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Labour Saving and General Guntering
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I do apologise if my short answer somehow offended you but sometimes I don't have time for a long post. Was just letting the poster know I did make one. To which I will return to once I get all in info together and time to write it but I knew once I sent that post that someone would kick up over it as there's always one.
Next time ill get everything to grind to a halt just so I can give a very long and detailed post to whoever needs it. That work for you?
When have ya found me not to be helpful?
And MuckIt gets away with it again!
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MickeyShtyles wrote: »And MuckIt gets away with it again!
To be fair what do ya expect from a pig only a grunt 0 -
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Right. Pics of the block below. It's dimensions are roughly 19"×23"×36" which gives ya somewhere in the region of .5 to .75 of a ton depending on the concrete mix.
I made it by making a box out of plywood. Screw the 4 sides together and put on 3 rachet straps for support. Made two slots to slide a 9 hole bar through it. Then weld bits of rebar or scrap iron inside the box to give the concrete support.
I welded some box iron straight up from the 9 hole bar and welded the top eyes to that for the toplink. Weld rebar or scrap iron off this so the weight block can support itself.
It took roughly 6 mixers of concrete to fill the box. Let the concrete mix well in the mixer before you put it in as you only get one shot at it. When you put in each mixerfull make sure to tap it down well so no air pockets or gaps are formed weakening it. Tighten the sachet straps as you fill it for support.
When you get to the top it's worth adding a bevel as when you lift the weight angle of the toplink can hit the weights edge nearest the tractor.
When finished leave the box a week before removing the straps, screws and plywood sides. I then left it another 2 weeks to cure just to be safe.
Remember where ever you do this the ground has to be level underneath and it doesnt want be moved for 3 to 4 weeks. A corner of a shed would be ideal away from the elements.
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Right. Pics of the block below. It's dimensions are roughly 19"×23"×36" which gives ya somewhere in the region of .5 to .75 of a ton depending on the concrete mix.
I made it by making a box out of plywood. Screw the 4 sides together and put on 3 rachet straps for support. Made two slots to slide a 9 hole bar through it. Then weld bits of rebar or scrap iron inside the box to give the concrete support.
I welded some box iron straight up from the 9 hole bar and welded the top eyes to that for the toplink. Weld rebar or scrap iron off this so the weight block can support itself.
It took roughly 6 mixers of concrete to fill the box. Let the concrete mix well in the mixer before you put it in as you only get one shot at it. When you put in each mixerfull make sure to tap it down well so no air pockets or gaps are formed weakening it. Tighten the sachet straps as you fill it for support.
When you get to the top it's worth adding a bevel as when you lift the weight angle of the toplink can hit the weights edge nearest the tractor.
When finished leave the box a week before removing the straps, screws and plywood sides. I then left it another 2 weeks to cure just to be safe.
Remember where ever you do this the ground has to be level underneath and it doesnt want be moved for 3 to 4 weeks. A corner of a shed would be ideal away from the elements.
It would be more effective if it was further back from the tractor, it's very close to the tractor if it's a counter weight. mine was a two wheel drive tractor so I was trying to lift weight off the front axle, which it did, it lifted the front wheels if the loader was empty0 -
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