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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,946 ✭✭✭dzer2


    Muckit wrote: »
    Ten Pin wrote: »
    Possibly...
    - Air getting in through cracked fuel line in tank

    - Partially blocked screen / gauze on the pump side of the carb, it's down in a recessed port and this is where any dirt accumulates. Depending on the carb, it's probably on the opposite side to that shown in the pic.

    That little screen wasn't bad but l replaced it with a new one along with new gaskets and metering diaphragm from genuine walbro kit after giving carb body a good clean.

    Now it could still be the carb, but I'd be disgusted if it was after all my faffing!

    Replacing fuel lines is my next port of call! After that I'm flat out of ideas! I have them ordered so hoping it does the trick!
    Is it 2 stroke


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    dzer2 wrote: »
    Is it 2 stroke

    Yes


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,037 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    Ten Pin wrote: »
    There's usually some sort of vent on the fuel tank to allow air into the tank as the fuel is consumed. The vent might be clogged with dust, just needs to be cleaned.
    I must check that as I 've noticed on both saw and strimmer the fuel caps are almost impossible to un screw when half full /empty


  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭satstheway


    Muckit wrote: »
    It's a brushcutter. Will start no problem hot or cold but bogs down when you go give it some trottle. It's obviously starved of fuel.

    Have a stihl saw here and it would start as normal and bog down when you tried to throttle it fully. It was the rubber fuel pipe inside the tank and service man said it's very common.


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Some fuel pipes when they get old collapse from the suction, check tank filter on end of hose as well. Have rebuilt cards before and they didn't work until the brother got an ultrasonic cleaner great job, you would think they are clean til you drop it in. Petrol over time turns into a varnish like substance inside the carb. Also check exhaust for spark arrestor screen these can clog up with carbon.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Some fuel pipes when they get old collapse from the suction, check tank filter on end of hose as well. Have rebuilt cards before and they didn't work until the brother got an ultrasonic cleaner great job, you would think they are clean til you drop it in. Petrol over time turns into a varnish like substance inside the carb. Also check exhaust for spark arrestor screen these can clog up with carbon.

    Would u believe l bought a small ultrasonic cleaner and have ran the carb through it. As you say l did find petrol varnish. There could well be more in one of the ports. What does your brother clean the parts in? I used boiling water and cillit bang.
    The spark arrrestor is clean as a whistle.


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Muckit wrote: »
    Would u believe l bought a small ultrasonic cleaner and have ran the carb through it. As you say l did find petrol varnish. There could well be more in one of the ports. What does your brother clean the parts in? I used boiling water and cillit bang.
    The spark arrrestor is clean as a whistle.

    I will find out over the weekend I think it's water and some sort of cleaner. Another thing is have you changed the spark plug have seen ones that work fine cold but spark can jump due to cracked ceramic when it gets hot.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Good man. Yes l got new plugs (greensparkplug co online) but never gor round to changing it!
    I will do this when get a chance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Base price wrote: »
    I was using my brothers strimmer a couple of weeks ago and it started doing the same. I phoned him to see what the problem was and he told me to open the petrol cap a bit. For some reason the seal is causing pressure to build up and starving it of fuel. He has the strimmer 14 or 15 years and never had problems with it before. His is a Honda.

    Sorry missed your post. I hear what u are saying. Could easily be my issue too. Will give it a try! Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Ok changed spark plug and loosened petrol cap. Hasn't made a blind bit of difference!

    So we're back to a dirty carb or bad fuel lines.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    I hate to say itbut l still think it's carb :(

    patsy as regards tuning, there are no obvious high/low screws on this carb. But l think there's a plug blocking low screw in middle of throttle lever. Will give a better look again after a while.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,946 ✭✭✭dzer2


    Muckit wrote: »
    Ok changed spark plug and loosened petrol cap. Hasn't made a blind bit of difference!

    So we're back to a dirty carb or bad fuel lines.

    Check the 2 stroke mixture I have a husq one here and have to add a little extra oil to the mixture. It would start no problem when cold and run fine as soon as it got hot the power would die and then after I filled it no way would it start. The extra oil fixed this.


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Did you check the setting of the metering needle flap that moves it in and out should be flush with the surrounding body of carburettor usually. Place end of a ruler across it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,218 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Muckit wrote: »
    Ok changed spark plug and loosened petrol cap. Hasn't made a blind bit of difference!

    So we're back to a dirty carb or bad fuel lines.

    You really need someone, or someway, to do a crank case compression test. Symptoms sound like a leaking seal on the crankshaft bearings, especially since youve covered almost every other possibility.
    Just check the pulse tube between the carb and the crankcase is 100%, as this acts as the petrol pump to get fuel from the tank to the carb.


  • Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭bamayang


    Jaysus some thread. Where else would ya get that kind of knowledge/experience for nothing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    The amount of knowledge and experience on this forum is unreal. Sometimes easy forget it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,774 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Below is a Stihl Carburetor. The two screws (on springs) on the bottom control the fuel mixture, one at low revs, the other at high revs.

    The 3rd screw, at the top, is just a dead stop when you let go of the throttle. It controls the idling speed of the saw. It doesn't control the lean/rich mixture at all.



    Carburetor-for-Zama-Ms250-Ms250-1123-29b-439A.jpg

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Here's my little walbro off the strimmers


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,774 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Muckit wrote: »
    Here's my little walbro off the strimmers
    If no screws, tuning must be factory set so.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Right. So out to the shed l go again!
    I found the L and H speed screws. Little plastic cap covering the buggers.
    I turned the H (well at least l think this is H... someone correct me if I'm wrong?) out half a turn and... bingo!
    Sorted!
    Thanks to everyone for their input!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10,774 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Muckit, those screws vibrate loose. They do on my chainsaw anyway. The springs are meant to stop that. I've taken mine off and ran a knife blade across the threads but they still come loose. Was thinking of squeezing them in a vice a little.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    I was determined to solve this myself. To do this l had to educate myself as l knew sweet FA about carbs!!

    But as a farmer we all nearly have chainsaws, strimmers etc, so it seems obvious that we should know how to service them! Even just know the basics and be able to toubleshoot.

    I find boards.ie great. I don't really watch telly anymore. Watch youtube instead and some excellent videos on there, depending on what's on my mind at thr time If you want to learn about 2strokes, u could do worsr than to check out "Steves small engine Saloon" channel. He's Canadian and is very good, explains things well.

    There's always the days where l can't get near the farm but having small jobs like this that l can do in the back kitchen or garage is great. 10mins here, 10min there. It's surprising. You'd eat an elephant one bite at a time.

    Then eventually you get sorted and there's sone buzz off that. Great satisfaction in knowing you have a yoke ready to go when you do get a chance to use it!!

    I've tried explaining this to herself, but she just looks at me like l've a screw loose! But l know ye get what l mean!! :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Muckit, those screws vibrate loose. They do on my chainsaw anyway. The springs are meant to stop that. I've taken mine off and ran a knife blade across the threads but they still come loose. Was thinking of squeezing them in a vice a little.

    You are 100% Thats what happened too l reckon. At least l know what to do now when it happens again. A small thing when u know what it is and how to remedy it!
    Running a mark is a good idea. Must do that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Muckit wrote: »
    I was determined to solve this myself. To do this l had to educate myself as l knew sweet FA about carbs!!

    But as a farmer we all nearly have chainsaws, strimmers etc, so it seems obvious that we should know how to service them! Even just know the basics and be able to toubleshoot.

    I find boards.ie great. I don't really watch telly anymore. Watch youtube instead and some excellent videos on there, depending on what's on my mind at thr time If you want to learn about 2strokes, u could do worsr than to check out "Steves small engine Saloon" channel. He's Canadian and is very good, explains things well.

    There's always the days where l can't get near the farm but having small jobs like this that l can do in the back kitchen or garage is great. 10mins here, 10min there. It's surprising. You'd eat an elephant one bite at a time.

    Then eventually you get sorted and there's sone buzz off that. Great satisfaction in knowing you have a yoke ready to go when you do get a chance to use it!!

    I've tried explaining this to herself, but she just looks at me like l've a screw loose! But l know ye get what l mean!! :D

    It's all very true. Now nearly time for you to get out there and rebuild that tractor engine and while you're at it transmission requires an overhaul and brake disks could do with replacing. :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    emaherx wrote: »
    It's all very true. Now nearly time for you to get out there and rebuild that tractor engine and while you're at it transmission requires an overhaul and brake disks could do with replacing. :D

    Haha!! Well l tell you what l have. A 135 that hasn't been started in a year. I've to get new battery leads and bleed her. I could be back to pick your brains there!! ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Muckit wrote: »
    Haha!! Well l tell you what l have. A 135 that hasn't been started in a year. I've to get new battery leads and bleed her. I could be back to pick your brains there!! ;)

    Funny enough I'd pick sorting problems with an old Perkins Diesel over a small petrol engine any day. Well done on sorting your issue.


  • Registered Users Posts: 243 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Muckit wrote: »
    You are 100% Thats what happened too l reckon. At least l know what to do now when it happens again. A small thing when u know what it is and how to remedy it!
    Running a mark is a good idea. Must do that.

    Dab of tipex or nail varnish into the hole on top of screw and onto side of hole usually stops them moving. Donyboy73 has some good repair videos on YouTube as well.


  • Registered Users Posts: 942 ✭✭✭RobinBanks


    I need to remove this feeding barrier. As you can see it's recessed into the wall and welded onto the girder. Ideally I would cut it off flush with girder. Any ideas how I would go about it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,446 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    RobinBanks wrote: »
    I need to remove this feeding barrier. As you can see it's recessed into the wall and welded onto the girder. Ideally I would cut it off flush with girder. Any ideas how I would go about it?

    No access to gas?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 942 ✭✭✭RobinBanks


    Reggie. wrote: »
    No access to gas?

    Sorry. Should have mentioned no gas in the village!


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