Labour Saving and General Guntering

mayota

Muckit wrote: »

l never used that system. you can lengthen the arm and then reverse to click back into place? Is there still a bit of wrestling to be done? International is it?

Ya, they extend about 6”. It’s handy enough. 785xl.

wrangler

mayota wrote: »

Ya, they extend about 6”. It’s handy enough. 785xl.

Old crystal used to be the same

patsy_mccabe

Gone mad gunthering these days. Bull jumped up on top bar of crush and bent it. Wondering how to straighten it and found video on youtube. Simple but effective way of doing it.

stock>

Nice Bosch profile there lad..................................

patsy_mccabe

stock> wrote: »

Nice Bosch profile there lad..................................

Well spotted. Fierce handy stuff. Light, strong and never rusts.

quietsailor

49801 wrote: »

With the loader in front of tractor (spinner on the back).

Works ok but don’t think we quite cracked best way to transfer the bag from a prong to it. Used to use a short length of chain and hook and had to climb ladder to attach. Loader was prob a tad short for the job. Others might have a better method

I saw a system like that before, the farmer had welded a 2 short length of shaft on a leg sticking up on top of the main crossbeam where the free end of the shaft pointed up slightly. You had to line the loop on the bag which was on the loader spike so that you had from top to bottom;

Top of the bag loop which was tight on top of
the loader spike which was
over but not touching the shaft

Sorry for the dodgy MS paint sketch

When you tilted the loader the loop slipped down the spike and was already around the stand shaft so it landed on the shaft. Becasue the shaft was tilted up it wouldn't slide off when the loader spike was withdrawn

SuperTortoise

Muckit wrote: »

Sorry for being critical but (and I'm not a great welder myself by any means!) that's not a great weld Patsy. You've a lot more weld on the near piece and undercut the hell out of the other.

Think the angle of the rod has a lot to do with it. It's not easy to weld two pieces at right angles. I orienatate the pieces so that lm welding straight down but not always possible.

I've seen a lot, LOT worse from professional welders, nothing wrong with that.
Undercut is very minimal, it'll be fine.

Now that we're on the subject, a general rule with undercut is, if you can catch your fingernail on it then it's too much.
Pro tip: cut the nails tight and every weld is a keeper! :pac:

One more tip, when you're chipping off the slag from a weld then 'scrape don't peck'. scrape the toes of the weld and the slag should fall off that way you don't get little pecker marks on the weld bead.

Job well done patsy.

SuperTortoise

enricoh wrote: »

Can any of ye recommend​ a good auto dim welding helmet. Bought a couple of ones off Amazon, eBay etc and were rubbish- arceye all the time​ . I bought a parweld a few months ago but the face was on fire this week with it.
Thanks

How much welding are you doing with it?

If you're doing a couple of hours most weeks then something like this is decent enough https://www.amazon.co.uk/Parweld-Large-Welding-Helmet-Function/dp/B07BJ6WBT4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523821833&sr=8-3&keywords=parweld+helmet

Shop around, i'm fairly sure you can get them cheaper that that.

Occasional use i would'nt even spend that much on it, get a passive shield.
Or get a shell and put an auto dark lens into the passive shield, both of those would be less expensive that the shield linked above.

satstheway

Fleming roller with the scraping system. (Springs are missing)
Never was much cop anyway as it dropped stuff out front and wet stuff just sticks back on (snowball effect).

Anyone got a better one. Was going to try something on back but it would also need to be spring loaded to account for movement in barrels.

It's paddocks so I don't care about bits dropping off.

satstheway

Here

Reggie.

Bit of a mess there

Odelay

satstheway wrote: »

Here

Can you get the scrapers moved to the back?

satstheway

Odelay wrote: »

Can you get the scrapers moved to the back?

Not easily but I'm sure possible.
Just wanted to see if anyone had anything different b4 doing that?

lab man

satstheway wrote:

Not easily but I'm sure possible. Just wanted to see if anyone had anything different b4 doing that?

I've a Watson roller the scrapers are on the back

Albert Johnson

satstheway wrote: »

Fleming roller with the scraping system. (Springs are missing)
Never was much cop anyway as it dropped stuff out front and wet stuff just sticks back on (snowball effect).

Anyone got a better one. Was going to try something on back but it would also need to be spring loaded to account for movement in barrels.

It's paddocks so I don't care about bits dropping off.

Could you tie a piece of plain wire diagonally across the barrel from corner to corner? It would act like a cheese wire and slice off the build up. A possible quick fix from one of the less technically minded amongst us!

satstheway

lab man wrote: »

I've a Watson roller the scrapers are on the back

Any chance of a picture

lab man

satstheway wrote:

Any chance of a picture

I'll get one tomorrow eve after work I'm not able to put fotos on boards maybe someone can tell me how to

satstheway

lab man wrote: »

I'll get one tomorrow eve after work I'm not able to put fotos on boards maybe someone can tell me how to

When your posting hit the attach file at the bottom and select camera. U might have to set the megapixels in the camera back in settings or it can be too big.

9935452

http://www.johnlaketractors.com/listing.php?tractor=1474964839&model=Watson 8ft-Ballast Roller#!prettyPhoto

If ye zoom in on the photos you can make out the scraper underneath

lab man

emaherx wrote:

Current project is a wrapped bale transporter being built out of remains of an old Muck Spreader. (only just started, currently just an axle and draw bar).

satstheway wrote:

Any chance of a picture

I'll send u a pm there of my number I'll text the photos on to u

Czhornet

Getting sick of spraying weeds in the yard and on the lawn at home with a knapsack so came up with this baby!

25 litre drum
12 volt pump worked off the lawn mower battery
3 nozzle spray bar
5 metre lance for spot spraying/close to walls etc

great job and saves the back!!

Nekarsulm

Excellent work! Now to get it certified.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Excellent work! Now to get it certified.

I didn't realise you knew that word

Nekarsulm

Reggie. wrote: »

I didn't realise you knew that word

Know it?
I've been it ......

patsy_mccabe

Guys making DIY hydraulic Log Splitter at the moment. Have nearly everything (from scrap) except the splitting head. Would it be OK to use a standard axe head? I vaguely remember reading something before about the metal being to brittle or something?

Say my name

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Guys making DIY hydraulic Log Splitter at the moment. Have nearly everything (from scrap) except the splitting head. Would it be OK to use a standard axe head? I vaguely remember reading something before about the metal being to brittle or something?

There's differences in axe heads.
There's a cutting axe and then a maul axe.
The maul head would be the most similar to a wedge on a logsplitter.
Not sure if it would take a weld?

I don't think it's best to weld a head directly to the ram though but leave a hoop and pin to connect to the ram shaft iykwim. A little play saves the ram and H iron on the splitter from bending.

Czhornet

Say my name wrote: »

There's differences in axe heads.
There's a cutting axe and then a maul axe.
The maul head would be the most similar to a wedge on a logsplitter.
Not sure if it would take a weld?

I don't think it's best to weld a head directly to the ram though but leave a hoop and pin to connect to the ram shaft iykwim. A little play saves the ram and H iron on the splitter from bending.

I got my blade made up from a piece of Hardox steel, it cuts down through knotty timber if it dosen't split it. great job.

+1 on the pin joint on top of the blade, allows greater flexibility than a rigid welded joint

patsy_mccabe

Say my name wrote: »

There's differences in axe heads.
There's a cutting axe and then a maul axe.
The maul head would be the most similar to a wedge on a logsplitter.
Not sure if it would take a weld?

I don't think it's best to weld a head directly to the ram though but leave a hoop and pin to connect to the ram shaft iykwim. A little play saves the ram and H iron on the splitter from bending.

Ya, I was planning on welding other tapered pieces to the sides of the axe to add width to push the split timber apart.

The axe will be welded driectly to a nice price of 1" thick steel that will slide up and down the face of the RSJ. I will add a pivot joint to this piece so wont be welding to the rod end. These pivot joints onlgt take care to misaligment in the one direction. Side to side misalignment isn't covered.

Czhornet wrote: »

I got my blade made up from a piece of Hardox steel, it cuts down through knotty timber if it dosen't split it. great job.

+1 on the pin joint on top of the blade, allows greater flexibility than a rigid welded joint

Might buy the wedge 'of the shelf'. Saw them on donedeal before. Cheers.

Czhornet

Pic of my home made splitter and the pin joint on top of the blade. The brackets are tapered outwards at the top to help with widening of the split timber .

stock>

The shape of the axe head is very important, I used one once that was commercially made and the timber block split violently as the angle was too steep and compressed the timber before it finally fractured causing the blocks to fly.


It was bucket teeth I used, and they work exceptionally well...........