Oil Sump plug stuck

bigdirtywheels

Hi
have an old vitara and I can't get the oil sump plug off i am afraid of cracking the sump as I have been swinging out of and hitting the spanner so hard.
Can I drain through the oil filter?
What happens if i make a hole in the oil filter or remove the oil filter entirely. it would make a bit of a mess but will it drain the sump?

Any ideas... don't want to go to the trouble of buying a pump to suck the oil out via the dip stick.

dohc

Anti seize grease?

bigdirtywheels

I used penetrating oil to try and loosen it and it didn't work (didn't use WD40 as it is only a water displacement oil). Not sure what use grease would be as it would be too viscous a liquid to penetrate the threads.

But the question is can I drain via the oil filter?

Hal1

I had the same problem when I done my oil change. what I did was spray some wd40 leave alone for about 30 minutes. I then got a hammer and spanner and gently presuaded her to come loose with some light tapping, and of course the sump plug fell in the oil.

But the question is can I drain via the oil filter?

Answer = no lol.

blastman

No, you can't drain the sump through the oil filter, it's usually too high up (that's why the plug is at the bottom )

There are devices that suck the oil out through the filler, if the worst comes to the worst. You can get sump plugs that have a valve in them to drain without having to take the plug off, too (not much help to you just now, I know).

Cmar-Ireland

You could drop the sump. Only cost you the price of a new gasket.

Kimbot

I normally run the car for a while and let the engine heat up. Then get under and loosen it a touch. Let car cool then work away at it.

jmck87

How hard are you pulling at the spanner? Not doubting your strength but if your under the car it can be hard to get in much torque (although whoever tightened it shouldnt have done so much).

For bolts that need extra bit of torque I use an aluminium pipe from a hoover...slide it over the spanner for extra leverage.

JHMEG

jmck87 wrote: »

For bolts that need extra bit of torque I use an aluminium pipe from a hoover...slide it over the spanner for extra leverage.

This is the idea. A longer wrench will open it for you. Try use a hex socket as you're less likely to round the corners off the bolt.

There are pumps that you can get to suck the oil out the filler, but they're expensive at around €80 iirc.

Pkiernan

Removing the filter alone will not get nearly enough oil out for a decent oil change.

Try the penetrating lube and leaving it sit for 30 minutes.

Remving the oil pan itself as suggested is a good idea, assuming u can get it off completely. I had an American truck that would let you get all the bolts out but 1 without dropping the exhaust!! You can get the oil out, but getting a new gasket on would have been impossible.

You can also try heating the area around the plug with a heat gun or torch - but be careful.

bigdirtywheels

I will jack up the drivers side of the car and try to drain through the oil filter hopefully I will get most of the oil out.

Are the manual suction pumps any good?
Can you get small ones that connect to an electric drill?

Delta Kilo

I think it is the pipe that goes down the dip-stick tube that is the problem moreso than the pump. You need a real narrow pipe to go down the tube.

Nforce

blastman wrote: »

You can get sump plugs that have a valve in them to drain without having to take the plug off, too (not much help to you just now, I know).

Never heard of these before:o........are they available for all vehicles?

mickdw

If the plug is not rounded (Damaged), it will come out. Get proper tools and long levers and it will move. I also wouldnt agree that WD40 is only a water displacement oil. Yes I know The WD stands for water displacement but WD40 will find its way into siezed nuts and will help. Trying to drain it through the filter is a waste of time really.

Run_to_da_hills

Nforce wrote: »

Never heard of these before:o........are they available for all vehicles?

Wouldn't touch them, They are a great idea until the ball valve gives way and all your lube oil ends up in a long streek out the drive way

Mayshine

Get a hex socket on it and the longest wrench you can get.

Instead of pulling the wrench and increasing the torque to remove the bolt, which can cause rounding, try to hit it with the maximum force instantaneously.

The longer the wrench the more force you will get on the bolt. If you can hit it with you foot or get a good breaker bar it will definitely come off. Sump nuts are usual only 40-50 Nm which is not much.

beachlife

Run_to_da_hills wrote: »

Wouldn't touch them, They are a great idea until the ball valve gives way and all your lube oil ends up in a long streek out the drive way

i have one and there great!!! The trick with them is to have the engine warmed up (so the oil is thinner) then insert the tubes and only pump a couple of times(otherwise you overload the suction side) it takes about ten minutes to drain all the oil out completely.i even removed the drain plug to see if there was any oil left ,not a drop!!!!. Great tool,saves time,saves money,keeps the customer happy!!!

Voodoomelon

This reminds me of the time I had the opposite problem, I tightened the sump plug too much and snapped the head off leaving the threads inside with oil seaping out. Nearly crapped myself.

CJhaughey

beachlife wrote: »

i have one and there great!!! The trick with them is to have the engine warmed up (so the oil is thinner) then insert the tubes and only pump a couple of times(otherwise you overload the suction side) it takes about ten minutes to drain all the oil out completely.i even removed the drain plug to see if there was any oil left ,not a drop!!!!. Great tool,saves time,saves money,keeps the customer happy!!!

You are talking about a different animals.
The sump plug with an integral ball valve and an oil suction canister.
I have used the suction device and they are great, a valve on a sump plug is asking for a seized engine IMO.

OP, you won't get the oil out of the filter area, these are usually fed from a gallery and the oil sits in a sump.
You need to either suck the oil from the dipstick hole with an oil vacuum, OR undo the nut by brute force, heat, etc.
Have you tried an impact wrench? They are very useful for starting reluctant bolts etc, but if you have an alloy sump I wouldn't recommend one.
I would head down to your main dealer and pick up a new plug and washer before you start the removal job.

Run_to_da_hills

Other alternative is to remove the sump altogether and heat around the seized nut area carefully with a blow torch, this might free the threads.

Worse scenario would be that the mechanic that previously changed the oil over tightened the bolt and stretched the threads. in that case you would have to take it to a machine shop and tap it out to the next size and get a bolt to match it or else a replacement sump from a main dealer or scrap yard. As someone else mentioned you will need a new sump gasket

It is too serious to take a chance with DIY patch up repairs on a damaged sump thread.