Labour Saving and General Guntering

Limestone Cowboy

Donald Trump wrote: »

Looks like a good job. Would you not have put one or two bars down on the other side to allow you to put a bar in across to keep a small number tight in it later? Or even left a few slots out of the wall to allow you to slide a bar through?

I was just going to bore out holes after.

foxy farmer

Man 2 town lands over carrying out Labour saving on a grand scale. Installing 54 unit rotary parlour coming from a 30 unit herringbone.
https://i.imgur.com/3lh8z6H.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/1mpHyUb.jpg

sandydan

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

Pic.

is the walkway outside bars at same level as inside, reason i ask is mine is and some vets tell me it shoud be higher and another says not, too dangerous if animal goes down which has happened a number of times
neighbour of mine has a cow tether chain similar to old type stall to keep animal in place rather than head in gate eg for a i. he also has that gate with similar chain in calving pen so cow can lie down but not get up and walk around while calving when needing assistance

Sami23

Limestone Cowboy wrote: »

It's only for a cattle crush for myself . Myself and a friend were doing it.

Neat looking job.
Have to tackle a crush myself in the new year.
What height is the top bar and what width is it from wall to bar on yours if you don't mind me asking?

Limestone Cowboy

sandydan wrote: »

is the walkway outside bars at same level as inside, reason i ask is mine is and some vets tell me it shoud be higher and another says not, too dangerous if animal goes down which has happened a number of times
neighbour of mine has a cow tether chain similar to old type stall to keep animal in place rather than head in gate eg for a i. he also has that gate with similar chain in calving pen so cow can lie down but not get up and walk around while calving when needing assistance

Just a 4" step in it. You'd want it, the bars are fairly high.

Limestone Cowboy

Sami23 wrote: »

Neat looking job.
Have to tackle a crush myself in the new year.
What height is the top bar and what width is it from wall to bar on yours if you don't mind me asking?

It's 28" wide, you have to work with whatever width the headgate is anyway. The top bar is around 4'6".

Lime Tree Farm

Sami23 wrote: »

Neat looking job.
Have to tackle a crush myself in the new year.
What height is the top bar and what width is it from wall to bar on yours if you don't mind me asking?

You should consider having heavy duty/custom made gates between the uprights. Very handy if an animal goes down in the crush, or to release a single animal from the group in a crush.

blue5000

Mod note I moved the bench comments to it's own thread, https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058036592

emaherx

blue5000 wrote: »

Mod note I moved the bench comments to it's own thread, https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2058036592

Well it's often been joked about but that's the first time something has been removed from this thread for being too good

Micheal H

emaherx wrote: »

Well it's often been joked about but that's the first time something has been removed from this thread for being too good

Haha.. first time? Well I'm honoured

I've started a proper guntering job today. Will post a pic when it's done in a few days, but it definitely won't be good enough for it's own thread this time

stock>

Micheal H wrote: »

Haha.. first time? Well I'm honoured

I've started a proper guntering job today. Will post a pic when it's done in a few days, but it definitely won't be good enough for it's own thread this time

Jeasus if it a good as the last job we will have to petition the moderators to have you banned from the guntering thread...........................................

emaherx

Micheal H wrote: »

Haha.. first time? Well I'm honoured

I've started a proper guntering job today. Will post a pic when it's done in a few days, but it definitely won't be good enough for it's own thread this time

Well deserved to be fair, will look forward to seeing more "guntering"

TheFarrier

Stable doors need replacing.

What do ye find best for fixing the frame into a stone wall??
Thinking expansion bolts or coach bolts and plugs

I used coach bolts and chemical anchor for the girlfriends stable but the cost of the stuff is putting me off for my own it was fine for her one but I’ve 12 to do

Thanks

wrangler

TheFarrier wrote: »

Stable doors need replacing.

What do ye find best for fixing the frame into a stone wall??
Thinking expansion bolts or coach bolts and plugs

I used coach bolts and chemical anchor for the girlfriends stable but the cost of the stuff is putting me off for my own it was fine for her one but I’ve 12 to do

Thanks

I use these or similar all the time

https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/masonry-plugs-anchors-fixings/9086918?cm_mmc=IE-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_IE_EN_Fasteners_And_Fixings-_-Wall_Plugs_And_Anchors_And_Fixings_And_Kits%7CMasonry_Plugs_And_Anchors_And_Fixings-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-392456406649&gclid=CjwKCAiAob3vBRAUEiwAIbs5To7U1UdcZj8zcAJKpl8afUUaWSKvkVTupF-hACCMC0Rm8jhEo9aD6xoCUb4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

patsy_mccabe

wrangler wrote: »

I use these or similar all the time......

All the COOPS should have them. I'd be worried they'd crack the natural stone though.

TheFarrier

wrangler wrote: »

I use these or similar all the time

https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/masonry-plugs-anchors-fixings/9086918?cm_mmc=IE-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_IE_EN_Fasteners_And_Fixings-_-Wall_Plugs_And_Anchors_And_Fixings_And_Kits%7CMasonry_Plugs_And_Anchors_And_Fixings-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-392456406649&gclid=CjwKCAiAob3vBRAUEiwAIbs5To7U1UdcZj8zcAJKpl8afUUaWSKvkVTupF-hACCMC0Rm8jhEo9aD6xoCUb4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thanks
Yeah was thinking about these but as Patsy said I’d be afraid the stone would crack and the door frame would pull out and sag or worse a horse could drive his way out.
Maybe the chemical anchor is the job. Threaded bar instead of coach bolts and could tighten the nut after once the glue had set. Anyone done similar??


Or have you used the shield anchors on stone before wrangler??

wrangler

TheFarrier wrote: »

Thanks
Yeah was thinking about these but as Patsy said I’d be afraid the stone would crack and the door frame would pull out and sag or worse a horse could drive his way out.
Maybe the chemical anchor is the job. Threaded bar instead of coach bolts and could tighten the nut after once the glue had set. Anyone done similar??


Or have you used the shield anchors on stone before wrangler??

yae I used them in an old stone walled yard that I have, never bursted a stone.
Threaded bar would be a good idea if you could drill though it easy

TheFarrier

wrangler wrote: »

yae I used them in an old stone walled yard that I have, never bursted a stone.
Threaded bar would be a good idea if you could drill though it easy

I’d never drill through, walls are 3ft thick. Might chance the expansion bolts sure if the stone cracks I can go plan b then
Thanks

wrangler

TheFarrier wrote: »

I’d never drill through, walls are 3ft thick. Might chance the expansion bolts sure if the stone cracks I can go plan b then
Thanks

I use mostly 12 by 70 anchor bolts, they seem to get a good grip, the stone here is hard limestone.
Motorway construction guys way underestimated what it'd cost to remove from the path of the motorway.

Iprobably needn't tell you not to put the bolts near the edge or you will crack off a corner

Nekarsulm

Coach screw and a matching Rawl-plug will do the job the best into a stone ( as long as you use the matching drill size.
There's a limit to the pressure they put on, unlike a rawl-bolt.

Lime Tree Farm

Anything of use to you here : I think it is a US forum

https://www.doityourself.com/stry/drilling-a-stone-wall-for-construction

jimini0

Threaded bold and chemical anchor. The best for stone less chance of splitting the stone or if you get into a joint the anchor is great

Hagimalone

A square post hanger is good, you can bore the hole anywhere (the easiest spot possible) and make hanger to fit.
Going by your user name you should be well able to produce same.
Just set the spud in concrete.

TheFarrier

Hagimalone wrote: »

A square post hanger is good, you can bore the hole anywhere (the easiest spot possible) and make hanger to fit.
Going by your user name you should be well able to produce same.
Just set the spud in concrete.

Thought about this too. Some few of the doorways have the original heel stone still in place at the bottom of the door way.

I made a forged gate for a client last year, I though about doing a few more in place of stable doors, thought they’d look really well in the old stone stables.

But after I made that one I swore I’d never do another. But of course in the spirit of guntering the brain keeps coming up with refinements to the original effort.

Only drawback is if I go the effort of a forged gate again and one of dads foals injured himself in the gate I’d be hung drawn and quartered

Odelay

TheFarrier wrote: »

Thought about this too. Some few of the doorways have the original heel stone still in place at the bottom of the door way.

I made a forged gate for a client last year, I though about doing a few more in place of stable doors, thought they’d look really well in the old stone stables.

But after I made that one I swore I’d never do another. But of course in the spirit of guntering the brain keeps coming up with refinements to the original effort.

Only drawback is if I go the effort of a forged gate again and one of dads foals injured himself in the gate I’d be hung drawn and quartered

They gate would be a definite disaster.
Doors with a good strap iron hinge across them are a great job.

TheFarrier

Odelay wrote: »

They gate would be a definite disaster.
Doors with a good strap iron hinge across them are a great job.

I’ve seen similar gates in stables in a clients yard, they look lovely but I wouldn’t have the balls to risk something getting caught in one at home.

I knocked a cross self tapping concrete screws online, apparently work in stone too, anyone any experience with these in stone??

49801

TheFarrier wrote: »

Stable doors need replacing.

What do ye find best for fixing the frame into a stone wall??
Thinking expansion bolts or coach bolts and plugs

I used coach bolts and chemical anchor for the girlfriends stable but the cost of the stuff is putting me off for my own it was fine for her one but I’ve 12 to do

Thanks

For old stone wall drive a wooden wedge in between the stones.... then attach frame to these.

Bullocks

Concrete screws are brilliant , easy to use simple and go up to a good size .
Just bore the hole the correct diameter for the size screw you're using and screw it in or ratchet it in if you use the bolt sized one

Bullocks

https://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/p/spit-tapcon-ldt-10mm-and-12mm-concrete-screw/p-e17025?taxdispinc=y&gclid=CjwKCAiAob3vBRAUEiwAIbs5Ts2CUjDgwsT1F2v4chQRxbJcPyhbGsq

These lads are plenty heavy for the job I'd say

Micheal H

So the new Hustler arrived last week and it's a bit heavy for my little Landini when there's a full bale on the back. Didn't really fancy using the brakes to steer for the next 5 months, so some weights on the front was needed. Have a set of New Holland weights that don't get used for the winter, and didn't fancy forking out 400 quid on Landini weights, so guntering up an adaptor was in order!

Pulled any bits of channel, plate and angle I could find that would suit the job out of the off-cuts bin. Then out with the gas to get everything bent into shape.

Pre assembly:



Finished Job:





Weights in place. Should keep all 4 wheels on the ground now and save the brakes!