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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    deezell wrote: »
    I mention it in case the main and inaccessible areas are awkwardly shaped, slopes, etc. If you have to do a lot a lot of to-ing and fro-ing on corners, around beds, trees, edges etc, you don't need to be wrestling that much weight. There's no steering or reverse on a big walk behind (though Toro have it on US models).

    Etesia have reverse.

    I’ve never struggled with manoeuvrability.

    And a solidly made heavier machine will last a good while.

    Admittedly the newer hondas weirdly aren’t quite as smooth/quiet as the early noughties ones.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 taz801


    taz801 wrote: »
    Hi did u purchase cub cadet??[

    paid deposit thats all but he sells both so I can still change my mind.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,393 ✭✭✭BrianD3


    monkeynuz wrote: »
    Etesia have reverse.

    I’ve never struggled with manoeuvrability.

    And a solidly made heavier machine will last a good while.

    Admittedly the newer hondas weirdly aren’t quite as smooth/quiet as the early noughties ones.
    Have you any thoughts on the lighter/non commercial Hondas like the HRX with the Xenoy deck and the GCV engine.

    These seem to cost about double the price of generic mowers with steel deck and either Honda GCV or B&S engines.

    My fear is that you would be paying for the name and the reputation of the older and heavier duty Hondas with the cast Aluminum decks and GXV engines.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    BrianD3 wrote: »
    Have you any thoughts on the lighter/non commercial Hondas like the HRX with the Xenoy deck and the GCV engine.

    These seem to cost about double the price of generic mowers with steel deck and either Honda GCV or B&S engines.

    My fear is that you would be paying for the name and the reputation of the older and heavier duty Hondas with the cast Aluminum decks and GXV engines.

    I know someone who loves his plastic deck Honda and he can’t understand why I love the heavier pro model, I have never had a gcv engine but know they’re very good.

    The hrh has been in commercial use with me for 8 years with very little trouble.

    I also have the hrh qx roller which I’ve had for 17 years for commercial use for a few years then domestic since and it also bomb proof!

    I like the weight of the heavier decks.

    I should add that the friend with the plastic one is a lawnmower mechanic/sales person and he uses it for his own garden.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,661 ✭✭✭Muppet Man


    Folks, just wondering where / what web site would I use to sell my John Deere Tractor Mower. I have it up on DoneDeal and Adverts. Just wondering if I should advertise anywhere else.

    Thanks,
    Muppet Man


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,462 ✭✭✭TheBazman




  • Registered Users Posts: 6 FannyBadger


    What is the general opinion on grass deflectors? Are they any real use, or do they just do a tidier job when cutting the grass with no collector attached?

    I have a small-ish Castelgarden (xdc 170hd) and a big area out the back that just grows like mad - it's too much to collect so I use the mulch plug there all the time, and this probably causes the huge growth, especially at the start of the season. The first cut around March is always a horrible experience listening to the engine and blades struggle through the thicket, and nothing like the fresh smell of blade-belt burn in the evening! So to try and ease the pressure on the mower a little bit, I usually cut this bit with the grass box and mulch plug left off, and just fire the grass out the back. But it still regularly clogs and I have to carry a broom handle with me to unclog it every 5 mins. I was wondering if a deflector might stop some of the grass being blown back into the chute on a windy day, but I can't imagine it would help all that much with the clogging overall. (The grass there rarely dries fully when it gets too long).
    I'd be interested to know if anyone has a deflector and if they find it much use?

    Also would appreciate any other suggestions on how to manage this - I should probably start cutting it on a dry day in December at least. Would it be worthwhile renting a much more powerful mower to do the first cut, rather than tear the backside out of my own one? (Although I have read on here that wet grass will clog regardless of the machine I think).

    Cheers!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    Mulching is extremely taxing when grass is long, as the mower is attempting to cut each blade and stem multiple times, 5,6, or more, instead of just once. When the grass is too high/damp, do you mow with the deck at full height? Mow and bag at full height, next day drop a few notches and mow or mulch. For extreme grass height, mow at full height, with maybe only a third of the deck width. Again, a day to dry out, and go again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6 FannyBadger


    Thanks deezell. I do mow this part at full height, but 80cm cut is the highest setting on the lawnmower, and it still struggles with that at the start of the season. Bagging is not really an option, there's too much grass and I'd probably use a few tanks of petrol just for emptying, even with a dumping area in the four corners. Usually I fire it out the back and rake it up later after it dries out and the wind blows some of it away! I might try the third of a deck width alright, see how that goes. You don't see much point in a deflector anyway?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    deezell wrote: »
    Mulching is extremely taxing when grass is long, as the mower is attempting to cut each blade and stem multiple times, 5,6, or more, instead of just once. When the grass is too high/damp, do you mow with the deck at full height? Mow and bag at full height, next day drop a few notches and mow or mulch. For extreme grass height, mow at full height, with maybe only a third of the deck width. Again, a day to dry out, and go again.

    I would also add, go very very slowly to allow the blade to clear the grass effectively, also personally I would blow the grass out the back and then go over again from side to side, deezel’s suggestion of only taking half passes is spot on.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,115 ✭✭✭monkeynuz


    Thanks deezell. I do mow this part at full height, but 80cm cut is the highest setting on the lawnmower, and it still struggles with that at the start of the season. Bagging is not really an option, there's too much grass and I'd probably use a few tanks of petrol just for emptying, even with a dumping area in the four corners. Usually I fire it out the back and rake it up later after it dries out and the wind blows some of it away! I might try the third of a deck width alright, see how that goes. You don't see much point in a deflector anyway?

    Deflectors are fairly pointless with long grass.

    Also freshly sharpen your blade before cutting the long damp stuff and check it after cutting and if needed sharpen it again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 Sheels61


    Hi all, has anyone purchased the eco trim cordless lawnmower from woodies. I would appreciate any feedback, as I can’t find anything online regarding this brand. Or does anyone have recommendations for a cordless lawnmower for a small/medium size garden.

    Many Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭Bacchus


    Anyone know where to buy a replacement Flymo lawnmower battery? One of the 20v ones died (only got it last year!) and you need the two of them to run the mower. I thought it'd be a straightforward thing to find but I can't find the part anywhere. I've contacted Flymo customer support but no word back there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    Bacchus wrote: »
    Anyone know where to buy a replacement Flymo lawnmower battery? One of the 20v ones died (only got it last year!) and you need the two of them to run the mower. I thought it'd be a straightforward thing to find but I can't find the part anywhere. I've contacted Flymo customer support but no word back there.

    Part no? Or a picture.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭Bacchus




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    Bacchus wrote: »

    Check if the SKU or part number on the battery is 967913201
    This is a flymo 20v 2.5aH li battery, seems to be common in flymo hand tools, a little under strength for a mower, but you say it needs two to operate. That number is showing up out of stock everywhere, except as part of a purchase with a collection of tools, strimmer, blower and hedge trimmer. That set come with 2 batteries and a charger, but costs £250+
    Obsolete power tool batteries are as common as muck, recycling skips are full of perfect tools with no batteries. Over the years I've opened the cases and identified the internal li cells, (there are likely 5 cells in those Flymo batteries,) usually tag welded in series, so a bit of gunthering required to strip and replace with matching generic cellls, but a good way of saving a useful tool.

    Is this the same label on yours?


    547376.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    Bacchus wrote: »

    After some more digging, I can see that battery is also used in a host of generic and brand tools, weedeater, yardmaster, sears, but also husqvarna. Part number 591088401

    The Flymo 200li mower normally comes with a single 40v li battery, but I suspect the one you got was designed to be part of a set with the two smaller batteries so they could be shared with the hand tools. Judging by the difficulty finding this battery in stock, USA included, I suspect that mower was end of line, discontinued, or split from a package, but if it was old stock the batteries would not have benefited from lying around uncharged for who knows how long. It might explain why it expired after a year. Would you want to spend €100 each on two batteries even if you could get them?

    Here's husky version in the US,
    https://powermowersales.com/husqvarna-591088401

    You could try a few irish husky dealers to see if they have one on a shelf somewhere, but I wouldn't pay too much for them, if you only get one, the other will probably die as quick, two might cost more than you paid for the entire mower.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭Bacchus


    That's the battery alright. Yeah, two batteries needed for the mower. What BS for a supplier to just discontinue a battery type. Where's the longevity in cordless mowers if that's the case. It wasn't too expensive at least but what a waste of money if this I the case. Corded may be a pain but at least you don't have this nonsense.

    The mower itself has been ideal. Small, light, enough juice in a charge to do front and back. Ugh. I might see can I find the receipt and try get something from Argos/Flymo.

    Thanks for your help btw.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    Bacchus wrote: »
    That's the battery alright. Yeah, two batteries needed for the mower. What BS for a supplier to just discontinue a battery type. Where's the longevity in cordless mowers if that's the case. It wasn't too expensive at least but what a waste of money if this I the case. Corded may be a pain but at least you don't have this nonsense.

    The mower itself has been ideal. Small, light, enough juice in a charge to do front and back. Ugh. I might see can I find the receipt and try get something from Argos/Flymo.

    Thanks for your help btw.

    There's a world scarcity of li batteries. That mower should have a two year warranty if bought in Argos. I don't see the 200 li in their list, but they have the 300, argos no. 416/2449, which appears to use the same baterries,
    but possibly a different type. Use your bank statement as proof of purchase if you bought with a card, or if you bought click and collect you'll have online reference. You might get an exchange to the value, get a better model, single battery type. A Bosch maybe.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭Bacchus


    deezell wrote: »
    There's a world scarcity of li batteries. That mower should have a two year warranty if bought in Argos. I don't see the 200 li in their list, but they have the 300, argos no. 416/2449, which appears to use the same baterries,
    but possibly a different type. Use your bank statement as proof of purchase if you bought with a card, or if you bought click and collect you'll have online reference. You might get an exchange to the value, get a better model, single battery type. A Bosch maybe.

    Thanks. I'll dig out the bank statement and go in to them. It's actually the 300 model I have, same battery. I'd happily go for it again but not if the batteries are an issue so hopefully will be able to exchange for another brand.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 315 ✭✭soundman45


    Any else have the misfortune to buy a protool lawnmower, bought a 21in self propelled last year and so far the primer bulb has come off the engine twice and the front wheel just snapped off, the hardware store I bought it in is not interested and the supplier won't deal with the public just saying go back to the shop you purchased from, €300 yo yo down the drain.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,441 ✭✭✭Dohvolle


    soundman45 wrote: »
    Any else have the misfortune to buy a protool lawnmower, bought a 21in self propelled last year and so far the primer bulb has come off the engine twice and the front wheel just snapped off, the hardware store I bought it in is not interested and the supplier won't deal with the public just saying go back to the shop you purchased from, €300 yo yo down the drain.

    The hardware store has an obligation to sort you out. Talk to consumer affairs, failing that talk to a solicitor. I have a 2003 Tecumseh, still with all its original bits, even if it looks ropey. Primer bulbs shouldn't fall off. That's dangerous, before even mentioning poor quality.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    21" self propelled for €300 is always going to be a yellowpack. In particular, I've pointed out here before how many ( not all) of these cheap generics have wheels off a children's toy. If its in warranty, just dump on the retailer. If it's out, try the protool distributor for parts;

    John Stafford & Sons.
    The Village, Blackwater
    Co. Wexford, Y21 DR60
    +353 53 936 7246
    sales@stafford.ie

    If these are the guys who won't deal with you, Remind them of the power of facepuke and a negative thread. You can probably get a generic wheel from John McKenna in Glasnevin, http://www.johnmckenna.eu/?page_id=255
    Maybe even a more robust one. I assume the wheel plastic broke, not the steel stub axle.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,729 ✭✭✭deezell


    Bacchus wrote: »
    Thanks. I'll dig out the bank statement and go in to them. It's actually the 300 model I have, same battery. I'd happily go for it again but not if the batteries are an issue so hopefully will be able to exchange for another brand.
    Speaking of cheap lawnmowers, and unservicable cordless tools, i seen one of these B&Q McAlister cheapos dumped at the bottle bank, it was brand new looking, minus the battery. Says it all, it didn't even get to an electrical recycling point, owner obviously thought it was about as useful as a beer can.
    mac-allister-mlm18-li-cordless-18v-push-lawnmower~5036581062958_01c?$MOB_PREV$&$width=540&$height=540


  • Registered Users Posts: 315 ✭✭soundman45


    deezell wrote: »
    21" self propelled for €300 is always going to be a yellowpack. In particular, I've pointed out here before how many ( not all) of these cheap generics have wheels off a children's toy. If its in warranty, just dump on the retailer. If it's out, try the protool distributor for parts;

    John Stafford & Sons.
    The Village, Blackwater
    Co. Wexford, Y21 DR60
    +353 53 936 7246
    sales@stafford.ie

    If these are the guys who won't deal with you, Remind them of the power of facepuke and a negative thread. You can probably get a generic wheel from John McKenna in Glasnevin, http://www.johnmckenna.eu/?page_id=255
    Maybe even a more robust one. I assume the wheel plastic broke, not the steel stub axle.

    Yes the supplier in Wexford refuse to deal with the 'public' John mc Kenna could be good for parts, he didn't appear in any searches I did, thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 paluiz


    Snapper vs Weibang vs Oleo Mac: which is best?

    I am about to buy a new mower. I'm going for 21" cut, engine around 200cc, walk behind self-propelled. It's to cut a fairly large area (about ½ acre) of rough-ish grass and my current mower struggles. I like to keep things simple so don't want electric start. I'm down to a choice of 3 quite similar machines. I am not familiar with any of them so would appreciate feedback on how well built they are. The specific mowers are Snapper NX90V, Weibang WB537SLCV and Oleo Mac G53VK, though I'm mainly looking for general comments on the brands in general. All three of these have variable speed drive but in some ways that just seems like another thing to go wrong and I might save some money by getting the single speed variant. (I think the variable would be useful if it included a reasonably slow setting, but the only one I have tried is a Weibang and the slowest was about the speed of my current non-variable mower - I'd have been half running to keep up with the fastest speed.) The Snapper and Weibang models are quite close in price, but the Oleo Mac is substantially cheaper. I have no idea whether this is because it's poorly made, or just better value. It is made in EU so there should be less tax involved. Maybe?? Dealers seem quite keen to sell me a Weibang but I don't know if that's because it's a better mower or because it has a higher dealer mark-up.

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,928 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Sheels61 wrote: »
    Hi all, has anyone purchased the eco trim cordless lawnmower from woodies. I would appreciate any feedback, as I can’t find anything online regarding this brand. Or does anyone have recommendations for a cordless lawnmower for a small/medium size garden.

    Many Thanks

    what size of lawn are we talking about?

    I've bought this from Argos:
    https://www.argos.co.uk/product/7928879

    Only used it a couple of times, but happy enough with it. compared to the push petrol mower I was using:

    pros:
    much lighter and more maneuverable
    no faffing around with string-pull, priming the carburettor etc. I spent half my time previously just starting the damn mower.
    adjust all 4 wheel heights in one lever
    the included battery powered strimmer is so much handier than having to run an extension cord from the house.

    all of these make mowing so much easier and quicker.

    cons:
    battery life means only really suitable for a small garden - I don't think I would get the whole of my front and back done in one go, but I'm planning to leave sections go "wild" and it's so easy to pull the battery mower out and do a section I'm not worried about it.
    It's not as powerful - I used to use the petrol mower to "mulch" hedge clippings I'd thrown on the grass, but I have a shredder as well so I'll just use that.

    Both genuine and knock-off Worx batteries are available on Amazon and Ebay, in larger capacities too, but Brexit has made bringing batteries to Ireland difficult and there doesn't seem to be a local supplier. So if the batteries do die, I should be able to replace them, but it might be expensive.


  • Registered Users Posts: 240 ✭✭kaiserrussel




    Bumping this one up again in case someone with some context could advise thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 208 ✭✭damo80


    https://www.aldi.ie/ferrex-46cm-petrol-lawn-mower/p/710857446914000

    is this worth the money or am i best stay well away? It's to cut a fairly large area (about3/4 acre) of rough uneven grass/ground. currently i use a strimmer :(


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,441 ✭✭✭Dohvolle


    B&S engine at least.
    I got a 3 in 1 petrol strimmer from aldi at least 4 years ago. Never an ounce of trouble with it, and it was kept busy chopping a communal green in spring, and cutting rambling rose in the last house. Advice I got from local lawnmower fixing folk is they are fine once they are running. When they stop running, they aren't worth the hassle of getting parts. Otherwise their consumables (spark plug/filters etc) are pretty standard, and many companies make generic parts to fit Aldi or Lidl garden power tools.
    What's the price difference between a top name product with the same features?


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