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Labour Saving and General Guntering

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,145 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    497417.jpg[/quote]

    Ah here that's not guntering..... looks like a first class bit of engineering to me.... well done.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,981 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    TheFarrier wrote: »
    I’ve seen similar gates in stables in a clients yard, they look lovely but I wouldn’t have the balls to risk something getting caught in one at home.

    I knocked a cross self tapping concrete screws online, apparently work in stone too, anyone any experience with these in stone??


    Used them a few times to hang shelves, none have fallen down but i would'nt sleep under them!

    Chemical anchor and threaded bar are the best job, remove any fine dust from the hole and give it plenty of time to set and those things will never move.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    jimmy G M wrote: »
    497417.jpg

    Ah here that's not guntering..... looks like a first class bit of engineering to me.... well done.[/quote]
    We'll have to open The Michael H Fabrication Thread.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,773 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Michael H - Great job.
    How did you make the very top piece? It looks like you cut V notches in the sides of the channel, bent it around and then welded it.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,594 ✭✭✭memorystick


    Anyone know what 3inch angle is costing at the minute? May need around 150 feet. Thanks


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  • Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>




  • Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭Micheal H


    jimmy G M wrote: »

    Ah here that's not guntering..... looks like a first class bit of engineering to me.... well done.

    Thanks jimmy. If everything for it comes from the scraps bin I'd call it guntering, but I'm starting to think I don't have the same definition as everyone else :D
    We'll have to open The Michael H Fabrication Thread.

    Ha! Well whatever thing I make next I'll consider making a new thread for it and not sully the guntering thread :D
    Michael H - Great job.
    How did you make the very top piece? It looks like you cut V notches in the sides of the channel, bent it around and then welded it.

    Cheers Patsy. Yep, that's exactly what I did. Easiest way to bend it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,063 ✭✭✭riemann


    Micheal H wrote: »


    Finished Job:
    497416.jpg

    Tidy looking welds.

    I know you said you used gas, but could you recommend an arc welder?

    Looking to pick one up a portable one for light jobs around the farm.


  • Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭Micheal H


    riemann wrote: »
    Tidy looking welds.

    I know you said you used gas, but could you recommend an arc welder?

    Looking to pick one up a portable one for light jobs around the farm.


    The last small arc welder I bought was over 10 years ago from this crowd: https://technicalarc.co.uk/product/dc-arc-welding-inverters/

    I have the MMA206i, 200A machine. It's a very basic, no bells and whistles welder, but has dealt with anything I threw at it over the years. The only time it ever missed a beat was when I was welding with 4mm 7018 rods at 190A on a very warm day. Thermal protection kicked in after about half an hour. Gave it 10 mins to cool down and it was good to go again.

    I'd find it hard to recommend any specific brands or models of current machines on the market. Most of the small entry level inverter arc welders now are built in the same one or two factories and just rebadged for a particular brand. Some of them will have better components than others, but essentially for the budget welders most of them will be almost identical machines.

    Go for a machine with a good duty cycle - over 35/40% ideally at it's maximum output current. And if your budget allows go for a more powerful welder than you think you'll need.

    So if you think the most you'll want is a 130amp welder, go for a 160 amp. Always better to have that extra bit of headroom and have the machine running at it's ease instead of running it at full whack and then having it's thermal protection kick in after a few minutes.

    But you could pick pretty much any welder from the well known brands and they'll do the job for you. If you can get one with a 2 or even 3 year warranty it's a bonus and a bit of peace of mind in case something does go wrong with it.

    Sorry, not much help narrowing down a choice for you!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,063 ✭✭✭riemann


    Micheal H wrote: »
    But you could pick pretty much any welder from the well known brands and they'll do the job for you. If you can get one with a 2 or even 3 year warranty it's a bonus and a bit of peace of mind in case something does go wrong with it.

    Sorry, not much help narrowing down a choice for you!

    Thanks for that. What would be reputable brands?

    I don't even know the brand of the one I have as the cover was removed years ago!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,981 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    riemann wrote: »
    Thanks for that. What would be reputable brands?

    I don't even know the brand of the one I have as the cover was removed years ago!


    Lincoln, miller, fronius(aka the rolls royce), esab, thermal arc are ok, then there are 9 or 10 different brands all import machines that are much of a muchness, 2-3-€400 sort of machines which are mostly fine for odd jobs around the farm.
    Buy a good brand of rod, a good welding rod( or wire if MIG welding) is better value than spending a bit more on a machine, anything by Oerlikon,(fincord/citofix), murex, esab, lincoln, is good quality.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,838 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Lincoln, miller, fronius(aka the rolls royce), esab, thermal arc are ok, then there are 9 or 10 different brands all import machines that are much of a muchness, 2-3-€400 sort of machines which are mostly fine for odd jobs around the farm.
    Buy a good brand of rod, a good welding rod( or wire if MIG welding) is better value than spending a bit more on a machine, anything by Oerlikon,(fincord/citofix), murex, esab, lincoln, is good quality.

    And keep the rods dry. Store them in the hot press if not used often and you can get away with it...


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,664 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Did anyone buy a Lidl cordless angle grinder, what are they like?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Did anyone buy a Lidl cordless angle grinder, what are they like?

    I bought one last year, blue. They're grand for what I use them for, mostly edging the shear grab and doing a bit of cutting where wouldn't have power. The battery doesn't last too long so you'd need two if you're going to do an amount of heavier stuff.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,496 ✭✭✭148multi


    I bought one last year, blue. They're grand for what I use them for, mostly edging the shear grab and doing a bit of cutting where wouldn't have power. The battery doesn't last too long so you'd need two if you're going to do an amount of heavier stuff.

    The 4ah makes a huge difference, seems to give it more poke.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭tractorporn


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Did anyone buy a Lidl cordless angle grinder, what are they like?

    Have one here and have managed to stop it a few time but the 4ah battery does help. It's only good for light stuff, I had it cutting corrugated sheets today no bother on it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 942 ✭✭✭RobinBanks


    Anyone know of a product that would be good to clean out sludge and dirt from bottom of diesel tank on tractor. I was told not to power wash out using water


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,241 ✭✭✭Figerty


    RobinBanks wrote: »
    Anyone know of a product that would be good to clean out sludge and dirt from bottom of diesel tank on tractor. I was told not to power wash out using water

    I have always washed out with water after draining it and cleaning filters.
    Then I get a heat gun (or hair dryer) and pout into the spout of the tank and let it blow in hot air and make sure there is space for the water vapour to escape.
    Tank will be bone dry in a few minutes.
    Just be careful of you have rubber seals at the mouth of tank not to overheat .


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,185 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    Bought a few lengths of blue band recent but havent bought for a while and welding them yesterday i couldn't get over hiw lighr they've got.they are the same now as brown band long ago.surely there's some standard for blue band and is all blue band the same


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,773 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    K.G. wrote: »
    Bought a few lengths of blue band recent but havent bought for a while and welding them yesterday i couldn't get over hiw lighr they've got.they are the same now as brown band long ago.surely there's some standard for blue band and is all blue band the same

    Blue Band is 'Medium Wall'. Brown is 'Light Wall'

    http://flahertyhardware.ie/index.php/product/medium-galvd-pipe-blue-band/

    Dimensions here;
    https://iitc.ie/catalogue/steel/tubes/galvanised-pipe/galvanised-pipe/

    So for the usual cattle crush, 50mm Blue Pipe would be LGP40. This is 48.3 x 2.5mm. 48.3mm is the outer diameter, 2.5mm is wall thinkness.
    It should weigh 16.92 kg per length.
    I think length is 6 Metres.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,185 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    Making a door and used a few scraps of old blue band to brace it but the main frames are new blues.there is some difference in the old to new when you catch them up


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,773 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    K.G. wrote: »
    Making a door and used a few scraps of old blue band to brace it but the main frames are new blues.there is some difference in the old to new when you catch them up

    I thought the last blue band I bought seemed poor quality too. A lot of rust on it, sharp edges etc. All that kind of stuff seems to be coming from China now.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,241 ✭✭✭Figerty


    I thought the last blue band I bought seemed poor quality too. A lot of rust on it, sharp edges etc. All that kind of stuff seems to be coming from China now.

    Caveat Empter is suppose.
    If you accept it, then they will keep supplying it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,382 ✭✭✭tractorporn


    After Michael H trying to drag the standard of this thread towards proper engineering I shall now drag us all back into the gunther!

    Made this over the weekend. My uncle had weights lying around and the tractor they came off sold so all I had to buy was the nine hole bar (€40) I had everything else. Next modification when I get time is to weld a carrier onto an old linkage off a transport box to stop it from swinging. But its keeping the wheels on the ground for now anyway. There are another two weights still in the uncles yard I might throw them on it over the weekend.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,218 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Extra mark's for using a railway bolt... !


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,757 ✭✭✭9935452


    I thought the last blue band I bought seemed poor quality too. A lot of rust on it, sharp edges etc. All that kind of stuff seems to be coming from China now.

    A lad i was doing a bit of welding for bought a bale of brown band piping from the coop.
    When i heard brown band my eyes rolled to the heavens but it was easy to weld.
    Turns out the pipes had no markings on them and they were redband. The boys gave him the wrong ones


  • Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    After Michael H trying to drag the standard of this thread towards proper engineering I shall now drag us all back into the gunther!

    Made this over the weekend. My uncle had weights lying around and the tractor they came off sold so all I had to buy was the nine hole bar (€40) I had everything else. Next modification when I get time is to weld a carrier onto an old linkage off a transport box to stop it from swinging. But its keeping the wheels on the ground for now anyway. There are another two weights still in the uncles yard I might throw them on it over the weekend.


    Hmmm still new steel in use .......................
    be careful that the handles on the weights don't break. I bend two pieces steel to 90 degrees and drill two holes bolt the angle to the new nine hole bar and put a length of threaded bar through the weights to take the load off the handles.............................................................................


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,062 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    stock> wrote: »
    Hmmm still new steel in use .......................
    be careful that the handles on the weights don't break. I bend two pieces steel to 90 degrees and drill two holes bolt the angle to the new nine hole bar and put a length of threaded bar through the weights to take the load off the handles.............................................................................

    The 9 holebar would break before the weights would


  • Registered Users Posts: 755 ✭✭✭stock>


    The 9 holebar would break before the weights would
    past experience say different...................................................


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭cjpm


    Anyone know what 3inch angle is costing at the minute? May need around 150 feet. Thanks

    80 x 80 x 6mm is around €51 incl VAT


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