Labour Saving and General Guntering

king_of_inismac

Just heat the tag with a lighter and it will eventually melt off. Do it outside since the fumes are bad. Heat ye side further from the material. Eventually the spring will release and the tag will come off.

Had the same problem with a coat I bought in the USA

Buford T. Justice XIX

Bit of emergency guntering last night. Plastic in the tunnel ripped just as I came in so a piece of 2x1, two vice grips and a couple of feet of rope sorted it.

darragh_haven

Buford T. Justice V wrote: »

Bit of emergency guntering last night. Plastic in the tunnel ripped just as I came in so a piece of 2x1, two vice grips and a couple of feet of rope sorted it.

Never leave home with out it...... vice grips, that is

Grade A guntering sheriff!

ganmo

i bet there was a few choice words when ya saw that

Buford T. Justice XIX

ganmo wrote: »

i bet there was a few choice words when ya saw that

A few alright. If I wasn't so lazy and went down earlier, I would have saved the gable end of the shed too. Maybe:(

wrangler

Buford T. Justice V wrote: »

Bit of emergency guntering last night. Plastic in the tunnel ripped just as I came in so a piece of 2x1, two vice grips and a couple of feet of rope sorted it.

Will probably need a complete cover now, how long is it there,
My cover is five years now and no problem so far, the supplier claims ten years

Buford T. Justice XIX

wrangler wrote: »

Will probably need a complete cover now, how long is it there,
My cover is five years now and no problem so far, the supplier claims ten years

I think it's there 7 years now. The corner in the picture there is open to the cattle coming into the collection yard since I recovered the tunnel. I had a bull who used to keep scratching his head on the corner so he wore away the corner. I'm putting up a pole there to hang a gate and stop things like that happening in future.

I'll have a better look later in the year and see what patching can be done to see if it can last another year or two.

Muckit

I'm thinking of getting a euro quick hitch and mating it to 3-point links. Has anyone ever done this? Doesnt seem to be something that can be bought off the shelf. Is it a hair brained idea?

tractorporn

Muckit wrote: »

I'm thinking of getting a euro quick hitch and mating it to 3-point links. Has anyone ever done this? Doesnt seem to be something that can be bought off the shelf. Is it a hair brained idea?

Have seen the reverse on DoneDeal ie euro brackets for front loader with lift arms and a mini top link to lift your three point stuff on the loader.

https://www.donedeal.ie/otherfarmmachinery-for-sale/dowd-engineering-multi-link-adapter/10731062

It shouldn't be too hard to Gunther something the opposite direction?

larthehar

Muckit wrote: »

I'm thinking of getting a euro quick hitch and mating it to 3-point links. Has anyone ever done this? Doesnt seem to be something that can be bought off the shelf. Is it a hair brained idea?

I know a lad that has done it.. he also put euro brackets on almost everything in the yard too.. he also made up the euro to 3pt linkage with toplink for some stuff.. handy to change things quick but hard to justify.. he got a load of backets somewhere for nothing that were welded wrong.. hence the idea!

patsy_mccabe

Muckit wrote: »

I'm thinking of getting a euro quick hitch and mating it to 3-point links. Has anyone ever done this? Doesnt seem to be something that can be bought off the shelf. Is it a hair brained idea?

PTO shaft?? I think thats why the back frame is in an 'A' shape, to allow for the shaft.

emaherx

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

PTO shaft?? I think thats why the back frame is in an 'A' shape, to allow for the shaft.

I was thinking of something similar to Muckit. I presume it's not to replace an A frame but to fit loader implements on 3 point hitch.

My thinking was to transport an extra implement out to outfarm. So fork/grab on loader and bucket on back (sometimes useful to have both while cleaning out shed). Also could turn loader bucket into handy transport box.

Muckit

That's my thinking alright.

Base price

Advice please. I've been thinking of buying an inverter welder for OH and was going to buy one of the Lidl/Aldi ones but my brother told me that they are limited to 2/2.5mm rods ??. OH has a oil cooled welder in the workshop (old dairy) but it is awkward/heavy to move around and it blows fuses when use in other sheds.
He would be using it to do repairs like gate hangers, feed barriers that sort of thing. I was looking at this one which is on sale at the moment, would it be sufficient for that type of work. BTW I don't want to pay big money as it would not be used that often.
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=649&product_id=4677

patsy_mccabe

Base price wrote: »

Advice please. I've been thinking of buying an inverter welder for OH and was going to buy one of the Lidl/Aldi ones but my brother told me that they are limited to 2/2.5mm rods ??. OH has a oil cooled welder in the workshop (old dairy) but it is awkward/heavy to move around and it blows fuses when use in other sheds.
He would be using it to do repairs like gate hangers, feed barriers that sort of thing. I was looking at this one which is on sale at the moment, would it be sufficient for that type of work. BTW I don't want to pay big money as it would not be used that often.
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=649&product_id=4677

I was actually looking at that welder before. Here's the full spec on it from the manufacturer;
http://www.parweld.co.uk/shop/mma-inverter-machines/xts-142-mma-inverter/

It will take rods up to 3.2mm which is fine for most farm work.
I'm no expert but it says the supply should be fused to 16A. That would be more than the normal 13A sockets so to be safe proper 16A sockets/plugs should be used. Might be worth checking all this with an electrician first.

Someone else might be able to explain 'Duty Cycle' to you.

Zr105

Muckit wrote: »

I'm thinking of getting a euro quick hitch and mating it to 3-point links. Has anyone ever done this? Doesnt seem to be something that can be bought off the shelf. Is it a hair brained idea?

No reason it couldn’t be done, there’s headstocks on DoneDeal for around 3/400 and could probably be made a lot cheaper and simpler if you didn’t want an auto latch set up.

I’ve often thought I’d make up one if we got a front linkage, but I was thinking of making it up something similar to a power box setup with the rams down the back as it would give more angle than a standard hydraulic top link. Something similar to the way these are set up

https://www.donedeal.ie/view/16692679

Zr105

Base price wrote: »

Advice please. I've been thinking of buying an inverter welder for OH and was going to buy one of the Lidl/Aldi ones but my brother told me that they are limited to 2/2.5mm rods ??. OH has a oil cooled welder in the workshop (old dairy) but it is awkward/heavy to move around and it blows fuses when use in other sheds.
He would be using it to do repairs like gate hangers, feed barriers that sort of thing. I was looking at this one which is on sale at the moment, would it be sufficient for that type of work. BTW I don't want to pay big money as it would not be used that often.
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=649&product_id=4677

We had the parweld 160amp before it served well for a lot of welding then it got a bit of a roasting and burnt it out. Have a thermal arc 175 of ept in Carlow now.

We had the parweld on a 13amp plug and you’d blow a fuse every now and again if you were welding heavy up over 120amps.

The duty cycle basically means how long you can weld continuously for, so basically if it says it’s 60% @100amps it means you can weld for 6 out of every 10 minutes at 100amps lower amps will allow more time welding higher amps less time.
In reality with changing rods and chipping the slag off and stuff you’d be doing well to reach the full of the time

larthehar

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I was actually looking at that welder before. Here's the full spec on it from the manufacturer;
http://www.parweld.co.uk/shop/mma-inverter-machines/xts-142-mma-inverter/

It will take rods up to 3.2mm which is fine for most farm work.
I'm no expert but it says the supply should be fused to 16A. That would be more than the normal 13A sockets so to be safe proper 16A sockets/plugs should be used. Might be worth checking all this with an electrician first.

Someone else might be able to explain 'Duty Cycle' to you.

I have a 175A thermal arc, suppose to take 4mm rods but i have never used them yet.. great little welder, have it on a 13amp socket and there is no issues.. mostly set between 80-100A for 3.2mm rods.. would burn too deep higher than that. I have never measured the current draw @100A but i often meant to for the craic..
The duty cycle refers to the time it will run before overheating, so 20% means at 140A you can weld constantly for 2 minutes before it will trip. With my 175A welding at 100A or 60% of the max power + changing rods, cleaning slag etc it has never even come close to getting hot.. can.t rem the duty cycle but could be 30%.. all in all, for a few reapairs you will never hit it!

J.O. Farmer

Base price wrote: »

Advice please. I've been thinking of buying an inverter welder for OH and was going to buy one of the Lidl/Aldi ones but my brother told me that they are limited to 2/2.5mm rods ??. OH has a oil cooled welder in the workshop (old dairy) but it is awkward/heavy to move around and it blows fuses when use in other sheds.
He would be using it to do repairs like gate hangers, feed barriers that sort of thing. I was looking at this one which is on sale at the moment, would it be sufficient for that type of work. BTW I don't want to pay big money as it would not be used that often.
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=649&product_id=4677

That should be a pretty good welder for work round the farm. The inverter means it draws less power than the oil cooled welder which should eliminate the problem with blowing fuses.

It's also very light and portable and 3.2 mm rods should be plenty enough for minor repairs like gates and hangers.

The Rabbi

Can you run the inverter welders off a generator?I was told there can be problems.I drag the Triangle into the front bucket and the pto genny on the back,handy for gates around the place.

patsy_mccabe

Have an old welder here for over 20 years. There's a knob on the front to control the current but the scale is well worm off. It's heavy though, over 30Kgs. The one above is 4.5Kgs. Big difference.

mad-for-tar

Muckit wrote: »

I'm thinking of getting a euro quick hitch and mating it to 3-point links. Has anyone ever done this? Doesnt seem to be something that can be bought off the shelf. Is it a hair brained idea?

I made up a frame like this to take Euro implements about 18 years ago as an Ag College project. Still using it today although its primary purpose is for a home made weight block on the rear of the tractor. I can try get a pic of it for you over next day or 2 if that's any good?

Base price

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Have an old welder here for over 20 years. There's a knob on the front to control the current but the scale is well worm off. It's heavy though, over 30Kgs. The one above is 4.5Kgs. Big difference.

OH's welder is like yours in that its heavy and cumbersome to move. It's a Pickhill Bantam and he would never part with it.

thestinge

Was getting fed up jumping up and down on the recycling every week, also allowed us make full use of the general waste until pay by weight came in this year.






Picture post one coat of paint, hence the masking tape. Also I make no excuses for the welds, one thing I ain't is a welder.

SuperTortoise

Base price wrote: »

Advice please. I've been thinking of buying an inverter welder for OH and was going to buy one of the Lidl/Aldi ones but my brother told me that they are limited to 2/2.5mm rods ??. OH has a oil cooled welder in the workshop (old dairy) but it is awkward/heavy to move around and it blows fuses when use in other sheds.
He would be using it to do repairs like gate hangers, feed barriers that sort of thing. I was looking at this one which is on sale at the moment, would it be sufficient for that type of work. BTW I don't want to pay big money as it would not be used that often.
http://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=649&product_id=4677

Parweld is actually a decent enough budget brand, that welder is absolutely fine for the work you described, great price too, Don't go near the aldi/lidl welders.

SCOL

I upgraded my welder from an oil cooled 25Kg ish welder that kept blowing fuses to a 200amp inverter that I bought it's a cheap Chinese
for €100 and works great.




https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Display-Inverter-Anti-Stick-Complete/dp/B019GGWTES/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1515143536&sr=8-4&keywords=welder

foxy farmer

Some people would break iron. Neighbour rang me on Wednesday to see could I do a repair job to the loader. This is what I was greeted with. In fairness the box is only 4mm thick.
Took a chance on repairing it for him after getting a more experienced opinion first.

enricoh

foxy farmer wrote: »

Some people would break iron. Neighbour rang me on Wednesday to see could I do a repair job to the loader. This is what I was greeted with. In fairness the box is only 4mm thick.
Took a chance on repairing it for him after getting a more experienced opinion first.

4mm is a bit of a joke. How much extra would it cost to make it out of 6 or 8mm? Sod all I'd say.
Saw a fresh case mini digger with the same craic either 3 or 4mm box.
Probably some genius in the accountant Dept worked out they'd save 50 quid on each digger!

foxy farmer

enricoh wrote: »

4mm is a bit of a joke. How much extra would it cost to make it out of 6 or 8mm? Sod all I'd say.
Saw a fresh case mini digger with the same craic either 3 or 4mm box.
Probably some genius in the accountant Dept worked out they'd save 50 quid on each digger!

It's a New Holland loader bought with the tractor in 08. I was told today that it's possibly a rebadged Tanco or Rossmore. Any truth to this?

Reggie.

foxy farmer wrote: »

It's a New Holland loader bought with the tractor in 08. I was told today that it's possibly a rebadged Tanco or Rossmore. Any truth to this?

Probably a stoll

tomwaterford

foxy farmer wrote: »

It's a New Holland loader bought with the tractor in 08. I was told today that it's possibly a rebadged Tanco or Rossmore. Any truth to this?

Surly it would say rossmore on it??


If see front section/stamp on it...you'd know (but I can't imagine rossmore cutting down that light....but 08 was when price of steel went crazy...see seeing effects of it now?)



Edit: from closer inspection looks like rossmore :eek:

Reggie.

tomwaterford wrote: »

Surly it would say rossmore on it??


If see front section/stamp on it...you'd know (but I can't imagine rossmore cutting down that light....but 08 was when price of steel went crazy...see seeing effects of it now?)

Edit: from closer inspection looks like rossmore :eek:[/quote


That's why ya can't beat the quicke loaders. They aren't box but channel welded together

White Clover

tomwaterford wrote: »

Surly it would say rossmore on it??


If see front section/stamp on it...you'd know (but I can't imagine rossmore cutting down that light....but 08 was when price of steel went crazy...see seeing effects of it now?)






Edit: from closer inspection looks like rossmore :eek:

Definitely Stoll. All New holland loaders of that era were rebadged stoll.
Rossmore loaders are dog heavy.

trg

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

patsy_mccabe

Reggie. wrote: »

...... That's why ya can't beat the quicke loaders. They aren't box but channel welded together

That's why I hate box section with a passion. You can't tell the wall thickness by looking at it. On a farm too they rot away from the inside out in no time.
All those cheap trailers you see on Donedeal, all have box section for beams undernath the body.

foxy farmer

Good call. Stoll it is.

Reggie.

foxy farmer wrote: »

Good call. Stoll it is.

The bottom of the boom is the give away as it's all cast

Muckit

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

I want to get one too. I think it will have to have a ram to ease in silage blocks. I don't think those wheel types will be sttong enough

tractorporn

Muckit wrote: »

I want to get one too. I think it will have to have a ram to ease in silage blocks. I don't think those wheel types will be sttong enough

Lad in Offaly making them to order

https://www.donedeal.ie/dairycattle-for-sale/silage-power-pusher/17613830

Kevhog1988

Saw drinkers made from blue barrells on their side when i was in mayo last week, has anyone ever made one??

Base price

We made up a few last year for calves and we used the small ball cocks so they couldn't reach in and break them, iykwim.

Base price

Base price wrote: »

We made up a few last year for calves and we used the small ball cocks so they couldn't reach in and break them, iykwim.

The other thing is we made two holes rather than cutting out one large hole in the center. This helped the barrel to hold its shape and not collapse. I will take a pic tomorrow.

Zr105

foxy farmer wrote: »

Some people would break iron. Neighbour rang me on Wednesday to see could I do a repair job to the loader. This is what I was greeted with. In fairness the box is only 4mm thick.
Took a chance on repairing it for him after getting a more experienced opinion first.

what the hell was he doing to manage that? we've a stoll/nh loader here amd it regularly has a 7ft bucket on it loading dung and it doesnt flinch. last time i saw something like that it was actually a quicke loader but it had met a wall

cjpm

Project is a Pick up hitch for trailed silage harvester.

Comprises of 2 box sections, one sliding within the other, and the hitch is raised by a single acting ram. A pawl (similar to in a ratchet) is used to support the weight of the trailer while filling. To lower the trailer, raise ram to top again, a string is pulled to release the pawl, lower ram.


What I want to do is to set the pawl up so that it disengages itself when the ram is raised for the second time. I.e. I want to get rid of the requirement to pull the string.

Anyone know how to set up a locking mechanism to do the following

1 Raise hitch using ram
2 Lower the hitch a little so it rests on a pawl
3 Raise the hitch a little so as to disengage the pawl automatically
4 Lower the hitch
5 Raise hitch again with next trailer and reset pawl





Now Gunterers any bright ideas??!!

fastrac94

cjpm wrote: »

Project is a Pick up hitch for trailed silage harvester.

Comprises of 2 box sections, one sliding within the other, and the hitch is raised by a single acting ram. A pawl (similar to in a ratchet) is used to support the weight of the trailer while filling. To lower the trailer, raise ram to top again, a string is pulled to release the pawl, lower ram.


What I want to do is to set the pawl up so that it disengages itself when the ram is raised for the second time. I.e. I want to get rid of the requirement to pull the string.

Anyone know how to set up a locking mechanism to do the following

1 Raise hitch using ram
2 Lower the hitch a little so it rests on a pawl
3 Raise the hitch a little so as to disengage the pawl automatically
4 Lower the hitch
5 Raise hitch again with next trailer and reset pawl





Now Gunterers any bright ideas??!!

Double acting ram and do away with the pawl altogether,far less yo go wrong and let ya down...

Nekarsulm

I think some late model New Holland 339's came with such a hitch.
All the red ones and early yellow ones had a string, but I think the last of the yellow ones worked the way you're thinking.

Actually, now I think of it, look for a hitch from a John Deere 3675 trailed precision chop.
You'll pick up an entire scrapped harvester for a few hundred.
The servo controlled valve chest is worth that alone.

TheFarrier

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

5 wheel drive

trg wrote: »

Hey, does anyone have a pic of a homemade silage pusher that works well on a front grab or the back lift arms? Would appreciate it, thanks in advance

I have made one years ago When I was fairly green at the guntering. Works perfect for us but then everything is out of diet feeder. It’s a tractor wheel that can be picked up with grab. I’ll post a pic tomorrow.

larthehar

TheFarrier wrote: »

I must make a sliding door to allow the loader access to the calving shed from the yard with out going through the slats.

Door will be 9 feet wide and 12 feet high.

Is 80mm box enough for this?? Thinking with a 4 or 5mm wall in it.

Any advice much appreciated

Are you driving on the door aswel?! 80mm box with a 5mm wall is cruel heavy for a sliding door.. 50mm with a 3mm wall would well suffice for the door frame..

TheFarrier

larthehar wrote: »

Are you driving on the door aswel?! 80mm box with a 5mm wall is cruel heavy for a sliding door.. 50mm with a 3mm wall would well suffice for the door frame..

Right. The lads running the show are just determined to make it a lifetime job, capable of withstanding everything they are going to throw at it. I'm only cobbling it together for them.