Labour Saving and General Guntering

9935452

tractorporn wrote: »

dzer2 wrote:

Always drill the RSJ and put an angle iron on for this.

dzer2 wrote:

Very easy these days with a battery drill.

dzer2 wrote:

Cost about 3 euros

The father usually welds on hangers to the RSJ but this gate comes down a couple of times a year so an adjustable one would be handy.

Have you any photos of what you knock up?

The lad i work for always welds up his gates. He reckons he would take them down to use in different spots in the summer and lose track of them .
We tend to make our gates to suit where they are being hung .

yellow50HX

Muckit wrote: »

€220 I think for the pair through QTP. Got a lad to weld them on, wouldn't trust my snots. Lad l got is unreal with a welder. Haven't got the bill for that yet. Whatever it us it worth it.

Never used a tractor with hooks before but wouldn'tbe without them now. Reverse and click. Super.

as long as you can get them to line up. have issues getting the mower hitched up, so have found best way to do it is to open them as wide as possible and attach the LHS 1st, then raise to take up the stand then lower until the RHS lines up the push in like the old arms.

almost everything else is straight forward. cant fit the old spud planter or digger with those arms so use an other tractor.

arm controls on the mudgaurds are brillant

yellow50HX

tractorporn wrote: »

The father usually welds on hangers to the RSJ but this gate comes down a couple of times a year so an adjustable one would be handy.

Have you any photos of what you knock up?

i usually leave the bottom hangers in place so dont have to line up the holes on the pillars for the gates. spot of weld to keep them in place

Buford T. Justice XIX

A nice idea to close a gate.

https://twitter.com/j0hn_k/status/905732031388233728

patsy_mccabe

Very clever.

lakill Farm

Buford T. Justice V wrote: »

A nice idea to close a gate.

https://twitter.com/j0hn_k/status/905732031388233728

Aboy John Kelly. A right funny man and good operator by all accounts.

MickeyShtyles

lakill Farm wrote: »

Aboy John Kelly. A right funny man and good operator by all accounts.

Holy Mary Kelly isn't it!

Floki

That concrete is too smooth for cattle.

Wildsurfer

If yard is always kept that clean they won't slip anyways. I presume the tine is welded or bolted at the the back?

Muckit

You set it for rowing or tedding depending on pressure u want on gate:)

renandstimpy

Made this today should keep foals in on hot day on way to sales .
Had 2 bars left over from gates of cattle trailer last year . Aluminium plate from delivery pallet.. trim €6 .... bolts €25 . Doors can close with it on .

MickeyShtyles

At long last I bought a decent light for the workshop. Gone from a halogen work light to a 17w LED tube. Easier om the eyes for a start and nearly no shadow. Nicer on the esb bill too. €36 in woodies.

ganmo

anyone have a sandblaster? ive a few jobs for one but i've never used one

lakill Farm

ganmo wrote: »

anyone have a sandblaster? ive a few jobs for one but i've never used one

No thjnking of getting a small pot here also. Have a few rims to do. And loader bucket and grab. I have a 200l compressor and dad was saying it will be ok for small jobs but on larger jobs struggle for air volume.

Pots are cheap enough and grit/glass priced ok

Muckit

It's a dirty job with potential health risks. You'd want top notch PPE to protect lungs and body.

You need massive amounts of air to run a half decent sandblaster. Lad l got to do a few jobs for me had one of those road compressors feeding his system. Then you can only imagine the amount of blasting sand you'd get through.

Wouldn't be worth it if only doing a few small bits for the savings you'd make.

lakill Farm

Muckit wrote: »

It's a dirty job with potential health risks. You'd want top notch PPE to protect lungs and body.

You need massive amounts of air to run a half decent sandblaster. Lad l got to do a few jobs for me had one of those road compressors feeding his system. Then you can only imagine the amount of blasting sand you'd get through.

Wouldn't be worth it if only doing a few small bits for the savings you'd make.

It's not the saving it's being able to clean an item tonight and prime it and paint it all within a day.

Most lads don't want small jobs it seems.

I was quoted 250e cash to paint a 5ft beet bucket. Like that's robbery

Muckit

Everything is dear until u are doing it yourself and trying to earn a crust. I say the same for my accountant fee for tax return!

Lads doing blasting usually put on etching primer straight after. Two pack paint ain't cheap if a few litres needed.

lakill Farm

Muckit wrote: »

Everything is dear until u are doing it yourself and trying to earn a crust. I say the same for my accountant fee for tax return!

Lads doing blasting usually put on etching primer straight after. Two pack paint ain't cheap if a few litres needed.

Haha. You may message me so.

Ye I know paint is expensice. But lad wasn't blasting just painting. 1.5 litres would have painted it. E50 costs

visatorro

Sandblasting is the dirtiest job going. Even with high quality masks lads reckon you can still taste the dust, which means you're inhaling it. If your only doing small items lakill, if you threw another couple of hundred with it you'd have brand new stuff. Far better off imo

keepalive213

Only a hobby farmer so spending hundreds on front weights is not really an option.

https://ibb.co/m2sa4F

Nekarsulm

keepalive213 wrote: »

Only a hobby farmer so spending hundreds on front weights is not really an option.

https://ibb.co/m2sa4F

Front boiler!

keepalive213

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Front boiler!

If i need extra weight i can always fill it with water ;-)

Muckit

Is that an mf133?

shootermcgee

lakill Farm wrote:

No thjnking of getting a small pot here also. Have a few rims to do. And loader bucket and grab. I have a 200l compressor and dad was saying it will be ok for small jobs but on larger jobs struggle for air volume.

lakill Farm wrote:

Pots are cheap enough and grit/glass priced ok

I worked with a sandblaster when times were hard and its not something that can be done diy
It's extremely dirty and quite dangerous and if the sand is damp in the pot it will take 2 lads to work

patsy_mccabe

keepalive213 wrote: »

If i need extra weight i can always fill it with water ;-)

Water doesn't add much weight. Steel is 8 times heavier.

lakill Farm

shootermcgee wrote: »

I worked with a sandblaster when times were hard and its not something that can be done diy
It's extremely dirty and quite dangerous and if the sand is damp in the pot it will take 2 lads to work

For the odd bit I would be doing. Opening a new bag wount matter that much.

keepalive213

Muckit wrote: »

Is that an mf133?

No its a long suffering mf165

SCOL

With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage
maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide.

I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ?

I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.

renandstimpy

SCOL wrote: »

With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage
maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide.

I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ?

I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.

I have something similar done as you ill post pictures later .. i used 3 mm acrylic sheets with no problem .

lakill Farm

SCOL wrote: »

With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage
maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide.

I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ?

I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.

Putting the young lads trampoline and swing set into the workshop this winter for him. Let him burn off energy and excuse not to be under the OH feet

Muckit

And a great excuse not to be able to fix things! Two birds, one stone!!

lakill Farm

Muckit wrote: »

And a great excuse not to be able to fix things! Two birds, one stone!!

Susssh.

foxy farmer

SCOL wrote: »

With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage
maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide.

I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ?

I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.

Watching to do something similar here but more for shelter at back door when getting out of the car in the rain. I saw one recently but the roof was low and very flat and the box profile clear sheeting was gone green and had leaves etc. on it.
I'm putting down concrete around the house at the moment and the next section will be covered so I must put in thicker floor to carry uprights. I'm googling car ports to get ideas.

renandstimpy

I done kinda the same thing .... shelter at back door and clothes line .













I got mismeasured windows off donedeal... still have to flash to wall on house but only really drips down once in a while depending on direction of rain .

L1985

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

larthehar

L1985 wrote: »

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

http://www.oneilleng.ie/index.php/product/oneill-calf-sheep-staller/
Make sonething like this?

L1985

I did look at that one actually but I don't know would it hold a calf? It doesn't look the sturdiest although being able to move it would be very handy ....and would it be tough enough work getting a calf to stick his head in it.....? If it's an open pen you would need more then one person I'd say to get it in position and that's what I don't have.. thanks for the suggestion and I'm not ruling it out I just didn't know if that would be the best option. We have suckler-calves aren't too bad but not about to give you a cuddle either!!!
Actually just scrolled down and saw the video-looks a better job then i thought and looks easy to manoeuvre so more interested in it now-might try see a sample at the ploughing!

charolais0153

L1985 wrote: »

I did look at that one actually but I don't know would it hold a calf? It doesn't look the sturdiest although being able to move it would be very handy ....and would it be tough enough work getting a calf to stick his head in it.....? If it's an open pen you would need more then one person I'd say to get it in position and that's what I don't have.. thanks for the suggestion and I'm not ruling it out I just didn't know if that would be the best option. We have suckler-calves aren't too bad but not about to give you a cuddle either!!!
Actually just scrolled down and saw the video-looks a better job then i thought and looks easy to manoeuvre so more interested in it now-might try see a sample at the ploughing!

If calves are strong theyll pull it off tge gate. First calf we bad done that.

A small pen and pull a gate around the calf and tie it to wall with chain. Best job

L1985

Yeah I was thinking as much re a strong calf-actually charlaois that has given me very good food for thought-we have crash barriers the metal Ones that I could adapt very easily and could use in different pens as well.....

GrasstoMilk

L1985 wrote: »

I did look at that one actually but I don't know would it hold a calf? It doesn't look the sturdiest although being able to move it would be very handy ....and would it be tough enough work getting a calf to stick his head in it.....? If it's an open pen you would need more then one person I'd say to get it in position and that's what I don't have.. thanks for the suggestion and I'm not ruling it out I just didn't know if that would be the best option. We have suckler-calves aren't too bad but not about to give you a cuddle either!!!
Actually just scrolled down and saw the video-looks a better job then i thought and looks easy to manoeuvre so more interested in it now-might try see a sample at the ploughing!

Have one here. It's dairy calves we have so a big difference. But I think it's a mighty yoke. Calves go into it very easy and out very easy. Run them out around the pen and guide what one you want into it.
But it's only as strong as the gate you put it on. Needs a good heavy bar to take the pulling

lakill Farm

2 pallets into crush along with them. Narrow it up

L1985 wrote: »

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

yellow50HX

L1985 wrote: »

Hi guys -anyone any ideas of an easy way of restraining young calves if you need to tag them ,dose them etc. I usually tag at one day old so that's not too bad but had to inject a 5week old and put my back out with the twist he gave recently. I was holding him and injecting him at the same time....halters are so much hassle to put on them that usually when I get them in the position for the halter I just end up doing what ever without it. Crush wouldn't work for the smaller calves and honestly I can't justify 400€ on a dehorning box when we have a polled herd....any simple ideas of something I could convert or make that's not a feat of engineering and wouldn't cost the earth? Might be asking a bit much but just thought I'd see ppls ideas

we use the gate to the calvign pen as a mini crush for calves, works brilliantly, need two people though.

the dividing gate in the slatted shed is on the front of the H iron and the gate to the calving pen on the rear. when you close up the gate there is enough room for a calf and you can access them through the gate for tagging and injecting. gate is 14ft so plenty of leverage. very handy for sucklers. open the gate and coral the calf in then close up fast and push. big the bigger lads they will push out but we can do it for calfs up to a few months old.

L1985

"we use the gate to the calvign pen as a mini crush for calves, works brilliantly, need two people though.

the dividing gate in the slatted shed is on the front of the H iron and the gate to the calving pen on the rear. when you close up the gate there is enough room for a calf and you can access them through the gate for tagging and injecting. gate is 14ft so plenty of leverage. very handy for sucklers. open the gate and coral the calf in then close up fast and push. big the bigger lads they will push out but we can do it for calfs up to a few months old.[/quote]"

Thanks for that. I went looking at our crush at the weekend( we have one from enniscorthy farm services) and got such a surprise as it can hold young calves. I thought it would be way too big!! So that's great for when I'm doing them in the yard as I run them up the crush. Also went looking at our calving gate after your comment. It's way too big but I think if I drill another hole for a notch and weld another piece at the top we can use it for the calves as well which would be v handy as that's where we usually have them. I wouldn't have thought to look there so thanks for all of the help guys

SCOL

SCOL wrote: »

With all the wet weather we are having and young kids I'm looking at building a shed for drying closes/workshop at the back of the garage
maybe a lean to with a full perspex roof and maybe sides that can open for air flow. probably about 12-15 foot long and the same wide.

I live on VERY exposed hill but the garage would be blocking the west winds so only easterly wind would be a problem. would the perspex roof be strong enough with a wind getting under the roof and breaking the sheets ?

I also need to figure out how to attach the roof to the side as It's k rend finish.

I'm going to go with a car port style. 22 feet long by appx 18 feet wide attached to the back of the garage. Power float the floor as level as possible for a workshop. I'm thinking maybe two 9 foot gates each of it so it can be closed if needed.
What's the best way to attach the roof to the garage ? I was thinking of bolting rectangular box section to the garage and work off that ? or are there some sort of fittings to nail into the wall to hang the joists from.

lakill Farm

SCOL wrote: »

I'm going to go with a car port style. 22 feet long by appx 18 feet wide attached to the back of the garage. Power float the floor as level as possible for a workshop. I'm thinking maybe two 9 foot gates each of it so it can be closed if needed.
What's the best way to attach the roof to the garage ? I was thinking of bolting rectangular box section to the garage and work off that ? or are there some sort of fittings to nail into the wall to hang the joists from.

there are single and double joist carriers you can buy ( I have them around the stairs in my stables :rolleyes:) but I wount like to rely on them for what your talking about doing

Nekarsulm

For an 18 foot wide lean-to, you will need good height at the garage side to give adequate slope to your roof, while still having at least 10 foot height at the low end.

Bullocks

SCOL wrote: »

I'm going to go with a car port style. 22 feet long by appx 18 feet wide attached to the back of the garage. Power float the floor as level as possible for a workshop. I'm thinking maybe two 9 foot gates each of it so it can be closed if needed.
What's the best way to attach the roof to the garage ? I was thinking of bolting rectangular box section to the garage and work off that ? or are there some sort of fittings to nail into the wall to hang the joists from.

What are you roofing it with ? You could rawlbolt a 9 X 2 to the gable and use joist hangers on that to take the timber

SCOL

I was think of going up to about 13 feet that is to the eves of the garage so it would be appx 3 foot of a fall. I was going to use the clear corrugated sheets as it going to used to dry closed / workshop.

patsy_mccabe

Cool bit of guntering;

https://www.donedeal.ie/trailers-for-sale/18ft-cattle-livestock-trailer/15305111

lakill Farm

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Cool bit of guntering;

https://www.donedeal.ie/trailers-for-sale/18ft-cattle-livestock-trailer/15305111

Called him about the bale trailer last week. Wanted to know price for trailer with 2 axles.
1 axle e5k. 2 axles e8300