Labour Saving and General Guntering

SCOL

Yes, something like that.

3 point attachment or just pull it behind the tractor ?

If I just pull it I can load it up with weights as it's only a ferguson 20
or would It be better on the 3 point attachment ?

MickeyShtyles

SCOL wrote: »

Yes, something like that.

3 point attachment or just pull it behind the tractor ?

If I just pull it I can load it up with weights as it's only a ferguson 20
or would It be better on the 3 point attachment ?

If its just loose stone. Could ya just pull an rsj up the road?

pedigree 6

SCOL wrote: »

Yes, something like that.

3 point attachment or just pull it behind the tractor ?

If I just pull it I can load it up with weights as it's only a ferguson 20
or would It be better on the 3 point attachment ?

Here's an idea too.
Made for the ferguson tractor as well. Could make up your own based on it.
Can swivel from one way or another or square on.
http://www.cheffins.co.uk/lot/-534854-machinery-0

SCOL

It hard compacted stone so I need it loosened up first.

greenpetrol

SCOL wrote: »

It hard compacted stone so I need it loosened up first.

Wouldn't go adding spikes and ripping up stone that's bedded in ! An ordinary land level or an rsj will be perfect ! Just to skim the surface and fill in the hollows ! A light skim every week or so at the beginning and after a month you will be sorted ! Rippers on the leveler will weaken your passage and heavy rain will wash away the silt holding it all together

SCOL

Big potholes on the lane a few inches deep, I'll make just a land level first and run it a few times on the lane to see how I get on first maybe extra weight on it for the first few runs ???

greenpetrol

SCOL wrote: »

Big potholes on the lane a few inches deep, I'll make just a land level first and run it a few times on the lane to see how I get on first maybe extra weight on it for the first few runs ???

Reversing may get better results!

Nekarsulm

Guntering at its most basic.
When you borrow a pipe off a lad, but don't check the end untill you're ten miles away......

jimini0

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Guntering at its most basic.
When you borrow a pipe off a lad, but don't check the end untill you're ten miles away......

Is the any job out there that cant be fixed with a bit baler twine

Muckit

Nosey now....What's in the small pit?

Nekarsulm

Muckit wrote: »

Nosey now....What's in the small pit?

Twelve acres of last summers silage, not needed. (Yet!)

Muckit

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Twelve acres of last summers silage, not needed. (Yet!)

Deceiving. 12acres. About the sum total of what I'd stick in a pit!! Not too small at all. Looks smaller
Thought twas treated barley or something extravagant like that!!

Nekarsulm

The pit is sixty foot long and thirty five wide. Theres about seven foot depth at the back wall.
It's just the angle it's caught at.

Do you like the handle of the old Stilson wrench?

Odelay

It's all in the detail! Only copped that now.

emaherx

jimini0 wrote: »

Is the any job out there that cant be fixed with a bit baler twine

I would love to ban the stuff from our farm. Would certainly make agitating and spreading dung easier and maybe all of the gates would be hung properly.

blue5000

emaherx wrote: »

I would love to ban the stuff from our farm. Would certainly make agitating and spreading dung easier and maybe all of the gates would be hung properly.

Lad I know uses hi-tensile wire to tie gates, lovely stuff in slats:mad:

emaherx

blue5000 wrote: »

Lad I know uses hi-tensile wire to tie gates, lovely stuff in slats:mad:

Well I suppose at least twine can be removed with a sharp Stanly knife and only a little swearing.

49801

Old 25g concrete water trough had it and its cable end came off. Couple of tips with a sledge to knock the valve mint and slipped a plastic trough inside the remains after throwing I a fe stones.

Muckit

Ok diesel heads.... Looking for some advice. One of the rubber hoses that goes to the heater in tractor cab has cracked..... again. Happened in 2013 and replaced with new hose. V annoying that it has gone again.

It comes from rad and goes between cab and diesel tank (diesel tank will have to come down) and then goes up the inside of windscreen pillar.
Its at the bend before it goes up cab pillar that it keeps cracking.

Want to do a job now that will last. Could l cut hose and put in a stainless steel or copper pipe bend and jubliee clip them? What would lads recommend?

fastrac94

Muckit wrote: »

Ok diesel heads.... Looking for some advice. One of the rubber hoses that goes to the heater in tractor cab has cracked..... again. Happened in 2013 and replaced with new hose. V annoying that it has gone again.

It comes from rad and goes between cab and diesel tank (diesel tank will have to come down) and then goes up the inside of windscreen pillar.
Its at the bend before it goes up cab pillar that it keeps cracking.

Want to do a job now that will last. Could l cut hose and put in a stainless steel or copper pipe bend and jubliee clip them? What would lads recommend?

Nothing wrong with doing it that way,half the heater pipes in the country have been repaired that way,use the stainless if ya can and it should last.

patsy_mccabe

Muckit wrote: »

Ok diesel heads.... Looking for some advice. One of the rubber hoses that goes to the heater in tractor cab has cracked..... again. Happened in 2013 and replaced with new hose. V annoying that it has gone again.

It comes from rad and goes between cab and diesel tank (diesel tank will have to come down) and then goes up the inside of windscreen pillar.
Its at the bend before it goes up cab pillar that it keeps cracking.

Want to do a job now that will last. Could l cut hose and put in a stainless steel or copper pipe bend and jubliee clip them? What would lads recommend?

Barb elbow fitting with jubilee clips.
https://midlandmetal.com/photos/32412.jpg

Also these types of clips are much better than the cheap Chinese jubilee clips you get in the local hardware store.

blue5000

Yes they are Patsy, until you lose a piece off them, usually at the nut end:o.

pedigree 6

Times are tough. Grass to milk.:pac:

sandydan

that photo of trough reminds me of an issue i had with cattle damaging troughs and ballcocks, i cut a10 inch strip of plastic off a plastic barrel, roughly 2 ft long, folded it and bolted centre of strip onto the inside of piece over ballcock, ends stopped cows from messing with ballcock. a neighbour then suggested putting a screw in insulator onto top of protective piece midway over ballcock and tying a strip of wire from insulator to fence wire, that stopped cattle from walking across trough if pucked by another animal, the plastic troughs were not under wire serving 2 paddocks as i assume that one is.

whelan2

Those plastic troughs are a total pain. Probably ok for sucklers/beef stock, Replacing all of them with big concrete ones here, the big round ones should be flung as far away as possible

pedigree 6

whelan2 wrote: »

Those plastic troughs are a total pain. Probably ok for sucklers/beef stock, Replacing all of them with big concrete ones here, the big round ones should be flung as far away as possible

To yourself and sandydan that tape was only a botch job to stop water from leaking for a short while.
I'm putting in 120 gallon concrete troughs now instead and they're high enough to stop badgers from getting a bath in them.

Nekarsulm

whelan2 wrote: »

Those plastic troughs are a total pain. Probably ok for sucklers/beef stock, Replacing all of them with big concrete ones here, the big round ones should be flung as far away as possible

No matter how level you get the big round ones, they a way seem to fill to the rim at some point, and a windy day sees waves or ripples continously dribbling over the side.

whelan2

Nekarsulm wrote: »

No matter how level you get the big round ones, they a way seem to fill to the rim at some point, and a windy day sees waves or ripples continously dribbling over the side.

Then yesterday noticed the fecking ballcock was stuck down in one were cows were over a week ago, water everywhere

Muckit

Do you have to drain the concrete ones in the wintertime?

delaney001

Muckit wrote: »

Do you have to drain the concrete ones in the wintertime?

In regards to prevent cracking with frost?
A neighbour had a right trick for that. Throw a tennis ball into each. When the water freezes and expands, it'll compress the tennis ball before cracking the walls.
And actually the walls are slanted outwards (like silage wall) now so if the top freezes over, it'll push upwards rather than bust out the walls.