Mira shower water stoping after couple of minutes

D1marmo

Hi Folks:I have a Mira Elite 2 eletric shower, on Monday night the shower stoped pumping water after it was running for approx 2 mins. I checked the filter and it was fine also their is no low flow light showing,when the water stops the pump keeps running.I was told it is maby the solinoide if so how do I get a new one or any other ideas.:)

Payton

Have a look here http://www.showerdoc.co.uk/ there is also a Technical Forum which might be of some use to you.

2011

I have seen this problem before when there were issues with water pressure. How much head is provided to the shower? I think the minimum required is in the region of 6'. It also requires its own dedicated 1/2" pipe from the attic tank.

D1marmo

Thanks for the reply 2011,but I have the shower 2 and 1/2 years now and always worked fine no change to pressure that I know of.I just dont want to buy a new one till I root cause the problem with this one.:)

Stratocaster

D1marmo wrote: »

Hi Folks:I have a Mira Elite 2 eletric shower, on Monday night the shower stoped pumping water after it was running for approx 2 mins. I checked the filter and it was fine also their is no low flow light showing,when the water stops the pump keeps running.I was told it is maby the solinoide if so how do I get a new one or any other ideas.:)

Has your water been affected recently which may have emptied the tank in the attic? When you say you checked the filter have you opened the casing to locate the filter?

Firstly these showers have extremely high voltages and should only be serviced by experienced people.

Sounds like you might have an air pocket somewhere within the cold supply even in the area where the element is located. You might have noticed some water in the supply but sometimes it takes a while to draw out any trapped air.

Sometimes you turn the shower setting to complete cold and turn on the shower, this may draw out the air pocket. It creates a larger draw of water due to the suction properties created by the pump. By setting the shower to cold you run the pump at its maximum.

D1marmo

Hi Stratocaster, thanks for the input,the filter I checked is the one inside the casing (power isolated) and when I removed the filter to clean water flow seemed fine but I am thinking along the same lines as yourself that this is ultimatly a water flow problem as the shower ran for 3 mins approx. yesterday before losing water supply, though the cold suipply to the W.H.B. and bath seem fine.

Bull76

D1marmo wrote: »

Hi Stratocaster, thanks for the input,the filter I checked is the one inside the casing (power isolated) and when I removed the filter to clean water flow seemed fine but I am thinking along the same lines as yourself that this is ultimatly a water flow problem as the shower ran for 3 mins approx. yesterday before losing water supply, though the cold suipply to the W.H.B. and bath seem fine.

The feed to the WHB and Bath shouldn't be the same for the shower. Have you done as one of the posters added, turn the water temp gauge to cold, and run the shower?
Also, what temp range do you have the shower at?
You could try disconnecting the solenoid if you think it is an issue, By disconnect I mean remove, as it needs power to activate.

D1marmo

Cheers Bull76
I was just mentioning the W.H.B. and Bath C.W.S. as they are supplied from the same tank as the shower is.I will try runing with the water temp gauge at it lowest to see if I have any luck with this.The main reason I need to root cause as I said in previous msg. is if this is a water supply then a new shower will have the same prob.:)

Bull76

D1marmo wrote: »

Cheers Bull76
I was just mentioning the W.H.B. and Bath C.W.S. as they are supplied from the same tank as the shower is.I will try runing with the water temp gauge at it lowest to see if I have any luck with this.The main reason I need to root cause as I said in previous msg. is if this is a water supply then a new shower will have the same prob.:)

The feed might be coming from the same tank, but it should have it's own feed from the tank. If you head into the attic you can visually check the connection and make sure nothing is in front of the connection.

By running the shower on it's coolest setting you rule out temperature control, which helps eleminate alot.

Keep us up to date on how your getting on.

Stratocaster

Bull76 wrote: »

The feed might be coming from the same tank, but it should have it's own feed from the tank. If you head into the attic you can visually check the connection and make sure nothing is in front of the connection.

By running the shower on it's coolest setting you rule out temperature control, which helps eleminate alot.

Keep us up to date on how your getting on.

Thats correct. Your shower should have its own separate supply direct from the storage water tank. These supply's sometimes run in long horizontal lengths across the attic and should some air be introduced into the pipe work you could experience poor flow rate as the water tank has'nt enough head height to force the air out. Forgot to mention, you can have a flow of water coming out of the filter but thats not an indication of no air. The water will come and go in stages so you really have to have it open for some time to remove all the air. Its depends on the length of the shower supply run from the tank.

By turning the shower to full cold its the only way to draw the air out without disconnecting pipe work.

This can happen a lot when attic storage tanks become empty. Your hot and cold supply to taps can also suffer. If you cant get the air out in this hot/cold tap situation heres what I do.

For cold water problems I would shut of the valve in the hot press, disconnect it at the bottom of the valve, hold the valve over a bucket and open the valve, this works on the majority of cases. If there is still some air in the cold water supply pipe I would go up to the attic and find a fitting to disconnect somewhere further down the line from the tank and disconnect it over a large basin. Once I draw out the air I reconnect.

For hot water I would go to the kitchen sink and open the hot side of the mixer tap(if installed) I would then open the mains with my hand blocking the spout, this forces the water to go back up the hot side of the tap, through the hot pipe work and cylinder. The air will be forced out the vent pipe. If there is no mixer taps installed I would introduce this backwards flow by disconnecting hot pipe work and carrying out a method similar to the hand over the spout. Once I force out the air I reconnect.

Its not as straight forward as it sounds above and I would advise against attempting this unless your experienced enough to do so.

Having said all that, there is more than enough info there for you to draw the air out, if you are still experiencing problems it could be an indication that you require a replacement part for the shower or a whole new unit.

An electric unit located in an area where there is constant splashing of water is highly dangerous. Manufactures have to make the showers highly sensitive to any problems for the above reasons. This is why electric/pumped showers are so temperamental and I try to avoid installing/maintaining them at all costs. If you travel abroad and talk about different plumbing systems you will begin to notice a trend of mockery towards how Europeans locate pretty much a fuse board in a an area where you have a shower.