Labour Saving and General Guntering

emaherx

IMG_20180707_163807 by Emaherx, on Flickr

IMG_20180707_163740 by Emaherx, on Flickr

It's for knocking back sprockets on baler rollers to remove the keys. Good to see it has other uses too

Muckit

Did u need the handle out of it?

I know nothing about balers. Why would you be taking off the sprockets....is it to remove the rollers?

Educate me!

emaherx

Muckit wrote: »

Did u need the handle out of it?

I know nothing about balers. Why would you be taking off the sprockets....is it to remove the rollers?

Educate me!

IMG_20180630_125140 by Emaherx, on Flickr

IMG_20180707_183400 by Emaherx, on Flickr

Yes to replace a rotten roller this time. More often to just replace bearings.

Handle is so I don't loose my hands from my wrist as someone else swings and possibly misses with a sledgehammer!

patsy_mccabe

....

It's for knocking back sprockets on baler rollers to remove the keys. Good to see it has other uses too

Gottcha, and you use the bearing puller to pull the gear back in place. Are all balers like that?

emaherx

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Gottcha, and you use the bearing puller to pull the gear back in place. Are all balers like that?

I'd imagine all roller balers are similar. It is possible to pull them key and all if you had a more expensive pullers with torque multiplyer built in.

dzer2

emaherx wrote: »

I'd imagine all roller balers are similar. It is possible to pull them key and all if you had a more expensive pullers with torque multiplyer built in.

Nah if you fit the key properly and make sure the all chains are aligned you van knock the key out with a set of wedges. Thumping that sprocket back to replace the bearing behind will only damage the bearing on the other side. I made a pullers for the sprockets that goes behind not through it.

Claas 44 is it.

emaherx

dzer2 wrote: »

Nah if you fit the key properly and make sure the all chains are aligned you van knock the key out with a set of wedges. Thumping that sprocket back to replace the bearing behind will only damage the bearing on the other side. I made a pullers for the sprockets that goes behind not through it.

Claas 44 is it.

Class 46


Not worried about other bearing as I always replace both at once. Why do half the job?

dzer2

Ah yes no bother when replacing roller but when bearing goes while baling I just replace the one.

mengele

emaherx wrote: »

Class 46


Not worried about other bearing as I always replace both at once. Why do half the job?

Can u grease those bearings

lab man

dzer2 wrote:

Nah if you fit the key properly and make sure the all chains are aligned you van knock the key out with a set of wedges. Thumping that sprocket back to replace the bearing behind will only damage the bearing on the other side. I made a pullers for the sprockets that goes behind not through it.

There is a proper tool you can buy for taking out the keys it's like a hacksaw but in an ark shape u keep tapping in an the teeth keep getting bigger and bigger thus shoving out the key, they can be made too

emaherx

mengele wrote: »

Can u grease those bearings

Some of them but not all.

emaherx

lab man wrote: »

There is a proper tool you can buy for taking out the keys it's like a hacksaw but in an ark shape u keep tapping in an the teeth keep getting bigger and bigger thus shoving out the key, they can be made too

Of coarse there is a proper tool but this is not the thread for that . Been replacing bearings in this baler for 15 years, 3 or 4 taps with the sledgehammer gets key out in less than a minute. (And not full force swings)

patsy_mccabe

Sorry, stll don't follow. Is the key tapered? If so what stops the gear from sliding in?

emaherx

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Sorry, stll don't follow. Is the key tapered? If so what stops the gear from sliding in?

Keys are ever so slightly tapered. There is not much hope of them sliding in by themselves, although I have herd of issues with keys on later class models so maybe that is what happens them.

SuperTortoise

Gunthering level: Intermediate.

Kart for carrying around my welding gear, all steel was from offcuts from various projects around the farm, bought wheels and runners for sliding drawer, grand total of €15 spent!
Couple of mods still to make but a real timesaver when carrying bits to different part of the yard, can carry all i need in one trip.

bogman_bass

Visiting friends in Edmonton and one brought me to his work. The service truck is next level

Farmer

No room for guntering with kit liket hat. We'd all be bored. Could end up watching telly or even golf in our spare time, heaven forbid!

SuperTortoise

Zero messing around out there in Oilberta!

The Rabbi

Do the metric sets look very dusty?

bogman_bass

Farmer wrote: »

No room for guntering with kit liket hat. We'd all be bored. Could end up watching telly or even golf in our spare time, heaven forbid!

When you are working with 150ft screamers and crushers there isn’t much room for guntering

stock>

bogman_bass wrote: »

When you are working with 150ft screamers and crushers there isn’t much room for guntering

What are the Canadians screaming about..........Thrump?...............

stock>

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Gunthering level: Intermediate.

Kart for carrying around my welding gear, all steel was from offcuts from various projects around the farm, bought wheels and runners for sliding drawer, grand total of €15 spent!
Couple of mods still to make but a real timesaver when carrying bits to different part of the yard, can carry all i need in one trip.

This I believe is not guntering but full on new fabrication, new steel, new wheels, new drawer runners, no Rust. The big thing missing is the hammer marks for the guntering touch.....................

Track9

That welding cart is awesome,D, should consider patenting it.

Track9

Looks like those Pots that are used for Melting Gold & Rare Metals.
I guess Agric Farming is just a sideline to the main business of Mining

Muckit

Excellent craftsmanship on that cart! Super job.

Those sack cart wheel rims can be of dubious quality l have found. Had the centres fall out of them and wasnt over loaded by any means. But not a big job to upgrade if it does happen

Nekarsulm

SuperTortoise, great welding cart. But is there any particular reason to have the shelves angled upwards 25 degrees?

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

SuperTortoise, great welding cart. But is there any particular reason to have the shelves angled upwards 25 degrees?

For the welder. The face of it is pointed up towards you

_Brian

emaherx wrote: »

IMG_20180630_125140 by Emaherx, on Flickr

IMG_20180707_183400 by Emaherx, on Flickr

Yes to replace a rotten roller this time. More often to just replace bearings.

Handle is so I don't loose my hands from my wrist as someone else swings and possibly misses with a sledgehammer!

Sledgehammer indeed..
guy i was at college was knocking in posts with his brother.. He was holding the post and the brother driving it..


he decided it was in enough and put his hand up to shake it and see how solid it was..


his brother was mid way though another swing and couldnt stop..


lost two fingers and the hand was desperately deformed :eek::(:(

Grueller

_Brian wrote: »

Sledgehammer indeed..
guy i was at college was knocking in posts with his brother.. He was holding the post and the brother driving it..


he decided it was in enough and put his hand up to shake it and see how solid it was..


his brother was mid way though another swing and couldnt stop..


lost two fingers and the hand was desperately deformed :eek::(:(

Local young lad did that while his grandad was knocking them in with a 3.5 tonne mini digger. Miraculously all he caught was the tip of one finger and it was able to be re-attached.

emaherx

Grueller wrote: »

Local young lad did that while his grandad was knocking them in with a 3.5 tonne mini digger. Miraculously all he caught was the tip of one finger and it was able to be re-attached.

Was lucky, tis hard to pick your nose with your wrist!