?