Two Routers - one line -Possible?

'scorthy

Built a den for the kids several metres from the main dwelling and I have installed a phone extension (cable) from source. I'm with Bt and I have an old modem, Prestige 600, left over when they sent me a wireless one. Would it be possible to have both running from the same phone line?
Thanks in advance.

Onikage

Afraid not. One DSL modem per line.

You could run an ethernet cable between them though.

gerkeo

run a network lead from the new router to the new building, there you can get a network switch (router with the routing bit switched off) and that should give you multiple data points in the new building.

Rather_b_diving

If you haven't got a Cat 5 ethernet cable between the 2 there's the option of either using the wifi from your existing modem
or try the powerline adapters (the 85Mbps ones are fine as the DSL is the bottleneck) - go to amazon.co.uk or Maplins

dub45

You could of course plug them in and out as needed as a short term measure. But I found that even a modem switched off and left in the socket will have an effect on the other one operating elsewhere in the house.

'scorthy

Thanks All,

I should have asked boards.ie before I ran the phone line. I'm still sore from crawling around in the attic and that insulation stuff rely itches.

I omitted to mention that during my attempt i.e. one wireless router in the den connected to my Son's PC (extreme gaming going on there! That's why I'm reluctant using a Power Line Adaptor running at 85Mbps [Argos also]) and the other router plugged in (no PC attached) I got some message on my wireless laptop "IP conflict".

My first concern was the length of phone cable run to the den (attenuation) this morning I had a bigger issue - a row of starlings doing River Dance on the light cable. Back to the drawing board.

jor el

'scorthy wrote: »

I omitted to mention that during my attempt i.e. one wireless router in the den connected to my Son's PC (extreme gaming going on there! That's why I'm reluctant using a Power Line Adaptor running at 85Mbps [Argos also])

I'm not really following, do you think the 85Mbps plug adapter isn't going to be fast enough, or that it will impact the gaming PC that's directly wired to the router? If you're connected wirelessly for gaming, go for wired instead. Wireless is less reliable, and can cause lag, which will ruin your games.

'scorthy wrote: »

and the other router plugged in (no PC attached) I got some message on my wireless laptop "IP conflict".

If you have the laptop's wireless network adapter, and Ethernet adapter in the same IP range (both 192.168.1.x, for example) then you'll get a conflict warning.

Your solution should be to use the wireless capability of the router to connect in the den, if the signal gets through, run an Ethernet cable, or use the powerline adapters.

L31mr0d

Since you already have the phone line wire routed and you don't fancy pulling it up and replacing it with ethernet you might as well look into getting a Home Phoneline Networking Adapter (HPNA) device.

watty

if the phone line is at least 2 pairs of CAT3, you can actually use it for ethernet, though shorter distance than Cat5.

pinouts.ru will show how 2 pairs go into a pair of RJ45 (look up EIA type B ethernet /RJ45 wiring)

'scorthy

Jor El:"I'm not really following, do you think the 85Mbps plug adapter isn't going to be fast enough, or that it will impact the gaming PC that's directly wired to the router?"

I was thinking that 85Mbps was limiting. I agree, wiring it for gaming is the best option.

Thanks all for your input. New learning curve for me.

watty

How fast is your Internet?

Even 10Mbps ethernet is probably good enough.

The IP conflict is an issue with your IP settings, not the method of networking. It may mean two different computers/laptops with same IP also.

Each adaptor on each PC/Laptop/gadget needs a unique IP in the same range

192.168.0.45
192.168.0.46
192.168.0.47
etc.
Or
192.168.1.45
192.168.1.46
192.168.1.47

The router/modem is usually 1 or 254 in the last group.
The last group can't be 0 or 255 thus the allowable range apart from router is 2 to 253,
The green part must be the same on everything. The last part different.

On all the PCs, laptops, gadgets, etc the DNS and Gateway are the same as the Router IP
The subnet mask MUST be the same on everything, 255.255.255.0
If you have muliple adaptors (ethernet, dialup, IEEE1394/iLink/Firewire, WiFi) then disable all except the one in use. Disabling IEEE1394 only affect networking it to another laptop, not using a mixing desk or camcorder.

jor el

'scorthy wrote: »

I was thinking that 85Mbps was limiting.

Unless you're on fibre, 85Mbps >>>> 7Mbps (max eircom broadband). I find the home plug much better than wireless, though I understand there can be issues with these (possibly rare).

vibe666

nice summary watty, if i'd typed that it would be about 5000 words of bumph!

just a quick word on powerline ethernet adapters. it depends very much on how your house is wired, as to how well they will work.

with good home wiring and both plugs on the same circuit in your house you can get decent speeds, but if you cross to another circuit (i.e. something on a different fuse, such as going from downstairs to upstairs power sockets) you can lose quite a bit of speed.

the thing that really killed it for me was that I went round when we moved in and got CFL bulbs for every light socket in the house and seemingly CFL and powerline ethernet really don't mix well. i was getting (at best, of the alleged 85mbps) 5-10mbps out of it as since it was supposed to replace a WDS wireless bridge (to bring my 20mbps broadband to another part of the house) that kept crapping out due to all my neighbours hogging the 2.4ghz spectrum, it was a failure from the start.

in the end i just gave up and drilled holes in the wall and ran cat6 about 20m between my two routers outside the house and touch wood it's been perfect ever since.

watty

Some CFL and all PL adaptors produce a lot of radio interfence.

The PL adaptors use the MW/SW radio bands and thus as well as creating interference up to 20m outside your house (they can interfere with or be interfered by DSL also) they are easily upset by PC or other PSUs or CFLs with the filters omitted as "cost saving".

A common trick is to submit a PC SMPSU or CFL or 12V halogen PSU for CE testing and then later leave out filtering to save costs.

vibe666

watty wrote: »

A common trick is to submit a PC SMPSU or CFL or 12V halogen PSU for CE testing and then later leave out filtering to save costs.

lol, that'll be why they were all pennies in ikea then!