Labour Saving and General Guntering

TheFarrier

A load of sheeting for the roof of the workshop landed here this morning.

What screws are best for attaching 0.6mm corrugated to timber??
Would I be better pre-drilling holes, or using tek screws?
Or a hammer and a punch before screwing??
Also would I be right in thinking the screws are to be applied into the heights of the corrugated and not the dips??

Thanks in advance

Reggie.

TheFarrier wrote: »

A load of sheeting for the roof of the workshop landed here this morning.

What screws are best for attaching 0.6mm corrugated to timber??
Would I be better pre-drilling holes, or using tek screws?
Or a hammer and a punch before screwing??
Also would I be right in thinking the screws are to be applied into the heights of the corrugated and not the dips??

Thanks in advance

Tek screws best job. For roof go through the highest part of the cladding not in the valley of it. Also don't overtighten the screws as you might damage the rubber washer on it

SCOL

I always put the screws ( the one's with the rubber washer ) on the bottom of the valley.

Reggie.

SCOL wrote: »

I always put the screws ( the one's with the rubber washer ) on the bottom of the valley.

Did that here and the roof leaked ever since all over shed done opposite and never a problem

TheFarrier

Reggie. wrote: »

Tek screws best job. For roof go through the highest part of the cladding not in the valley of it. Also don't overtighten the screws as you might damage the rubber washer on it

Thanks for the swift replies.

I've had a few lads telling me the last few days that I can expect condensation to drip from the clearlite panels in frosty weather.

They all said to put a clear plastic sheet under them, but none of them could advise what I could use for this, or where I could get it.

Any ideas??

lakill Farm

I was told

You tex screw the valley in box profile.
And the top of the curve in corrigation

Never had an issue here with either done like that

TheFarrier wrote: »

Thanks for the swift replies.

I've had a few lads telling me the last few days that I can expect condensation to drip from the clearlite panels in frosty weather.

They all said to put a clear plastic sheet under them, but none of them could advise what I could use for this, or where I could get it.

Any ideas??

Reggie.

TheFarrier wrote: »

Thanks for the swift replies.

I've had a few lads telling me the last few days that I can expect condensation to drip from the clearlite panels in frosty weather.

They all said to put a clear plastic sheet under them, but none of them could advise what I could use for this, or where I could get it.

Any ideas??

Never had condensation problems with clear sheeting once the pitch of the roof was at a good enough angle

lakill Farm

Reggie. wrote: »

Never had condensation problems with clear sheeting once the pitch of the roof was at a good enough angle

I don't use clear sheeting here. Straight sheeting only. No danger when roofing. Or leaks. And they discolour after a few years anyway.

Muckit

TheFarrier wrote: »

A load of sheeting for the roof of the workshop landed here this morning.

What screws are best for attaching 0.6mm corrugated to timber??
Would I be better pre-drilling holes, or using tek screws?
Or a hammer and a punch before screwing??
Also would I be right in thinking the screws are to be applied into the heights of the corrugated and not the dips??

Thanks in advance

Tell them at store that you are screwing into timber as there is a coarser thread on these tek screws than for tapping into steel.

You will have to drill hole in galvanise l would think.

SCOL

What's the best angle as I'm working on a lean to at the back of my garage.

I was thinking 2/3 feet over a 18/20 foot length I'm going 6 lengths of box section
with 3 clear sheets. using 6 x 3 1/2 inch RSJ's for the uprights one bay wide using the
steel beams at 6 meters.

Czhornet

Tex screws are the job, you may need to put a small dent/hole in the sheeting to stop the tex screw from wandering off while you get it started. Always have done it on the ridge of the sheet and never an issue. Even a dot of Tec 7 would help if you need to be certain of a good seal, never silicone it will rust the galvanise over time. We put a white roofing Tyvek membrane under our sheeting to stop drops in frosty weather just in case. Nothing worse then get a cold drop down the back of you neck on a nice frosty morning when it starts to thaw!

Attie

One of these are good to leave a small dent so you can get the tec screws started.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/142463123698?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=46846106558&rlsatarget=pla-351087429330&abcId=1128966&adtype=pla&merchantid=113114931&poi=&googleloc=9045189&device=m&campaignid=857332737&crdt=0&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-134428-41853-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%252Fi%252F142463123698%253Fchn%253Dps%2526dispItem%253D1%26itemid%3D142463123698%26targetid%3D351087429330%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9045189%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D857332737%26adgroupid%3D46846106558%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-351087429330%26abcId%3D1128966%26merchantid%3D113114931%26gclid%3DCjwKCAjwgvfOBRB7EiwAeP7ehqREnd29PBx0pWNd_2ULH_bixFcDILjeUXy7Zs1yQ58ln2LwJzjuRRoCHp8QAvD_BwE%26srcrot%3D710-134428-41853-0%26rvr_id%3D1333108446130

Reggie.

lakill Farm wrote: »

I don't use clear sheeting here. Straight sheeting only. No danger when roofing. Or leaks. And they discolour after a few years anyway.

The new ones don't discolour at all I believe

raypallas

lakill Farm wrote:

I don't use clear sheeting here. Straight sheeting only. No danger when roofing. Or leaks. And they discolour after a few years anyway.

I'd be putting in a steel mesh under any clear sheets in any new sheds as well and retro-fitting any older sheds to prevent a possible fall.

patsy_mccabe

raypallas wrote: »

I'd be putting in a steel mesh under any clear sheets in any new sheds as well and retro-fitting any older sheds to prevent a possible fall.

At the ploughing this year saw a stand where they had lengths of 3/4" or so galvanised rebar slotted under the clear sheets. They had 3" or so bent back at the top to stop them slipping down. Very simple solution and easily retrofitted.

dzer2

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

At the ploughing this year saw a stand where they had lengths of 3/4" or so galvanised rebar slotted under the clear sheets. They had 3" or so bent back at the top to stop them slipping down. Very simple solution and easily retrofitted.

Ah should have patented it few yrs back.:D:D

patsy_mccabe

Hardly guntering, but some serious skill all the same.

gctest50

properly gunther'd power hammer for making the above ^^^^^^^^^

SCOL

I upgraded my welder old welder to an 200AMP Inverted Welder a cheap Chinese one for £99 stg.

I made a step that will bolt onto the toe bar. The photo's are a bit poor quality.

patsy_mccabe

SCOL wrote: »

I upgraded my welder old welder to an 200AMP Inverted Welder a cheap Chinese one for £99 stg.

I made a step that will bolt onto the toe bar. The photo's are a bit poor quality.

Nice job, but will you leave it on going along the road? You know that question when you apply for insurance - Have you modified the vehicle in any way?

SCOL

Yes, I'm going to bolt it on and off every time the kids get into it !!! I might need to make a bracket for holding
the spanner.

I could have bought a "Land Rover" one for €250 ish

patsy_mccabe

So it's kind of a loading ramp for kids? :cool:

SCOL

Or an extended bumper for when the wife is driving !!!

Muckit

Just make sure to stick a oul rag in their gob before you racket strap them down or you won't be able to hear the radio!!

SCOL

I done that to the wife last night !!!!

Nekarsulm

Very low level guntering, but was cutting a hedge on Friday, between the pi55ing rain and chopped leaves you could hardly see out the side window.
This magnetic window cleaner works quite well, and was only a few euro in a Discount shop.

Muckit

Does moving the inside one move the outside bit? Good idea!

Reggie.

Muckit wrote: »

Does moving the inside one move the outside bit? Good idea!

Yeah like a fish tank cleaner

mengele

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Very low level guntering, but was cutting a hedge on Friday, between the pi55ing rain and chopped leaves you could hardly see out the side window.
This magnetic window cleaner works quite well, and was only a few euro in a Discount shop.

what kind of tractor is that?

Reggie.

mengele wrote: »

what kind of tractor is that?

Fiat

Nekarsulm

Reggie. wrote: »

Fiat

SAME Leopard 85. About 1983 ish.

Those cleaning yokes are marketed for cleaning the outside of upstairs windows.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

SAME Leopard 85. About 1983 ish.

Dammit

Track9

Im looking for help /advice please .
We are using round feeders for silage at the moment. I would like so as that one doesn't have to jump down form the tractor to lift & reset the round feeder, which can be tough when its raining & wind is howling.
I saw one company selling an arm that attaches to the bale handler which lifts the Round Feeder & resets it , all done from the tractor. As I dont have a budget for the 13/ 1400 e mentioned I would like to make one ourselves .
Has any one solved this issue & can you please send me a diagram or photo . It would be much appreciated . Regards
Track 9

Nekarsulm

Track9 wrote: »

Im looking for help /advice please .
We are using round feeders for silage at the moment. I would like so as that one doesn't have to jump down form the tractor to lift & reset the round feeder, which can be tough when its raining & wind is howling.
I saw one company selling an arm that attaches to the bale handler which lifts the Round Feeder & resets it , all done from the tractor. As I dont have a budget for the 13/ 1400 e mentioned I would like to make one ourselves .
Has any one solved this issue & can you please send me a diagram or photo . It would be much appreciated . Regards
Track 9

Are you feeding with a front end loader, and if so, are you using just a spike, or a grab on the loader?

Track9

Unfortunately we dont have a Front Loader .We have a two wheel drive Massey.
All feeding work done with Handler ( usually ) or Bale Spike operated from three point linkage.
The Arm thing I saw on demonstration attaches to the Bale Handler .

Nekarsulm

You could make something similar for about 200, and a second hand ram, I would think.

Or how about this?

https://www.donedeal.ie/plantmachinery-for-sale/massey-80-power-loader-with-bucket-amp-brackets/15041649

Track9

Yes with the right man on the job im sure its possible.
This is why im asking if any one made such a lift arm & hoping to get some rough diagrams or photos .
Im sure theres others who have the same problem ev time they go to fill the round feeder using the three point linkage .

Nobbies

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Very low level guntering, but was cutting a hedge on Friday, between the pi55ing rain and chopped leaves you could hardly see out the side window.
This magnetic window cleaner works quite well, and was only a few euro in a Discount shop.

What shop did you get the window wizard in?thanks

Nekarsulm

Got it in Dealz, but Woodies, Mr Price and Homebase etc all sell them.

delaney001

New shed going up here and I see something very clever under the clear roof sheets

The rods hook over the top of the first timber and run down along the 'peak' of sheet. Don't know would it Stop your foot going through but you definitely wouldn't fit through.

patsy_mccabe

For those of us who think we can weld;

Reggie.

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

For those of us who think we can weld;

Savage

blue5000

Has anyone tried electrolysis for removing rust? I tried giving it a go on a small scale.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/blue5th/sets/72157687454363101

Thepillowman

Haven't used electrolysis but if you are not in a hurry molasses and water (9 parts water 1 part molasses) soak for 24hrs rinse off and give it a rub of a stiff brush .Repeat if necessary.

SuperTortoise

^Watched an interesting video on rust removal a while back, see below.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCuQquR-rzo

jd06

Hi all, just wondering has anyone converted a yard scraper to a euro hitch for front loader
The thing is I also need it on the 3 point linkage
Any pics would be helpful

K.G.

jd06 wrote: »

Hi all, just wondering has anyone converted a yard scraper to a euro hitch for front loader
The thing is I also need it on the 3 point linkage
Any pics would be helpful

my yard scraper fits on the bale spike easy to throw and off and back weight fits spikes as well

Nekarsulm

Weld euro brackets on the back of the scraper, so you can use either way.

larthehar

A neighbour of ours put euro brackets on all the forks, scrapers, weights and buckets etc.. made a euro bracket adaptor for 3 point linkage on hydraulic toplink.. so they can fit on front or back of the tractor.. he uses the weight to drive stakes!

Nekarsulm

A mate of mine built this yard scraper. Handiest thing ever! Hydrostatic greens mower that had had it's cylinder mowers scrapped.
He can run down the sides of the parlour, scrape the collecting yard and do all the slats in minutes.
Turns in its own length.
3 cylinder Yanmar diesel 20hp engine. He got the scraper made and galvanized and that cost almost half of the price of the mower!