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Labour Saving and General Guntering

11920222425173

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    dharn wrote: »
    You cant beat a bit of length :D

    Its the width I'm told :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    Shes being diplomatic


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,975 ✭✭✭Connemara Farmer


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. Good and long, cause easy to brain yourself with a short driver and a short post, when the bottom edge of the driver catches on the top of the post.

    Think they fired something at Thatcher out of that yoke in the 80's :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    The grips are fierce uncomfortable looking


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. .

    At first l thought it was a homemade incendiary device to blow up the trooper! :D But now I realise tis a post driver! Nicely made btw


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  • Registered Users Posts: 144 ✭✭quader


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Its the width I'm told :D

    Na it's how u use it and more importantly how often😎😎


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 496 ✭✭agriman27


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. Good and long, cause easy to brain yourself with a short driver and a short post, when the bottom edge of the driver catches on the top of the post.

    Your jeep looks familiar I've seen it around:pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,228 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    agriman27 wrote: »
    Your jeep looks familiar I've seen it around:pac:

    Ha! Don't be shy, got loads of fencing on tomorrow :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    I use the front loader to drive stakes, much easier


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Made this this morning. Not pretty, but done the job. Good and long, cause easy to brain yourself with a short driver and a short post, when the bottom edge of the driver catches on the top of the post.

    I'm glad I' not from where you're from ;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,228 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    just do it wrote: »
    I'm glad I' not from where you're from ;)

    They breed us tall up here.....;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,422 ✭✭✭just do it


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    They breed us tall up here.....;)

    I was thinking more of your location in the user detail panel on the left hand side :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,826 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    Reggie. wrote: »
    I feed all my bales with a similar fork and always pushed bushes with that fork as the branches can't get to the bonnet grill when your pushing

    My idea was a frame the width of the tractor with ( prob)5 tines at the bottom and a longer one centered and height to suit the centre of the bale
    Id only be handling 1 bale at a time so i could remove the centre and outer bottom tines if need be
    I could remove the long centre bale spike to use as light gauge forks for pallets/ barrels and for pushing bushes
    The closed back to protect the grill is good but maybe a strong steel meah for visibility
    Now what size / gauge of steel should be thinking of and are the brackets dear ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    cjmc wrote: »
    My idea was a frame the width of the tractor with ( prob)5 tines at the bottom and a longer one centered and height to suit the centre of the bale
    Id only be handling 1 bale at a time so i could remove the centre and outer bottom tines if need be
    I could remove the long centre bale spike to use as light gauge forks for pallets/ barrels and for pushing bushes
    The closed back to protect the grill is good but maybe a strong steel meah for visibility
    Now what size / gauge of steel should be thinking of and are the brackets dear ?

    Euro brackets can be got round the €80 ish mark, but could be up to €100 depending where you get them,

    As for steel bare minimum would be say 80*80*6 for the time beam, but if you could go heavier I would, and definitly put in tine bushings, just drilling 2 holes you'll never keep the tines tight..

    Personally I wouldn't be mad for taking times in and out as you'll never keep the buggers tight in it if you do. To be honest If your only gona put 5 tines in a fork the width of tractor I wouldn't be to worried about taking them out anyway, you'll have no problem getting them into bales, and if you use 32"tines they'll be long enough even for chopped bales.

    We've just 2*42" tines here on the fork and I hate opening silage bales on it as the centre falls through half the time whilst you r cutting the net off and ends up caught in the bale. On the other hand place i work in has a fork the bare width of the loader with 5*32"tines and it's no bother picking up bales and easier to break up bales and spread them out with it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,826 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    Zr105 wrote: »
    Euro brackets can be got round the €80 ish mark, but could be up to €100 depending where you get them,

    As for steel bare minimum would be say 80*80*6 for the time beam, but if you could go heavier I would, and definitly put in tine bushings, just drilling 2 holes you'll never keep the tines tight..

    Personally I wouldn't be mad for taking times in and out as you'll never keep the buggers tight in it if you do. To be honest If your only gona put 5 tines in a fork the width of tractor I wouldn't be to worried about taking them out anyway, you'll have no problem getting them into bales, and if you use 32"tines they'll be long enough even for chopped bales.

    We've just 2*42" tines here on the fork and I hate opening silage bales on it as the centre falls through half the time whilst you r cutting the net off and ends up caught in the bale. On the other hand place i work in has a fork the bare width of the loader with 5*32"tines and it's no bother picking up bales and easier to break up bales and spread them out with it

    Yeah think your right about puting tines in and out and thanks for trlling me about works fork
    What is 80'80'6 steel , 3" box ? And by go heavier is that size or gauge ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,228 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    80 millimeter square box , with a 6 millimeter thick wall. If you can get 100mm square with a 10 or 12 mm wall, would be ideal.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    cjmc wrote: »
    Yeah think your right about puting tines in and out and thanks for trlling me about works fork
    What is 80'80'6 steel , 3" box ? And by go heavier is that size or gauge ?

    Yeah 80*80*6 would be close to 3inch, it'd be the modern equivalent, 3in would be closer to 75mm but it's either 70 or 80mm now!

    As nec says 100*100 with 10mm would be better, But the 80 should be fine. I suppose it depends what sort of loader/power you have behind it and what sort of weight your lifting aswell!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,826 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    , But the 80 should be fine. I suppose it depends what sort of loader/power you have behind it and what sort of weight your lifting aswell![/quote]

    Old case 885xl , lifting 1 bale and bushes most listly the bulk of the work
    I thought 100 mm might be heavy but maybe not. It'd be lighter than the bucket i use


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    cjmc wrote: »
    , But the 80 should be fine. I suppose it depends what sort of loader/power you have behind it and what sort of weight your lifting aswell!

    Old case 885xl , lifting 1 bale and bushes most listly the bulk of the work
    I thought 100 mm might be heavy but maybe not. It'd be lighter than the bucket i use[/quote]
    I'd go as heavy as you can really, even heavier walled 80*80 would be no harm really


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,826 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    I'd go as heavy as you can really, even heavier walled 80*80 would be no harm really[/quote]
    Heavier guage (10 mm) Would be handier welded too i magine


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    cjmc wrote: »
    I'd go as heavy as you can really, even heavier walled 80*80 would be no harm really
    Heavier guage (10 mm) Would be handier welded too i magine[/quote]

    Yeah it would as there is more steel to bite into


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    Thinking about throwing together a trailed milk tank for feeding calves, pull it behind the quad. Don't think anyone makes one yet. Prob buy one of those atv trailer kits. There bout €180 and locate a tank to put on top of it. Enjoy welding a lot so looking forward to it.

    Any tips at all or advise regarding quad trailers?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭GY A1


    something like this
    made already

    http://www.donedeal.ie/feedingequipment-for-sale/calf-feeder/4461540


    delaney001 wrote: »
    Thinking about throwing together a trailed milk tank for feeding calves, pull it behind the quad. Don't think anyone makes one yet. Prob buy one of those atv trailer kits. There bout €180 and locate a tank to put on top of it. Enjoy welding a lot so looking forward to it.

    Any tips at all or advise regarding quad trailers?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    GY A1 wrote: »

    I like the lick bucket holder


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭delaney001


    GY A1 wrote: »

    It's actually only the transport I want. We could have ten groups of calves in different areas. They all feed on the 10 tit blue feeders hanging on a gate. So rather than having to carry buckets of milk around to 10 areas, it'd be handy fill this thing up and drive around to each pen. If that makes sense.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    36mm spanner, I needed one thin enough to fit between the engine block and the fan on a landrover defender.
    It worked and took me about 15 minutes .
    Its as rough as they get though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    If it works... I made a 36 mm socket from some pipe cut 5 slots in it flattened each section around the nut welded the joins, perfect job, welded handel on to the side of it, removed blades off a topper


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    dharn wrote: »
    If it works... I made a 36 mm socket from some pipe cut 5 slots in it flattened each section around the nut welded the joins, perfect job, welded handel on to the side of it, removed blades off a topper

    Nice...very nice


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Finally got back to the "sprocket"


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,895 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Nice work. What's with the paint job on the drum? Is it camouflaged?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Odelay wrote: »
    Nice work. What's with the paint job on the drum? Is it camouflaged?

    Ran a builders line on it and then sprayed over it to get the curved line. Look closely and you will see the line I'm following for the blades in pic 2


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,895 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Ran a builders line on it and then sprayed over it to get the curved line. Look closely and you will see the line I'm following for the blades in pic 2

    Ah, now I get it, thought the dark area was sprayed over the yellow drum but now see it's yellow sprayed over a steel drum.
    Sorry to be a nosey fooker again, but what is the tray/trough on the back wall? Know ya put a lot of thought into work, so curious as to its use......


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,453 ✭✭✭Zr105


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Ran a builders line on it and then sprayed over it to get the curved line. Look closely and you will see the line I'm following for the blades in pic 2

    Smart idea! I was about to ask had ya gone all fancy and using some special anti spatter spray :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    Looks like its for feeding a giraffe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 750 ✭✭✭Farmer


    dharn wrote: »
    Looks like its for feeding a giraffe

    That'll confuse the grading machine but sure we've already had horse meat so why not :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Odelay wrote: »
    Ah, now I get it, thought the dark area was sprayed over the yellow drum but now see it's yellow sprayed over a steel drum.
    Sorry to be a nosey fooker again, but what is the tray/trough on the back wall? Know ya put a lot of thought into work, so curious as to its use......

    :D it's just a homemade feeding through that hangs on a gate


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,895 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Reggie. wrote: »
    :D it's just a homemade feeding through that hangs on a gate

    So you made a device to hang the feeding trough that hangs on a gate to store it??? :D I'm guessing there are no pallets and twine filling gaps in your place:pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Odelay wrote: »
    So you made a device to hang the feeding trough that hangs on a gate to store it??? :D I'm guessing there are no pallets and twine filling gaps in your place:pac:

    Nope it just haging on the side panels of the shed


  • Registered Users Posts: 426 ✭✭rushvalley


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Finally got back to the "sprocket"

    Just needs a coat of MF red now :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    rushvalley wrote: »
    Just needs a coat of MF red now :D

    Now there's an idea :D

    Was wondering on a colour scheme for it
    Was thinking yellow drum and wheels with blue frame

    Suggestions? :D


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,580 ✭✭✭Mad4simmental


    Nice job Reggie. It'll be interesting to see what difference it will do to a field.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Nice job Reggie. It'll be interesting to see what difference it will do to a field.

    More than likely seed metal blades in the ground everywhere :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    What are your spikes made from


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    dharn wrote: »
    What are your spikes made from

    Reversible plough points


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,574 ✭✭✭dharn


    Will the hardened steel weld to the mild steel


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    dharn wrote: »
    Will the hardened steel weld to the mild steel

    Seems to have while I was tacking it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Figerty


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Seems to have while I was tacking it

    29 /9 rod if it doesn't. That should sort it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Figerty wrote: »
    29 /9 rod if it doesn't. That should sort it.

    I'm gonna MIG them


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,826 ✭✭✭✭cj maxx


    Quote: Mad4simmental
    Nice job Reggie. It'll be interesting to see what difference it will do to a field.


    Sorry reggie but i cant find the op or photos , what did you make for tearing up ground ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,499 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    cjmc wrote: »
    Quote: Mad4simmental
    Nice job Reggie. It'll be interesting to see what difference it will do to a field.


    Sorry reggie but i cant find the op or photos , what did you make for tearing up ground ?
    A drum aerator

    Look two pages back


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