Boxer bitch information..

tv3

I was looking to buy a female boxer 7 weeks old.I had a couple of dogs over the years but never the boxer.Ive being told they are graet with kids etc so that was one thing was i liked.I did notice the father has a eye condition "cataracs" and im wondering would the pup be affected by this??
Also the mother is perfect:)

Call me Socket

It could be some time before you know....some cataracts and eye conditions are hereditary and some aren't; the boxer is prone to eye (and ear) diseases. Tbh, the father shouldn't have been allowed to sire a litter with the eye probs he has, he should be neutered.
For what it's worth, if I were in your shoes I wouldn't be buying from that breeder at all.

tv3

Just to let you no that i didnt go with that pup,but got a different female instead:)also 7 weeks old
Any tips on the best way to train her as im planning on keeping her mostly in the house??

tv3

anyone?

Green Hornet

The folks have a boxer bitch and she's absolutely fantastic! Great personality and temperament. Congratulations!

She has always been kept outside though as she is extremely energetic and boisteous and requires plently of room to run off the energy.

We got a trainer in to put some sort of training on her as she was very strong willed and basically "the boss". The trainer worked wonders in a few hours.

Sorry that I can't give you any help but just dropped a note to tell you that she's a great acquisition to the family!:)

tv3

Green Hornet wrote: »

The folks have a boxer bitch and she's absolutely fantastic! Great personality and temperament. Congratulations!

She has always been kept outside though as she is extremely energetic and boisteous and requires plently of room to run off the energy.

We got a trainer in to put some sort of training on her as she was very strong willed and basically "the boss". The trainer worked wonders in a few hours.

Sorry that I can't give you any help but just dropped a note to tell you that she's a great acquisition to the family!:)

Do you reckon its to early to train her??

luckat

It's never too early to train a dog. Take a look at http://www.clickertraining.com for the best method - most fun and most effective for bonding and training of both owner and pet. Also handy for learning to train spouses, workmates, bosses, etc.

Sigma Force

7 weeks is just a little young to be buying a pup from a breeder...

tv3

Guineapigrescue wrote: »

7 weeks is just a little young to be buying a pup from a breeder...

Why is that??

tv3

Guineapigrescue wrote: »

7 weeks is just a little young to be buying a pup from a breeder...

Stop trolling if you cannot put helpful information here.Keep making childish comments and il report you !;)

star-pants

tv3 wrote: »

Stop trolling if you cannot put helpful information here.Keep making childish comments and il report you !;)

a) no backseat modding, if you've an issue - report a post

b) he/she is right -- most pups don't leave their mother until at least 8 weeks old. This is why people in this forum can get quite annoyed when someone gets a pup much younger, because it means that the breeder/owner isn't doing right by it's dogs/pups and also that the pup may not have all the best things it needs from it's mother before it leaves her

tv3

star-pants wrote: »

a) no backseat modding, if you've an issue - report a post

b) he/she is right -- most pups don't leave their mother until at least 8 weeks old. This is why people in this forum can get quite annoyed when someone gets a pup much younger, because it means that the breeder/owner isn't doing right by it's dogs/pups and also that the pup may not have all the best things it needs from it's mother before it leaves her

Well tbh the breeder told me that they can leave any time from 6 weeks.And this is a well known breeder that told me.
That is why im here to make the best for her mate thats all..

star-pants

tv3 wrote: »

Well tbh the breeder told me that they can leave any time from 6 weeks.And this is a well known breeder that told me.
That is why im here to make the best for her mate thats all..

I'm aware that some pups go at 6 weeks, as I said 'most' pups don't leave until at least 8 weeks, you'll find that a lot of breeders prefer to wait until then. As the puppy is better protected/better socialised/etc.
A lot will put up the pups for sale at a young age, but will say 'they won't be ready for another Xweeks'.
I was merely explaining to you why guineapig and others will have the view that pups shouldn't really be given away before 8weeks.

And it's good that you want to do the best you can for your pup, and as others suggested you can start training at a young age, get them into routines etc.

tv3

Do you advise on going to these training classes?

star-pants

I'm not a trainer and I've not brought mine to training so I don't know what age they start at. But if you want to get them trained - then you could ring them up and ask them for their advice. I have a friend who's a dog trainer and she really thinks its a good idea to get them trained (especially if you don't have the time to do it yourself).

comongethappy

Hi OP,

Just ensure that your pup gets all it's vaccinations before going to training classes if you are training with a group of dogs (as opposed to a one on one training course). Better to be safe than sorry, wouldn't want your pup to pick up anything off one of the other dogs.

Sigma Force

I'll elaborate then, report away if you want tv3, just thought 8 weeks was what was thought to be the norm, is the pup even fully weaned?
Parvo. etc. are deadly to tiny pups it's just too young really to be taken from the mother.
There is a lot of debate wether to take a pup even at 8 weeks or wait a bit longer, some say waiting longer means it's harder for the pup to bond with their owner (I've usually gotten pups at 4 months old so I don't believe that) and some say pups should be left longer so they can learn from their siblings and mother.

Either way which ever age 8 weeks is usually the minimum.

Puppy training classes will in general not accept a pup unless they have been fully vaccinated so until the pup is simple basic things can be done at home.
Although he's still small the sit command is easy to teach just bring a tidbit of food over his head and say 'sit' the dog will automatically sit and then you give him the treat.

Basic rule of thumb is reward the good and ignore the unwanted behaviour.
When you enroll in puppy classes there are some trainers that don't use the gentless of methods so search out a class that uses humane methods of training.

tv3

Thanks folks.
Was in the pet shop today and they told me not to use pedigree dog food but red mills instead...anyone agree??

star-pants

I've not used RedMills but I've heard it recommended.
Basically for dogs, it's better to feed them dry food (for pups it gets soaked in water first so they can chew it and it doesn't expand later in their tummy).
Pedigree chum won't kill your dog or anything, but personally from what I've heard, it's really not the best for dogs at all.
You need to read the ingredients, carbohydrates shouldn't be more than the fat or the protein. Good foods have at least 35% + protein.
You can when mix in a little tuna or some codliver oil/evening primrose oil for their coats later on but dry food is better for them. Even for them going to the toilet, it's more solid and better if they're on dry food. (*always* make sure they have access to lots of fresh water throughout the day)

Also some dogs are allergic to certain foods/ingredients.
My bitch is fine on Royal Canine but my female pup gets bad itchy skin from it, so we have her on James Wellbeloved at the moment. Not sure what we'll put her on when she moves to adult food, we're thinking Orijen.

Oh, do you know what food the pup was on before you took them?

mint man

it would be a good idea to buy a book on boxers,give you all general info tips for training and explain breed specific problems.
they are a very hyper dog ,and will end up taking you for a walk if not trained proper.
but have a great temperament and are loads of fun.
ive 2 males .very affectionate and intelligent.

SunnyP

I have three boxers and in my opinion they are the most fantastic dogs in the world, their temperment is fantastic but do be aware even though their age may suggest they are adults boxers have a puppy behaviour that stays with them long into their grown up years.

I know some breeders that feed on Red Mills and find it great so take some time and find the food thats right for your puppy. One of my pups was reared by her original breeder on red mills and she was thriving when we got her

Did the breeder not give you a puppy pack when you bought her with a sample of her food?

I have to say I also agree with the comments regarding the age of the pup, there is no way any of my puppies would leave before they are 9-10 weeks old at least that way I know they are strong and healthy and able to fend for themselves without their mum

Boxers need loads of time and effort but if you give that to them they can be very easy to train, all mine were house trained almost straight away with very little fuss.
In saying that though some can be stubborn I have one bitch who refuses point blank to sit but thats just her way I wouldnt change it as it makes her cheeky and she does everything else she is old

Good luck with the puppy. she will be a fantastic friend for you

cloudy day

tv3 wrote: »

Well tbh the breeder told me that they can leave any time from 6 weeks.And this is a well known breeder that told me.
That is why im here to make the best for her mate thats all..

Hi. first, pup should not leave it's mum before 8 wks, but you prob wouldn't know that so it's not your fault.

This well known "breeder" would know it and good breeders are not in a hurry to get their pups out the door and the cash in hand.

Considering this, I'm doubting this well known breeder in so much as the following.

Pup should be vaccinated before it stops nursing off bitch. It invalidates the vaccination.

The breeder should of given you the following.
K.C reg cert.
Vaccination card.
Worming Record.
Food pack to start your pup off on as you should not change over types quickly, they get upset tums.

I would addvise you take pup to vet and discuss vaccination and worming as considering the breeder was willing to let the pup go early, they may not of done the other things properly.

Your pups temperament is going to depend on it's parentage.

You must not spoil a boxer pup as if they are from bad lines, some of them are headcases, they are hard to get in hand later in life.

tv3

star-pants wrote: »

I've not used RedMills but I've heard it recommended.
Basically for dogs, it's better to feed them dry food (for pups it gets soaked in water first so they can chew it and it doesn't expand later in their tummy).
Pedigree chum won't kill your dog or anything, but personally from what I've heard, it's really not the best for dogs at all.
You need to read the ingredients, carbohydrates shouldn't be more than the fat or the protein. Good foods have at least 35% + protein.
You can when mix in a little tuna or some codliver oil/evening primrose oil for their coats later on but dry food is better for them. Even for them going to the toilet, it's more solid and better if they're on dry food. (*always* make sure they have access to lots of fresh water throughout the day)

Also some dogs are allergic to certain foods/ingredients.
My bitch is fine on Royal Canine but my female pup gets bad itchy skin from it, so we have her on James Wellbeloved at the moment. Not sure what we'll put her on when she moves to adult food, we're thinking Orijen.

Oh, do you know what food the pup was on before you took them?

Yea the breeder had her on pedigree also.I do soak it as the breeder told me that but i rather speak with people for advice rather than buy a 20euro book that just gives one persons views etc.

igglou

Hey tv3,

Congrats on your new addition, my sis has a boxer and he is adorable. How is he getting on with your Malamute/Husky pup?

Munster Gal

Think strongly about pet insurance for her. My inlaws have the most adorable boxer who has hypothyroidism and a heart condition but she's insured so it's covered. She's called Laila, what did you call your girl?

Green Hornet

Munster Gal wrote: »

Think strongly about pet insurance for her. My inlaws have the most adorable boxer who has hypothyroidism and a heart condition but she's insured so it's covered. She's called Laila, what did you call your girl?

Heh, heh, our boxer bitch is also called Laila :P.

Wonderful dogs. As I mentioned in another post ours got stung under the tongue by a bee and had a very, very bad reaction. On the mend again though now.

Bluefrog

My 2 cents as a boxer & boxador owner.

First on the age for seperation for the litter. My boxer pup is a rescue and I didn't get him until he was 12 weeks old, he was with the litter and his mother until then. I think the fact that he was with them so long was really good for his socialisation - he's great with other dogs in that he is pretty much happy to either play with them if they're up for it or to do his own thing if they're not. My boxador who is a rescue also is very different that way. I didn't get her until she was over 2 and she's still a work in progress from the socialisation point of view. Not that she's aggressive or anything but she doesn't seem to read other dogs intentions as well as the pup so even when other dogs aren't up for playing she will persist in trying to engage them which can lead to the other dogs getting annoyed with her. I can't help thinking that the pup is better in this respect because he had longer with his other litter mates (you can imagine 4 boxer boys and mum would be good at establishing limits).

On the training side of things, my dogs are both house dogs, the boxador was obviously house trained when I got her and just needed a quick refresher course having been in kennels for a few months. The pup got the main idea within a couple of weeks - just a few little slips after that. There is a thread here with some good advice on house training.

As for other training and discipline, as other posters have mentioned, boxers can be pretty willful, consistency is the key. If you haven't dealt with a pup before then formal training classes are definitely a good investment but only after your pup has completed his vaccination regime. The classes will also reinforce good socialisation and getting leash training in as early as possible is a must if you'd like to keep your arms in your shoulder sockets

As others have said, Boxers are work with almost endless energy and a strong will but will reward it one-thousand-fold in loyalty and fun.