G36C Upgrades - Most effective?

Phractal

Well... My thoughts on the matter are as follows - BTW this is regarding upgrades in general, not the battery issue. Bear in mind that heart I am a bit of a Physicist and an efficiency whore, so dont get angry at me.

First up, the piston head, piston, spring guide and air nozzle, in fact, the entire cylinder assembly, should be improved. ALso, measure the volume of the cylinder as it would be when the piston is to the rear, about to slam forward and fire.

Obtain a tightbore prometheus barrel of this volume internally. Ensure its crowning is of high quality, and that the barrel is straight. This is due to the Pneumatic Efficiency being Optimum at this point, as any physics student would know. Any less barrel is losing potential and therefore inefficient, any more barrel is useless friction - therefore useless (also, the suckback effect further reduces velocity...)

Now we replace the Hop Up unit entirely with whatever one takes your fancy. I like Guarder Clear. Whatever floats your boat.

Now that the pneumatic efficiency is sorted, we look to electrical. Rewire the entire thing with nice, high flow, thick gauge copper wire of LOW resistance. Aim for soldered, or gold plated, contacts. A MOSFET is an option, as is a variable resistor in line between battery and motor as a 'Variable ROF' unit.

The gearbox then gets dealt with. Again, whatever YOU like in there, goes in there.

Finally, we examine the battery issue. If you reckon the mechanical components can put up with the stress of higher speeds, go for it. But at least ensure the electronics are capable of handeling the battery first. If the electronics can deal with it, and the mechanical components are strong enough, its worth going for IF you want the higher ROF. Some like higher ROF, some dont. Personal choice really.

After that, keep it clean and lubed, check electronics regularly for damage.

DeBurca

Phractal wrote: »

Well... My thoughts on the matter are as follows - BTW this is regarding upgrades in general, not the battery issue. Bear in mind that heart I am a bit of a Physicist and an efficiency whore, so dont get angry at me.

First up, the piston head, piston, spring guide and air nozzle, in fact, the entire cylinder assembly, should be improved. ALso, measure the volume of the cylinder as it would be when the piston is to the rear, about to slam forward and fire.

Obtain a tightbore prometheus barrel of this volume internally. Ensure its crowning is of high quality, and that the barrel is straight. This is due to the Pneumatic Efficiency being Optimum at this point, as any physics student would know. Any less barrel is losing potential and therefore inefficient, any more barrel is useless friction - therefore useless (also, the suckback effect further reduces velocity...)

Now we replace the Hop Up unit entirely with whatever one takes your fancy. I like Guarder Clear. Whatever floats your boat.

Now that the pneumatic efficiency is sorted, we look to electrical. Rewire the entire thing with nice, high flow, thick gauge copper wire of LOW resistance. Aim for soldered, or gold plated, contacts. A MOSFET is an option, as is a variable resistor in line between battery and motor as a 'Variable ROF' unit.

The gearbox then gets dealt with. Again, whatever YOU like in there, goes in there.

Finally, we examine the battery issue. If you reckon the mechanical components can put up with the stress of higher speeds, go for it. But at least ensure the electronics are capable of handeling the battery first. If the electronics can deal with it, and the mechanical components are strong enough, its worth going for IF you want the higher ROF. Some like higher ROF, some dont. Personal choice really.

After that, keep it clean and lubed, check electronics regularly for damage.

It would want to be one awful big variable resistor considering it would be handeling current in the order of 15 amps plus

Firekitten

DeBurca wrote: »

It would want to be one awful big variable resistor considering it would be handeling current in the order of 15 amps plus

Mmmmm 15amps is too thin.... AEGS need 20amp ones generally for an 8.4, and size matters!

Masada

15 amps is the average draw, not the fuse. you use a fuse rated higher than the draw on the gearbox.