Labour Saving and General Guntering

9935452

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I've an old Howard side spreader here, that's over 30 years old. Bought second hand even then. Tyres are getting very dozed, so decided to try opening the nuts. All opened no problem with a heavy duty socket and a short bar, 18" or so. Didn't even have to put a foot on the bar.
Now, I never opened them before. Maybe the last guy greased them but I put burned engine oil all over the spreader evrey year after using. Just goes to show.
I've had to cut off wheel nuts before on a trailer, as they were seized up that much.

I have a host of inch air guns here for the yard.
For breakdowns away from the yard ive a torque multiplier. No messing with t bars and pipes.
If it wont open the nut it will shear it off.
Well worth 50 euro for a cheap one

anthony500_1

9935452 wrote:

I have a host of inch air guns here for the yard. For breakdowns away from the yard ive a torque multiplier. No messing with t bars and pipes. If it wont open the nut it will shear it off. Well worth 50 euro for a cheap one

The torque multiplier is a serious job. And no pressure on u using it either. Great job every yard should have one

Nekarsulm

Muckit wrote: »

Brake fluid and acetone mixed 50:50 is a diy mix l heard about on YouTube to cut through rust and help loosen nuts and bolts. I've tried it recently and works well

A small tin of Stockholm Tar, and put a little on any wheel nut, especially ones that go years between openings.
They will come off as easily in 20 years as they would tomorrow.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

A small tin of Stockholm Tar, and put a little on any wheel nut, especially ones that go years between openings.
They will come off as easily in 20 years as they would tomorrow.

Either that or copper grease

Muckit

Nekarsulm wrote: »

A small tin of Stockholm Tar, and put a little on any wheel nut, especially ones that go years between openings.
They will come off as easily in 20 years as they would tomorrow.

Thats some smelly sticky stuff!

Farmer

Nekarsulm wrote: »

A small tin of Stockholm Tar, and put a little on any wheel nut, especially ones that go years between openings.
They will come off as easily in 20 years as they would tomorrow.

Do you mean directly on the threads or just painted on as a sealant after the nut has been tightened?

Nekarsulm

Directly on the threads. I'm not fully convinced with copper-grease, some brands are possibly better than others, but remember that 95% of it is clay, and sometimes I've seen greased nuts seem to loosen.

OneLonleyFarmer mentioned stuff called NeverSeeze, its a marine product, so I got a tub off the internet.
Better than copper grease, but clatty stuff if you get it on the hands.

patsy_mccabe

Well, I can testify that burnt engine oil applied externally once a year, is a great anti-seize method for wheel nuts.

Nekarsulm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Well, I can testify that burnt engine oil applied externally , is a great anti-seize method for wheel nuts.

But we can't all drive a Land Rover, patsy .........

Attie

Not altogether labour saving but a bit of gundering.
Have an old Matbro 40d loading shovel with bad breaks owing to master cylinder seizing up new one's ( as there are 2 ) are very expensive.
Came up with the idea of putting 2  Zetor cylinder's in as they are very similar, had to do a bit of fancie pipe work and enlarge the hole's where they were bolted in to the frame.
this the resulting picture.

Muckit

Were the master cylinders leaking attie
?

Attie

Muckit wrote: »

Were the master cylinders leaking attie
?

No just giving a poor paddle all grew up inside not returning proper.

patsy_mccabe

Aravo wrote: »

What have people done to make moving calf dehorning crates easier. Any photos. I'll be going with the most simple solution.

I just use the sack truck. It was one of those Ah FFS, when I copped it first. I had planned to weld on wheels and all that.
Moving it today and remembered you asking the question.

TomOnBoard

Muckit wrote: »

Brake fluid and acetone mixed 50:50 is a diy mix l heard about on YouTube to cut through rust and help loosen nuts and bolts. I've tried it recently and works well

Id say you'd want to keep it well away from paintwork though...

wrangler

Found this on an English farming forum
Be one way of pushing down grasseed.

https://d1hu4133i4rt3z.cloudfront.net/attachments/673/673222-7bfb54e75ad9b3a1d12e82d5cab6bdfa.jpg

We've just done a few acres overseeding over the last few days...hope it grows now, cull ewes are planting it with their feet as we speak;
We're supposed to have rain tomorrow and Wednesday and a good bit of rain for Tullamore Show on Sunday

Figerty

Had to get a bit creative bringing in the bales...
1 lump of steel+ 1 Rock + two brake disk + Engine weight, and a full tank of diesel is greater than a round bale of silage... Just about..

Door is held open by the arms spring... equivalent to AC switched to 50%:)

patsy_mccabe

You'll limit that air intake with that chain.

Figerty

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

You'll limit that air intake with that chain.

That's not a chain.. that't an air filter:)
So that's why she was a bit smokey going up hills...
Due for an overhaul of the engine anyway!

Figerty

blue5000 wrote: »

Yes and yes.

Have to do the 4000. Lift dies going up steep hills and is fine when level or going down. Plenty oil in it, Pump strong. So I'm thinking the filters are restricted and need replacement. Roughly how long does it take and what o-rings need changing?

blue5000

Figerty wrote: »

Have to do the 4000. Lift dies going up steep hills and is fine when level or going down. Plenty oil in it, Pump strong. So I'm thinking the filters are restricted and need replacement. Roughly how long does it take and what o-rings need changing?

Does the pto go off as well going uphill? It could actually be low in oil, it all flows to the back leaving the inlet dry, filter could need cleaning too. I haven't been inside a 4000, but I presume it's fairly similar.

grassroot1

Figerty wrote: »

That's not a chain.. that't an air filter:)
So that's why she was a bit smokey going up hills...
Due for an overhaul of the engine anyway!

Just the engine?

Figerty

grassroot1 wrote: »

Just the engine?

Engine.. and while I have the off,, I start working my way back along the body work!

Figerty

blue5000 wrote: »

Does the pto go off as well going uphill? It could actually be low in oil, it all flows to the back leaving the inlet dry, filter could need cleaning too. I haven't been inside a 4000, but I presume it's fairly similar.

yes. It drops power. Not good for those pumps to run dry so I need to be careful.
I have removed the square ended plug and oil came out. It's a little over full but I'm not happy that that is the correct. I suspect the oil filter needs cleaning after 40 years.....
I think the insides are the same as the 5000 from your pictures.. Much appreciated.

blue5000

Black plastic to try save a few heads of barley when I was sowing turnips.

Jb1989

Figerty wrote: »

Engine.. and while I have the off,, I start working my way back along the body work!

Body work in decent original condition. Can't see need for touching it all once the heart and lungs have been reconditioned.

Figerty

Jb1989 wrote: »

Body work in decent original condition. Can't see need for touching it all once the heart and lungs have been reconditioned.

Wings are rotten, I'll need a tetnus shot shortly they are so rusty. One of the floor panels is gone, which means the foot throttle won't work. The rest is not too bad. Paint job and replacement panels. If the engine gets done, I'll do a full job on it over the winter.
Water pump, radiator, starter were all done over the last few years so it's not in bad shape. The power steering is excellent. One finger will rotate the wheel.
I'll the boom arm of the mini digger in the back window area and lift of the back end cover like you did with the pulley. (I'll take of the bucket first!) and clean that filter and check the hydraulic piston

tellmeabit

Figerty wrote:

Wings are rotten, I'll need a tetnus shot shortly they are so rusty. One of the floor panels is gone, which means the foot throttle won't work. The rest is not too bad. Paint job and replacement panels. If the engine gets done, I'll do a full job on it over the winter. Water pump, radiator, starter were all done over the last few years so it's not in bad shape. The power steering is excellent. One finger will rotate the wheel. I'll the boom arm of the mini digger in the back window area and lift of the back end cover like you did with the pulley. (I'll take of the bucket first!) and clean that filter and check the hydraulic piston

Have ye any diagrams what's under that cover. I've a 3000 that the lift isn't working. From what I've read a sticky return valve or overflow value. Can hear pump going but no movement on it. Think it's stuck about 1/3 of way up.

Figerty

tellmeabit wrote: »

Have ye any diagrams what's under that cover. I've a 3000 that the lift isn't working. From what I've read a sticky return valve or overflow value. Can hear pump going but no movement on it. Think it's stuck about 1/3 of way up.

Stick the following into google and you will get a pdf of the tractor manual. It's pretty good.

Verkstadshandbok_Ford_2_3_4000

TomOnBoard

Ive a fair few 12 inch lengths of 1/2 inch rebar from a bit of a shed project. Is there any way to gunter them into springiness so that I could use them as teeth on a landscape rake project I'm planning?

I've got a 6ft. length of 5 * 2 " RSJ that I'm going to use as the weighted horizontal member to which I will be cowboying a 3 point connection. I was hoping to use the rebar cutoffs as springy tines, but at the minute, they'd be more like rubber carrots...

blue5000

TomOnBoard wrote: »

Ive a fair few 12 inch lengths of 1/2 inch rebar from a bit of a shed project. Is there any way to gunter them into springiness so that I could use them as teeth on a landscape rake project I'm planning?

I've got a 6ft. length of 5 * 2 " RSJ that I'm going to use as the weighted horizontal member to which I will be cowboying a 3 point connection. I was hoping to use the rebar cutoffs as springy tines, but at the minute, they'd be more like rubber carrots...

Re-bars vary a lot in quality, carbon and tempering give steel it's hardness.