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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,898 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    80s Child wrote: »
    Howdy,

    Can I ask what you think of these:

    http://touch.adverts.ie/petrol/honda-lawnmower/10270214

    https://www.donedeal.ie/gardenequipment-for-sale/honda-powered-lawnmower/11605484

    I'm interested in a solid mower that will last me a good few years. I've about 1/3 of an acre to cut with a fairly moss ridden back garden at the moment!

    Sounds expensive to me. The size can't be 22 inch & he can't specify the model. Also had a wheel replaced - I have a 20 year old Honda with perfect wheels.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭80s Child




  • Registered Users Posts: 503 ✭✭✭johnb25


    80s Child wrote: »

    I bought one of these second-hand last spring and am very happy with it. Cutting just over 1/3 acre, in reasonable condition. Great power, wet not a problem.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭80s Child


    johnb25 wrote: »
    I bought one of these second-hand last spring and am very happy with it. Cutting just over 1/3 acre, in reasonable condition. Great power, wet not a problem.

    Excellent!! And the tray? That seems to be he main problem with Honda, how do you find it? Or more importantly, how do you think it will wear?


  • Registered Users Posts: 503 ✭✭✭johnb25


    80s Child wrote: »
    Excellent!! And the tray? That seems to be he main problem with Honda, how do you find it? Or more importantly, how do you think it will wear?

    I expect it will wear well; I do give it a quick brush out after almost every use, so it is kept fairly clean.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭gooner99


    Had a quick look Today at mowers in the north. Mower shop had various makes, honda, massport, viking, gardencare, rover,etc. The guy said that the best bang for the buck he had on an aluminium deck was the rover pro cut 50 with a briggs engine. He runs them himself for contract work, was selling them for years, loads of spares and had ones from the 90s still coming in for service. He could do one for 575 sterling. Looked a nice mower. I liked the fully open back end into the grass box. Only thing i found a bit alien was the 4 small blades on a disc setup and the way the box is held in place by a plate. Anyone experience?


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    flail blades they're called which help lessen the impact on a spindle if you hit something solid and imo don't give the best of finishes compared to your regular single blade


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    fryup wrote: »
    flail blades they're called and imo don't gives the best of finishes compared to your regular singblade

    Don't know exactly what blades are on the rover but I used to use Haytor machines with individual blades on a disk and they did a far better quality cut than most single blades. You did need to replace them occasionally.

    I've been cutting grass for donkeys years, used to do contract cutting and the rover 50 looks a decent machine I'd consider for that type of work and tbh there aren't many I'd consider any good now a days. Don't get me wrong €1200 or more spent on a Honda gets a better machine but not a better machine for contract grass cutting - both good work and rough. The rover 50 looks the sort of machine that would work fine without the grass box which again is often what you need for contract work . I don't know what engine is on the rover 50 pro, I'd want the 650 B&S engine or larger for 20 inches.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    gooner99 wrote: »
    Had a quick look Today at mowers in the north. Mower shop had various makes, honda, massport, viking, gardencare, rover,etc. The guy said that the best bang for the buck he had on an aluminium deck was the rover pro cut 50 with a briggs engine. He runs them himself for contract work, was selling them for years, loads of spares and had ones from the 90s still coming in for service. He could do one for 575 sterling. Looked a nice mower. I liked the fully open back end into the grass box. Only thing i found a bit alien was the 4 small blades on a disc setup and the way the box is held in place by a plate. Anyone experience?

    I've had rover lawn mowers always too. The old ones have the Briggs quantum engine which was great. I still have a 12 year old one. The pro 50 has the 675 engine. I've had trouble with this engine twice in the last 2 years.

    If you could stretch to it the rover 560 with a Briggs 850 engine is around 700 sterling. It's a great mower. I mulched this after heavy rain yesterday 13 days without a cut. 1st picture. I cut and collected the second picture for a guy who told me he hadn't cut it in 3 weeks. The 3rd picture is another mulch one. 2 weeks since last cut and wet

    The blades are handy. You can access them by lifting up the lid at the back so you don't have to turn the mower on its side

    The pro 50 is fine if you are only using it for yourself. But I found it struggled with the mulching


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,322 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Meursault wrote: »
    hi All,

    I was hoping one of you might be able solve an issue that I am having with my ride on mower. There appears to be some kind of electrical fault with the ignition. when i try to turn on the mower, nothing at all happens. it is completely dead. however, when i open the bonnet, and move the wires connecting to the ignition it starts fine. i assume it is a loose wire or something, but what i am worried about is the last time i did this (yesterday), when i did the usual thing of fiddling with the wires to get it going, i noticed smoke came from the engine, so now i am slightly worried. anyone any idea of what this could be? am i going to hard on the ignition or something? i dont want to continue with this trick for starting the mower, if it means i am going to damage the engine.

    Thanks

    It sounds like there is not too much wrong with your mower, but it also sounds like you're not too handy with electrical & mechanical issues. Unfortunately, if you mess it up you could end up with a fire and wreck your mower. I suggest that you get someone knowledgeable to look at it - probably only needs a lead or connection repaired (modest cost).


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭gooner99


    my3cents wrote: »
    Don't know exactly what blades are on the rover but I used to use Haytor machines with individual blades on a disk and they did a far better quality cut than most single blades. You did need to replace them occasionally.

    I've been cutting grass for donkeys years, used to do contract cutting and the rover 50 looks a decent machine I'd consider for that type of work and tbh there aren't many I'd consider any good now a days. Don't get me wrong €1200 or more spent on a Honda gets a better machine but not a better machine for contract grass cutting - both good work and rough. The rover 50 looks the sort of machine that would work fine without the grass box which again is often what you need for contract work . I don't know what engine is on the rover 50 pro, I'd want the 650 B&S engine or larger for 20 inches.

    Yeah its a briggs 675 engine thats on it. I am mowing my own lawn only, quite a big area,but a mixed bag of flat and smooth, hilly and rough. Looking for one with a good drive and easy to manoeuvre.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,041 ✭✭✭gooner99


    I've had rover lawn mowers always too. The old ones have the Briggs quantum engine which was great. I still have a 12 year old one. The pro 50 has the 675 engine. I've had trouble with this engine twice in the last 2 years.

    If you could stretch to it the rover 560 with a Briggs 850 engine is around 700 sterling. It's a great mower. I mulched this after heavy rain yesterday 13 days without a cut. 1st picture. I cut and collected the second picture for a guy who told me he hadn't cut it in 3 weeks. The 3rd picture is another mulch one. 2 weeks since last cut and wet

    The blades are handy. You can access them by lifting up the lid at the back so you don't have to turn the mower on its side

    The pro 50 is fine if you are only using it for yourself. But I found it struggled with the mulching

    Had the quantum on my last mower.excellent engine, never any trouble in 12 years. But I did service it myself every year. I usually don't mulch, but I did like the fully open rear, I'd say it would collect fairly good in the wet.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    gooner99 wrote: »
    Had the quantum on my last mower.excellent engine, never any trouble in 12 years. But I did service it myself every year. I usually don't mulch, but I did like the fully open rear, I'd say it would collect fairly good in the wet.

    Definitely does a good job in the wet. If its really wet it wont fill the box right but no problem in between showers


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Some help please.
    2 years ago my father gifted me an Aldi self propelled mower. I have a bit under a 1/2 acre of grass to cut. One section I large rectangular shape with no obstacles the other has shrubs, trees flowerbeds etc.
    All areas are level.
    The cutting is taking me about 2 1/2 hours altogether and I normally spread it over 2 evenings.
    The Aldi mower does an alright job but I am wondering if upgrading to a larger more suitable mower would reduce the ease and length of time involved in mowing.

    I would like something that is reliable and will last and I don't mind paying for quality and would be prepared to spend up to €700.

    Could anyone supply opinions or suggestions for me please?


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    ^^^^^^^^^^

    what width cut is the aldi one? i presume its petrol?

    @ €700 i'd be tempted to get a second hand ride on, one of those buggy rear engine types that are easy to maneuver around tree & shrubs..and keep the aldi one for the areas that are awkward to get at..should save time & effort


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭2 Wheels Good


    TheTorment wrote: »
    Some help please.
    2 years ago my father gifted me an Aldi self propelled mower. I have a bit under a 1/2 acre of grass to cut. One section I large rectangular shape with no obstacles the other has shrubs, trees flowerbeds etc.
    All areas are level.
    The cutting is taking me about 2 1/2 hours altogether and I normally spread it over 2 evenings.
    The Aldi mower does an alright job but I am wondering if upgrading to a larger more suitable mower would reduce the ease and length of time involved in mowing.

    I would like something that is reliable and will last and I don't mind paying for quality and would be prepared to spend up to €700.

    Could anyone supply opinions or suggestions for me please?
    Something like an Active would be in your budget, we have one from when they were marketed as Harry and have found it relatively good.
    Found this model ACTIVE 5000 SB for €650 which might be ok, it's a single speed self propelled.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,986 ✭✭✭philstar


    quick question...

    do all ride on's come with a neutral gear safety switch??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    philstar wrote: »
    quick question...

    do all ride on's come with a neutral gear safety switch??

    Do you mean that you can't start them unless in neutral?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,986 ✭✭✭philstar


    yes


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Can't say all but its a feature of all the hydro-static Honda lawn tractors I've seen.

    Its not the difficult a feature to implement and cheap to do so can't see why it wouldn't be a common feature. Certainly wasn't a few years back as I have had loads of lawn tractors without the feature.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 10,969 ✭✭✭✭alchemist33


    I have a Husqvarna hydrostatic and have never heard of this. It doesn't have any gears that I know, never mind neutral. I have to have the brake on to start it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    I have a Husqvarna hydrostatic and have never heard of this. It doesn't have any gears that I know, never mind neutral. I have to have the brake on to start it.

    If you aren't going forward or backwards with a hydrostatic drive then you are in effect in neutral. Next time you start yours put your foot on the pedal and see if it will start?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,986 ✭✭✭philstar


    the reason i ask is...my ride on is geared...and it has me stumped

    i checked the solenoid its fine, the ignition switch its fine..all safety switches fine...

    and yet some days it starts not a bother and other days it won't start..nothing, not so much as a click :confused:


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,969 ✭✭✭✭alchemist33


    my3cents wrote: »
    If you aren't going forward or backwards with a hydrostatic drive then you are in effect in neutral. Next time you start yours put your foot on the pedal and see if it will start?

    hopefully that'll be a couple of weeks yet :D

    But will do


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    philstar wrote: »
    the reason i ask is...my ride on is geared...and it has me stumped

    i checked the solenoid its fine, the ignition switch its fine..all safety switches fine...

    and yet some days it starts not a bother and other days it won't start..nothing, not so much as a click :confused:

    If there are any bullet connectors in the wiring circuit pull them apart and check for corrosion.

    Also check for micro-switches for alignment, sticking and corroded connections.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 2,986 ✭✭✭philstar


    micro-switches for alignment?

    are they the same as safety switches? and how do i know if they are out of alignment?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    philstar wrote: »
    micro-switches for alignment?

    are they the same as safety switches? and how do i know if they are out of alignment?

    I say micro-switch as that is what is sometimes used but I really mean any switch used to provide safely. There are often adjustments on the switch mountings or the plate/spring/bolt head that pushes against them. For example if you have hammered the brake in a moment of underpants changing panic to stop the mower you could have bent the micro-switch mountings and change the alignment.

    My Honda has a stupid neutral detection switch but because there is about a centimeter of slack in the forward and reverse pedals before they engage can cause my machine to stop because it thinks I'm in reverse (when I'm not) with the the mower blades running.

    Given the environment they work in damp/heat/dirt/vibration there's also a good chance an electric switch will fail or only work intermittently.


  • Registered Users Posts: 411 ✭✭Bravobabe


    Iseki SXG19 - any opinions
    Been offered one of these to cut large area (5 acres) and need good grass collection - its 2 years old.
    Might be required to cut another area of similar size aw well in the near future
    What price should I be expecting to pay for it?
    (Was previously using a very old Westwood 12hp)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    Bravobabe wrote: »
    Iseki SXG19 - any opinions
    Been offered one of these to cut large area (5 acres) and need good grass collection - its 2 years old.
    Might be required to cut another area of similar size aw well in the near future
    What price should I be expecting to pay for it?
    (Was previously using a very old Westwood 12hp)

    No idea of price but I'd rate Iseki alongside Kubota.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 268 ✭✭fox0512


    philstar wrote: »
    the reason i ask is...my ride on is geared...and it has me stumped

    i checked the solenoid its fine, the ignition switch its fine..all safety switches fine...

    and yet some days it starts not a bother and other days it won't start..nothing, not so much as a click :confused:

    If it starts in gear or not get in the habit of N before turning key...most wont start in gear unless brake/clutch is down as this will take the tension off the drive belt.. Safety switch issue somewhere...check one activated but seat first..these can get floppy, you might notice going over a bump or if you lean to one side of mower a bit the engine will try and cut out....if you turn key and nothing at all happens and you have an alarm (not all makes/models) then you may have a flakey blade engage switch....check brake switch etc..


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