Labour Saving and General Guntering

pedigree 6

jack of all wrote: »

@ pedigree 6

The sharp point on the end of the latch looks like an accident waiting to happen, would it not be a good idea to grind it back or round it over for fear someone would do themselves an injury if they walked or backed into it?

Just seen your post there now. I had to have that angle on it for the latch to push itself up when going against the plate. If I had a quarter of a circle on it it wouldn't work as well and probably not latch. I could have left more plate above the latch and not have a point on the end and it would still have the heavy end on that side. If I was doing it again I would do it that way and no point.
But that latch is very rough and was made from bits of iron I had left over.
But it's high enough and in the middle of the gate and when you open the gate you are at the end of it so it shouldn't cause any problems.
The biggest fear with any covered gate is the wind catching it that's why I put the latch on it to hold it open and still not have to go around to the other side of the gate to open the latch otherwise the latch would be on the house.
I could have put the latch on the house and have it going through the sheeting and on to a plate on the inside of the gate and it would work also.
There's a million different ways you could do it but it is what it is and it works.

Edit: probably will weld on a little bit above it to take off the point.

Base price

I was going to buy this cordless drill for OH. They are reduced from €125 to €85 for Easter weekend. Any thoughts as to quality etc. He only uses a drill for occasional work around the yard. Last one he had died and was about 10 year old.
http://www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-18v-li-ion-hammer-drill-2-batteries-psb-1800-li-2/1131623_BQ.prd

emaherx

Base price wrote: »

I was going to buy this cordless drill for OH. They are reduced from €125 to €85 for Easter weekend. Any thoughts as to quality etc. He only uses a drill for occasional work around the yard. Last one he had died and was about 10 year old.
http://www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-18v-li-ion-hammer-drill-2-batteries-psb-1800-li-2/1131623_BQ.prd

Bosch and lithium ion, think it is perfect the use you describe.

Bullocks

EJ88 wrote: »

Why not use 50kg bags?

Cos I can't buy a new back when it's shagged !

croot

Base price wrote: »

I was going to buy this cordless drill for OH. They are reduced from €125 to €85 for Easter weekend. Any thoughts as to quality etc. He only uses a drill for occasional work around the yard. Last one he had died and was about 10 year old.
http://www.diy.com/departments/bosch-cordless-18v-li-ion-hammer-drill-2-batteries-psb-1800-li-2/1131623_BQ.prd

I bought one like that in B&Q in Liffey valley a few years ago and it lasted about a year. Not abused just poor quality. I had a cheap black and decker that lasted longer.

blue5000

To paint or not to paint that is the question?

Drilled a few holes in an off cut of H iron..... went on to evil bay, stuck in a bid of wait for it......1 penny+79p postage from China, waited patiently for it to arrive.

The 50 cent coin is for scale:eek:

TheBody

Lovely job!! Great idea. Just make sure you don't knock it off the mantelpiece onto your big toe!!

Muckit

That's one clock l wouldn't like to have fall on my foot!

I'm a bit of a clockaholic myself. Have bought and made the world of them, but from timber. Quartz mechanisms.

TheBody

Muckit wrote: »

That's one clock l wouldn't like to have fall on my foot!

I'm a bit of a clockaholic myself. Have bought and made the world of them, but from timber. Quartz mechanisms.

Any pictures of the ones you made?

foxy farmer

That could end up under a trailer drawbar if it was left in the wrong place.

zetecescort

Often thought about making a clock from a car brake disc but never got around to it.

blue5000

foxy farmer wrote: »

That could end up under a trailer drawbar if it was left in the wrong place.

I better paint it so:rolleyes:

Muckit

TheBody wrote: »

Any pictures of the ones you made?

On a slow connection at mo but will upload a few later when on wifi. Did a few for presents out of rough 5"x2". Surnames with the clock face on one of the letters.

foxy farmer

My father inset a brass clock into a block of scrap mahogany nearly 30yrs ago. Bought the clock in a sale in Cash's on Patrick st in Cork. After deciding on a design he discovered that it was too difficult to cut the block without taking it to someone. Drilled 12mm holes and cut it out with a hacksaw blade. Left it like that rather than smoothen the ridges.
(Cleaner on extended holiday hence the dust!!!!)

ganmo

foxy farmer wrote: »

My father inset a brass clock into a block of scrap mahogany nearly 30yrs ago. Bought the clock in a sale in Cash's on Patrick st in Cork. After deciding on a design he discovered that it was too difficult to cut the block without taking it to someone. Drilled 12mm holes and cut it out with a hacksaw blade. Left it like that rather than smoothen the ridges.
(Cleaner on extended holiday hence the dust!!!!)

I've always called that type of clock a grand mother clock with a tall one with pendulum and chimes called a grandfather clock

MickeyShtyles

Made one over a couple of nights last autumn.
Not much but sue I enjoyed making it.

Kovu

foxy farmer wrote: »

My father inset a brass clock into a block of scrap mahogany nearly 30yrs ago. Bought the clock in a sale in Cash's on Patrick st in Cork. After deciding on a design he discovered that it was too difficult to cut the block without taking it to someone. Drilled 12mm holes and cut it out with a hacksaw blade. Left it like that rather than smoothen the ridges.
(Cleaner on extended holiday hence the dust!!!!)

I like the fox hunting horn! Toot toot

ABlur

We'll have to start a horology forum! Though this mightnt qualify, bog dale barometer drilled out in the days before you could buy fancy core saws!

foxy farmer

Kovu wrote: »

I like the fox hunting horn! Toot toot

I was wondering would ye spot it. Relic from when the family were head of the local hunt.
Some hard yoke to get noise out of. Think there should be a tongue fitted but it's missing. Supposed to make it easier to blow.

pedigree 6

I've always had doing this in the back of my mind. The final straw came when a cow treated for mastitis her milk was let in the bulk tank and the tank of milk had to be let in slurry pit. There's usually two of us milking and tape is put on the treated cows tail till they're ready for the bulk tank but when they are finished milking the hand can automatically go to the switch and let it on.
I don't know if other people have these but I have a fullwood parlour (well a mixture) so I got a plate on a hinge made up to cover the switch. When a fresh calver or treated cow is milked however puts on the cluster see's the tape on cow and pulls down the cover. So no matter who takes off the cluster they cannot let on the milk.

Tested this evening and works very well.:D

Muckit

Can you not just flick up the cover ?☺

pedigree 6

Muckit wrote: »

Can you not just flick up the cover ?☺

You could but if cover is down not for tank. So........
Works the same way if last row goes out and you leave milk in jars and you're wondering is it the 4th or the 5th jar I should be stopping?

blue5000

Good idea P6, won't be long paying for itself, not milking anymore, but is it possible to put in a dumpline if you have jars?

whelan2

pedigree 6 wrote: »

I've always had doing this in the back of my mind. The final straw came when a cow treated for mastitis her milk was let in the bulk tank and the tank of milk had to be let in slurry pit. There's usually two of us milking and tape is put on the treated cows tail till they're ready for the bulk tank but when they are finished milking the hand can automatically go to the switch and let it on.
I don't know if other people have these but I have a fullwood parlour (well a mixture) so I got a plate on a hinge made up to cover the switch. When a fresh calver or treated cow is milked however puts on the cluster see's the tape on cow and pulls down the cover. So no matter who takes off the cluster they cannot let on the milk.

Tested this evening and works very well.:D

Tape and red spray here . Did you test the tank before you dumped it?

pedigree 6

blue5000 wrote: »

Good idea P6, won't be long paying for itself, not milking anymore, but is it possible to put in a dumpline if you have jars?

I don't know if you could put a dumpline in with jars.
I like the jars as you can see straightaway what a cow is giving and they're high enough in the pit so not in the way.
I got the flaps made up with a stainless steel specialist on Monday and they cost 20 euro each.
You get into a routine now when you get to a cow with mastitis. You make sure that switch is not going to let milk through and then put cluster on cow and then you have to look at switch again when you put the flap down.
So then when taking off if you happen to be outside and rush back in and there's a whole row of cows waiting for clusters to be taken off. No matter how much of a rush you're in or thinking of something else. If the flap is down over the switch you know leave milk in jar get bucket empty jar rinse jar and cluster and off you go again.

pedigree 6

whelan2 wrote: »

Tape and red spray here . Did you test the tank before you dumped it?

I had blue spray here and the spray got washed off the cow that day.
So using tape now and no mistaken that just put it on tail between the two bars where you can see it.
I haven't got the test kit so a neighbouring farmer tested it and I got it tested by the owner of the milk tankers and that test comes back in 3 minutes.
Both came back positive.

delaney001

pedigree 6 wrote: »

I had blue spray here and the spray got washed off the cow that day.
So using tape now and no mistaken that just put it on tail between the two bars where you can see it.
I haven't got the test kit so a neighbouring farmer tested it and I got it tested by the owner of the milk tankers and that test comes back in 3 minutes.
Both came back positive.

Coming from an idiot who put antibiotic milk into a tank before, that is a very good idea.
No one is going to take the clusters off and see the panel down and still lift it and send the milk to the tank. The obstruction of the panel in the way will make you stop and look at the cow you've just taken them off and see is she clear or for the churn. It'll become automatic once you see the panel in your way, then there is something different to be done with that milk.
Worst case someone might dump 20L of good milk, but I'd imagine it's very unlikely anyone will throw bad milk into the tank.

C0N0R

We made up a thing years ago, hard to explain, thread a bar through two holes I'll take a picture of it someday and throw it up. I'd hang the bucket below the jar straight away normally helps too

Markcheese

Thats pure brilliant... should have been standard from day one... always hated jars for that reason

pedigree 6

Markcheese wrote: »

Thats pure brilliant... should have been standard from day one... always hated jars for that reason

Surprising how quickly you get used to using them.
My father loves them now and it takes any thinking out of the job.
He won't be banished from the parlour yet plenty more years there still.:D
Whatever excuse I have for making mistakes.:P

Simple thing to make stainless steel piano hinge and ss plate and bolted to cover with SS bolts with a flat head.
It folds back enough and wont fall down unless put down by hand.

patsy_mccabe

Any tips on how to straighten the top bar on a gate without taking off the gate.
The bull jumped it today to get at a bulling heifer. The top hanging iron is set in concrete so would be great not to have to cut it off.

pedigree 6

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Any tips on how to straighten the top bar on a gate without taking off the gate.
The bull jumped it today to get at a bulling heifer. The top hanging iron is set in concrete so would be great not to have to cut it off.

Strap and lift with loader?
Have to careful don't lift hinge out of concrete.
Or else bottle jack on something solid underneath bar.

mayota

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Any tips on how to straighten the top bar on a gate without taking off the gate.
The bull jumped it today to get at a bulling heifer. The top hanging iron is set in concrete so would be great not to have to cut it off.

Bottle jack maybe ? Support the lower bars so as not to bend them down.

emaherx

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Any tips on how to straighten the top bar on a gate without taking off the gate.
The bull jumped it today to get at a bulling heifer. The top hanging iron is set in concrete so would be great not to have to cut it off.

Any picture of the issue? Depends on the gate perhaps a bottle Jack, but you would need to brace the lower bars to stop them bending in the opposite direction.

pedigree 6

Ha! great minds.:D

Muckit

Some bars fell out of a sh1te field gate. Used one of them to make this. Tried it this evening and works well.

Limestone Cowboy

Muckit wrote: »

Some bars fell out of a sh1te field gate. Used one of them to make this. Tried it this evening and works well.

Proper guntering there Muckit!

Muckit

Took me ages to put the green scum on it to give it that authentic guntering look!

mayota

Reggie. wrote: »

What about this
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/category&path=730#container

Anyone using the parweld 160 inverter? Looking for a welder and seems like value.

sea12

mayota wrote: »

Anyone using the parweld 160 inverter? Looking for a welder and seems like value.

Yea I bought one and it works the finest

Kevhog1988

Fencing complete at home today. Not my work. Im here in england earning the bobs to pay for it.

blue5000

I see ye had the travelling salesmen in;)^^^

Kevhog1988

blue5000 wrote: »

I see ye had the travelling salesmen in;)^^^

me?

blue5000

Well I think both yourself and muckit:)

Base price

See these are for sale in Lidl from Monday. Handy for a quick fix

Bullocks

blue5000 wrote: »

Well I think both yourself and muckit:)

I bought a few of those gates a few years ago too ! What a waste of of money

Kevhog1988

blue5000 wrote: »

Well I think both yourself and muckit:)

I bought mine from Ladychapel stores. i hope hes not buying them from pikeys lololol

6270red

pedigree 6 wrote: »

I don't know if you could put a dumpline in with jars.
I like the jars as you can see straightaway what a cow is giving and they're high enough in the pit so not in the way.
I got the flaps made up with a stainless steel specialist on Monday and they cost 20 euro each.
You get into a routine now when you get to a cow with mastitis. You make sure that switch is not going to let milk through and then put cluster on cow and then you have to look at switch again when you put the flap down.
So then when taking off if you happen to be outside and rush back in and there's a whole row of cows waiting for clusters to be taken off. No matter how much of a rush you're in or thinking of something else. If the flap is down over the switch you know leave milk in jar get bucket empty jar rinse jar and cluster and off you go again.

Have a dumpline with jars here! It's the job wouldn't be without it. Press a button milk goes straight out to calf house. Cow milks straight into the dumpline not into the jar.

pedigree 6

6270red wrote: »

Have a dumpline with jars here! It's the job wouldn't be without it. Press a button milk goes straight out to calf house. Cow milks straight into the dumpline not into the jar.

Cheers for that. May look into it. Be a lot handier than buckets alright.
What do you do for a fresh calver, say just want that particular cows milk. Do you milk in jar and take out of jar?
Was going to say have you ever forgot to press the button? But if you did it would still be in the jar.

sea12

Bullocks wrote: »

I bought a few of those gates a few years ago too ! What a waste of of money

Do you mean the quality of the ones you bought or full mesh gates in general