Labour Saving and General Guntering

Czhornet

Getting sick of spraying weeds in the yard and on the lawn at home with a knapsack so came up with this baby!

25 litre drum
12 volt pump worked off the lawn mower battery
3 nozzle spray bar
5 metre lance for spot spraying/close to walls etc

great job and saves the back!!

Nekarsulm

Excellent work! Now to get it certified.

Reggie.

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Excellent work! Now to get it certified.

I didn't realise you knew that word

Nekarsulm

Reggie. wrote: »

I didn't realise you knew that word

Know it?
I've been it ......

patsy_mccabe

Guys making DIY hydraulic Log Splitter at the moment. Have nearly everything (from scrap) except the splitting head. Would it be OK to use a standard axe head? I vaguely remember reading something before about the metal being to brittle or something?

Say my name

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Guys making DIY hydraulic Log Splitter at the moment. Have nearly everything (from scrap) except the splitting head. Would it be OK to use a standard axe head? I vaguely remember reading something before about the metal being to brittle or something?

There's differences in axe heads.
There's a cutting axe and then a maul axe.
The maul head would be the most similar to a wedge on a logsplitter.
Not sure if it would take a weld?

I don't think it's best to weld a head directly to the ram though but leave a hoop and pin to connect to the ram shaft iykwim. A little play saves the ram and H iron on the splitter from bending.

Czhornet

Say my name wrote: »

There's differences in axe heads.
There's a cutting axe and then a maul axe.
The maul head would be the most similar to a wedge on a logsplitter.
Not sure if it would take a weld?

I don't think it's best to weld a head directly to the ram though but leave a hoop and pin to connect to the ram shaft iykwim. A little play saves the ram and H iron on the splitter from bending.

I got my blade made up from a piece of Hardox steel, it cuts down through knotty timber if it dosen't split it. great job.

+1 on the pin joint on top of the blade, allows greater flexibility than a rigid welded joint

patsy_mccabe

Say my name wrote: »

There's differences in axe heads.
There's a cutting axe and then a maul axe.
The maul head would be the most similar to a wedge on a logsplitter.
Not sure if it would take a weld?

I don't think it's best to weld a head directly to the ram though but leave a hoop and pin to connect to the ram shaft iykwim. A little play saves the ram and H iron on the splitter from bending.

Ya, I was planning on welding other tapered pieces to the sides of the axe to add width to push the split timber apart.

The axe will be welded driectly to a nice price of 1" thick steel that will slide up and down the face of the RSJ. I will add a pivot joint to this piece so wont be welding to the rod end. These pivot joints onlgt take care to misaligment in the one direction. Side to side misalignment isn't covered.

Czhornet wrote: »

I got my blade made up from a piece of Hardox steel, it cuts down through knotty timber if it dosen't split it. great job.

+1 on the pin joint on top of the blade, allows greater flexibility than a rigid welded joint

Might buy the wedge 'of the shelf'. Saw them on donedeal before. Cheers.

Czhornet

Pic of my home made splitter and the pin joint on top of the blade. The brackets are tapered outwards at the top to help with widening of the split timber .

stock>

The shape of the axe head is very important, I used one once that was commercially made and the timber block split violently as the angle was too steep and compressed the timber before it finally fractured causing the blocks to fly.


It was bucket teeth I used, and they work exceptionally well...........

patsy_mccabe

stock> wrote: »

The shape of the axe head is very important, I used one once that was commercially made and the timber block split violently as the angle was too steep and compressed the timber before it finally fractured causing the blocks to fly.


It was bucket teeth I used, and they work exceptionally well...........

I like the side overhang brackets you added to prise off jammed logs.

Burning Tires

Czhornet wrote: »

Getting sick of spraying weeds in the yard and on the lawn at home with a knapsack so came up with this baby!

25 litre drum
12 volt pump worked off the lawn mower battery
3 nozzle spray bar
5 metre lance for spot spraying/close to walls etc

great job and saves the back!!

Great idea. What do you use to spray the weeds on the lawn?

patsy_mccabe

Anyone know where I might get one of these log splitter splitting plates. I remember a guy selling Hardox ones on Donedeal before but nothing now. Seems crazy to bring one in from the states.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_363212_363212

Grazon

Get a piece of a cutting edge of a digger bucket shud be handy got.

shootermcgee

patsy_mccabe wrote:

Anyone know where I might get one of these log splitter splitting plates. I remember a guy selling Hardox ones on Donedeal before but nothing now. Seems crazy to bring one in from the states.

Ask a local machine manufacturer if the have a any offcuts of cutting edge and get them to machine a 45 degree angle on both sides, it's what I used and it only cost me €20 and gets a lot of heavy use

contrary_devil

shootermcgee wrote: »

Ask a local machine manufacturer if the have a any offcuts of cutting edge and get them to machine a 45 degree angle on both sides, it's what I used and it only cost me €20 and gets a lot of heavy use

On some loader buckets there is a short piece of cutting edge at either side, I got one of those and sharpened it with the angle grinder. Zero cost other than my time and a grinding disc/electricity.

kk.man

I always wanted to get a cover for my manure/spinner spreader but never got round to it. I know of at least one place that does all sorts of covers made to measure.it would be handy if u have a full load of fertilizer and the clouds burst, which often happen in spring.
Today I got a brain wave I cut the outer plastic from the big bags of fertilizer (the one that holds the 4 together). I cut this outer bag down low and put it over my spreader and it fitted perfectly.
Small thing but practical.

stock>

kk.man wrote: »

I always wanted to get a cover for my manure/spinner spreader but never got round to it. I know of at least one place that does all sorts of covers made to measure.it would be handy if u have a full load of fertilizer and the clouds burst, which often happen in spring.
Today I got a brain wave I cut the outer plastic from the big bags of fertilizer (the one that holds the 4 together). I cut this outer bag down low and put it over my spreader and it fitted perfectly.
Small thing but practical.

Didn't happen cause there is no pictures........................

Say my name

kk.man wrote: »

I always wanted to get a cover for my manure/spinner spreader but never got round to it. I know of at least one place that does all sorts of covers made to measure.it would be handy if u have a full load of fertilizer and the clouds burst, which often happen in spring.
Today I got a brain wave I cut the outer plastic from the big bags of fertilizer (the one that holds the 4 together). I cut this outer bag down low and put it over my spreader and it fitted perfectly.
Small thing but practical.

Not sure if it's the place you're thinking of but I got mine at.
http://www.carlowcovers.ie/

Just measured the spreader and they made up a cover to suit.
Wasn't that dear from what I remember.
Essential if you have a bit of urea left in the spreader to keep dry.

Czhornet

Burning Tires wrote: »

Great idea. What do you use to spray the weeds on the lawn?

I use Dicophar to kill the weeds, kills everything except the grass.

https://www.horkans.ie/p/dicophar-selective-weedkiller-for-lawns/p187065644

Aravo

What have people done to make moving calf dehorning crates easier. Any photos. I'll be going with the most simple solution.

patsy_mccabe

Aravo wrote: »

What have people done to make moving calf dehorning crates easier. Any photos. I'll be going with the most simple solution.

I use the bale spike at the back. On top of the crate feed the chain around the spike. So simple, you'll laugh. I was going putting wheels and all on mine, till I copped it. Bale spike is always nearly on anyway, so easily done.

patsy_mccabe

Got frame up at last. No more lifting 50kg bags.

foxy farmer

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Got frame up at last. No more lifting 50kg bags.

You'll still get a work out pulling the chain. Missed the recent offer on the pulley block. I have a 1 tonne here but it has a 20ft chain. A 10 ft would be handier for most jobs.

gctest50

leccy hoist for mighty frame and you'd be able to lift bags straight off a trailer ?



https://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=299&product_id=4450

SuperTortoise

gctest50 wrote: »

leccy hoist for mighty frame and you'd be able to lift bags straight off a trailer ?



https://www.wholesaleweldingsupplies.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=299&product_id=4450

Would go for the next one up at least, I know it says 500kg but I doubt it'll lift that much.

gctest50

SuperTortoise wrote: »

Would go for the next one up at least, I know it says 500kg but I doubt it'll lift that much.

- i forgot about the "advertising tax"

Take "advertised capacity " and divide it by 3

visatorro

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Got frame up at last. No more lifting 50kg bags.

I started putting in big bags with spreader on the ground. Put in a tonne and hook on tractor. Only have one tractor. Find it works well for me.

Muckit

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Got frame up at last. No more lifting 50kg bags.

Looks very well! Great welds btw. I understand the pulley etc, but what is procedure now? Like how do you get the big bag under the hoist?

Like you get a pallet of 4 bags dropped in the yard....

patsy_mccabe

Muckit wrote: »

Looks very well! Great welds btw. I understand the pulley etc, but what is procedure now? Like how do you get the big bag under the hoist?

Like you get a pallet of 4 bags dropped in the yard....

I suppose I want to keep things as flexible as possible. I have a loader on the tractor so can move bags around that way. If I want to put out say 1 and 1/2 bags, I can use the bag valve (not bought yet) and drop the 1/2 bag down again on the ground. For safety as much as anything.

Say my name

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I suppose I want to keep things as flexible as possible. I have a loader on the tractor so can move bags around that way. If I want to put out say 1 and 1/2 bags, I can use the bag valve (not bought yet) and drop the 1/2 bag down again on the ground. For safety as much as anything.

What I do is put the whole bag (500 kgs) in the spreader even if I'm just using 100 kgs and then put a specially made pvc cover over the spreader.
It'll stay dry then in the spreader.
I have a fibreglass hopper though. But even the metal bottom at the agitator is staying fine as long as no moisture gets near it to dissolve the fert and cause any rusting.

kk.man

Say my name wrote: »

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I suppose I want to keep things as flexible as possible. I have a loader on the tractor so can move bags around that way. If I want to put out say 1 and 1/2 bags, I can use the bag valve (not bought yet) and drop the 1/2 bag down again on the ground. For safety as much as anything.

What I do is put the whole bag (500 kgs) in the spreader even if I'm just using 100 kgs and then put a specially made pvc cover over the spreader.
It'll stay dry then in the spreader.
I have a fibreglass hopper though. Even the metal bottom at the agitator is staying fine as long as no moisture gets near it to dissolve the fert and cause any rusting.

Very simple...make a hole in the big bag near the top of it..No need to have fertilizer lying in the spreader.

Say my name

kk.man wrote: »

Very simple...make a hole in the big bag near the top of it..No need to have fertilizer lying in the spreader.

I used to do that. (Before i had the cover).
Very hard to judge the proper amount going into the spreader and then you could end up wasting some on the ground. Plus most fert bags are only meant to be lifted the once. And then there's still the chance the fert can go damp in the bag when there's a hole in it. Even if you stuff the hole with plastic.

I'll stay at what I'm doing and then there's fert in the spreader ready to go for the next time. I've no issues with it anyway. I'm doing it for the last 5 years.

charolais0153

Get a 2 tonne pallet of fertiliser dropped in yard. The first tonne is very easy just slide over to edge of hopper and cut. Lift the the other tonne up andleave it on a stack of pallets and repeat

kevthegaff

nitpick man wrote:

fast forward to today.. Dad and girl come around. She run over. He well behind her, on his phone , walks along path , walks around us and onto the green. NOT ONCE did he look up and acknowledge myself or the wife. For about 5 minutes he stood there looking down at his phone , glanced over at the two of them playing ever so often.. it was like a dead silent blew over. I was just puzzled , he knew they were playing together and it felt like we were being used.

Is there any contraption for tying two gates together quickly ifykwim . It's for a calving pen

gctest50

A scaffolding hook ?

Nekarsulm

You need a piece of plate welded to 1 gate, with a V shape cut out of it. Then a lenght of stout chain welded/bolted to the other gate. One handed operation to open or close. There is a pic on this thread somewhere.

charolais0153

kevthegaff wrote: »

Is there any contraption for tying two gates together quickly ifykwim . It's for a calving pen

Twine

Farmer

Chain and a snap hook.

kevthegaff

Nekarsulm wrote:

You need a piece of plate welded to 1 gate, with a V shape cut out of it. Then a lenght of stout chain welded/bolted to the other gate. One handed operation to open or close. There is a pic on this thread somewhere.

Theses are r old gates you wouldn't weld, use it on new gates great job!

K.G.

kevthegaff wrote: »

Nekarsulm wrote:

You need a piece of plate welded to 1 gate, with a V shape cut out of it. Then a lenght of stout chain welded/bolted to the other gate. One handed operation to open or close. There is a pic on this thread somewhere.

Theses are r old gates you wouldn't weld, use it on new gates great job!

Get 15 "of 1/2"galv flat .cut a slot to take chain in one end .then make up two u bolts out of threaded bar and drill flat bar two suit two bars of.the gate.just keep it tucked in against end bar of gate .works grand for me

Nekarsulm

One of mine, rough and ready, but holding up for 15 or so years now.


Just saw your post there, Kev.

patsy_mccabe

Nekarsulm wrote: »

One of mine, rough and ready, but holding up for 15 or so years now.
Just saw your post there, Kev.

Nice. Old muckspreader chain. End weight holds it down too. Would you trust that though, if you werent around?

Nekarsulm

It's on the holding yard, so they don't get to "play" with it 24/7.
But having said that, it's never been opened by a cow yet.

A smart old doll with horns could do it easy enough, I suppose.

Muckit

Farmer wrote: »

Chain and a snap hook.

Some of them snap hooks are useless, stock can easily sprain them, especially a big lump of a suckler cow!

Muckit

Nekarsulm wrote: »

One of mine, rough and ready, but holding up for 15 or so years now.

I've fitted this on the first loading gate of tractor cattle trailer. Length of 3' chain secured on inside RHS upright of trailer body and draped over RH gate. Notch on LH gate. Close up the LH gate after cattle and secure it with chain, changing position as last animal moves up. Must post a pic next time I'm loading. Saved my bacon a number of times, a God send when on your own. You can then safely tip up the cattle half way up to let up the one on the ramp. I'm surprised it's not fitted as standard on modern cattle trailers.

patsy_mccabe

Nice idea here.

satstheway

satstheway wrote: »

When your posting hit the attach file at the bottom and select camera. U might have to set the megapixels in the camera back in settings or it can be too big.

Here goes

satstheway

And the rest.
Thanks for sending them.

lab man

satstheway wrote:

And the rest. Thanks for sending them.

Tks for putting them up sat