Labour Saving and General Guntering

Bullocks

sea12 wrote: »

Do you mean the quality of the ones you bought or full mesh gates in general

The ones I bought were scrap .
I don't mind full mesh but wouldn't see the need either for it really

delaney001

mayota wrote: »

Anyone using the parweld 160 inverter? Looking for a welder and seems like value.

Have it. Fine machine.

delaney001

Calving shed. Used to be a door. Since replaced with this. Very handy for slipping in and out without any hassle. Cows regularly stick the heads out but can't get their shoulders past.

Markcheese

delaney001 wrote:

Calving shed. Used to be a door. Since replaced with this. Very handy for slipping in and out without any hassle. Cows regularly stick the heads out but can't get their shoulders past.

Thats brilliant.. especially in a calving shed, quick access and more importantly quick exit if necessary...

Kovu

delaney001 wrote: »

Calving shed. Used to be a door. Since replaced with this. Very handy for slipping in and out without any hassle. Cows regularly stick the heads out but can't get their shoulders past.

That's brilliant! Could definitely see one or two of our cows flattening it like it was made of paper though :pac:

foxy farmer

Made a few posts and rails for the trailer to restrain big bags on journey from co-op. Unfortunately I got a dose of "zinc fever " late last night. Was doing the welding outdoors but the plumes of welding smoke got in behind the shield. Flu like symptoms. Extreme cold violent shivering and a feeling of nausea. Felt bad around 10 last night. Got very bad around 12. Was hunched over an electric bar heater trying to get warm. Went to bed around 1.00. Was feeling better around 3.00. Back to normal this morning. Bad stuff to inhale but apparently not toxic. Other metals not so forgiving though. Stainless steel contains chromium which is nasty. Cadmium is bad too.

pedigree 6

Drinking milk is supposed to be good for zinc fever either before and after welding.
Even if you don't believe it it won't do any harm. The creamer the better such as (raw) milk from the tank.

patsy_mccabe

Front Weights I made from scrap for my tractor.

SCOL

I'm looking at making some sort of a rake/ scraper for my lane that's full of pot holes.

I have a vintage ferguson 20 tractor so it not going to be too big. I was looking at youtube for ideas and came up with something to brake up the stone a bar with welded spikes at the front and some angel Iron frame behind to level the stone.
It's something I'm planning on running over the lane a few times per year to keep it in some sort of order. Would I be better making something I could pull behind the tractor with lots of weight on it or a 3 point attachment ?

There's plenty of stone on the lane and it's just compacted over the years.

MickeyShtyles

SCOL wrote: »

I'm looking at making some sort of a rake/ scraper for my lane that's full of pot holes.

I have a vintage ferguson 20 tractor so it not going to be too big. I was looking at youtube for ideas and came up with something to brake up the stone a bar with welded spikes at the front and some angel Iron frame behind to level the stone.
It's something I'm planning on running over the lane a few times per year to keep it in some sort of order. Would I be better making something I could pull behind the tractor with lots of weight on it or a 3 point attachment ?

There's plenty of stone on the lane and it's just compacted over the years.

https://www.fleming-agri.co.uk/uploads/pdf/1377859675--ZMAN---Soilmaster-Manual.pdf

At the bottom of that manual, d'ya see parts 6 & 7?
Is that what yer going for?

SCOL

Yes, something like that.

3 point attachment or just pull it behind the tractor ?

If I just pull it I can load it up with weights as it's only a ferguson 20
or would It be better on the 3 point attachment ?

MickeyShtyles

SCOL wrote: »

Yes, something like that.

3 point attachment or just pull it behind the tractor ?

If I just pull it I can load it up with weights as it's only a ferguson 20
or would It be better on the 3 point attachment ?

If its just loose stone. Could ya just pull an rsj up the road?

pedigree 6

SCOL wrote: »

Yes, something like that.

3 point attachment or just pull it behind the tractor ?

If I just pull it I can load it up with weights as it's only a ferguson 20
or would It be better on the 3 point attachment ?

Here's an idea too.
Made for the ferguson tractor as well. Could make up your own based on it.
Can swivel from one way or another or square on.
http://www.cheffins.co.uk/lot/-534854-machinery-0

SCOL

It hard compacted stone so I need it loosened up first.

greenpetrol

SCOL wrote: »

It hard compacted stone so I need it loosened up first.

Wouldn't go adding spikes and ripping up stone that's bedded in ! An ordinary land level or an rsj will be perfect ! Just to skim the surface and fill in the hollows ! A light skim every week or so at the beginning and after a month you will be sorted ! Rippers on the leveler will weaken your passage and heavy rain will wash away the silt holding it all together

SCOL

Big potholes on the lane a few inches deep, I'll make just a land level first and run it a few times on the lane to see how I get on first maybe extra weight on it for the first few runs ???

greenpetrol

SCOL wrote: »

Big potholes on the lane a few inches deep, I'll make just a land level first and run it a few times on the lane to see how I get on first maybe extra weight on it for the first few runs ???

Reversing may get better results!

Nekarsulm

Guntering at its most basic.
When you borrow a pipe off a lad, but don't check the end untill you're ten miles away......

jimini0

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Guntering at its most basic.
When you borrow a pipe off a lad, but don't check the end untill you're ten miles away......

Is the any job out there that cant be fixed with a bit baler twine

Muckit

Nosey now....What's in the small pit?

Nekarsulm

Muckit wrote: »

Nosey now....What's in the small pit?

Twelve acres of last summers silage, not needed. (Yet!)

Muckit

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Twelve acres of last summers silage, not needed. (Yet!)

Deceiving. 12acres. About the sum total of what I'd stick in a pit!! Not too small at all. Looks smaller
Thought twas treated barley or something extravagant like that!!

Nekarsulm

The pit is sixty foot long and thirty five wide. Theres about seven foot depth at the back wall.
It's just the angle it's caught at.

Do you like the handle of the old Stilson wrench?

Odelay

It's all in the detail! Only copped that now.

emaherx

jimini0 wrote: »

Is the any job out there that cant be fixed with a bit baler twine

I would love to ban the stuff from our farm. Would certainly make agitating and spreading dung easier and maybe all of the gates would be hung properly.

blue5000

emaherx wrote: »

I would love to ban the stuff from our farm. Would certainly make agitating and spreading dung easier and maybe all of the gates would be hung properly.

Lad I know uses hi-tensile wire to tie gates, lovely stuff in slats:mad:

emaherx

blue5000 wrote: »

Lad I know uses hi-tensile wire to tie gates, lovely stuff in slats:mad:

Well I suppose at least twine can be removed with a sharp Stanly knife and only a little swearing.

49801

Old 25g concrete water trough had it and its cable end came off. Couple of tips with a sledge to knock the valve mint and slipped a plastic trough inside the remains after throwing I a fe stones.

Muckit

Ok diesel heads.... Looking for some advice. One of the rubber hoses that goes to the heater in tractor cab has cracked..... again. Happened in 2013 and replaced with new hose. V annoying that it has gone again.

It comes from rad and goes between cab and diesel tank (diesel tank will have to come down) and then goes up the inside of windscreen pillar.
Its at the bend before it goes up cab pillar that it keeps cracking.

Want to do a job now that will last. Could l cut hose and put in a stainless steel or copper pipe bend and jubliee clip them? What would lads recommend?

fastrac94

Muckit wrote: »

Ok diesel heads.... Looking for some advice. One of the rubber hoses that goes to the heater in tractor cab has cracked..... again. Happened in 2013 and replaced with new hose. V annoying that it has gone again.

It comes from rad and goes between cab and diesel tank (diesel tank will have to come down) and then goes up the inside of windscreen pillar.
Its at the bend before it goes up cab pillar that it keeps cracking.

Want to do a job now that will last. Could l cut hose and put in a stainless steel or copper pipe bend and jubliee clip them? What would lads recommend?

Nothing wrong with doing it that way,half the heater pipes in the country have been repaired that way,use the stainless if ya can and it should last.

patsy_mccabe

Muckit wrote: »

Ok diesel heads.... Looking for some advice. One of the rubber hoses that goes to the heater in tractor cab has cracked..... again. Happened in 2013 and replaced with new hose. V annoying that it has gone again.

It comes from rad and goes between cab and diesel tank (diesel tank will have to come down) and then goes up the inside of windscreen pillar.
Its at the bend before it goes up cab pillar that it keeps cracking.

Want to do a job now that will last. Could l cut hose and put in a stainless steel or copper pipe bend and jubliee clip them? What would lads recommend?

Barb elbow fitting with jubilee clips.
https://midlandmetal.com/photos/32412.jpg

Also these types of clips are much better than the cheap Chinese jubilee clips you get in the local hardware store.

blue5000

Yes they are Patsy, until you lose a piece off them, usually at the nut end:o.

pedigree 6

Times are tough. Grass to milk.:pac:

sandydan

that photo of trough reminds me of an issue i had with cattle damaging troughs and ballcocks, i cut a10 inch strip of plastic off a plastic barrel, roughly 2 ft long, folded it and bolted centre of strip onto the inside of piece over ballcock, ends stopped cows from messing with ballcock. a neighbour then suggested putting a screw in insulator onto top of protective piece midway over ballcock and tying a strip of wire from insulator to fence wire, that stopped cattle from walking across trough if pucked by another animal, the plastic troughs were not under wire serving 2 paddocks as i assume that one is.

whelan2

Those plastic troughs are a total pain. Probably ok for sucklers/beef stock, Replacing all of them with big concrete ones here, the big round ones should be flung as far away as possible

pedigree 6

whelan2 wrote: »

Those plastic troughs are a total pain. Probably ok for sucklers/beef stock, Replacing all of them with big concrete ones here, the big round ones should be flung as far away as possible

To yourself and sandydan that tape was only a botch job to stop water from leaking for a short while.
I'm putting in 120 gallon concrete troughs now instead and they're high enough to stop badgers from getting a bath in them.

Nekarsulm

whelan2 wrote: »

Those plastic troughs are a total pain. Probably ok for sucklers/beef stock, Replacing all of them with big concrete ones here, the big round ones should be flung as far away as possible

No matter how level you get the big round ones, they a way seem to fill to the rim at some point, and a windy day sees waves or ripples continously dribbling over the side.

whelan2

Nekarsulm wrote: »

No matter how level you get the big round ones, they a way seem to fill to the rim at some point, and a windy day sees waves or ripples continously dribbling over the side.

Then yesterday noticed the fecking ballcock was stuck down in one were cows were over a week ago, water everywhere

Muckit

Do you have to drain the concrete ones in the wintertime?

delaney001

Muckit wrote: »

Do you have to drain the concrete ones in the wintertime?

In regards to prevent cracking with frost?
A neighbour had a right trick for that. Throw a tennis ball into each. When the water freezes and expands, it'll compress the tennis ball before cracking the walls.
And actually the walls are slanted outwards (like silage wall) now so if the top freezes over, it'll push upwards rather than bust out the walls.

whelan2

Muckit wrote: »

Do you have to drain the concrete ones in the wintertime?

We never do, just clean them out before cows go out in spring

Reggie.

delaney001 wrote: »

In regards to prevent cracking with frost?
A neighbour had a right trick for that. Throw a tennis ball into each. When the water freezes and expands, it'll compress the tennis ball before cracking the walls.
And actually the walls are slanted outwards (like silage wall) now so if the top freezes over, it'll push upwards rather than bust out the walls.

Either that or a plastic bottle with a little water in it to make it stand up in the water. Bottle will be crushed

49801

https://d1hu4133i4rt3z.cloudfront.net/attachments/323/323566-e8f94eb0419ed4b557b60da145c44f2f.jpg

49801 wrote: »

Old 25g concrete water trough had it and its cable end came off. Couple of tips with a sledge to knock the valve mint and slipped a plastic trough inside the remains after throwing I a fe stones.

Sorry pics did not load before. Trying again

https://d1hu4133i4rt3z.cloudfront.net/attachments/323/323564-9caf8a9303d3b283c46adb555fa4fdf9.jpg

https://d1hu4133i4rt3z.cloudfront.net/attachments/323/323568-4da63928a30e0b28e84149c4587a6317.jpg

dohc turbo2

I fitted all concrete troughs last year and we have valves on all of them , when we on last grazing we turn off water and take off cap for emptying over the winter , worked well for us ,

Nekarsulm

Got a couple of slips on these cab steps recently, resulted in a couple of skinned shins and pulled something in the shoulder.
Two extensions should solve the problem.

patsy_mccabe

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Got a couple of slips on these cab steps recently, resulted in a couple of skinned shins and pulled something in the shoulder.
Two extensions should solve the problem.

It's hard enough to weld light stuff like that, isn't it? I find it anyway.
Always seem to end up burning holes in it.

Muckit

Not strictly a farming related adaption, but fitted a PIR sensor off light fitting in back kitchen.

Now when l come in the back door late at night tired with dirty hands, there's always a welcome light to greet me! No gropping behind piles of jackets groping for a light switch!

It's the small things.

Nekarsulm

Patsy, the box section in this case was heavy wall.
Sometimes all you can do is try and start the weld on the heavier piece, and make quick little darts onto the lighter box.

SuperTortoise

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

It's hard enough to weld light stuff like that, isn't it? I find it anyway.
Always seem to end up burning holes in it.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Patsy, the box section in this case was heavy wall.
Sometimes all you can do is try and start the weld on the heavier piece, and make quick little darts onto the lighter box.

Not sure if it's stick or MIG you are using but if you're stick welding it and using a 6013 rod you can run them on negative polarity, so the rod is connected to the negative terminal, less chance of burn through but at the cost of less penetration, most commonly used to weld light sheet metal.

foxy farmer

I picked up 3 mini packs of 1.6mm welding rods a few years ago. Only just finished the first box recently. They're fierce handy to have for very light work. Ideal with an inverter welder. Gave a few to a man who had a square baler knotter in trouble. Think he used them to build up a small bearing or roller. He always reminds me of the evening i gave him the "crowbars". Only place i could get them was from a welding & engineering supplier.