The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

my3cents

Man of Aran wrote: »

Agree with you and FoxO, the OP might have disturbed connector block or the ground cable when he went at the carb repair.
Was it charging Ok before he went at the carb issue would be starting point in diagnosis, if so then retrace steps!
A lot of good and helpful info on this thread lads,,,,, keep it up.
One that comes to mind is the 40:1 mix for 2 Stroke garden tools as being a good all-round ratio that one of ye suggested here. I tried it and you know what, many tools now run sweet as a nut where they were slow to start or sluggish before.

Interestingly I bought one of those really cheap strimmers with loads of different attachments recently and the dealer said not to use the recommended 25:1 mix as they had had problems with returned units totally fouled up with partly burnt oil.

He suggested 40:1 and I use 50:1 normally husqvarna, johnsreds or stihl oil. The strimmer has had about 10l of fuel through it so far and its running fine - bit rich but that's better than too lean on a potentially very high revving 2 stroke engine.

my3cents

fryup wrote: »

the battery light comes on dash, and in user manual it says that indicates insufficient charge

*and it started before carb problem

Same happened to me and it was corrosion in the connections from the alternator just after they come out of the engine. Wiggle them with the engine running and see if the light goes out.

Man of Aran

fryup wrote: »

the battery light comes on dash, and in user manual it says that indicates insufficient charge

*and it started before carb problem

Then looking at your 2 reported issues in a different light, your fuel issue issue may simply have been related to insufficient voltage at the 'fuel on'solenoid due to a discharged battery through erratic charging.
These solenoids are " power to load" , or NC with ignition off.
Just my thoughts on it .....hope you get it sorted.

fox0512

All good points folks.. For those you like to fix your own machines I strongly recommend investing in a multimeter and it doesn't have to be a expensive one. As Man Of Aran mentioned was there volt issues to solenoid to begin with, its possible. With suspected sol issues we can first with the multi check wires for any voltage drop if all ok there we can remove sol plug it back in and ground it of the engine to check if pin is working as it should...just listening for the click sound is not good enough as some sols that are losing magnetism the pin can rise in 5 -10 min and shutting of jet and mower dies..

With the mulit we can check power to your clutch, we can test safety switches and wiring for continuity.

Sometimes like in Fryups situation when we have a carb prob and such and we have been trying to start the engine frequently, we can just run the batt down a bit...For suspected batt issue we can check batt with multi and we are looking 12.5v ish....Next check is to check batt under load...for example, we have just cut the grass and after a short period we go to fire up mower again and it struggles or wont turn over at all, again with the multi check reading from batt when you turn key..at this point we are looking for a healthy reading of 9.4v upwards...there is some give on that but if a batt goes down to 5 6 7v etc the batt is bad. we can use the multi to check if batt is receiving charge and it should read 14v ish.

Not all batts that give a 12.5v reading are healthy.. If an engine has timing problems this can also give the batt readings of a bad batt.. also for mowers with manual blade engage if the deck belt is to tight on main pulley when blades are not engaged this will cause binding with the same poor start results..

Brianmeath

fryup wrote: »

thanks lads got it sorted,

cleaned out the carb and fitted a second-hand fuel solenoid on and everything "seems" to be honky dory...no backfires, no flooding:)

but ...just one thing my battery is getting no charge...gammy voltage regulator??

We're you jump starting it lately?

Shefwedfan

Ok so I am the proud new owner of a Viking MT 5112 Z. Getting delivery tomorrow.

As this is first tractor lawnmower and first lawnmower at all I have owned just looking for tips on maintenance for the mower.

I have huge dry shed to store it in so it will be nice and dry but anything else I should do on regular basis?

Thanks

my3cents

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok so I am the proud new owner of a Viking MT 5112 Z. Getting delivery tomorrow.

As this is first tractor lawnmower and first lawnmower at all I have owned just looking for tips on maintenance for the mower.

I have huge dry shed to store it in so it will be nice and dry but anything else I should do on regular basis?

Thanks

If you can keep the deck clean underneath before put away that will help stop it rusting out.

Man of Aran

my3cents wrote: »

If you can keep the deck clean underneath before put away that will help stop it rusting out.

+1 on that, try to clean after each cut is best, especially if you just cut damp or wet grass that clings to underside of deck, blades and chute.
For sure do it before putting away for winter.

Change for fresh engine oil at the start of each season. SAE 30 . Oil filter too if your model has one.

Keep an eye on belt tensions, air cleaner, fuel filter element. Use fresh petrol as much as possible. May be wise to take out battery over winter too, store inside and trickle charge a/r.

Try not to hit rocks or " foreign bodies" hiding in longish grass, this will prolong blade sharpness and indeed the drive train too.

Invest in a grease gun and cartridge of grease, easy and clean to use. Follow your manual instruction in all matters but a regular shot of grease in steering pins, joints and idler pulley bearings is always a good thing to do. Glanbia have handy sets.

FoxO , CJH and some other very good lads on here can advise more.

Good luck and enjoy. Start out at high cut settings til you get a feel for it.
Like say 8 ->7 ->6. Don't go too low or you will just shave the ground.
Is it hydrostatic drive? Useful and comfortable feature.

Needles73

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Ok so I am the proud new owner of a Viking MT 5112 Z. Getting delivery tomorrow.

As this is first tractor lawnmower and first lawnmower at all I have owned just looking for tips on maintenance for the mower.

I have huge dry shed to store it in so it will be nice and dry but anything else I should do on regular basis?

Thanks

Keep it clean. Good idea is get a cheap breathable car cover to cover when in shed as it will end up getting covered in crap If doing any work in there. Don't put cover near hot exhaust at front. Indeed don't drive lawnmower into or onto anything flammable as exhaust is fairly exposed at lower front. The Viking plastic like all mowers fade so consider uv plastic polish every so often. Get serviced every 1 or 2 years depending on use. It won't have an hour clock so just do some basic calc on run time. When leaving up for winter ensure no petrol left in tank so let it run out to empty all petrol from carb also. It can go off and gunge carb. As other poster said keep deck clean especially when leaving up for winter. As much as possible cut dry gas but that's not always possible. Enjoy your mower it should last a long time if minded !! Reverse cut foot switch will drive you soft !!

my3cents

Man of Aran wrote: »

...
Change for fresh engine oil at the start of each season. SAE 30 . Oil filter too if your model has one.

....

Commercially we used to change the oil before we put the machines away for the winter on the theory that the acids in the old oil left in the crank case could do a bit of damage.

Man of Aran

my3cents wrote: »

Commercially we used to change the oil before we put the machines away for the winter on the theory that the acids in the old oil left in the crank case could do a bit of damage.

True I know but the flip side of this is that fresh oil left to sit for 3 ~5 months in the sump will absorb moisture from the humid air at atmospheric pressure.
Hobson's choice .... Which is lesser of 2 evils?

my3cents

Man of Aran wrote: »

True I know but the flip side of this is that fresh oil left to sit for 3 ~5 months in the sump will absorb moisture from the humid air at atmospheric pressure.
Hobson's choice .... Which is lesser of 2 evils?

I thought it would be laying it on a bit thick to say we also changed the oil again before starting in the spring.

Needles73

my3cents wrote: »

I thought it would be laying it on a bit thick to say we also changed the oil again before starting in the spring.

Yeah I think on a domestic mower that's overkill. Once a year is the max I'd go, I change every second on my Viking mower but I'm lazy

Shefwedfan

Thanks for advice guys! very much appreciated.

In regards to cleaning underneath. Should I invest in mower lift? I seen something on adverts ages ago which looked like a couple of steel bars to help raise it....

Needles73

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Thanks for advice guys! very much appreciated.

In regards to cleaning underneath. Should I invest in mower lift? I seen something on adverts ages ago which looked like a couple of steel bars to help raise it....

Well I don't use one but they are a bloody heavy mower to put on the side

my3cents

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Thanks for advice guys! very much appreciated.

In regards to cleaning underneath. Should I invest in mower lift? I seen something on adverts ages ago which looked like a couple of steel bars to help raise it....

Mower lift is handy often thought about getting one but tbh any time I'd be thinking of using one I'd be taking the deck of anyway.

What I do is drive the mower over a hollow in the ground near where I dump the grass then pull the deck up has high as it will go lay down and put my arm under and use some form of scraper. If you keep the underside really clean then you don't need much more than to pull your fingers around the surfaces with a pair of rubber gloves on. You only need a scraper if you leave it for too long and it sets hard.

fryup

my deck has a hose connection

is that good enough just to use that or do i need to scrape as well?

my3cents

fryup wrote: »

my deck has a hose connection

is that good enough just to use that or do i need to scrape as well?

They normally work quite well if you use them as soon as you have finished a cut but I don't really have anywhere that I want to flood with water and then spread with green slime.

Shefwedfan

Needles73 wrote: »

Well I don't use one but they are a bloody heavy mower to put on the side

I had a rental for a few days and I was just using lifting up so it was more or less at 45 degree angle and then getting my hands in......my back is not thanking me since...:p

Think I will go with the lift

Shefwedfan

So I have a brand new mower, full 5 gallon drum of fuel and a crazy look in my eye

Only problem is the f**king place is soaked

How long does it take stupid grass to dry out

Needles73

Shefwedfan wrote: »

So I have a brand new mower, full 5 gallon drum of fuel and a crazy look in my eye

Only problem is the f**king place is soaked

How long does it take stupid grass to dry out

Resist the temptation....you'll spend as much time under mower as on it if grass is really wet and long

my3cents

Shefwedfan wrote: »

So I have a brand new mower, full 5 gallon drum of fuel and a crazy look in my eye

Only problem is the f**king place is soaked

How long does it take stupid grass to dry out

Its not looking good for grass cutting the weekend.

I'd normally leave it till early afternoon to cut if I can which is when the grass is often dry enough, but not if its rained much late in the morning.

If the mower tyres aren't going to damage the grass then work out your cutting height and come up one or two notches.

The problem with wet grass is it sticks and is heavier so if you cut a bit higher you'll get more air flow under the deck and be able to lift and bag the heavier grass. You might still need to stop occasionally and unclog the grass cute and deck.

It can also help big time when there is no sun if its really windy. I often slip in a tidy up cut (high) in December on a cold windy day when the grass can be bone dry.

fox0512

Shefwedfan wrote: »

So I have a brand new mower, full 5 gallon drum of fuel and a crazy look in my eye

Only problem is the f**king place is soaked

How long does it take stupid grass to dry out

:pac::pac::pac::pac:

these are handy for a good clean...makes it easy!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/lifter-Lifting-Device-Garden-Tractor/dp/B00OV5JKLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473520081&sr=8-2&keywords=lawnmower+jack

ytpe2r5bxkn0c1

my3cents wrote: »

Its not looking good for grass cutting the weekend.

I'd normally leave it till early afternoon to cut if I can which is when the grass is often dry enough, but not if its rained much late in the morning.

If the mower tyres aren't going to damage the grass then work out your cutting height and come up one or two notches.

The problem with wet grass is it sticks and is heavier so if you cut a bit higher you'll get more air flow under the deck and be able to lift and bag the heavier grass. You might still need to stop occasionally and unclog the grass cute and deck.

It can also help big time when there is no sun if its really windy. I often slip in a tidy up cut (high) in December on a cold windy day when the grass can be bone dry.

Cut mine this afternoon. In perfect condition for a cut.

As an aside, does anybody powerhose the underside of a petrol push mower? Good practice or not?

my3cents

Camila Breezy Thriftiness wrote: »

Cut mine this afternoon. In perfect condition for a cut.

As an aside, underside of a petrol push mower? Good practice or not?

Never really dried up enough here and then add to that it rained twice nothing much but just enough to keep everything wet. Tractor mower is in for repairs (normally do them myself but local guy can do the job including picking up and dropping the machine back for the same cost I can buy the parts) so was going to spend the day with a push mower (not picking up) cutting the grass.

Still got out with the brush cutter and got 200m of river bank tidied up.

If its cleaning up the underneath of the deck you are on about its always best to clean it after use. It comes off easier and won't be their holding damp and muck against the deck making it rot during storage. Trouble is if you have a lot of grass to cut the last thing you want to do is be cleaning the mower when your shagged out and just finished.

my3cents

fox0512 wrote: »

:pac::pac::pac::pac:

these are handy for a good clean...makes it easy!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/lifter-Lifting-Device-Garden-Tractor/dp/B00OV5JKLK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473520081&sr=8-2&keywords=lawnmower+jack

They are a great idea but I would say use for cleaning only. I can imagine trying to get a stuck blade bolt off applying a lot of torque to the spanner and pulling the hole lot down.

my3cents

Camila Breezy Thriftiness wrote: »

Cut mine this afternoon. In perfect condition for a cut.

As an aside, does anybody powerhouse the underside of a petrol push mower? Good practice or not?

Used to on one job and it was a great way to keep the decks clean (actually was a steam cleaner). Main issues, takes time (setting up washer), makes a mess (great if you have a suitable area) and you need to keep the rest of the mower dry.

But if you are cleaning after cutting then a hose jet will do a good job.

Actually the most useful quick clean we used to do commercially was to give the top of the mower engine and anywhere that collected grass a quick blast with a leaf blower

Occasionally when its handy I put on a pair of goggles and fire the air from my compressor in around the air fan and cooling vanes etc to clean the engine and top of the deck off.

fox0512

my3cents wrote: »

They are a great idea but I would say use for cleaning only. I can imagine trying to get a stuck blade bolt off applying a lot of torque to the spanner and pulling the hole lot down.

I thought that too but they are fairly sturdy....I am it every day so mostly use impact wrench...still I wouldnt get underneath if swinging out of torque wrench!

fryup

this may be a silly question, don't snigger

but is mowing in reverse on a ride on bad practice? should i disengage the blade?

my3cents

fryup wrote: »

this may be a silly question, don't snigger

but is mowing in reverse on a ride on bad practice? should i disengage the blade?

Perfectly OK, but doesn't always pick up as quite as well because you are throwing the cut grass back over the area you are cutting to get it into the bag.