Labour Saving and General Guntering

GY A1

you can fill the holes and roll
but eventually the rain/water will wash them out again,
it really need taring by the council to seal it

SCOL

It's only a short section of road maybe 80m or so yes sealing it would be the job but it's not going to happen. If I was to make something like a rake and run up the lane once a week just to keep it right It would not take too long.

Kevhog1988

SCOL wrote: »

It's only a short section of road maybe 80m or so yes sealing it would be the job but it's not going to happen. If I was to make something like a rake and run up the lane once a week just to keep it right It would not take too long.

just drag an rsj on two chains. sort og like a land leveller x harrow

ganmo

shorten the toplink and drag the transport box

SCOL

theemigrant wrote: »

just drag an rsj on two chains. sort og like a land leveller x harrow

I'll give that a go and see how I get on.

Kevhog1988

ganmo wrote: »

shorten the toplink and drag the transport box

makes **** of the floor no??

MickeyShtyles

theemigrant wrote: »

makes **** of the floor no??

Depends how much ya like yer transport box.....

patsy_mccabe

I have a similar problem but the road is about half a mile long. It's owned by about 5 different farmers, we have to fill the holes every spring but the first wet weather and it goes to crap. I think you need a good base of 4" clean limestone
as a base and blind then with 1/2" down.
I often thought of dragging an RSJ along it as s way of keeping it right. You'll ruin a transport box, I think.

Kevhog1988

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I have a similar problem but the road is about half a mile long. It's owned by about 5 different farmers, we have to fill the holes every spring but the first wet weather and it goes to crap. I think you need a good base of 4" clean limestone
as a base and blind then with 1/2" down.
I often thought of dragging an RSJ along it as s way of keeping it right. You'll ruin a transport box, I think.

same problem on our lane. i give it the osd belt of the 4in1 on jcb and dad does a bit of filling when he gets stone handy (free)

GY A1

theemigrant wrote: »

same problem on our lane. i give it the osd belt of the 4in1 on jcb and dad does a bit of filling when he gets stone handy (free)

give a road a rub of the jcb here aswell, any stuff thats scrapped from the high spots usually fills the holes then

cant beat the weight of the jcb bucket

fastrac94

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I have a similar problem but the road is about half a mile long. It's owned by about 5 different farmers, we have to fill the holes every spring but the first wet weather and it goes to crap. I think you need a good base of 4" clean limestone
as a base and blind then with 1/2" down.
I often thought of dragging an RSJ along it as s way of keeping it right. You'll ruin a transport box, I think.

could ye not come together and get the council to carry out an LIS on it(local improvement scheme) only need three land owners to qualify i think,work for a contractor here and we do a few of these schemes every year..worth looking into anyhow..

patsy_mccabe

fastrac94 wrote: »

could ye not come together and get the council to carry out an LIS on it(local improvement scheme) only need three land owners to qualify i think,work for a contractor here and we do a few of these schemes every year..worth looking into anyhow..

Cheers. I will look into it. I know my dad did try to get the council to take over it, but no luck...... And his cousin was a councilor.

MF290

https://www.donedeal.ie/otherfarmmachinery-for-sale/fransgard-road-grader-leveller/10692890

Save your transport boxes lads!

greenpetrol

GY A1 wrote: »

give a road a rub of the jcb here aswell, any stuff thats scrapped from the high spots usually fills the holes then

cant beat the weight of the jcb
would a land leveler be the best solution here? One say 8ft wide

foxy farmer

Im currently helping someone to extend a milking parlour. Concrete work done and roof next in line. Have 4 timber A trusses made 20ft wide and just under 5ft high. Problem is access for anthing to get them in position is very awkward. We can man handle them into the pit but the walls are 9ft high. Rump rails are also in position.
Was thinking of making a type of a mast with a wide base eg 7ftx7ft frame that would sit on the pit floor then get a 20ft length of steel pipe eg 3 inch fixed to the base ,with a small arm welded to the top that i could hang a chain block from to lift the trusses. Also needed to lift 3 8x4 H irons that span the 18ft width of the parlour. Would this work?

rangler1

foxy farmer wrote: »

Im currently helping someone to extend a milking parlour. Concrete work done and roof next in line. Have 4 timber A trusses made 20ft wide and just under 5ft high. Problem is access for anthing to get them in position is very awkward. We can man handle them into the pit but the walls are 9ft high. Rump rails are also in position.
Was thinking of making a type of a mast with a wide base eg 7ftx7ft frame that would sit on the pit floor then get a 20ft length of steel pipe eg 3 inch fixed to the base ,with a small arm welded to the top that i could hang a chain block from to lift the trusses. Also needed to lift 3 8x4 H irons that span the 18ft width of the parlour. Would this work?

Some of the sheds here were put up using a heavy plank secured upright by four ropes tied to the pillars and a pulley at the top for a steel rope and a steel rope winch on the ground to pull the truss up along the plank
not much health and safety then, but it got up 25ft trusses.

CloughCasey1

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Cheers. I will look into it. I know my dad did try to get the council to take over it, but no luck...... And his cousin was a councilor.

Before our road was tarred we used to go to cold chon for half car trailer of tarmacadam and fill holes and get builders whacker to compact it in. Worked well.

keep going

would a min digger be able to get in there.

td5man

foxy farmer wrote: »

Im currently helping someone to extend a milking parlour. Concrete work done and roof next in line. Have 4 timber A trusses made 20ft wide and just under 5ft high. Problem is access for anthing to get them in position is very awkward. We can man handle them into the pit but the walls are 9ft high. Rump rails are also in position.
Was thinking of making a type of a mast with a wide base eg 7ftx7ft frame that would sit on the pit floor then get a 20ft length of steel pipe eg 3 inch fixed to the base ,with a small arm welded to the top that i could hang a chain block from to lift the trusses. Also needed to lift 3 8x4 H irons that span the 18ft width of the parlour. Would this work?

Local shed builders used to carry the trusses up a ladder on their shoulders before the days of h&s.

blue5000

foxy farmer wrote: »

Im currently helping someone to extend a milking parlour. Concrete work done and roof next in line. Have 4 timber A trusses made 20ft wide and just under 5ft high. Problem is access for anthing to get them in position is very awkward. We can man handle them into the pit but the walls are 9ft high. Rump rails are also in position.
Was thinking of making a type of a mast with a wide base eg 7ftx7ft frame that would sit on the pit floor then get a 20ft length of steel pipe eg 3 inch fixed to the base ,with a small arm welded to the top that i could hang a chain block from to lift the trusses. Also needed to lift 3 8x4 H irons that span the 18ft width of the parlour. Would this work?

Have you room to set up a scaffold tower?

Grazon

Quick question I painted a bale spike with lowe grey rust primer would it be ok to use tractol paint for the finish coat.

sandydan

foxy farmer wrote: »

Im currently helping someone to extend a milking parlour. Concrete work done and roof next in line. Have 4 timber A trusses made 20ft wide and just under 5ft high. Problem is access for anthing to get them in position is very awkward. We can man handle them into the pit but the walls are 9ft high. Rump rails are also in position.
Was thinking of making a type of a mast with a wide base eg 7ftx7ft frame that would sit on the pit floor then get a 20ft length of steel pipe eg 3 inch fixed to the base ,with a small arm welded to the top that i could hang a chain block from to lift the trusses. Also needed to lift 3 8x4 H irons that span the 18ft width of the parlour. Would this work?

some type of loadall with extendable boom, or a track digger such as CAT ,Hyundai , etc.
i know 2 fellas who spent long periods in hospital due to truss falling off loader bucket and a rope snapping that held block and tackle in place, thats why HSS is here now,
having said that i put up trusses using galv pipes fitted over buckrake pins on front loader, some sway too, if you cant get secure fixing to some thing solid nearer that the moon , and if access is problem, a crane is only real option costly but safe

Kevhog1988

foxy farmer wrote: »

Im currently helping someone to extend a milking parlour. Concrete work done and roof next in line. Have 4 timber A trusses made 20ft wide and just under 5ft high. Problem is access for anthing to get them in position is very awkward. We can man handle them into the pit but the walls are 9ft high. Rump rails are also in position.
Was thinking of making a type of a mast with a wide base eg 7ftx7ft frame that would sit on the pit floor then get a 20ft length of steel pipe eg 3 inch fixed to the base ,with a small arm welded to the top that i could hang a chain block from to lift the trusses. Also needed to lift 3 8x4 H irons that span the 18ft width of the parlour. Would this work?

this is the man for the job... called a genie hoist. will save you a considerable amount of ballache

Base price

theemigrant wrote: »

this is the man for the job... called a genie hoist. will save you a considerable amount of ballache

Pic not showing for me. Boards screen showing Internal Server Error.

Kevhog1988

Base price wrote: »

Pic not showing for me. Boards screen showing Internal Server Error.

Boards is riddled... its a genie hoist if you go on google images

keep going

well foxy,how did ye do it

foxy farmer

Went with my own idea. Made a H frame out of 3" box with 2 parallel centre bars 4" apart and 2 outer legs 7ft long and 7ft apart.Welded 2 4" box uprights between these about 2ft long standing vertical one central and one at one end to get close to a gable wall. Stand 20ft of 3" pipe into either one. Cut 18" piece of 4" box and welded some 3" flat to the end of it to make a short swinging arm to hang 1tonne chain block from. This was fitted over the top of the pipe. Worked a dream. Could centre it in the pit just to one side of the rails. Then bring in the trusses haul them up swing them into position drill the bolt holes tighten the bolts undo the slings and job done.
I forgot to take a pic or 2 when at the job but I'll put it together again soon just to let ye see what im on about.

foxy farmer

Pic 1 is the H frame. The length of 3" pipe fits into either of the 2 galv box sections.
Pic 2 is the jib at the top of the pipe where the chain block was hanging from.

Longford Leader

Base price wrote: »

Pic not showing for me. Boards screen showing Internal Server Error.

Seriously getting peeved off with boards still not working correctly a week after the DDoS attack. :mad:

foxy farmer

Longford Leader wrote: »

Seriously getting peeved off with boards still not working correctly a week after the DDoS attack. :mad:

Yep 5 attempts to post pics up last night and fierce slow to load new pages.

greenpetrol

foxy farmer wrote: »

Yep 5 attempts to post pics up last night and fierce slow to load new pages.

Hope they sort it soon as I see a decline in posts and losing interest in checking as it takes so long to load

Base price

Would anyone have an idea of the price of chequered steel sheets. The timber floor in my two cow trailer is rotten. OH wants to sheet it with chequered steel but I reckon timber is good enough.

_Brian

Base price wrote: »

Would anyone have an idea of the price of chequered steel sheets. The timber floor in my two cow trailer is rotten. OH wants to sheet it with chequered steel but I reckon timber is good enough.

Not sure about plate..
But we got a 2" larch floor cut for ours three years ago for €75, 8*5 trailer.

foxy farmer

Base price wrote: »

Would anyone have an idea of the price of chequered steel sheets. The timber floor in my two cow trailer is rotten. OH wants to sheet it with chequered steel but I reckon timber is good enough.

Lad on DD selling 8x4 ft sheets 3mm thick chequer plate aluminium for €130.
Chequer plate steel wont last.
A few 6x2 planks treated and spaced about 50 mm apart and aluminium sheet bolted down on top of them will last a lifetime.

Nekarsulm

Base price wrote: »

Would anyone have an idea of the price of chequered steel sheets. The timber floor in my two cow trailer is rotten. OH wants to sheet it with chequered steel but I reckon timber is good enough.

There is a lad builds Lorry bodies in Granard, just out of town on the Longford road, on the right hand side. He got heavy checker alloy for me a few years ago, and wasn't too hard shod.
Get stainless cup head bolts, for a lifetime job.

Base price

Nekarsulm wrote: »

There is a lad builds Lorry bodies in Granard, just out of town on the Longford road, on the right hand side. He got heavy checker alloy for me a few years ago, and wasn't too hard shod.
Get stainless cup head bolts, for a lifetime job.

I know the place.
TBH I would have thought that aluminium would be more expensive than steel. I understand what people are saying about aluminium been the bees knees but the trailer is old.

Nekarsulm

Base price wrote: »

I know the place.
TBH I would have thought that aluminium would be more expensive than steel. I understand what people are saying about aluminium been the bees knees but the trailer is old.

It is more expensive, but if you have to put another steel floor in in eight or nine years your probably at the same price.
If it's an older trailer that won't meet new regs; well then perhaps a cheaper job now and put the difference towards a better model in a few years time.
It's just if steel rusts, I'd be afraid of putting a heavy animal in , in case a foot went through it.

Base price

Nekarsulm wrote: »

It is more expensive, but if you have to put another steel floor in in eight or nine years your probably at the same price.
If it's an older trailer that won't meet new regs; well then perhaps a cheaper job now and put the difference towards a better model in a few years time.
It's just if steel rusts, I'd be afraid of putting a heavy animal in , in case a foot went through it.

The trailer meets the regs I think. It's an Ifor Williams (with working brakes) all be it an older model.
If we were going to go down the aluminium floor route (which we have not discussed) then I reckon he would go to a guy he knows in Monaghan who builds livestock bodies/trailers. My trailer is not worth enough to warrant it. I think I will get my way and we'll put in a timber floor.

Limestone Cowboy

Base price wrote: »

The trailer meets the regs I think. It's an Ifor Williams (with working brakes) all be it an older model.
If we were going to go down the aluminium floor route (which we have not discussed) then I reckon he would go to a guy he knows in Monaghan who builds livestock bodies/trailers. My trailer is not worth enough to warrant it. I think I will get my way and we'll put in a timber floor.

I got an 8x5 sheet of check plate aluminium for 100 last year to replace a floor in an old cow box. For the sake of 100 quid Tis worth doing to be honest.

Pacoa

https://www.facebook.com/743750502348696/videos/1052989461424797/

Nifty little yoke.

keep going

Pacoa wrote: »

https://www.facebook.com/743750502348696/videos/1052989461424797/

Nifty little yoke.

Handy alright any of ye got something on the spreader to hole bags.thinking of doing something for h and s reasons as much as time and wondering what to do

foxy farmer

keep going wrote: »

Handy alright any of ye got something on the spreader to hole bags.thinking of doing something for h and s reasons as much as time and wondering what to do

I saw a reconditioned secondhand spreader for sale in a engineering yard a while back that had a triangular blade mounted on the top of the hopper. Like a larger version of a knife section for a combine. About 12" at the base and 9" high. Probably a good idea.

keep going

foxy farmer wrote: »

I saw a reconditioned secondhand spreader for sale in a engineering yard a while back that had a triangular blade mounted on the top of the hopper. Like a larger version of a knife section for a combine. About 12" at the base and 9" high. Probably a good idea.

Tbh id a bit of near miss between the spreader and the loader last year when the loader rolled foward and could have pinned me to the spreader .it would need to make a hole big enough to empty the bag without letting all go in one go.

foxy farmer

keep going wrote: »

Tbh id a bit of near miss between the spreader and the loader last year when the loader rolled foward and could have pinned me to the spreader .it would need to make a hole big enough to empty the bag without letting all go in one go.

Mount it low inside the hopper. Then lift bag to empty it. Out of danger too.

sea12

Pacoa wrote: »

https://www.facebook.com/743750502348696/videos/1052989461424797/

Nifty little yoke.

Could see that doing very well if it was priced reasonable

foxy farmer

Pacoa wrote: »

https://www.facebook.com/743750502348696/videos/1052989461424797/

Nifty little yoke.

Spaldings used to sell something similar. I think you'd screw it up through the bottom of the bag.

foxy farmer

foxy farmer wrote: »

Spaldings used to sell something similar. I think you'd screw it up through the bottom of the bag.

This yoke.

Nekarsulm

Those lucky people out there with Fiat 90-90's etc. may like to know that Citroen C5 bonnet gas struts are perfect for the Fiat back window. Picked up a pair today in the scrapyard for 5 Euro.
Just the right lenght and spring strenght.

bogman_bass

Picked this up for what I thought was small money (270 sound ok to the rest of you?)
Only thing wrong is it needs a battery for the electric starter to work but starts fine from a pull start.
Going to convert it into a scraper

bogman_bass

Picked this up for what I thought was small money (270 sound ok to the rest of you?)
Only thing wrong is it needs a battery for the electric starter to work but starts fine from a pull start.
Going to convert it into a scraper