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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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    #5072
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Say my name wrote: »
    Am I the only one scratching my head on this one?

    Isn't the back end where the hydraulic oil goes?
    The front - engine gets the other oil?

    I'm seriously wondering now if I've ruined every tractor there's been here.
    Maybe I'll wake up in a few minutes.

    No... And depends on tractor, propper hydraulic oil is no good for lubrication of transmission or cooling of brakes. Tractors which use the same oil for hydraulics/transmission/oil emersed brakes do not use hydraulic oil they use universal oil some even can use same oil in engine.

    To the Farrier although your probably OK, 3 to 4 liters is a good bit, if it was me I'd change it to be sure, your oil will be a good bit lighter than it's meant to be.


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    #5073
    blue5000
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,664 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    TheFarrier wrote: »
    No sorry it was three to four liters. Topped up with transmission just now it’s about 75% transmission now I’m just worried about the brakes

    You can buy anti-squawk additive and put in about a half litre if the brakes start shuddering/squealing.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



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    #5074
    Say my name
    Registered Users Posts: 11,497 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    emaherx wrote: »
    No... And depends on tractor, propper hydraulic oil is no good for lubrication of transmission or cooling of brakes. Tractors which use the same oil for hydraulics/transmission/oil emersed brakes do not use hydraulic oil they use universal oil some even can use same oil in engine.

    To the Farrier although your probably OK, 3 to 4 liters is a good bit, if it was me I'd change it to be sure, your oil will be a good bit lighter than it's meant to be.

    But the oil for the hydraulics goes in that little screw off cap on the back end of a mf 4255.
    Correct?

    Edit: I 'll answer myself. That's correct SMN. :rolleyes:


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    #5075
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Say my name wrote: »
    But the oil for the hydraulics goes in that little screw off cap on the back end of a mf 4255.
    Correct?

    Don't know where the filler is on 4255 but I'm fairly sure it takes super universal oil 15w30 or 10w30 which is not the same as the hydraulic oil that the Farrier put in.


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    #5076
    Say my name
    Registered Users Posts: 11,497 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    emaherx wrote: »
    Don't know where the filler is on 4255 but I'm fairly sure it takes super universal oil 15w30 or 10w30 which is not the same as the hydraulic oil that the Farrier put in.

    It's just below the cab above the back end.

    I always put hydraulic oil in the back end of the 4270 I had and the thicker engine oil for the front all right.
    Maybe I did wrong?
    I couldn't tell you the viscosity but my mechanics were adamant that it take different oils for each end.
    But I put universal oil in both ends of a Ford 7610 alright.


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    #5077
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Say my name wrote: »
    It's just below the cab above the back end.

    I always put hydraulic oil in the back end of the 4270 I had and the thicker engine oil for the front all right.
    Maybe I did wrong?
    I couldn't tell you the viscosity but my mechanics were adamant that it take different oils for each end.
    But I put universal oil in both ends of a Ford 7610 alright.


    Well maybe the Farrier can relax a bit. He's mixed about 3 liters hydraulic oil into 47 liters of universal.

    But I think you were using the wrong oil. The wrong oil is unlikely to cause catastrophic failure in the hydraulic system but more likely shorten the life of pumps, seals and brakes (by how much is anyone's guess)

    If your reservoir is essentially your back axle/gearbox then it's more likely super universal oil.


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    #5078
    Say my name
    Registered Users Posts: 11,497 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    emaherx wrote: »
    Well maybe the Farrier can relax a bit. He's mixed about 3 liters hydraulic oil into 47 liters of universal.

    But I think you were using the wrong oil. The wrong oil is unlikely to cause catastrophic failure in the hydraulic system but more likely shorten the life of pumps, seals and brakes (by how much is anyone's guess)

    If your reservoir is essentially your back axle/gearbox then it's more likely super universal oil.
    10w - 30 for the back and 15w - 40 for the front.
    That was for the mf here.

    How does that sound?

    What number or viscosity would you call hydraulic oil?


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    #5079
    patsy_mccabe
    Registered Users Posts: 10,773 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Ya, that's it in a nutshell. Wrong oil better than no oil, but better to put in the right stuff.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



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    #5080
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Say my name wrote: »
    10w - 30 for the back and 15w - 40 for the front.
    That was for the mf here.

    How does that sound?

    What number or viscosity would you call hydraulic oil?

    That sounds like universal oil, it's your engine that needs the "different" oil.


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    #5081
    patsy_mccabe
    Registered Users Posts: 10,773 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Hydraulic oils.
    https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/iso-grade-oil-d_1207.html

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



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    #5082
    Say my name
    Registered Users Posts: 11,497 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    emaherx wrote: »
    That sounds like universal oil, it's your engine that needs the "different" oil.

    What's transmission oil then?
    I had one (empty) drum of that 15w 40 and the rest of the (empty) drums were just labelled transmission oil on the container for the front.
    And what's hydraulic oil?
    You said the hydraulic oil he used wasn't 10w 30.

    Sorry for all the questions.


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    #5083
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Say my name wrote: »
    What's transmission oil then?
    I had one (empty) drum of that 15w 40 and the rest of the (empty) drums were just labelled transmission oil on the container for the front.
    And what's hydraulic oil?
    You said the hydraulic oil he used wasn't 10w 30.

    Sorry for all the questions.

    Hydraulic oil is normally marked with something like H or ISO followed by a number. H32 for example is probably the closest thing to 10w30 in weight however it is missing additives required for brakes, clutch packs and for clinging to the gears in a gearbox as they rotate.

    H46 is probably the most common Hydraulic oil as it is used in most diggers and many tractors.

    Hydraulic oil is meant for hydraulic systems only.
    Transmission oil is meant for gearboxes only.
    And universal oil is meant for both but the particular hydraulic / transmission system should specify it.


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    #5084
    patsy_mccabe
    Registered Users Posts: 10,773 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    I worked with a lot of industrial hydraulics and it was all 'ISO 46' we used. Same as H46, I'd imagine.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



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    #5085
    Figerty
    Registered Users Posts: 2,241 ✭✭✭Figerty


    patsy_mccabe wrote: »
    I worked with a lot of industrial hydraulics and it was all 'ISO 46' we used. Same as H46, I'd imagine.

    From what I know. Lower viscosity oils are used in colder climater (or winters)
    Higher viscosity (thicker) oils are used in hotter climates as the viscosity drops when the temperature rises.

    ISO 46 suits Ireland


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    #5086
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Figerty wrote: »
    From what I know. Lower viscosity oils are used in colder climater (or winters)
    Higher viscosity (thicker) oils are used in hotter climates as the viscosity drops when the temperature rises.

    ISO 46 suits Ireland

    Don't know if that's the only consideration concerning viscosity but many machine manufacturers will recommend a heavier or lighter oil depending on temperature and/or altitude same is true of engine oils.


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    #5087
    9935452
    Registered Users Posts: 2,757 ✭✭✭9935452


    emaherx wrote: »
    Say my name wrote: »
    What's transmission oil then?
    I had one (empty) drum of that 15w 40 and the rest of the (empty) drums were just labelled transmission oil on the container for the front.
    And what's hydraulic oil?
    You said the hydraulic oil he used wasn't 10w 30.

    Sorry for all the questions.

    Hydraulic oil is normally marked with something like H or ISO followed by a number. H32 for example is probably the closest thing to 10w30 in weight however it is missing additives required for brakes, clutch packs and for clinging to the gears in a gearbox as they rotate.

    H46 is probably the most common Hydraulic oil as it is used in most diggers and many tractors.

    Hydraulic oil is meant for hydraulic systems only.
    Transmission oil is meant for gearboxes only.
    And universal oil is meant for both but the particular hydraulic / transmission system should specify it.

    Just to confuse things more.
    You also have transmission fluid . ATF.

    You have super universal oil too.
    Some companies spec it for use in engines too
    https://www.agridirect.ie/product/super-universal-oil-15w30


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    #5088
    TheFarrier
    Registered Users Posts: 611 ✭✭✭TheFarrier


    Thanks for all the advise


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    #5089
    emaherx
    Registered Users Posts: 6,115 ✭✭✭emaherx


    9935452 wrote: »
    Just to confuse things more.
    You also have transmission fluid . ATF.

    You have super universal oil too.
    Some companies spec it for use in engines too
    https://www.agridirect.ie/product/super-universal-oil-15w30

    Well to confuse things more ATF is often used in steering systems.


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    #5090
    Jeff2
    Registered Users Posts: 7,074 ✭✭✭Jeff2


    Hidrolic oil is tin.

    It's tin so it flows fast like brake fluid.

    Why would you risk it.


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    #5091
    visatorro
    Registered Users Posts: 3,243 ✭✭✭visatorro


    I find if your not sure go to your main dealer. Tell them what you need. It may be dearer but it's cheaper than a new engine or back end. Same with filters. Seen lads putting the wrong micron filter on and starving pumps.


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    #5092
    whelan2
    Registered Users Posts: 29,517 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    visatorro wrote: »
    I find if your not sure go to your main dealer. Tell them what you need. It may be dearer but it's cheaper than a new engine or back end. Same with filters. Seen lads putting the wrong micron filter on and starving pumps.

    You can get spurious filters off main dealer too.


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    #5093
    mayo_lad
    Registered Users Posts: 562 ✭✭✭mayo_lad


    The auld lad was complaining that their wasn't enough light behind the new tractor for cutting silage during the night.

    So I had to whip up this extra light for the shear grab,
    It mounts on the old holder for the valve chest the light is powered by the 7 pin tractor light


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    #5094
    mengele
    Registered Users Posts: 876 ✭✭✭mengele


    mayo_lad wrote: »
    The auld lad was complaining that their wasn't enough light behind the new tractor for cutting silage during the night.

    So I had to whip up this extra light for the shear grab,
    It mounts on the old holder for the valve chest the light is powered by the 7 pin tractor light

    Easy way out of it and good thinking.


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    #5095
    Muckit
    Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    blue5000 wrote: »
    You can buy anti-squawk additive and put in about a half litre if the brakes start shuddering/squealing.

    Twas a common problem with Fiats


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    #5096
    Muckit
    Registered Users Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    mayo_lad wrote: »
    The auld lad was complaining that their wasn't enough light behind the new tractor for cutting silage during the night.

    So I had to whip up this extra light for the shear grab,
    It mounts on the old holder for the valve chest the light is powered by the 7 pin tractor light

    I did it on mine a few years ago and posted here too :D wired it through 7pin plug and all!


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    #5097
    wrangler
    Registered Users Posts: 11,142 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    I'm replacing the shutters over the outside troughs on the cattle shed, making 15 by 4ft frame and sheeting it and hanging it over the trough.
    Anyway my problem is that the paint is taking days to dry, I didn't use primer on the first two shutters and thought that was the problem, but I've used primer on the next three and it dried grand, I painted with green oxide yesterday morning and this evening I still couldn't handle it..... any ideas


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    #5098
    Nekarsulm
    Registered Users Posts: 11,218 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Too cold for the solvents to evaporate?
    Could you stand them up in a small shed and point a space heater at them?


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    #5099
    enricoh
    Registered Users Posts: 4,919 ✭✭✭enricoh


    If you put 10-15% hardener into ithe paint it'll dry in no time. U'll get it in any paint shop or mitor factors.
    Just put it into the paint u'll use not the 20l drum.


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    #5100
    wrangler
    Registered Users Posts: 11,142 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    enricoh wrote: »
    If you put 10-15% hardener into ithe paint it'll dry in no time. U'll get it in any paint shop or mitor factors.
    Just put it into the paint u'll use not the 20l drum.

    Alas, the steel is already painted, I may just wait for the spring temperature rise, no space heater here either


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    #5101
    enricoh
    Registered Users Posts: 4,919 ✭✭✭enricoh


    wrangler wrote: »
    Alas, the steel is already painted, I may just wait for the spring temperature rise, no space heater here either

    Ah yeah this time of the year takes ages to dry, it'll get there though!


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