Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

1930s House Question

  • 10-07-2009 4:22pm
    #1
    whatisayis
    Registered Users Posts: 377 ✭✭


    Some questions regarding the BER Cert for a 1930s house:
    We have a mass concrete three bed house which has been drylined (using Thermawrap foil which is apparently equivalent to 65mm of polystyrene) on all exterior walls. All windows (bar two) are pvc double glazed and all doors also pvc double glazed. The hall and dining room are quarry tiled (original) and the living room and kitchen have wood floors which have been laminated on top (with insulation). We have also installed a combi, condensing gas fired boiler and all rads have TRVs. My questions:

    The attic floor is insulated with fibreglass but there is nothing under the roof tiles (i.e. no felt). The attic is very cold when you go up there but is bone dry. Should we put something on under the tiles or just leave it?

    The two windows we have to replace are upstairs south facing - one bedroom and one bathroom. There is no vent/extractor in the bathroom so we were thinking of getting one fitted into the new window - is this a good or bad idea? There is an extractor fan in the kitchen, one manual vent in the downstairs toilet and one underfloor in the living room.

    There are three fireplaces - one in an upstairs bedroom, one in the living room and one in the dining room. The one in the dining room was originally where an aga range was installed so we are planning to put a wood burner there. Don't want to close off the other fireplaces totally (in case of gas prices rises/non supply etc.) but how can we close them off to increase energy efficiency without closing them permanently?

    Thanks in advance for any help.


Comments

  • #2
    dunie001
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 179 ✭✭dunie001


    It could be difficult to get an extractor fan into the bathroom wall depending on the thickness of it...but that is definitely the best way to go. You could always route the duct through the attic and put a vent on the fascia (if possible)...but electric extractor fans do bugger all and make a hell of a racket!!!

    You might be better off with a permanent vent in the wall...but don't do that in the bedroom because there would be an almighty draught and you'd never get to sleep!!

    Current Reg's require 300mm of fibreglass insulation in between joists (resistance 0.04) to meet regulations so check how much insulation there is as it is very likely that a lot more is needed!! Xtratherm have ingenious ways of meeting the Reg's and still making the attic useable i.e. insulated floorboards etc.


Advertisement